Preview: Thioglycolate Chemicals

Within the next two weeks, I will be performing the Vigorol Liquid Hair Relaxer and the Wave Nouveau with Coarse/Resistant strength rearranger.

I have had request for other chemical options besides the traditional relaxers and keratin treatments.

I am hoping the Vigorol is going to be an answer for those desiring to tame their natural hair.  It is not compatible with traditional sodium hydroxide relaxers; so clients will have to be thoroughly counselled.

The Wave Nouveau has two rearranger strengths whereas Wave by Design only has one rearranger strength.  Those with resistant hair find that the Wave by Design rearranger only texturizes their new growth.

My body wave client from a previous article is ready to advance the strength of the rearranger by using the Wave Nouveau system.  I plan to post those results within two more weeks.  I should perform the service next week.

So this article is the preview of the "thio" chemical reviews on the horizon for you in the future.  Please stay tuned!

Should you Sue your Hairstylist?

Lawsuits as it relates to hair are always being tossed around. This article is based on what I know as a customer receiving hair services over the decades as well as working in the hair industry for a decade.

In my opinion, there are accidents and then there are acts of gross negligence.  Let's discuss what I think is considered gross negligence, and you should have no problem winning a lawsuit against a hairstylist.

1) Gross Negligence is when manufacturer's instructions are not followed resulting in immediate hair loss.

Example:  If the hairstylist is not using the proper measuring cup for sensitive scalp relaxers.  In the picture above, the measuring cup on the left is for Avlon's Affirm, Fiberguard Affirm relaxers. The measuring cup on the right is for Design Essentials Sensitive Scalp relaxers.  There are lines on the measuring cups.  The activator liquid should be as precise as possible when mixing the sensitive scalp relaxer.  In the picture below, I have an almost expired tub of  sensitive scalp relaxer  and the appropriate measuring cup. So when does this procedure become gross negligence?  If the hairstylist scoops out half of a "fresh" tub to conserve on product to possibly get two uses out of one "small" tub of sensitive scalp relaxer then she/he pours activator liquid into the reduced amount of relaxer without using the designated measuring cup.  So in essence, the stylist creates a "beyond super strength" customized relaxer and then puts it on the client's hair, and the client's hair breaks off 3 inches in the bowl and the cuticle is blown wide open.  This is gross negligence.  The activator liquid is the "fire" that makes the sensitive scalp relaxers work.  This mixing of a chemical should follow the manufacturer's direction exactly.  If the hairstylist uses another brand of neutralizing shampoo, then that is not gross negligence.  That is just bad practice.  But again, mixing the chemical improperly is gross negligence in my opinion.

Some of you may think that this story is far fetch, but I assure you it is not.  I was the customer when this happened to me and the hairstylist that ruined my hair that day still avoids me at all cost.  The only way that I knew what happened was because I had brought my own relaxer system with me because she was out.  (Flag!)  Then she attempted to base my scalp with "Equate petroleum jelly" until I told her "no." So she borrowed another stylist's proper relaxer base appplicator bottle. (Flag!)  After my hair length went from below my chin in the front to cheek level by the time that I left the salon, I just sucked the situation up until when I got back to my own salon and unpacked my relaxer system and realized that there was a half a tub of relaxer in my bag.  I called her to ask what did she do . . . she explained exactly what I described to you.  She was a "discount" stylist and was trying to conserve on relaxer.  After later researching how sensitive scalp relaxers work, I concluded that the permanent color (double processed hair) in the front and the "Super, Super Strength" relaxer concoction she created broke my hair off immediately.  She admitted that she did not notice the permanent color in my hair until after the relaxer service.  So did I sue her?  "No"   Could I have sued her?  "Yes"  She did not follow the manufacturer's directions.  I had a half tub of sensitive scalp relaxer as proof plus some before and after pictures.

On a separate note,  sensitive scalp relaxers should be immediately used after mixing them because they become increasingly unstable.  A hairstylist should NOT pre-mix the sensitive scalp relaxer to save time and store in the refrigerator.  A sensitive scalp relaxer mixed too soon before application can be more aggressive on the hair and cause some breakage.  This bad practice in my opinion is not gross negligence, but I would be cautious if the relaxer feels cool during the application process.  And yes, I had a different hairstylist who used to refrigerate the sensitive scalp relaxers that she pre-mixed.  I personally do not offer sensitive scalp relaxers because long term they have been proven to be more drying to the hair.  In addition, the Affirm relaxer line has improved to the point that it is tolerable for all clients including those with sensitive scalps.

2) Gross negligence is also experimenting on a client with a new chemical without knowing the ingredients or the chemical base of the new product causing immediate breakage due to chemical incompatibility.

Example: It is basic knowledge from "hair school" that thio based chemicals and relaxers are NOT compatible because they soften two different hair bonds.  Typically, thio based chemicals produce a distinct smell when applied.  So if the chemical procedure has a strong odor, then that is a "clue" to you that it may be a thio based process and should not be applied to a client with previously relaxed hair.  Breakage will occur if those two chemicals meet.  So with that said, some manufacturers will promote Keratin based services with a thio derivative to avoid saying it is thio based which is deceptive marketing.  If it is a thio derivative, then it still is not compatible to hydroxide based relaxers.  Some "texturizers" are also thio based.  I believe "Vigorol" is also a thio based liquid relaxer which is NOT compatible with traditional relaxers.

As a consumer, you should have the hairstylist write down the exact name of the "new" chemical that is being used so you can research the product in case you see abnormal changes with your hair.

All other "hair accidents" are just that "accidents."  If the hairstylist is overworked, lapse in judgement can happen.  In addition, some hair types respond differently to different procedures.

Also, hair extensions can cause damage to the hair during the removal process. So if someone is wearing   adhesive based hair extensions for three years straight, then yes, they may expect some damage has occurred over a three year span of removal and re-applications.  Who is at fault?  I believe that the courts would rule that hair extensions as well as relaxers are "use at your own risk" because both processes can cause damage, but most people take the risk because they like the finished look of a successful service.

Consumers should know that hairstylists are on the "front line."  If the manufacturers change their ingredients, then hairstylists are at the mercy of the new formula working, and customers must being patient enough to work through any additional changes that need to be made to continue achieving successful results.

Hair is a practice like a doctor/dentist/attorney.  It is never going to be perfect for everyone all the time.  We all make the best of it by continuing to learn and progress.  Let me know if you have questions about a particular hair situation.

Also, if you pursue small claims court, it may cost you over $90 to file the case.  So if your hair service in question costs less than $100 then why pay $90 trying to get $90?

So, unless the hair service costs over $200, then I do not recommend pursuing small claims court to get a refund. Most professional hairstylists will refund some monies before it gets that far.

Body Wave Hair Service Overview

Hair by Benita Blocker.  Wave by Design (Design Essentials) is the soft curl/body wave system that I used to achieve this style with my new client from the California USA area.  This service was a "touch-up" service because she transferred to the Carolinas area having been a veteran in knowing how to maintain this curl system.  I used white perm rods all over to achieve this body wave finish.

The service time is around the same time as a relaxer.  Maintenance requires Wave by Design "Mist and Shine" spray at the roots and  Wave by Design "Define and Shine" lotion on the hair on a daily to every two days basis.

This client's history included "burning" from traditional relaxer services and going natural for two years.  She grew tired of working with her tightly coiled hair as her lifestyle became more hectic.  The soft curl or body wave system became a  perfect fit because she never burned with various curl systems such as Wave by Design, Wave Nouveau and Avlon's Ferm systems.

Many local people still remember the "dripping Jheri Curl" days.  The maintenance product technology is different now.  The moist look can be achieved without being "messy."





Above is the before and after pictures of the back of my client's head.  My client had just received a big haircut prior to coming to me so she missed her length.  We added "wet and wavy" extension hair to achieve her final look.  Her final look is to achieve the Type 2b/c curl pattern.

In the "before" picture below, my client hair is prepped for the "rearranger" step to straighten her new growth at the roots only.  She is a Type 4 curl pattern which is resistant to straightening.  The roots gave a more texturized look after using the rearranger, but please remember this is a thio based service so it is not compatible with the traditional relaxer.  Only individuals with natural virgin hair should consider this service option  if they are tired of their natural curl pattern and do not want to go back to a traditional relaxer.

According to a "Wave by Design" educator out of New York, the "soft curl" procedure long term may cause clients to lose some hair thickness over the long haul.  Please see my previous blog article comparing the curly perm versus the "soft curl" system.  The chemical exposure to the hair is definitely longer than the traditional relaxer service.

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Final Evaluation: Pravanna Keratin Fusion Texture Control

First of all, as their website now states "Pravanna Keratin Fusion Texture Control is NOT similiar to a brazilian keratin treatment (BKT). However, it IS similar to a Japanese Reconditioning Treatment." In my downtime, I decided to perform this treatment on one of my kinky haired mannequins.

First of all, the mixture does smell like "perm solution" which is stinky. They have promoted this product as "zero thio," but there is some sort of thio derivative as its core chemical ingredient.

I decided only to perform the procedure on the right half of my mannequin head. I had been using this mannequin for press and curl trial and errors. It was purchased with kinky hair so that it can be relaxed, etc. No relaxer has touched this mannequin. I have used all types of hot tools at various different heat settings on this mannequin. So the hair was a little compromised.

I worked the properly measured solution through the right side of the mannequin head. It is definitely best to have mininmal tangles in the hair before starting your application. The solution does not undo knots. It does seem to soften tangle-free hair. I performed the "knot test" to make sure the hair had processed long enough. It looked straight until I rinsed the chemical solution from it. The mannequin hair felt weak and dry and looked wavy not straight. I did not flat iron it which was supposed to be the next step in order to permanently straighten it. I decided to detangle and neutralize it with the bonding lotion that was included in the kit. The hair still felt dry and weak so I had to condition it to get to normalize.

I did a simple styling to it for this article. I will probably sisterlock the other half of the head or maybe even relax a quadrant on the left side. I am personally happy that I never suggested this treatment for ethnic hair. When this product was first launched it was misleading. I think BioIonic has a similar "smoothing" treatment that is also more thio based. Please remember that relaxers and thio do not mix. The two chemicals break two different bonds. Please do not be fooled by derivatives. If your hair regimen may include relaxer some time in the future, then you should NOT use Pravanna Keratin Fusion Texture Control. You would have to grow it out before relaxing your hair. I know that the before and after pictures look great on here, but without proper conditioning, the hair felt so raw and abnormal. I did not like this product for anyone with Type 4 curl pattern.

What about the Wave Nouveau?

As you may guess, there are a lot of people transitioning out of chemicals and transitioning into chemicals. So what about the Wave Nouveau by Soft Sheen Carson? It is a "thio" soft curl procedure that is not compatible with relaxer services. One would have to choose between one or the other. So if you have virgin hair, then you could 1) lock it 2) relax it 3) "soft curl" process it or 4) continue the natural journey.

I decided to revisit the thought of a Wave Nouveau because I remember how beautiful another friend-girl hair was with the Wave Nouveau. It was long, wavy, and thick looking. I called her up to talk to her about when she used to have the Wave Nouveau, and I realized that her curl pattern is looser than mine. She is wearing her hair natural now and loves the low maintenance of it.

I even went to our local beauty supply store (Sally's Beauty Supply) and checked out the Wave Nouveau line. It had the typical 3 piece "soft curl" components: 1) thio relaxer 2) processing lotion and 3) neutralizing lotion. All the "soft curls" name their components different names such as "shape release" or "re-arranger."

I read reviews on the Wave Nouveau product. I think that for the kinkier hair people; the "shape releaser" may cause scalp sensitivity and may take longer to soften coarser hair. Therefore by the time you complete the whole Wave Nouveau process, kinkier hair will have processed much longer than someone with a type 3 curl pattern. So type 4 curl patterns may find their hair to be prone to dryness, frizz, and tangling.

Oh well, scratch that option for type 4 overcurly hair! It was just a thought . . .