Natural Hair Curl Comparison the 3D version

I have had a lot of natural hair questions lately.  I hope that this video helps.  If you are not sure of your curl pattern, then stretch your relaxer touch-up out for three months.  Flat Twist styling or other curly looks will blend in the textures. I do discuss curl reformation in this video as well.

Resistant hair: No Match for Relaxers plus Length

 So everyone is familiar with the different hair types being Type 1 through Type 4 with subcategories of a, b, and c.  Now, let's take the discussion one step farther . . .  Resistant versus Non-resistant.  Someone with a Type 4c curl pattern may have a finer and less resistant behavior than another individual with a Type 4c curl pattern who has a coarser, more resistant behavior.  So both people can have similar curl patterns, but the texture of the strands may dictate its resistance behavior and shrinkage behavior.

 This miniature "slinky" represents a "resistant" hair type.  When elongated, it naturally wants to spring back into its original condensed form.  This "resistant" hair behavior is excellent for locking because it likes to coil around everything in its path.  Extensions, braids, etc.   However, to straighten or relax this type of resistant hair, the relaxer has to work very hard to soften the bonds to rearrange them not to behave in its natural behavior.  Sometimes a mild strength relaxer is not strong enough to straighten a resistant hair type, but the toxic dangers to the scalp remain the same.  Alopecia and thickening of the scalp can results from prolonged relaxer exposure in an attempt to straighten resistant hair.

To test your resistance of your natural hair, just pull a strand of elongated hair from your head or comb and  drop it in a clear cup of water.  If there is no product or oils on it, then you should be able to see the hair strand do one of two things.   1) Either it will very slowly start to coil and shrink within a few minutes or 2) it will quickly coil and shrink at the "speed of light" like in two seconds.

If it is "speedy" then the hair is resistant.  If it is "slow" to coil, then it is non-resistant.  Non-resistant hair can grow long with the use of mild relaxers, but it may be harder to lock because of potential unravelling.

Now, resistant, coarse hair, is very difficult to grow long using relaxers.  Locks will grow it long, but relaxer and other straightening services will become a battle between style and health.  If a person with resistant hair can manage to style their hair for 8 to 10 weeks at a time in between relaxer touch-ups, then long length is possible.  However, most women with resistant, coarse hair can not get past their hairline becoming kinky within the five weeks period.

Decisions, Decisions.  Food for thought for those sitting on the fence about what to do next with your hair.

First Lady Michelle Obama: Six months later!

So it's almost six months ago that I posted an article discussing First Lady Michelle Obama's hair! I must say that she must have read that article because her hair looks like she is back on track!!!! Yay!

Pictured are the covers of Parenting magazine (August 2012) and Ladies' Home Journal (September 2012). Neither magazine give any "hair credits." However, it looks like based on the August cover; she received a nice, fresh haircut by the September cover.

After studying curl patterns (please see a separate article on this blog about curl pattern review), I have concluded that First Lady Michelle Obama has a type 4a or type 4b curl pattern. She is definitely NOT a type 4c.

As you know the Democratic National Convention is being hosted by Charlotte, NC during September 3rd - 7th. I have some hope that she will grace me with her presence while she is in vicinity of Applebaum Hair headquarters. Smile. If she does make it, I will let you all know!

Observation: 20 minutes True Indulgence relaxer time

Curl pattern: Type 4b Wouldn't you say?

Same hair sample after 20 minutes using the Regular Strength True Indulgence relaxer at a room temperature of about 73 degrees and full neutralizing process. Pictured is the end result.

Pictured is the hair sample with relaxer still on it and right before the rinse. As I was smoothing out the hair, some strands came loose from the rubber band binding that I placed on top. The hair was donated from a friend of mine. I did an article on the blog some months back about "Black women cutting their hair."

I believe that I achieved about 85% straightness.

A Mother's Choice: To Relax or To Lock?

Age 4 - started locks; Age 8 - "locks for life!" I wanted to share one mother's decision for her beloved daughter: (Pictures provided by Arynn's mother.)

I decided to lock Arynn's hair 4 years ago after prayer, careful consideration and much research. Arynn was born with a lot of tight curly hair that is extremely dense and thick. In addition to this, she was very tender-headed. I remember literally having to put Arynn in a headlock to do even simple styles and hope no one would call DSS from her crying at the top of her lungs. With so many strikes against me, I knew I was going to have to make a decision. 3 years prior to locking Arynn's hair I had decided to get sisterlocks and was loving them for many reasons. At the time, I only knew of one other child who had sisterlocks and hers were put in by her mother who was a sisterlock technician at the time. I tried blowing her hair out and even that was a task. I even straightened with the comb a couple of times but did not like the smell of dead, burned hair. Because of the long term and sometimes short term damage that results from perms, I knew that chemicals would not be an option from the beginning. I got lots of negative feedback from adults of both permed and natural hair (surprisingly) that Arynn was too young for sisterlocks, that it should be her decision, what if she wants to cut them out later, etc. I even when to napturality.com for insight. I had to do a heart check and take into consideration our family lifestyle, my husband's thoughts (he was on board from the very beginning), time management and hair management for myself and my daughter. Finally after talking at length with my consultant who agreed to actually lock Arynn's hair (other consultants did not want to even think about doing a 4 year old's hair due to the length of time, attention span, etc.) I knew sisterlocks were the way to go for us. 29 1/2 hours over 4 days later, Arynn had a beautiful head of sister locks. There have been no regrets and I still believe this was the best decision I could have made. Arynn loves her hair and can be found sashaying and swinging her hair in the mirror often. She loves the touch, look and length of her hair. Literally boys, girls, men and women of all colors have complimented her on her hair. It is literally a conversation piece and friends love playing in it.

The biggest negative we have experienced is that after going to an open house of a renown Christian private school, I was told that Arynn would not be able to attend the school with sisterlocks. When asked if that was discrimination, I was told "no" because they could pretty much make their own rules as a private school. This was prior to me deciding that I would home school her so peer pressure is non-existent in our world relative to the school side.

Hair is hair and it needs to be maintained regardless of natural or permed; so yes she has to be tightened and it does require a lot of time because she has sooooo many locks. I know other little girls with sister locks who are tightened in 3-4 hours (average time) every 4-6 weeks. In the beginning much care has to be taken with washing and banding of the hair so that the locks do not come out but after the "settle in" phase (which can take 4-6 months on the average) it's history! That is where sisterlock consultants come in. They are well trained and during your initial consultation everything from product to maintenance is covered. Sisterlocks have their own product line and special instructions, so the process is simple if followed closely. You want someone who is thorough and will answer all of your questions with patience because this is not a fad, its a lifestyle. I respect sisterlock consultants who have gone through the proper training and credentialing because truly it is an art. (Sisterlocks.com has an official SisterLock consultant registry.) Rosa Crawford (out of the Charlotte, NC area) is our Sisterlock consultant and can be found on the official website.

I believe that the trend toward natural hair has made locs of all types acceptable by people of all different cultures and races. Sisterlocks are seen on women in tv, commercials and corporately. Its healthy, beautiful and worth all the money that is invested into it. I would do it again and again. When I asked Arynn what she likes most about her locks, she simply smiles and says "everything mommy."

End of story . . . Benita, here again! I am so thankful that this mother shared her story with us! It brought back memories. I am tenderheaded to this day, and my hair was just ridiculous for my mother to manage. I wish SisterLocks was around thirty years ago, and that my mom would have gotten me started.

It is important to remember that a relaxer is permanent and has to be cut off to start over. Locks are permanent for the most part and have to be cut off to start over. So it is six one way and a half a dozen another way. Moms should not be afraid of sisterlocks for their daughter's hair. I personally want sisterlocks even smaller than the ones that Arynn has pictured above. I want micro Sisterlocks. I may have to travel to DC to get them! I will keep you posted. Until then . . . "Lock on!"

Would a Black Woman Cut off 5 inches of her own hair?

Shocking news: A cosmetologist friend of mine who is not working in the beauty industry at this time grew her Type 4 hair out for the last three years only to cut fives inches off of it and relax it. She seemed quite excited, but I was in shock! She said that it was becoming a lot of work doing it herself. I was still in shock. I had never met a Black woman to cut off that much natural, non-damaged hair just because she was tired of working with it. Even Halle Berry grew her hair long and cut it gradually back into a short cut. Well, Halle Berry does not have Type 4 curl pattern anyway. She is like a Type 2 or a Type 3 curl pattern.

So I could not believe that she cut a huge chunk of length off of her hair. She said that she grew out the length to wear huge afro puffs and other natural styling options. However, for relaxed hair, she preferred a shorter look. So she cut off about 3 inches in a shrinkage state. I stretched some of the 3 inch hair out to about 5 inches. That is 10 months of hair growth that she cut off. I told her that she was the first Black woman that I have met that did not mind having five inches of hair cut off.

I wonder if "Locks of Love" would accept "Type 4" hair? I believe that they need a "6 to 8 inch ponytail" which this bundle of hair that she donated to me would not qualify in length. However, I may look into this for future reference.

When my friend told me that she had cut her hair, I told her "save the hair!" Well, my first thoughts were "NO, don't cut it!" But she had already cut it. So then I said "save me some hair for my blog!" I plan to test different relaxers out on it. She gave me a sandwich bag full . . . so stay tuned. This opportunity to experiment is going to be priceless.

Design Essentials fail to properly label their relaxer tubs

Back in October 2011 timeframe, I introduced the new and improved Design Essentials regular relaxer with shea butter and olive oil. Take a good look at the old packaging on the left and the new packaging on the right.

Recently, I purchased another full container of Design Essentials regular relaxer. I was floored. "No they didn't" just sell me a tub with old labeling and put a sticker with "New and Improved" on it? So let us check the ingredients.

As you can see, there is no Olive or Shea butter listed in the ingredients list. So Design Essentials used old packaging to put their new relaxer formula, but they did not bother to update the ingredients' portion.

Pictured is what the ingredients' label should be. This picture was taken of the tub with the new labeling. The ingredients may look a little blurry, but you can see "Olive Fruit" oil and Shea Butter listed. Design Essentials is a ethnic line sold nationally across the United States and probably abroad. Failure to update the ingredients label with an updated sticker to match the "new and improved" sticker is just outright unprofessional in my opinion. In addition, this relaxer has caused some shedding issues with a few Type 4 curl pattern clients. Type 3 curl patterns grow out and away from the scalp and seem to do well with this relaxer. So I am debating on discontinuing all Design Essentials relaxers for Type 4 curl patterns. I have been using the Design Essentials Stimulations conditioner to correct any shedding issues about a week or two after the relaxer touch-ups for the type 4 curl patterns. This issue has me concerned because the relaxer is quite tolerable (i.e. no burning.) However, no one wants any scalp damage. Type 4 new growth is very much concentrated and coiled at the scalp. With Design Essentials trying to "save money" on packaging, it makes you wonder how are the relaxer sales going with such a push for African American women to wear their natural hair?

What about the Wave Nouveau?

As you may guess, there are a lot of people transitioning out of chemicals and transitioning into chemicals. So what about the Wave Nouveau by Soft Sheen Carson? It is a "thio" soft curl procedure that is not compatible with relaxer services. One would have to choose between one or the other. So if you have virgin hair, then you could 1) lock it 2) relax it 3) "soft curl" process it or 4) continue the natural journey.

I decided to revisit the thought of a Wave Nouveau because I remember how beautiful another friend-girl hair was with the Wave Nouveau. It was long, wavy, and thick looking. I called her up to talk to her about when she used to have the Wave Nouveau, and I realized that her curl pattern is looser than mine. She is wearing her hair natural now and loves the low maintenance of it.

I even went to our local beauty supply store (Sally's Beauty Supply) and checked out the Wave Nouveau line. It had the typical 3 piece "soft curl" components: 1) thio relaxer 2) processing lotion and 3) neutralizing lotion. All the "soft curls" name their components different names such as "shape release" or "re-arranger."

I read reviews on the Wave Nouveau product. I think that for the kinkier hair people; the "shape releaser" may cause scalp sensitivity and may take longer to soften coarser hair. Therefore by the time you complete the whole Wave Nouveau process, kinkier hair will have processed much longer than someone with a type 3 curl pattern. So type 4 curl patterns may find their hair to be prone to dryness, frizz, and tangling.

Oh well, scratch that option for type 4 overcurly hair! It was just a thought . . .

2012: Change your Vision not your Hair!

The next time that you look through a "hairstyle" book, take the time to look closely at the models' hair textures at their roots.






What I have found that if you look past the style, the makeup, and the pose, but really look at the root of the hair to guess at curl patterns. I started seeing a trend. Almost all of the free flowing, sleek hairstyles looked like the model had a relaxed, type 3 curl pattern.

On the other hand, almost all of the "defined" shorter hairstyles looked like they had a relaxed, type 4 curl pattern. So what does that mean? Questions about curl pattern types? Please see my separate article about Andre Walker's book on hair.

Within this article, I added three pictures of what I think looks like Type 3 curl patterns and three pictures of what I think looks like Type 4 curl patterns. Can you see a difference? Most Type 4 curl patterns can not get color highlights, relaxer touch-ups and maintain length. Most Type 4 curl patterns still have a light "ripple" of texture through the relaxed strand of hair no matter what relaxer is used. Those with Type 3 curl patterns usually can get a very sleek, finished hairstyle with very little effort. So go ahead and compare pictures in this article. I will give you a hint. The ladies in the "BBD Stretch" flyer/flier would more than likely fall into a Type 3 curl pattern.

Okay. So we are born with the curl pattern that God gave us. We can elongate our curl pattern, but we can not change the starting pattern. Curl reduction (i.e. elongation) can alter it for styling control, but our foundation is "what it is."

So if you are a type 4 curl pattern, but you want a type 3 curl pattern "finish." You may not get the sleekness, but you can get the haircut and the final styling with some good movement to it.

I am on a quest to feature type 4 curl patterns within one hair (styling) book. I think that the type 3 curl patterns are featured everywhere and are often used in hair show demonstration because of the brilliant, "sealed" cuticle finish.

I just wrote an article mentioning "not that nappy" hair. In that article, I mention how the makers of KeraCare products does not reflect the "sistas" with "kink" in their hair in their more recent print ads.

It makes you wonder if these "black" marketed companies really have the best interest of the "kinky" hair in mind. Luckily, with the huge "naturally curly" movement, all the product companies are being forced with really seeing the levels of curly and kinky-curly hair that is really out there.

So hairstylists that are interested in showcasing their work on type 4 curl patterns -relaxed or natural then let me know! Please also be willing to assist with the cost of the distinguished publication.

On a separate note, I am also on a quest to feature other hairstylists internationally on this blog that are doing exceptional work! I am NOT looking for any submissions. I refuse to have hairstylists to pay to be featured on this blog. I only want to feature hairstylists that I have had to stop their client and ask "who does your hair?" I will find YOU through your work!

After months of waiting to find an exceptional head of hair outside of my own clientele (smile), I met a lady today. I gave her the invitation to give to her hairstylist. She was from Hampton, Virginia area. Historically, almost every person that I have ever met with undoubtedly exceptional hair have never been from the NC area. California, Virginia, Washington DC, New York, but not from the South. Hopefully, the hairstylist will call, and I can interview her. My fingers are crossed. The lady with exceptional hair actually was a perfect "silver fox." If I had to guess the curl pattern . . . probably a type 3 curl pattern, but it was just simply beautiful.

Okay, ladies, for 2012: embrace your texture, accept your curl pattern, and visualize growing your hair based what works for your hair type; not anyone else. Sisters can have the same mother but different hair types. Learn you. Do you. Have a Happy New year!!!!!!

Coloring Relaxed hair: What you should know!

So you are thinking about coloring your hair? First of all, If you have black, relaxed type 4b or type 4c hair, then do not even think about coloring your hair unless you are planning to maintain a short hairstyle. No exceptions. If you want to color any gray hair coming in from amongst your natural black, long, relaxed hair, then a "natural black" semi-permanent (no mixing) squeeze bottle brand of color will have to do or consider going gray.

Now, that we got that initial category of people who should not color their hair, let's talk technical about the haircoloring process.

Pictured are three developers. 10 volume developer gives one level of lift to the hair. 20 volume developer gives two levels of lift to the hair. 30 volume developer gives three levels of lift to the hair. 40 volume developer gives four levels of lift to the hair. The 40 volume developer is not shown in the picture because I do not offer 40 volume lift as a hair service. Why? If you want to maintain healthy hair, 3 levels of lift is the most lift in one setting that you can achieve and maintain healthy, non-relaxed hair. If you have Type 3, long, relaxed hair, then 15 volume developer is the highest developer level that you can use to maintain healthy, long relaxed hair in one setting.

So how do you get 15 volume developer? Mix 10 volume and 20 volume developers in equal parts to achieve a 15 volume strength. Some hair classes say 20 volume developer is safe for relaxed hair. Yes, this is true if you are planning to maintain a short hairstyle. As the hair gets longer, relaxed hair with 20 volume lift can get tempermental and break easily. I would not risk the 20 volume developer for clients desiring length.

Not sure what curl pattern you are and you are considering color? Here's a rule of thumb to go by: If you need a regular strength relaxer and your roots (new growth) are tight within six weeks or less, then you do not need to experiment with haircolor. Once the hair is lifted, a mild relaxer is the only relaxer strength that needs to be used to prevent breakage.

Also, pictured are activating lotions for demi-permanent haircolor. Please treat demi-permanent hair color like permanent haircolor as far as the rules for experimenting with color or not. Let me be clear: Demi-permanent color is not strong enough in general to lift hair to any level, but the peroxide in the lotion is what can cause kinkier hair types to become vulnerable to breakage.

Some demi-permanent haircolor can be used on the same day as the relaxer for Type 3 and some Type 4a hair types only. The processing time is 10 to 15 minutes MAX including application. However, remember Type 3 and Type 4a clientele are going to be receiving a mild relaxer anyway.

So if you are receiving a regular strength relaxer, then a no-mix brand of color is the only option for you on the same day as a relaxer. I do not care what the hairstylist was told in the color class where they are trying to sell their color line. If you are a regular strength or a super strength relaxer client, no demi-permanent color for you on relaxer day nor any other day if you want to grow your length out.

Double processed hair means the same hair strand is processed with two chemicals. (Color and relaxer) Kinky hair becomes vulnerable to breakage when double processed.

So if you have "kinky" hair and you see a lot of sistas with beautiful haircolor walking down the street? Feel free to stop them. Don't ask them who does their hair. Why? Because their hair may not be kinky. However, do ask them if they get a mild relaxer or not? and how often? If they are every six to twelve weeks, then they do not have kinky hair to start with. Their hair may not be like yours. If you find that you have the same type of hair, then ask for their hairstylist information.

In my opinion, it is a myth that most Black women have kinky Black hair. In my years of doing hair, I have found that half of the Black women in the US really do not have truly kinky, Black hair. What? Yes. I am serious. There is a lot of mixed hair out there.

Most of the hair care manufacturers are always showcasing Black women, but these Black women nine times out of ten do not represent a kinky hair, Black woman. They look like "Black women," and they are probably considered "Black" as far as race is concerned, but their hair is NOT the "kinky head of hair" that most Black women would call "real Black hair."

Let me clarify. I am not being discriminatory. In fact, many of my long hair clientele are Type 3, mixed hair. Early in my hairstyling career, I felt that what was working for Type 3 hair should be working for my "kinkier, Type 4 hair" clients. Not the right answer. In fact, it was not until I was able to compare my notes on different clients that I started seeing the common thread of what worked and when it worked. It all became clear. The natural curl pattern is the deciding factor in what can be done with haircolor and conditioner choices.

Actually, the hair care product lines are just starting to really understand Type 4, kinky hair. Thank God so many Black women started going back to their kinky, natural hair. It really forced product makers to deal with "real, Black hair." In all honesty, Type 3 hair is easier to work with natural or relaxed. It is a low maintenance curl pattern. Type 4 hair is where women are constantly fighting to control their hair. Naturally, kinky hair is stronger, but it is harder to control for styling purposes. Relaxing kinky hair makes it vulnerable because of the strength of relaxer needed to control it. So again, regular locs and sisterlocs can easily be the "go to option" where you have no limits on haircolor because there is no relaxer involved with locking hair.

I know this article started out on haircolor. So in summary, Type 3 hair and some Type 4a hair that are happy with a mild strength relaxer have very few limitations with haircolor options. Kinky hair, type 4b and type 4c, should not experiment with haircolor unless you are natural or wearing locs.

Also, let me add a message to hairstylists in general: Hairstylists that do not have "traditional kinky hair" need to know that what works for their "non-kinky" hair will not always work on Type 4 kinky hair. Hopefully, this message is received in a loving manner. I am not trying to be a "hater." God made all of us for a purpose.

Personally, I have kinky, resistant hair. It has been a "pain in my rear end," but now, that I have eliminated flat irons, sensitive scalp relaxers, permanent haircolor, keratin treatments, relaxer alternatives, heavy wigs and daily use of heating tools, (did I forget anything? Smile) I think that I finally have a regimen that will work!

Another Wash n Go Regimen for Texturized Type 4 hair

I really have been fighting with crystallization on my hair lately when I used the Kinky-Curly Knot Today leave-in plus the KeraCare Defining Custard. So I decided to add in the Sedal Co-creation Curly Conditioner that has to be rinsed out. I skipped the leave-in conditioner and went directly with the KeraCare Defining Custard. Pictured are the results of Day one hair. So far, I had less "film" on my hair, and it has control and definition. Reminder: My type 4c hair is texturized. Also, notice that the Sedal Co-creation treatment is enhanced with the Ouidad curl line technology. Please see separate article on Ouidad line for curly hair. Also, I am suppose to get the Kinky-Curly shampoo to try so that I can use the whole Kinky-Curly line at least once without crossing product lines.

Product Line Review: Ouidad

The Ouidad product line is for curly hair. I bought this bottle of Botanical Boost spray from Sephora. My Mary Kay representative gave me samples of Clear and Gentle Essential Daily Shampoo, Curl Quencher conditioner, Moisture Lock, Volumizing Foam, and Climate Control Gel. All were from the Ouidad line. Her stylist texturizes her curls as well, and she uses this regimen.
Day one hair - I achieved great volume on the first day because I am used to having flat hair after a fresh start. Also, I like that I did not get any crystallization. My other curly gels usually leave a little film to my hair, but nothing that I can not deal with. I do have to admit that my hair was a little flat, but I decided to make it stand up. It was easier to make it stand up without the crystallization effect that I sometimes work around when using my other regimen. Sometimes the "crystallization-prone" gels have a little "stickiness" to them which prevent Day one volume. Please ignore my huge forehead. I will be playing with styling more on Day 2.


Based on the back of my head, my curl definition is about the same as the other products. It is not too heavy nor too oily. I will have to see how day 2 through day 5 goes. I am happy that I got to try it without buying the whole line. It is another expensive curl line, but the six piece combination that I used, I really liked. Reminder: My type 4c hair is texturized/texlaxed.

UPDATE: By the end of Day one my "Ouidad" hair had started to shrink too tightly. I also felt that it was a little dry to the touch. My usual maintenance of Mixed Chicks Leave-in did not want to co-exist as an attempt to moisturize. It just got real sticky on my hair. Needless to say, Day 2 was a fresh wash with my KeraCare Cleansing Cream, Kinky-Curly Knot Today leave-in, and KeraCare Defining Custard.

A Closer Look at Texturized, Gray Type 4c hair

Gray hair is hair that grows in without natural pigment or melanin in it. Because it is missing pigment, the gray hair is lighter in weight and less manageable. It can be permed (curly permed/soft curled) or relaxed, texlaxed/texturized. Pictured is coarse, gray hair that started off as natural Type 4c hair from a woman with black hair and some gray hair. (Less than 25% gray) It is now texturized or texlaxed. So it went from extremely tightly coiled "z" curls to a "z" ripple!
Type 4c curl patterns do not have to be coarse. Type 4c curl patterns can be fine or medium in texture/strand diameter.
Gray hair does not have to be coarse to still be difficult to manage and hard to color. In order to keep gray hair shiny and "non-yellow," voilet base shampoos or conditioners have to be used as needed. Typically, chemicals and heat can cause gray/white hair to yellow. According to the color wheel, if you add some blue and red (i.e. violet), then it neutralizes the yellow color.

Curl Pattern Review: Which curl pattern are you?

Curly Hair Review:

Spring Roll/Curly? Many people with this wave pattern have Spanish/South American heritage. Type 2 curl pattern. It is more wavy than curly. Picture is from my.opera.com



Finger size/Curly? Many people with this curl pattern are Cuban, Dominican, and other cultures where hair is occasionally relaxed for control. Type 3c hair. The model attached looks to have two textures. Finger size curls in the front and pencil size curls in the back/nape area. Picture is from www.ebenenaturals.com

Pencil Size/Curly? Many people with this curl pattern have very mixed heritage. This curl pattern is borderline kinky, but easily can be worn as "wash n' go" hair. Type 4a hair. Picture is from www.hair-styles-secrets-revealed.com

Carpenter screw/Kinky Curly? This curl pattern is often referred to as a "Z" pattern. It is delicate in its natural state as well as when it is chemically treated. Type 4a hair. Picture is from www.ethnic-beauty-central.com


Type 4b hair; stay tuned for even more tightly coiled tresses!

Borrowed from digitalcurls.blogspot.com, Jenifer Lewis is pretty close to a type 4c pattern.



Wavy Hair Review: Body wave/S-shaped? Many people with this wave pattern come from India. Picture is from www.acannthus.blogspot.com


Deep wave/Rippled? Many people with this wave pattern have Native American Indian backgrounds.

The Truth about Texturizing: Curl Reduction

Yes! This is a "Slinky" toy. It will represent a Type 3 curl pattern.
Yes! This is an ink pen. Focus on the Spring . . . it represents a Type 4 curl pattern.
Okay. Let's take a closer look at the small spring. Does it look familiar? This is just like Type 4 kinky/curly hair.
I pulled the "Slinky" out to give a realistic look at how big the diameter of a curl can be.
I am elongating/pulling the smaller curl pattern here. This elongation represents "texturizing and reducing the tightness of the curl pattern. As I pull, I am elongating the hair strand, and the hair pattern is going to either become a "ripple" or just straighten out. Please note that this little metal spring had a little resistance to pulling on it and I needed to put my inkpen back together to write with. Despite this technical difficulty, can you see that the smaller the diameter of the curl pattern, then the less beneficial texturizing becomes? If God did not give you a "Spanish wave" then you may have to braid/plait your relaxed hair while wet and let it dry to get a deep wave look!
Now, check out me pulling out the "Slinky." The bigger the diameter of the curl, then texturizing will successfully deliver more defined waves like a "Spanish wave." Can see the difference between the two "curl patterns?" Texturizing makes more sense for people with Type 3 curl patterns that want to tame frizziness and sport more waves than curls.

Review: Design Essentials Time Release Relaxer

Design Essentials brand has reformulated all of their relaxer systems. Pictured is the Honey Nectar Time Release Regular strength. I began offering this Time Release version in March 2011. I did not want to do an immediate review of the product until I had used it repeatedly. I have learned over the years that first time success with a product does not reflect if it is a "keeper" or not. I have enough clients on this relaxer and have repeatedly gotten positive enough results to say that I plan to keep this relaxer around.

The Benefits:
1) This sodium hydroxide relaxer is great for those with sensitive scalps and extra-kinky hair that want a straighter result than what the Paul Mitchell Super strength relaxer gives. (Please see my separate articles on Paul Mitchell relaxers.)
2) The sodium hydroxide(lye) is buffered so that there is a delay in straightening the hair. This delay gives the stylist more time to part through kinky curly new growth without popping the hair.
3) The Design Essentials Honey Nectar Time Release relaxer is still considered a regular strength relaxer so if straightness is what you want, then it will get you there eventually. It does permananently soften the hair (i.e. little to no reversion in high humidity) if you process it long enough.

The Disadvantages:
4)It is still a regular strength relaxer so if you are color-treated (i.e. demi-permanent or permanent color) then you should not use anyone's regular strength relaxer. Design Essentials does not really offer a mild strength relaxer. Please consider Fiberguard Affirm relaxer system for color treated hair. Please see my separate article on this brand. If you are color treated and sensitive scalp, then I still do not have a definite relaxer recommendation yet. Sorry. Please consider discontinuing the color services or go to a "one-step, squeeze bottle, semi-permanent" color for less resistant gray hair.
5)Remember: There is a delay in this relaxer processing so I would make sure that your hairline gets the relaxer by the halfway mark as far as your timing is concerned. If you apply the relaxer to the hairline last, then the relaxer may not stay on long enough to straighten all the way. Again, this concern is for those who have overcurly, hard to part, kinky, Type 4 curl pattern new growth. If you are just a Type 3 curly pattern, but have a sensitive scalp, then apply relaxer to new growth as you normally do as quickly as you can with hairline last. Then smooth.
6) Because this relaxer is regular strength, I recommend roller set services in lieu of blow-dry services. Also, I recommend a seven to ten week wait between relaxer touch-ups. Also, please use a curling iron versus a flat iron if you decide to do any heat styling at home.
8/1/11 UPDATE: 7) I question the tensile strength of the hair after using the Design Essentials Time Release relaxer. It reminds me of the Phytospecific relaxer results. I just tried the Chi Deep Brilliance relaxer and loved it. I could immediately tell that the hair was overall stronger in tensile strength with the Chi relaxer; however, straightness and scalp sensitivity - I am still evaluating. I need a few more months. I wrote a brief article on the Chi relaxer. I will further update it as I use it more.

NOTE: According to the MSDS sheet that I found online, I believe the sodium hydroxide percentage of the Design Essential Time Release relaxer is at 2.2 which is the same as their regular strength relaxer. I attempted to talk to a company representative. After about two weeks, I received a return call from the company from one of the educators (i.e. another cosmetologist), and I could tell that she was reading from a book. She seemed easily confused when I was trying to compare their different relaxers that Design Essentials offered. I wished that I could have talked to a more technical person or a chemist, but it took two or more weeks just to get "an educator" on the line. Regardless, for those not color-treated, but have a sensitive scalp and need a relaxer strong enough to straighten versus texturize - then this is it! Thank you Design Essentials!

Review: Paul Mitchell Relaxer Super Strength

This hair was already texturized about 7 weeks prior with Paul Mitchell Super relaxer. (super strength) It has started to revert and draw back curly.
Performing a Paul Mitchell Super relaxer. Toward the end of the application, the relaxer was combed through the entire strands to try to obtain a more consistent wave pattern. Sixteen minutes (16 minutes) timing before rinsing. Taking photo was within the 17 minutes timeframe of rinsing the relaxer out.
Noticed that the super strength Paul Mitchell relaxer still left some wavy texture to the hair? This hair was originally a coarse, Type 4c curl pattern. It had been texturized before using a super strength application, it still has some curl to it.

I have mentioned in other articles in this blog about how "less aggressive" the Paul Mitchell relaxers are . . . a picture is worth a thousand words. The hair can be worn curly or straight.
This style was achieved after the Paul Mitchell Super Strength relaxer, blow dry and stove/marcel heat styling. It was too wavy to roller set. Those with Type 4c, coarse hair who desire straighter hair should look at a different brand of relaxer. This relaxer may not hold for you. Those with type 4c curl pattern, but fine hair - Paul Mitchell regular should be a good selection to start off with because of the "fineness" factor.

Many people are afraid of super strength relaxers. Rightfully so. Paul Mitchell can be your exception. Also, note: Color-treated hair is a different topic. Model pictured does NOT have haircolor nor highlighting in the hair.