FAQ about my Sisterlocks 2015

No hairspray! No haircolor!

Why does your Sisterlocks always look so manicured even though you self-maintain?
I have tightly coiled, compact hair that is resistant to be being pulled straight.  It is not prone to frizz because it compacts onto itself.  Some people mist water every day to keep their frizz down on the locs, but the nature of my hair is to shrink and stay compact.  So my locs are not WELL manicured, but because of my length at this 2 years 7 months period, most people do not notice the little Afro living at my scalp area.  My curl behavior also delivers more volume than movement when it is in a dry state.

Why are some of your ends thinner?
I never cut my relaxer out so yes, I still have matted relaxed hair at the end of my Sisterlocks. I actually like the thinner ends because it gives me an edgy look for my curly styling. Some people prefer uniform loc consistency down the complete loc, and if one's goal is to wear their locks straight and flowing then uniformity is important. Where I have a problem is when others try to impose their "look" on my locs. There is no hard standard for locs as a whole because there are over 40 hair types and curl diameters. Loc wearers need to adjust their regimen to address their own unique loc needs.

Do you color your Sisterlocks?
No, I do not color my locs.  I have some gray strands curled up and parked along the length of my locs.  Because my gray hair rolls onto itself, it can look like a "piece of lint" until you get close on it.  And no, I am not pulling out any gray hair, and no, I figured out that my "rare" hair type will NOT do well with haircolor.

Do you grease your scalp?
No, I never embraced that tradition.  Luckily, my scalp was always normal.  No flaking. No itching.  Of course, there are exceptions like when I am past due for a shampoo service or I used something that irritated it.

How are you getting your Sisterlocks to hold exotic hairstyling without hairspray?
I use Colorproof Volume shampoo or Pureology Volume shampoo to deep cleanse the locs.  I also skip the conditioner because either I will get some conditioning from the moisturizing shampoo or the leave-in styling agent.  Remember, I do not color my hair so I do not need a reconstructor. My natural curl behavior also helps me stack and build.

Why do you think that you are gaining density, volume, and length?
I do NOT stress my hair with clips nor any type of twisting with or without a hair accessory. I do NOT interloc with tension.  The interlocking technique unwinds the hair, and my hair does NOT want to be straighten by chemical, heat, nor unwinding it too taut. Some people need the tension to control the frizz, but I naturally do not have frizz so I do not need the tension on my locs when I tighten.  Now, if I was to perform permanent hair color on my loose tensioned locs, then I may get breakage because the haircolor may penetrate deep in the loc and trap.  So I am committed to no haircolor for now.  And to all of those with well manicured locs and loc updos, be careful with the tension, but if it is working for you, then don't change a thing.

How do you feel about relaxers now?
Relaxers work for the majority of the worldwide population, but unfortunately, my hair type and curl behavior does NOT fall in the range of the majority of the population.  I really tried all of my life to do what most Black women do for their hair, but it just was NOT working.  Most people probably felt that I had poor hair maintenance, but no, literally, my hair was more difficult to manage than most Black women.  Truth be told, my hair was outright unmanageable in its natural, non-processed , non-locked state.  The "Super" Paul Mitchell relaxer was not even strong enough to relax my hair completely straight, then because the bonds did not complete break, my hair would revert back within weeks. I tried so many brands of relaxers. My hair has traumatized me most of my life because it would not conform to the norms.  Now, in my latter years, my hair has taught me to "work with it" versus "against it."  I do not foresee another "bad hair" day for the rest of my life.  I do caution anyone who wants to start a loc journey - results will vary.  Locs were a natural fit for my curl behavior, but if people do not have my "hair type" then their locs will not look nor behave like mine. 

As a cosmetologist, I have seen many different curl types.  A paid loc consultation with me may save you a headache before you pay hundreds of dollars to start something that may not deliver what you are looking for.  Group speaking engagements are welcomed.

Final Review: Avlon Texture Release New Formula

 The new formula of the Avlon Texture Release system is in a spray bottle. Pictured above is the new bottle versus the old squeeze bottle.

My client's hair is resistant based on the amount of shrinkage that she has, but her curl pattern is a 4a/4b in various areas.

 My client is natural, and she maintains her own hair at home.  Her hairstyling is the results of a twist-out.

 This is another "before" picture of my client's hair from the back.  Again, her hair elongation is from a twist-out.

 Pictured above is her hair after the Avlon Texture Release service.  Her results are silky but not bone straight.  Due to the fact that she has resistant hair, the Texture Release system serves more as a texturizer. This is the finished product as far as straightness is concerned.  A titanium plate ionic flat iron was used to achieve this look.

My client and I were pleased with the final results and pleased that her hair is going to be more manageable for her own home maintanence.

As far as my personal preference, I just purchased another smoothing system that I have yet to try.  The Brazilian Blowout system really spoiled me from a simplicity standpoint, but it scared me from a health standpoint.

The Avlon Texture Release system is designed to be healthy for the professional who works with it, but it took three and half hours to complete this service.

I am hoping that the new smoothing system that I just got shipped in by yet another company will be a happy medium between healthy application and a quicker process.

Special thanks to my model/client Sierra!

Answers about Resistant Hair

I just completed a  Design Essentials Product Knowledge class with Platform Artist Yolanda.

I asked her how to determine if hair is resistant.  She said if it stands straight up on its own, then it is resistant.  She could not visually categorize my hair as resistant, but within this video I show you how my loc stands straight up!  So you get to see a closer look at my hair, my locs! 

And feel free to subscribe to my youtube channel ReelLife.

Headstart: Using Water as a Natural Detangler

Pictured above is Frizzy human hair.

When soaking wet, the human hair detangles as bonds are temporary broken.

I learned some things from my clients this week about natural hair.  Keeping a water bottle on hand is the best way to keep naturally resistant hair manageable and free of tangles.  Whether you are rolling it, braiding it, or even blow drying it, every small slice or small section at a time has to stay fully saturated with water in order to maintain control over it.

I always wondered why a blow dry service on resistant hair seemed like it grew more and more difficult as I advanced through the full head.  Literally, it seems crazy and contradictory to keep a water bottle on standby for a blow dry service but if you are blow drying resistant hair, you will have to keep re-wetting each section as you get to it while trying not to re-wet the section of the hair that you have already blown dry.

I will also re-emphasize "towel blotting" enough to keep the floor dry. However, you want a "soaking wet" head as the basis for your natural hair service.  I was amazed at the simplicity of water versus all the other leave-in conditioners on the market.

Mid-Year 2014 Hair Quiz

Periodically, I have hair tips that are too short to compose a whole article so it's time for another hair quiz!

See if you know the answers to these questions:

1) Roller set question: Does your hair have to be soaking wet going onto a roller in order to create a smooth roller set?

2) Hair color question: Can semi-permanent squeeze bottle hair color stain the hair permanently?

3) Natural loose hair question: At what phase in a thermal straightening hair service can hair be determined to be resistant or not?

4) Braiding question: Which area of the head can suffer ripping hair from the follicle if locs or hair is overtightened or braided too tightly?

5) Loc question: What is a good checkpoint for making sure a loctician is giving you even parting sizes?

6) Salon question: How do you determine if you have a high quality client draping/capes?

7) Can mildew form within your hair or your locs?

8) How can you tell if your headwrap or headscarf is allowing enough air flow to your scalp for breathability purposes?

Answers:
1)  Yes, the hair needs to be soaking wet.  The way that the wet hair looks on the roller before rolling the hair up is how the hair is going to dry.  So keep the hair very wet so that it can cling onto the roller and set smoothly when dry.  If you have too many revolutions around the roller, then that is a different problem.  Either use larger rollers or smooth the hair out using heat after it is dry.

2) Yes, semi-permanent, no mix, squeeze bottle hair color stain can still become permanent if the client is receiving a lot of hot iron services.  The heat from the irons can seal the "rinse" into the hair. Usually, over time, the heat pushes the stain deeper into the hair.  Roller sets do not press the color into the hair like a hot iron will.  This is another reason not to hot iron "dirty" hair.  You do not want to press dirt deeper into the hair shaft.

3) If your "blow-dry phase" is a "bear" then yes, you have resistant hair!  20 minutes is an average blow-dry time for relaxed hair and most natural hair that is not resistant.  If your hair requires 40 minutes to blow-dry, and you still have an afro to tame, then yes, your hair is resistant. Straightening this type of hair goes completely against this hair's natural behavior.  Interlocking may also introduce breakage because the interlocking technique actually straightens natural hair by uncoiling it. Traditional comb or finger twisting is probably the healthiest option for this type of hair.

4) The nape area is the most likely place to rip hair out because as we move our head up and down, our skin in the nape area stretches the most.  Have you ever had a new hairstylist to sew a weave track below the occipital bone in the nape area?  Once you bend your head down with a twist and a turn, you can hear hair ripping.  Same thing with locs at the nape, if interlocked too tightly, you can hear the hair ripping.  I have experienced both circumstances myself personally. So say "no" to tracks below the occipital bone and "no" overtightening of locs period.

5) Find your center part and count the rows along the hairline on each side of the center part.  The count from each side should match. 11 on one side and 11 on the other side.  If you have recounted twice, and you still get one or two rows less on one side then there is a good chance you have different size locs on each side of your head.  If the loctician does not pre-part your whole front ear to ear area before starting the locking session, then there is a chance that you are NOT going to get consistent loc sizes.

My Sisterlocks consultant that installed my Sisterlocks did NOT pre-part my hair nor did she count my rows.  So I have different sizes and a different row counts on both sides of my head. Ten versus Eleven rows.  It makes a difference, but a big chop to start over was not an option.  So be aware of this tip for those considering locs.

6)  Believe it or not, I just recently realized that my capes have loops to hang the capes by.  What an aw-haw moment!  It helps to visit other salons and see how they do things.  LOL!

7) Have you ever left wet clothes in the washing machine too long?  Mildew smell - right?  Well your hair is the same way!  You seal off wet hair or wet locs in a ponytail or a headwrap for a day or so, mildew may grow.  Just like you can smell when your clothes "sour" then you or your stylist can smell when your hair "sours."  You only need this to happen once to know that you need to be responsible when handling wet laundry.  So the same urgency is needed as it applies to your hair!

8) If you are ever curious if your hair and scalp is breathing properly, just smell your headscarf or headwrap.  If it smells sour, then "something" is not working.  Find a headwrap that allows more air flow.

Over 40 Different Hair Types

Mizani says there are eight curl types based on their 2012 Natural Curl Key.

Sisterlocks teaches about 18 different hair types in their four day training class.

I say that both companies are falling short on the number of different hair types walking around in the world. 

Based on all the natural hair that I have seen in my chair, I can safely say that there are at least forty (40) different hair types.

So if you look at a ruler or tape measure in inches, I would say that every eighth of an inch spans into a different curl pattern.  So one person's curl diameter may be 1/8" and another 1/4" and so on up until about 1.25 inches in diameter.  Well that gives you at least 10 curl patterns.  Then each of those ten curl patterns are either: deep set or shallow. And then on top of that, they are either stiff/resistant or pliable.  So that makes 10 x 2 x 2 which equals 40 different hair types.

Please note, that shallow curl patterns can NOT be texturized because the curl pattern will go from "shallow" to just plain "straight."  There is no middle of the road with shallow curl patterns.

If you have a deep curl pattern, then a texturizer will make a deep set into a shallow curl pattern.

If you are not sure of whether or not your curl pattern is deep or shallow, then grab your natural hair and slightly stretch or elongate it.  If it still has a wave to it, then you have a deep curl pattern.  If it looks straight with minimal stretching, then your curl pattern is shallow.

Now, shallow curl patterns can be resistant or stiff despite the fact that they are close to straight as far as curl patterns go.  The resistance factor is how strong the hair proteins want to remain undisturbed.  On the flip side, a deep curl pattern is possible that it is pliable and easily straightened.

Resistant hair whether deep or shallow will resist being straightened by heat and will resist being straightened by chemical.

Some resistant hair if texturized will eventually reform into its original protein bonds as if the chemical never even took.  So for some resistant hair, if you do not completely "knock" the "kinks" out of the hair, it will revert back.  Also, please understand that if you are going against the resistant hair trying to straighten it with chemicals or heat, you stand the risk of making it fragile, but it will be straight.

In my opinion, once someone determines that they have truly resistant hair whether it is a 3/4" curl diameter or 3/8" curl diameter, micro-locking by coiling or interlocking should be presented as an option.  Resistant hair will less likely maintain long straight lengths because it will be pre-deposited to breakage due to the processing required to "knock" the kink out of it.

Roller set/wet set are still the best secret to maintaining length, but the hair has to be straight enough to wrap around the roller in a smooth manner which goes back to how effective the relaxer took.

If you have pliable, soft, manageable hair, then maintenance is much easier because the hair is NOT resistant to change.

I would like to conclude with a real life Q and A scenario:

Reader says:
I am rethinking going natural.  It took me too many hours to wash and straighten my hair.  As soon as I finish a few sections, the first ones are back to poof a ball again.  I am eight months post relaxer, and it has been rough.

My response:
Everyone's curl pattern and curl behavior in regards to shrinkage is different. So everyone's natural journey is unique to their hair's unique makeup.  I have seen soooo many different natural hairtypes in my chair that I can safely say that there are probably 40 different natural hair types.  Based on the scenario that you just described, you need two different products to moisturize/stretch then seal it with a defining gel for control.  If that does not work, then you need to consider micro-locking by coiling or interlocking.  If your hair is as resistant to straightening as you described, then you will damage it in order to make it hold straight. Be true to thine self. I have seen darker skinned sisters with loose curl patterns and lighter skinned sisters with ultra coily hair.  Your hair knows what it wants to do.  You either work with it or against it.  After eight months post relaxer, you should know if you can control your hair without locking and without chemicals.  It's all about control.  Otherwise, you start the day with one style and  by the end of the day, you are trying to figure out why there's nothing left of the style.  More bad hair days than good hair days are a definitely a sign for change.

Game Changer: Resistant or Non-pliable Hair

So I decided to use an "edge gel" on my hairline to give my lock styling a more polished appearance.

Within two hours, my hairline was no longer "laid."  Wow!  So the "edge gel" is NO match for my resistant curl pattern.  So with that said, I formally introduce another category of hair to the "natural community" - resistant or non-resistant hair.  In Sisterlocks terminology, the category would be non-pliable or pliable hair respectively.

So you can be a Type 3 or even a Type 4c as far as curl pattern or texture is concerned, but whether or not your hair is resistant is going to be another factor in your hair regimen.

Resistance equals shrinkage.  Some people relate to the term "shrinkage" better than "resistance."

If your curl pattern's behavior is resistant to elongation (i.e. extremely quick shrinkage speeds), then the relaxers must work longer and harder to soften the hair strand to allow for permanent straightening. Upon successful relaxation of the resistant hair strands, the hair strands will undoubtedly be weaker than someone who gets their less resistant hair relaxed.

The curl pattern actually is less relevant because the resistance level becomes the factor in determining whether the "relaxer" takes as well.

So where am I going with this train of thought?  I strongly feel that those with extremely "resistant" hair should consider controlling their curl pattern by locking it versus using chemicals to control it.

Am I trying to get everyone to lock their hair?  NO.  Definitely not.  I have some clients with gorgeous, moderate to low resistant hair that are doing superb with relaxers.  They are growing long into mid-back lengths.  I would not dare encourage these clients to go natural because the relaxer systems WORK for them.

However, I have encountered and seen many Black women in public that should give up the relaxers.  It's not that they have "bad hair."  It's not that they don't "take care" of their hair.  It's not the relaxer system that they are using is inferior.  What it is . . . their hair needs a regimen that works with their curl pattern versus against it.  That regimen will more than likely be traditional locking of the hair by coiling or twisting.

I do NOT suggest interlocking or Sisterlock'ing resistant hair that falls into a Type 4 curl pattern.  I actually ran into yet another lady with long micro-locks.  She actually started twisting her hair in lieu of interlocking because (like me) the interlocking method with the tool was damaging her hair in her opinion.

On the flip side, I definitely have run into women who have spent a lot of money and time trying to coil and twist their hair, only to discover that their hair will NOT stay coiled.  These women would benefit from the interlocking method (such as Sisterlocks) for maintaining locks.

I hope that my message in this article is not sounding redundant, so let me suggest to those ready for a change:

1) Learn your curl pattern type, texture, resistance/pliability level.

2) Choose the path that works for your own unique hair type.

You may be asking - how do I learn my hair type, etc.?  My answer is simply this:

1) If your current hair care regimen IS working for you, then do NOT change a thing.  You do not need to discover your natural curl pattern unless you want to join the "curly" movement.

2) However, if your hair is constantly consuming your life and quality of life about every month trying to control the new growth, then discontinue what has NOT been working and consider protective styling for about two or three months.  This will allow your virgin hair to grow in at your root area.

3) When you achieve your two or three months of hot iron-free and chemical-free hair, start studying your new inch or inch and a half of new growth.  Study the elongation and shrinkage speeds. Study how it coils.

4) Decide on your new path for your hair before performing a "big chop."

Need help with this evaluation?  And you are in the Charlotte, NC area?  Contact me at Applebaum Salon.  (www.thefashionfloor.com)  We anticipate expansion within the coming year.

Curl diameter of Type 4c curl pattern

 My finger is magnified in the picture above.  The picture below is more actual size.  The diameter of my curl pattern is sooooo small that you can barely see the hair on my finger without magnifying it.

Totally different perspective of the same hair right?  Did you know that your sistah's curl pattern can be so different than yours?

Pictured is two (top curl) to four months (bottom curl) of hair growth all curled up on itself, and people wonder why they are not seeing grow.  If you have two to fours months of hair breaking off at one time, then you probably are not going to gain length quickly unless you control the breakage. Tight curl patterns that are resistant to elongation can break easily if it does not stay hydrated whether it is loose or locked hair.

Blowdrying this curl pattern with a comb attachment would do more damage than good. A Denman brush or a boar bristle brush would be the only way to go.

So does anyone have a curl pattern diameter smaller than mine?  If so, I want to hear from you!!!!!

Chemical Review: Vigorol Liquid Hair Relaxer

 First of all, I love the new Vigorol packaging.  It's a fresh new look!  I bought two different Vigorol leave-in conditioners as well.  One is Olive and soy for moisture, and the second is Keratin and Avocado for protein support.  I prefer the Olive and soy version because everyone is going to need the moisture more than the protein.

So for all the natural hair folks that are considering this,  save your shedded hair from your next shampoo and detangle session.  Try the Vigorol on your sample of your own hair first so that you can see what the Vigorol does to your hair and how fast it works.

 I used hair samples from three different clients.  The first two samples from the left have very similar curl patterns, BUT the middle one was excessively resistant to the Vigorol relaxer compared to the first one on the left.  Even after 20 minutes, the middle sample still had some bounce back when it was stretched so I kept the Vigorol on it over 20 minutes.

As you can see the first sample on the left was a 4b/c curl pattern and it softened without much bounce back almost immediately.  I am not sure if this particular hair sample had any permanent color in it already.  The third sample to the right (picture below) definitely had some demi-permanent color in it, and it immediately softened as well.

In conclusion, I do not recommend the Vigorol for color-treated hair. I think the liquid works too quickly and with it being liquid, you need to apply slowly and carefully not to make a mess or get it running off on your face or clothes.  I would say 10 to 15 minutes max for color treated hair.  I only left the Vigorol on for the sample of hair on the far right for 10 minutes.  The far left for 20 minutes.  The middle sample about 25 to 27 minutes.

For the really resistant hair without any haircolor no matter the curl pattern, I think the Vigorol is a good texturizing option versus a relaxer.  If your hair is truly resistant, texturized hair works well in combination with heat styling.

As far as chemical smell, when you open the bottle there is a definite odor, but the rinse and the Vigorol neutralizing shampoo washed all the odor away.  The neutralizing shampoo smells nice and fresh.

The Denman Straightening Brush

As you know, the Denman brand is well-known for quality brushes.  Well, this Denman model is the D79.  It is called their thermoceramic straightening brush.

 It closes similar to a flat iron. The short boar bristles inside the brush aid in gliding hair straight.  This brush is now a  God send for me.  80% of the online reviews were very favorable for this brush.

Occasionally, I get clients who have resistant, long, thick natural hair.  I tried the paddle brush, the traditional Denman brush, round brushes, vented brushes, and comb attachments.  None of these worked without maximum effort.  Most of the time, there was too much hair to control at one time even after dividing the hair up into many sections.

So finally, I gave the Denman straighening brush a try.  I was able to control my sections as I blow dried on medium heat. I only closed the brush partially and kept working it like I was flat ironing with a handheld blow dryer in the opposite hand.  Once the section was about 80% dry, I used the comb attachment to finish out the straightness.This has been the best combination of tools thus far for long, thick, resistant, natural hair.

Actually, this Denman straightening brush is probably good for short, resistant, natural hair as well.  Any hair that springs back really quickly when stretched out can be controlled with this straightening brush.

The uans crema conditioner also provided great moisturizing in a short amount of time.

Resistant hair: No Match for Relaxers plus Length

 So everyone is familiar with the different hair types being Type 1 through Type 4 with subcategories of a, b, and c.  Now, let's take the discussion one step farther . . .  Resistant versus Non-resistant.  Someone with a Type 4c curl pattern may have a finer and less resistant behavior than another individual with a Type 4c curl pattern who has a coarser, more resistant behavior.  So both people can have similar curl patterns, but the texture of the strands may dictate its resistance behavior and shrinkage behavior.

 This miniature "slinky" represents a "resistant" hair type.  When elongated, it naturally wants to spring back into its original condensed form.  This "resistant" hair behavior is excellent for locking because it likes to coil around everything in its path.  Extensions, braids, etc.   However, to straighten or relax this type of resistant hair, the relaxer has to work very hard to soften the bonds to rearrange them not to behave in its natural behavior.  Sometimes a mild strength relaxer is not strong enough to straighten a resistant hair type, but the toxic dangers to the scalp remain the same.  Alopecia and thickening of the scalp can results from prolonged relaxer exposure in an attempt to straighten resistant hair.

To test your resistance of your natural hair, just pull a strand of elongated hair from your head or comb and  drop it in a clear cup of water.  If there is no product or oils on it, then you should be able to see the hair strand do one of two things.   1) Either it will very slowly start to coil and shrink within a few minutes or 2) it will quickly coil and shrink at the "speed of light" like in two seconds.

If it is "speedy" then the hair is resistant.  If it is "slow" to coil, then it is non-resistant.  Non-resistant hair can grow long with the use of mild relaxers, but it may be harder to lock because of potential unravelling.

Now, resistant, coarse hair, is very difficult to grow long using relaxers.  Locks will grow it long, but relaxer and other straightening services will become a battle between style and health.  If a person with resistant hair can manage to style their hair for 8 to 10 weeks at a time in between relaxer touch-ups, then long length is possible.  However, most women with resistant, coarse hair can not get past their hairline becoming kinky within the five weeks period.

Decisions, Decisions.  Food for thought for those sitting on the fence about what to do next with your hair.