Certain Hair Types can Break Easy

I remember hearing a hairstylist say that some hair just doesn't grow.  After nine years of hairstyling, I can definitely say "This statement is NOT true;" however,  I do believe that some hair types have a hard time gaining length.  Remember "gaining length" and "growing" are two different things.

Everyone can see hair growth from the root/scalp area, but if the ends are continuously breaking and are being continuously trimmed,  then no, you will not see any significant gains in length.

After completing a consultation with a local loctician, she explained to me that she recommends the hair steamer to condition traditional locks, but not interlocks/sisterlocks.  She felt the hair steamer would interfere with the interlocks/sisterlocks from locking properly by loosening them up. She did mention that traditional locks can break at the ends if they do not stay hydrated.  I was amazed that withOUT any chemical in the hair, some hair textures will just naturally dry out and break.  Wow!

I also remember my first Sisterlocks consultant mentioning that she had two daughters.  Both went natural, but only one decided to get Sisterlocks.  She noticed that the daughter with the natural free flowing hair did NOT gain length as quickly as the daughter with Sisterlocks.

In addition, I have an associate of mine that has worn her hair free flowing and natural for three years, and I have not seen any real change in hair length over the years.  I mentioned to her that straightening her hair in order to trim it is probably damaging it.  She did discontinue the full straightening process, and it looks healthier and has gain some more length, but overall, no mind-blowing gains in length at all.

Apparently, the interlocking/sisterlocking provides "strength in numbers" by the hairs supporting each other.  This is another reason why I decided not to transition into traditional locks.  I also decided to focus on making sure my hair get some sort of moisture misting for routine maintenance.

It is just so amazing that without any relaxer nor haircolor, my highly textured hair can be prone to break according to the loctician.  Luckily, it is still growing and gaining length.  I am due for my next retightening soon with my third consultant. We have hashed out our expectations; so I anticipate that she is going to be a good fit.  I will update everyone soon!

Type 3 and Type 4 Side by Side Comparison

These hair samples both came from African American women.  In Sisterlocks world, the type 4 curl pattern is called "short" because of the diameter of the curl.  The type 3 curl pattern is considered a "long" curl pattern because of its diameter.  Can you guess which curl pattern is easier to lock and coil?

The answer:  Type 4 or short curl pattern.

The Type 3 curl pattern is much harder to lock.  Actually, wash and go is the easiest maintenance for this type of natural hair.  This curl pattern cost less to maintain and is accepted in more "social circles" in its natural state.

Those with a Type 4 curl pattern typically would be more dependent on relaxers to achieve a sleeker, straighter look.  Also, texurizing a type 4 curl pattern will NOT deliver a Type 3 curl pattern.

Product Review: Design Essentials Curl Cleanser and more

I apologize that my lighting was not better for this product picture, but nonetheless, the curl cleanser was great at cleansing without dehydrating my curls. I still prefer the KeraCare Cleansing Cream, but the Design Essentials Curl Cleanser will be my "go to" for deep cleansing after a week long stretch of leave-in conditioners. Overall, I like it!

As for the curl stretching cream, it is a little heavy. Extremely porous hair is going to soak it up like a sponge. I discovered this with a client who had permanently colored her Type 4b/c hair. We blowdried the hair according to the Design Essentials natural styling guide, then we used the Design Essentials Curl Stretching Cream to make individual twists. Her hair absorbed soooo much product that it was very hard to get it dry. Two hours under the dryer would probably be generous. The oil that her hair soaked up was enough for a solid week without worrying about drying out.

I have noticed quite a few products seem to soak into Type 4 hair and create a wet sponge effect if the Type 4 hair is damaged or extremely porous.

Honestly, when Type 4 hair becomes that damaged, plan to gradually cut it off. I will be very difficult to manage and easy to frizz. Repeated excessive thermal/heat can cause damage, and sometimes permanent color can cause this damage as well.

So be careful . . . when hair is "overcooked" - you eventually have to start over.

Tracking: Keeping Hair Styling Records

First of all, these are my real fingernails! The Viviscal pills have multiple benefits! LOL! Please see my separate article on Viviscal.

Pictured is the start of my hair log from October 19, 1998 to present day. I literally know about 13 years of history on my hair. I started tracking in October 1998 after having so many horrible hair salon experiences. I have been to Manhattan New York to Brooklyn, NY to White Plains, NY to North Carolina to South Carolina and still could not find a good fit for a hairdresser. Does this story sound familiar?

So keep track of stylist name, date of service, actual services provided, and any chemicals used. The only purpose it will serve is a sanity check and some tracking of changes you find.

Please understand that I do not recommend salon hopping. You lose liability of who did what. All hairstylists have the same licensing respective to the state that the license was issued. Hairstylists are like doctors. Their practice is their practice. Doctors sometimes have different approaches to helping to heal. Within three months or about six visits, your hair should be more solid even if you are trimming bad ends off regularly.

Professional hairstylists learn to respect another hairstylist's practice because the variables surrounding a hair service are only witnessed during the time of service. Over the years, I have learned to turn down clients and send them back to their stylist because expecting perfection in one visit sometimes is a tall order especially when it comes to chemicals.

If a hairstylist is more concerned with the health of the hair, they may require a treatment service before performing a multi-dimensional color service. Yes, it will cost you two visits to get the color service and then you still may need a third service to lift your haircolor to an additional dimension. So if you have dark hair and want to go blonde, one visit usually is not the healthiest way of doing it.

When it comes to relaxers, it may take a few tries to find a good fit unless you are relocating from another city and want to continue with your same regimen and same product brands that were working for you from whence you came.

Also, I have found that over the last few years, I look for hairstylists with my same hair type (Type 4). To my surprise, I have found that most hairdressers have type 3 hair so their hair is lower maintenance than mine. I usually rule out male hairdressers because they usually keep a low maintenance haircut.

These are my preferences based on my experiences. Many have given up on hairdressers . . . I am a hairstylist, and I have sometimes felt the same sentiment. However, I am determined to educate myself and share my findings so that others do not have to repeat the same mistakes. I am committed to the advancement of the hair industry globally.

I have to remind myself regularly that "the only thing constant" is change. Stay flexible but grounded . . .

Four hair types revisited!

Oprah's hairstylist Andre Walker described the four hair types in his 1997 book . . .

Type 1 - straight hair
Type 2 - wavy hair
Type 3 - Curly hair
Type 4 - Overcurly to kinky hair

Type 3 and Type 4 can have smaller categories based on the diameter of your curl pattern.

If you are unsure of whether or not you are type 3 or type 4, then your frequency of your relaxer touchup can help. If you are relaxing every three to five months then you are probably Type 3. If you can barely make it to 8 weeks before you are past due for your relaxer touchup, then you are probably Type 4.