Advanced Gray Solution: Light Golden Chestnut

The Clairol Beautiful Collection Advanced Gray Solution line only has five  hair colors to choose from. This line is only recommended for up to 50% gray.  If you are 100% gray/white, then the Light Golden Chestnut color covers the gray with a flaming coppery orange color which is very noticeable!

The good news is that the gray hair is covered without mixing a separate activator lotion nor developer.

The bad news is that the flaming brazzy color is NOT a good look.

The better news is that a violet conditioner such as the AG Sterling Silver conditioner will tone the flaming color down.  You will need an additional 15 minutes under medium heat upon rinsing out the Gray solution.

Clairol Recommendations for their Semi-permanent hair colors:
1) Heat is NOT recommended immediately following a relaxer.  (This tip is for all their "squeeze" bottle semi-permanent hair colors.)

2) Heat is not recommended for use with the Advanced Gray solution.

My tip:
From my own experience for those with more than 50% gray or resistant gray hair, the Advanced Gray solution can go under medium heat for 20 minutes to get coverage.   (NO heat on the same day of a relaxer)

But you need to plan for the extra 15 minutes of conditioning with the violet conditioner to tone the Light Golden Chestnut down.  You do have to rinse the processed color out first before applying the violet conditioner for toning purposes.

I have mentioned in other articles in this blog that some of the darker Advanced Gray Solution hair color can leave a "greenish - ash" color in highlighted ends.  Please see separate articles on this blog to learn more on that topic.

The Advanced Gray Solution is not a good fit for everyone all the time.  You just need to know when to use it especially when the customer does not want a demi-permanent nor permanent hair color.

Braided Extra Long Side Ponytail by Benita Blocker

Hairstyling by Benita Blocker, 2014.

 First of all, I just learned that the 100% Kanekalon fiber can be flat ironed on low heat!  So anyone getting tree braids or crochet braids should try to get the Kanekalon hair versus the Toyokalon.  There are youtube videos for flat ironing crochet braids.

Now for this braided Extra Long Side Ponytail, I used the same technique as the braided wraparound hairstyle except I used different hair packs.

I used a half pack of the 100% Kanekalon Bijoux Xpression Jumbo Braid on one side. (left side)

Then I used the 27" Pony yaki hair which was 100% Toyokalon on the other side. (right side)

I did not need 80+ inch hair on both sides of the head with it being only a side braid hairstyle.  So I was able to blend the shorter braid into the extra long braid and keep it looking natural. This is a great protective style for relaxed hair. I blow dried the hair then started the Goddess braiding.

There is Loc Value in your Loc Chop!

Photo credit:  www.videolocktician.com

I recently ran into a lady that had a cute Sisterlocks bob.  She shared with me that she had just had about 12 inches of length cut.  I asked her "what did she do with her Sisterlocks chopped off hair?"  She said that she threw them in the trash.  My mouth dropped.  I told her that people would pay for those locs!

Women are buying all of that Indian and Brazilian hair shaved off someone else's head.  Why wouldn't they pay for your Sisterlocks that you cut off?  Most people want instant gratification.  Those Sisterlocks that she cut off could be someone else's loc extensions.

I also met another male who had his own father's locs that were sew-in onto his locs as loc extensions.  Can you imagine passing your locs on to your next generation?

If anyone know of anyone with over 15 years of loc length who is thinking about a big "Loc Chop," then please tell them to get in touch with me.  I am interested in keeping an inventory of  "real" locs for extension purposes.  I am willing to pay for them based on their color and condition.

Product Review: Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie

The Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie is a creamy moisturizer that is loved by many, but I have not figured out what type of hair it works best with. Less seems best when using this product.  It can be oily and sticky if overused.

So far, I am NOT a fan.  It smells good, but I will have to keep everyone posted when I find a client that it does something amazing for.  Anyone else with success with this product and how you use it?

Braided WrapAround Hairstyling by Benita Blocker

 Goddess braid wraparound hairstyling by Benita Blocker, 2014

This braided wrap around look can be achieved with natural hair or with relaxed hair.  Depending on the length of your "Expression" jumbo braid, you may have two to three revolutions around the head.

To achieve this look with relaxed hair, then the Janet Expression 3x Braid which is 86 inches long was used.  Because it is Toyakalon, it has a silkier look to blend in with relaxed hair.  Because the 86 inch braid is so long, the whole pack was required for this style.

Last week, I wrote an article about the Bijoux Expression braid which was around 80 inches long and more hair seemed to be in the pack.  Only a half pack was needed to achieve a similar 2 revolutions look on natural hair using the Bijoux brand of Expression Jumbo braid.  The Bijoux braid was Kanekalon fiber which is less silky in texture.

There are not many women of color with this look online so I may do a youtube mini-tutorial on the hairstyle; however, please do not commit me to it!

Keeping the extra long jumbo braid detangled is the trick to this style.  I charge around $55 for this hairstyle with full shampoo and blow-dry. Optional straightening is an additional charge. This hairstyling is considered protective styling.

Design Essentials Almond and Avocado Detangling Leave-In Conditioner

The Design Essentials Almond and Avocado Detangling Leave-In Conditioner smells good, and it is easy to apply to all hair types for wash and go hairstyling.

For a quick wash and go styling procedure, as soon as you finish your final water rinse, allow the client to remain reclined at the shampoo bowl and just generously apply this Detangling Leave-in Conditioner while the hair is soaking wet.  Massage it in and then let the client sit up. You will find that most of your work is all done.  Just check throughout the hair to see if there are any small areas that need more product applied.  Then you are free to allow the hair to air-dry.

This leave-in Conditioner is a lightweight lotion that delivers shine and movement for those with some length.  This product slows shrinkage, but it does not prevent resistant hair from curling up on the ends.

The Design Essentials Almond and Avocado Detangling Leave-in Conditioner is a favorite for children as well as the adults!

When is it Time to Cut Two Inches Off?

 This roller set client has been with me for almost three years.  We do NOT trim on a regular a basis because we rarely use hot irons.

But at a closer look, she had about two or three inches of hair that was inhibiting maximum styling ease.  A haircut can deliver more fullness and volume and body.

My client gets relaxer touch-ups around every eight weeks.  We use the VitalePro High Comfort Relaxer.  We do NOT trim at every relaxer, and it still grows.  As long as wet sets such as lacer sets, bantu knot sets, and roller sets are used in lieu of thermal/hot irons, haircuts are not needed as often.

If you like fresh, sassy styling then regular trims are necessary. I hope this article helps those worried about the frequency of trims and haircuts.

Two Years one month Loc Length Check-in

 For those focus on loc length, this photo shoot is with my hair wet.  As it dries, my hair swells and becomes shorter but more volumious.

 The side with the larger locs pictured here.

 I like covering my forehead, but I can not see to service my clients.  So I usually pull it back.

 My wet hair was ruining my cosmetic makeup application. I still have my one lone bottom corner loc taking the lead in length.

I'm below shoulder length in the back even with my head upright.

I am still self- tightening.  So far, I am still learning about my locs i.e. my hair. I am still trying to decide when to condition and when not to condition.  I am still trying to decide on styling and a regimen as it gets longer. I will keep everyone posted when I get it all together.  LOL! 

Breaking News: Update on Avlon's Texture Release System

With a client in my chair for the Texture Release System service, I discovered the Releasing Lotion was NO LONGER a creamy consistency.  It was a runny liquid!  I had not exposed it to heat nor elements.  I was dumbfound.  I told the client that something was wrong.  Luckily,

• The client appointment was happening early enough in the afternoon that  it was still Avlon Industries business hours.
• A live person answered Avlon Industries telephone so I could explain that this was an emergency with a client in my chair regarding their Texture Release System.
• Avlon Industries was able to get the Director of Education on the phone to speak to me.
• Avlon Industries was already aware of this "bump" in the road.

So in the future, the Texture Release Lotion will be in a spray bottle because the solution went back to its original form.  I was instructed to pour the liquid from my lotion bottle into a spray bottle as seen in the picture above.  Everything else was the same.

The application of this runny liquid was messy, and I had to apply to client with her head reclined at the shampoo bowl because there is no way to control the application area.

The good news is that the results still worked!

The system is heat activated so I blow dried and used a small curling iron to straighten the hairline as well as run the hot curling iron carefully along the shorter hair to smooth out the texture.  Then I re-wet one side in the picture above to show you the straightness.  This client has relaxed ends, and we were trying to push out her relaxer frequency by performing the Texture Release procedure.  She is a roller set client, and I performed the Texture release around her perimeter hairline in front, nape, and sides only.

Based on feedback from a different Texture Release client, the system made her non-relaxed hair more manageable and tangle-free, but it did not control her swelling of her hair. So I decided only to test the system on the perimeter hairline for this client to see how it works for her.  If it works for her, then we will perform the Texture Release System through her entire head of hair.  So I will have to update everyone again in a few more months.

10th Salon Anniversary Secrets

The local Citizens newspaper announces Applebaum Hair Salon 10th Anniversary!  

The salon has stood the test of time not because of perfection, but because of focus on progression!

Finances

The salon owner should be able to cover all the salon expenses even if every hairstylist decides to quit.  Additional staff should be a bonus not a setback.  It can be a trial and error process in selecting "human resources" for any company.

Hair Shows

I have attended International hair shows in Long Beach, California;  Orlando, Florida as well as Atlanta, Georgia.  If any hairstylist feels that they can not afford to attend a hair show or even a local product knowledge class, then they need to skip paying a bill and attend especially if they see more than a few classes or speakers that you want to hear a word from.  The knowledge that you learn will deliver a huge return on investment and get your clients buzzing about you!

I assure you if you are in a downturn, it is not going to get better doing the same old things.  Fresh new products, fresh  new techniques, and networking to achieve fresh new ideas are important for growth.  If other staff hairstylists are not bringing new flavor to the salon, then you have to go out and find some more flavor!

Products

I only use 10% of the products that were introduced to me in cosmetology school.  So cosmetology students should know that there are a lot more product options out there!

50% of the products that I use now were not even developed ten years ago.

90% of my products have been improved within the last five years.

So the right products used at the right time can make a exponential impact on your salon business in a positive way. The wrong choices can impact your salon in a negative way.  Sometimes people are respectful and know that you are not perfect, but in this "dog eat dog" world, expect the worst and hope for the best.  Faith in a Higher Power keeps you going.

Education

I have a Bachelor's degree and an extensive work history in Corporate America.  This formal education assists me in my professional communication skills.  Smooth talk and "bedside manners" will get you plenty of opportunity, but meeting your customer needs keeps you in business.  

Finding your Niche

Every celebrity hairstylist is not a good fit for everyone that sits in their chair.  The same principle applies to your local hairstylists, successful hairstylists have their niche.  For some, it's short and sassy hair.  For others, it's hair illusion.  For someone else, it's silky straight.  Yet, another hairstylist can specialize in just teaching fellow hairstylists.  You do not have to restrict yourself to being behind the chair.

Another niche can also be a system based salon for production.  One salon owner that I met only offers roller sets, haircolor, and relaxers.  Any other requests then you have to go somewhere else.  Of course, with the natural hair trend still going strong, I am not sure if she is still practicing hair or not.  But the point is that hairstylists have to find a signature and focus on it.  It is okay to transition into another signature as trends change.  We all have to adapt always.

Social Media

You have to get involved in some social media to stay in the game.  Instagram and Facebook are two basics.

My hair blog is over five years old and has over 500,000 pageviews, but I love to write.  If writing is not your strength, then do not start the blog.  I am not a graphic designer so my blog is plain, but it works well enough.  If I can get someone who wants to help enhance it along my journey, then that is great too!

Social media keeps your business buzzing even if you are on vacation!  It is a must in this modern day society!  

Cheers to another ten years!

10th Anniversary of Applebaum Hair Salon - Lake Norman, North Carolina!

Design Essentials have Three Edge Gels!

2 hours later and my edges are still under control . . . Which edge gel did I use?

Design Essentials has these three edge gels:

1. Sleek Edge Control
2. Sleek Maximum Strength
3. Natural Edge Tamer

The Sleek Edge Control and Edge Control Max are in the Design Essentials purple and white line. The Natural Edge Tamer is in the Green and Gray "Naturals" line.

 Well, my new love is the Design Essentials Natural Honey and Shea Edge Tamer!  It tamed my edges the longest that any edge gel has.  It is clearly the leader so far.

As you all know, other edge gels would not hold my roots past an hour.  This Design Essentials Natural Edge Tamer is definitely superior for hold on my type 4c resistant hair.

It is very clear and has glycerin and honey in it.

Honestly, I don't think Design Essentials need three edge gels.  Why? If anyone is trying to tame their edges then it is probably because their relaxer touch-up time is approaching. The extra texture that they are seeing is "natural new growth" so in my opinion, everyone who wants smooth edges can just use the the edge gel in the Design Essentials Natural category.

I have not tried the Sleek Edge Control nor its Maximum Strength, and I do not plan to offer it in my salon unless someone gives me a good reason why.  

On a separate note, the edge tamer gel can look a little "cakey" when other products are on the hair.  It may be a deal breaker for some and not a huge deal for others.

Product Review: Straight Request Power K77 Cleansing Conditioner

Straight Request Power K77 Cleansing Conditioner initially reminded me of the Wen's product that you see in the infomercials.  Not necessarily by smell nor product consistency, but by it's description sounding more like a "co-wash."  I consider co-washing to mean skipping over the shampoo process and washing hair with a conditioner.

Of course, all hair types can get a build up and eventually needs a deep cleansing shampoo at least once every 7 co-washes. Notice that I did not mention a timeframe because some people co-wash everyday and some people co-wash a couple of times a week.

 I initially was not fond of the Power K77 Cleansing Conditioner because it did not clean the hair as much as I would like it to, and I have higher quality shampoos that condition without the weight. However, I felt that there had to be a good use for this cleansing conditioner, then Viola- I discovered the best use for it as for as my beauty practice goes.

In the picture above, you see various semi-permanent haircolors.  You do not mix anything with these colors. They are direct dyes or stains that you apply straight from the bottle.  Typically, you rinse these semi-permanent haircolors out after 30 minutes under heat and either condition or use leave-in conditioners. Shampooing usually starts stripping the direct dye back out, but often times, without a shampoo, the excess dye changes the color of the rinse water and is a bit messy.

So the Power K77 Cleansing  Conditioner cleanses the excess direct dye out of the hair and conditions at the same time. A perfect compromise.

Another added benefit of the Straight Request Power k77 cleansing conditioner is for glued weft/tracks removal.  As described in the directions pictured above,  work the Power k77 through the tracks and wait a few minutes for the tracks to loosen up to be removed.  The liquid consistency of the Power K77 should make application to glued hair extensions easier than a regular creamy conditioner.

Just as with all products for bonding glue removal, some hair types, removal is easier than others.

Overall, the Power K77 Cleansing Conditioner is a keeper for use with Semi-permanent haircolors!

Back to School Hair Quiz for 2014

Questions:
1) Is it okay to get your relaxer touch-up if you are having your menstrual cycle or period?
2) Should you only get your ends trimmed around relaxer touch-up time?
3)  How can you tell if a permanent haircolor is going to turn out the right color?
4) Should a salon stick with only one product line?
5) How can you save money on your next braiding service?
6) Which hair blog just reached over 500,000 pageviews? (Hint:  This question is the easy one! )

Answers:
1) NO!  Don't do it! If your menstrual cycle is on, then your body's pH and hormones may cause your hair to be more resistant.  You may risk underprocessing the hair if the relaxer does not work properly. Days 1 through 3 of your menstrual cycle - definitely, skip the chemical processing. If you are on the tail end of your cycle, then it should not hinder the relaxer from properly processing.

2) If you have type 3 curl pattern or non-resistant hair, then you can trim whenever you want because you do not have to worry about a lot of shrinkage.  If your hair has 75% shrinkage and/or it is resistant, then you need to wait for the relaxer touch-up to cut when all of your hair is straight.

There are some people who get haircuts based on the moon and the Farmer's Almanac.  You will have do your own research on that cultural practice.

3) Use a popsicle stick from the craft store to stir up the color.  Watch it develop on the popsicle stick to get a ballpark idea of the final color. Permanent haircolor should not have any darkness when initially coming from out of the tube or canister.  It should only darken after mixed and has been sitting for some minutes.

4)  The last Design Essentials platform artist suggested one product line for the whole salon.  However, she also mentioned that she cocktailed some of the products together to create solutions as needed.  I do not agree with this practice.  Why assume that all hairstylists are great chemists?  If another product line has a superior conditioner or a superior styling aid, then I want the best for my clients. Most product lines have just ONE product that is their "best seller."  I like knowing the "best seller" items for every product line.  I also like having a backup plan in case a manufacturer is on back order for a product.  Many of the Black haircare companies have had a shortage on product availability for too long, and we as hairstylist are forced to find an alternative product that works.  Sometimes I return back to the original product  and sometimes I find that I want to stick with the new replacement product from a different line.

5) Try Redheart yarn!  It burns like the jumbo braid hair.  You can use it for yarn braids, havana twists, and kinky twists.  There are some youtube videos for using the Redheart yarn for twists. Typically, you need several strands of yarn at a time for thickness, but the skeins cost between $2.00 and $5.00 USD.  If you buy 7 packs of jumbo braids, then you will spend over $20.00 USD.  However, one large skein of yarn at $5.00 USD may be all your braider needs. So you save OVER $15.00 by using yarn.

 You can also put rods around this yarn and dip into hot water for curls just like the regular braiding hair.

The yarn maintains its original yarn color.  When it is heated, it does temporarily change colors, but as it cools down, the original yarn color re-appears. Walmart stores sell Redheart brand of yarn.

6) Yes, this blog www.phenomenalhair.blogspot.com just reached over 500,000 pageviews.  The blog is five years old, and I am so proud of our progress! Thank you for helping to make this milestone possible.

Hopefully, you passed this quiz! You needed to get at least 4 answers out of 6 correct! Still have questions? Then please let me know!

Braid Review: Bijoux Xpression Collection

 This extra long jumbo braid was perfect for those with natural hair who want a "goddess" wrap-around look!  I had to blow-dry the natural hair client first then integrate the X-pression braid into two big cornrows ending in the back of the head.  I had to braid the remaining 100% Kanekalon fiber and wrap the decorative braid around the entire head.  The left braid wrapped counterclockwise, and the right side braid was wrapped around the perimeter of the head in a clockwise direction. So the final look of the finished style had three cornrows stacked.  I did not take a picture, but I will take a final photo with the next client that I give the hairstyle or I will reproduce on a mannequin.  The look is similar to the picture below.

Photo credit:  www.hairstylestars.com

The X-pression Collection braid is Brushable, Tangle-Free and 100% Kanekalon.  Since it is extra long in length and I am not a professional braider, it was easy to tangle this braid if you are not used to manipulating the jumbo braid.  I was able to brush and comb through it for a nice look. The price is about $4.99 USD at the local beauty supply store.

Poem: The Power of Hair

The Power of Hair

defined when it is no longer there.

Gender specific? Certainly not.

Hair Loss is often an afterthought.

Whether genetically or chemically introduced,

A frightening thought does Hair Loss produce.

The Power of Hair 

has made men melt.

An erotic sensation when he has felt

The softness of luscious long tresses

camouflaging all of life's stresses.


The Power of Hair

was Soloman's strength,

Rapunzel's ladder,

A woman's glory

while Every inch tells a story.

The Power of Hair.

Poem by Benita Blocker 

 Copyright: 2014

Braidless Sew-in Using Aluminum with Silicone Links

 "Microlinks" have been around for a decade or longer, but now, the metal beads have an optional silicone insert.  Sally's Beauty Supply only had the Fusion Aluminum links with Silicone in the Black color. The Fusion Links without the Silicone came in Brown and Blonde colors as well.

 Using the metal "microlinks" for braidless sew-in purposes allows the scalp to breathe and the wefts can lay flat.  More air to the scalp promotes growth.  Flatter wefts is easier for styling purposes.

This is a mannequin head that I am demonstrating the sew-in with the metal beads. I do suggest practicing this technique on a mannequin head about three times to get the hang of tracking and removing the beads without destroying the hair.  It looks easier than actually doing it.

You can see the silicone within the bead in the picture above.  Why is the silicone important?  Metal and chemicals together can cause damage.  So by introducing the silicone, the hair is not in direct contact with the metal bead. The silicone insert becomes a barrier.

Therefore, relaxing and coloring the hair with the metal beads in the hair is now a possibility.  At least relaxing the hairline away from the metal beads is possible without worrying about relaxer residue reacting to the metals and damaging the hair.

Also, the silicone helps to prevent slippage of the beads from off the hair.

But here is my warning to you:
1) When sliding the hair through the beads, make sure that the silicone insert stays in place before clamping the bead down.  The silicone insert can slip out, and it needs to simply be pushed back in place.

2)When opening the bead up to remove it, please take your time.  If you accidentally warp the bead, then it will not open properly, and it could trap some hair in a fine corner of the bead.  Trapped hair in such a small bead can be a nightmare.  Try warping the bead on a mannequin  head and then try to remove it.  You will get the full understanding of the dilemma that I do not want you to be faced with.

So there are some youtube video tutorials that omit some crucial steps for braidless sew-ins.  If you have taken enough extension classes, then you will figure out how to improvise.

A HairStylist Showcase: Finding your Niche

I saw this print ad in my local newspaper, and I realized that this hairstylist's showcase does not represent the type of hairstyling that I do.  We all have to find our niche.

Some hairstylists are rocking the big mohawk updo using the jumbo braids.  Whoever came up with this styling trend really started a revolution.

Well, this is not my niche market either.

I cater to a more private, professional clientele that blend seamlessly within the corporate White America.  There is nothing wrong with other niche markets, but it takes time and focus to build your clientele and to define your niche market.  My salon is celebrating ten years this month, August 2014.  I am excited about the next ten years!

Disturbing Dialogue Directed toward Women

This "mockery" of black hair was supposed to be humorous when it was posted on Facebook during the time of Maya Angelou's death.  I was very annoyed because clearly these tears and facial expression came from a deeper place than missing a hair appointment.

So I posted my opinion that this picture was insensitive to Black women.  Here was one stranger's followup post:

The post was a slight at humor and you turned it into a lie beyond your control . Dr. Maya Angelou never   put horsehair in her hair as long as I could remember she wore her hair in a neat natural so for you to speak   for someone you don't even know you do need to grow up it was just meant to be funny not what you tried   to turn it into.    

My response: The post was not humorous. As a hair professional, my word goes farther than yours.   Phenomenal Women have un-neat hair. So you need to get a clue.    

His response: OK I won't be nasty I see that you are friends with some people that I love very much but   you really did overreact.  

My response: lol - you are now policing me.  Lol - now that is humorous     

His response: No it's not funny not at all. But I will treat you with respect because of our mutual friends  

*End of dialogue*


The reality:  This Black man was willing to be nasty and disrespectful to me if we did not happen to have some mutual Facebook friends?

Domestic Violence is on the rise.  When Black men have this kind of mentality, then you clearly can see how our young women must be taught self-esteem.  It has nothing to do with shaking your "money maker" or dancing like the next video vixen.

This man described "weave" as horsehair.  He implied that the girl in the picture did not have neat hair.  With some of the "just got out of bed and did not comb my hair- AFROs" that I have seen walking around in public, this girl's hair is neat enough.  It is not a fresh hairdo but it has a neatness about it.

The irony is that this stranger's last name was "Christian."   You got to laugh at that!

Lots of Locs Compliments

 So it's been two years, and my locs are attracting more compliments than ever!  Am I tightening them more? NO.  I am actually tightening them less.

The extra afro puff at my roots give me more lift and more body. My length is working for me by giving me weight and movement.  I am in sync!  It is all about illusion.  Thinner density- no problem! Just work with what you got!

Pureology is Partnering with the Hairstylist

Notice the term "New Formula" in the top corner? It seems that someone is listening to me. LOL!  Thank you Pureology for flagging your products when you change something.  Hairstylists really appreciate this gesture, and we hope that other manufacturers will follow in your footsteps if they alter their products.  Partnering with hairstylist to keep us updated on changes and to keep fresh product on the shelves is important!

Bath and Body Works Has Hair Mist!

I found something interesting when I went into the Bath and Body Works store.  It was a Hair Mist infused with Argan Oil and only comes in this one scent: Endless Weekend. I like the smell of it. Perfect for loc wearers and everyone who welcomes a little hydration plus fragrance to their hair.

I think that it is limited edition. It retails for $12.50 USD.  If you have a coupon, it is considered a part of their "Signature Collection."