Relaxer and Roller Set Success in November 2015

Hair by Benita Blocker

(Relaxer and roller set, NO Extensions)

Hair by Benita Blocker

(Relaxer and Roller Set, NO Extensions!)

Both of these clients are on the Paul Mitchell relaxer system.  I now use color alert neutralizing shampoos as a part of the neutralizing process.  As I mentioned in a previous article on this blog, my salon water tested to be more alkaline in pH so I am now allowing the final neutralizing shampoo lather to sit undisturbed for five minutes to make sure the pH of the hair normalizes back closer to its acidic level.

Styling aid for coarser hair:  Nairobi setting lotion with Tropical Roots Jamaican Black Castor Oil spray.
Styling aid for fine hair: Jane Carter Solutions Wrap and Roll foam

Hair by Benita Blocker

(Two weeks post relaxer)

This client in the pink top is relaxed with the VitalePro High Comfort Regular Relaxer.  Her hair is naturally gray. Nairobi Setting Lotion (from concentrate) was used to roller set this client.

Reality Checklist about Hair

Conditioners

Client complaint:  The conditioner dried my hair out. We do not need to use that conditioner again.

My response:  (after checking the client's profile) We have used that conditioner before, and you did not have any complaints.  In addition, it only sat on your hair for 5 to 7 minutes without any heat.  It may have been overhydrating resulting in the curls not holding, but I do not understand how a client can be so concerned about a conditioner's performance but the same client wants to maintain her chemical relaxer touch-up without any hesitation.????

Lesson:  No one should be more scared of a conditioner than a permanent chemical relaxer.

Hair Edges

(New) Client complaint:  I need my edges to stay straight for at least two weeks at a time- so if we need to relax them, then we can.  Then we can use a cosmetic cover-up wand to make the edges look fuller.

My response:  If you feel your edges are thin, then to continue to relax them every three or four weeks is going to continue to make them thinner.

Lesson: Sometimes you have to decide between textured edges or "no edges."  Face the reality of one's hair texture especially if you are over age 40.  Nothing recovers as quickly as we age including your scalp.  If one can afford to make peace with hair extensions and/or hair replacement for a few more decades, then it is all good.

Professional Color Alert Neutralizing Shampoos

Avlon Fiberguard Affirm and Avlon Affirm normalizing shampoos both work well to identify relaxer residue.  VitalePro's Neutralizing Shampoo had a faint pink alert, but no where near the intensity that Avlon's shampoos delivered.

These are the consumer and professional grade neutralizing shampoos that I trust with the Paul Mitchell relaxer service and any other relaxer system that does not have a "color alert" built into their relaxer system.  I have been surprised that despite rinsing along with one Paul Mitchell Shampoo two lather, I still get pink residue upon using a color alert neutralizing shampoo during my Paul Mitchell relaxer services.  The oily base used prior to relaxer application may cause the relaxer to not thoroughly rinse out. This is my theory since oil and water do not mix so a "color alert" shampoo is necessary to erase all doubt.

Color Alert Neutralizing Shampoo Competition

In my search for neutralizing shampoos with Color Alerts built-in, I discovered that Hawaiian Silky had  two different neutralizing shampoos.  One is for "No Lye" relaxers and the other is for a "Lye"relaxers.  Wow!!!  I was impressed.

So I used Fiberguard Affirm Normal "Lye" relaxer as my test relaxer.  I also picked up Maxi Professional Hair Repair Neutralizing Shampoo, Elasta QP Stop Action conditioning neutralizing shampoo, and African Essence Neutralizing Shampoo Plus to test for the color alert functionality.

I figured the Hawaiian Silky "No Lye" neutralizing shampoo was not going to work because I was testing with a "lye" relaxer, but to my surprise, neither of the Hawaiian Silky neutralizing shampoos worked compared to the rest of the other brands that I was testing. 

The Maxi Professional brand and the Elasta QP brand both showed immediate color alerts.

The African Essence brand worked quickly as well, but the color alert was not as bright and plentiful as the Elasta QP, but it worked significantly better than the Hawaiian Silky brand.

I decided to test the Isoplus Neutralizing Shampoo and Conditioner brand as well.  The color alert worked immediately.  This Isoplus neutralizing shampoo is one of the top recommendations for the price, and it is sold almost everywhere including Sally's Beauty Supply.

So first place is a tie!  The winners are Isoplus and Maxi Professional (listed in alphabetical order).  Both have thicker consistency.  African Essence and Elasta QP are both in second place because of their thinner product consistency.  All four brands really do the job.  

Note:  I initially had Elasta QP in the first place position, but because I probably dispensed more product out due to its thinner nature - I think that second place is more fair and in line with the African Essence consistency.  The Isoplus and Maxi professional could easily be used with an applicator nozzle because of their thickness.  It is all about customizing and personal preference.

On the other hand, Hawaiian Silky may need to go back to the lab.  I will have to test the No-Lye neutralizing shampoo on a "no lye" relaxer at a later date, but for now, I will keep my color alert winners on hand.

As you may recall, I had been using the NuExpressions 10 in 1 Conditioner as a color alert, but I got tired of importing it in because there are no distributors in the metro Charlotte, NC area.  So from a convenience standpoint, I wanted other color alert options.  So now, I have them!

A Quick Squeeze Nozzle Test showed that the NuExpressions 10 in 1 Conditioner was the superior color alert option, Isoplus was second, and with Maxi Professional showing only a slight pink (center color on stick).  Tests like these give me a clearer perspective to how products compare.