November 2014 Honorable Mentions

1.  Avlon Industries - makers of KeraCare and Affirm have launched a new hair maintenance line in response to the diversion challenges of the KeraCare line.  I have not tried the Affirm MoisturRight products yet, but the shampoos are sulfate-free.  Hopefully, you heard this announcement from me first!  Smile.

2. Please be careful with facial cleansers.  They can cause additional dryness around the hairline resulting in breakage.  You may want to wear a sweat band to protect your hairline when getting facials and/or cleansing your face at home.

3. Facial hair on women can happen as women age.  As a woman's female hormones lessen, unwanted facial hair may appear in the chin or jawline. i.e. chin wax

4. The hair on top of your head is not the only hair on your body that goes gray.  Eyebrows, underarms, private areas can become "salt and pepper" as well. Don't you love the aging process!  Ha Ha Ha

5. There are more metallic haircolors available now to mimic gray hair for those who want to become a "silver fox."

6. The NuDred sponge has even more competition now.  I have seen the knock-off version of it in the beauty supply store.  I first introduced the NuDred sponge in January of this year.  Please see separate blog article for more information on the original NuDred sponge.

7. Those in love with raw organic coconut oil, do not forget the cold weather may lessen the benefits of it because it will solidify on and off the hair. Please consider a different hairdressing for the winter months such as My Honey Child Sophia's Old Fashioned Hair Grease.  Please see my separate blog article on My Honey Child products.

8. Some natural women are finding that the conditioners that you usually rinse out work well as a leave-in styling agent.

9. Some of the towering large afros that you may see are actually wigs, but not all of them.  The real afros may get the assistance of a blow dryer.

10. Design Essentials Honey custard can be layered on top of the Almond and Avocado Detangling Leave-in Conditioner to lock in the style without any extra residue.

This is all the tidbits that I wanted to address for now.  I look forward to posting my "Best of" list by December of this year!  

Sulfate versus Sulfate-Free: When to Use Each?

Products with sulfates have been around for centuries; however, the sulfate-free trend has everyone running away from shampoos that have sulfates in them.  Please ease your mind.  There is a place in the beauty world for BOTH types of shampoos.

Shampoos with a Sulfate in them work best in the following cases:

1) Neutralizing a chemical relaxer - you want your neutralizing shampoo to have sulfates in it to wash out all the "bad stuff" from the hair.

2) Cleansing hair bleach, hair lightener, or color remover from the hair- you want a deep cleansing shampoo with sulfates to make sure the pigment that you just lifted up is washed away to keep it from going back into the hair.  Also, you want to wash out all the "bad stuff" from the hair as well.

3) The first cleansing after a permanent hair color application should be a shampoo with a sulfate in order to wash away any extra "bad stuff" that did not get rinsed out.  Only one lather of the shampoo with sulfate is necessary because you want to avoid stripping the haircolor that you just put in.  The color sealant and other sulfate-free shampoos can used for the second and third lathers after the permanent haircolor service.

4) Deep cleansing the hair in preparation for a demi-permanent or semi-permanent haircolor with a wet application should be done with a shampoo with sulfates to make sure that their is no product buildup on the hair that would prevent the low-strength haircolor from adhering to the hair.

5) Deep cleansing hair with a lot of oil, grease, and layers of products should be done with shampoos with sulfates until the hair feels free of the excessive slickness.  Some finer hair that gets oily quickly should also be cleansed with a shampoo with sulfates to prevent the fine hair from being heavy and limp.

6) Most Keratin treatments or Smoothing Treatments require a shampoo with sulfate in it to prepare the hair to accept the keratin solution.

When to use Sulfate-Free Shampoo?

1) If you are not receiving a chemical service, then sulfate-free shampoo should be the best way to go!

2) If your natural hair does not feel too heavy from product build-up then stick with sulfate-free shampoos until your hair starts to look dull.  When the hair begins to look dull, then clarify it with a sulfate shampoo.

3) If you are trying to maintain your haircolor to keep your gray hairs "undercover," then yes, please stick with sulfate-free shampoo to keep the color from fading too quickly.

4) If your hair feels a little dry and brittle, then stick with sulfate-free shampoo to moisturize the hair while cleansing it.

Okay.  Simple enough rules- right?

KeraCare Sulfate-Free Hydrating Detangling Shampoo

The Sulfate-free version of the KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo came out years ago, but many stylists preferred the "Classic" version for wet set services. The ingredients in the sulfate-free version of the hydrating detangling shampoo are healthier than the "classic" version.  Also, the pH value of 6.0 helps to elevate the cuticle and loosen up dirt.

I started using this shampoo as my first lather with almost every client over the last few weeks, and I really am seeing incredible shine and less frizz even when they come in for their next appointment.  It may be the wheat protein that is in the product is strengthening the hair without extra heat.

I am not sure why this shampoo seems to make a difference in my non-chemical hair services, but I definitely found a new favorite.  Natural or relaxed hair should feel at ease with at least one lather from this shampoo.

Introduction: ColorProof Evolved Color Care line

Well, the rumor is that the original developers of the Pureology line (one of my favorites) has launched another product line called "ColorProof."  I finally got to try the SuperRich Moisture component of the line.  The Moisture Shampoo sudsed up nicely to be sulfate free.  The Moisture conditioner also delivers a scalp tingling sensation similar to the Pureology Hydrate conditioner.

As I run out of my Pureology supply, I will probably convert to this new evolved color care line.  I was impressed with the concentration of the product.  A little goes a long way.  I also had one client complain that the Pureology Hydrate shampoo smells like a "patchouli" plant which reminded her of her grandmother.  Apparently, that was not a good memory.  Smile.  Anyway, the Colorproof SuperRich Moisture shampoo smells like "cinnamon."  Hopefully, by the fall, I will gradually phase into Colorproof product line.

Product Review: Renpure Organics Conditioner Color Protecting

This little neon green egg shaped packaging caught my attention in my local Harris Teeter grocery store. The "CLEARANCE PRICING" on the shelf for the whole product line also caught my attention. After reading the ingredients on this Color Protecting Deep Deep Deep Conditioner, I found plenty of glycerin and palm oil as well as some other great ingredients. It smelled fresh enough to experiment with so I bought it.

I used it a few times here and there, and I felt it worked pretty good with softening and detangling hair. It has a distinguished fruity smell that makes you alert to the use of the product. It does not smell bad but distinct enough to make anyone ask what is that conditioner that you are using?

The Renpure Organics product line uses liquified fruits and flowers. This also worried me about allergy proned clients. I only used this conditioner sparingly through the ends of the hair being careful not to overindulge at the roots where the scalp could be sensitive to it. It is a paraben free and sulfate free conditioner. It seems to be designed with "healthy hair" in mind.

Overall, it was working well with the clients' hair as an instant conditioner without any heat applied. So I went back to Harris Teeter to buy a few more at the clearance price, and they were all gone. Well, it's all good! At least, I got to try it!

KeraCare products keep changing ingredients!

KeraCare product line changed the formula of some of its shampoos a few years ago to make them sulfate-free. Many of the hairstylists began complaining about the new formula, so KeraCare re-entered the old formula back onto the market as the "classic" formula. Now, I realized that the original "sulfate-free" 1st Lather shampoo has changed ingredients since it was first introduced into the market. The pH is also different. Some bottles of the sulfate-free First Lather shampoos have a "6.5" pH and some bottles have a "4.5" pH.

I wonder what are the rules of changing the ingredients of products, but they still market the products as the same product?

For instance, I did an article on how Nexxus Humectress changed their ingredients over the years. Recently, I also noticed that Paul Mitchell Sculpting Foam eliminated an ingredient Lawsonia Inermis(Henna) Extract as well as changed their dispenser top for this foam.

I suppose the manufacturers do not want to pay extra money to re-package or to bring alert to minor ingredient changes, but major ingredient changes should be marked on the packaging as a courtesy to the hairstylists in case the ingredient change affect the results in their client's hair. At least, they will not have to be surprised.

Physicians don't expect their prescription drugs to change in midstream. Why should cosmetologists have the "switch-a-roo" done to them?

Product Review: KeraCare Cleansing Cream Sulfate Free

So far, I have found the KeraCare Sulfate Free moisturizing curl wash to be the absolute best "curly Cleansing Cream" for frizzy curls! As far as some of its ingredients, it has Neem Leaf extract which helps eliminate scalp bacteria. Shikakai proteins nourishes the hair. Amla extract plus Argan and Abyssinian oils add a nice shine.

Usually, three to four shampoos with this cleansing cream will eliminate all product buildup without dehydrating the hair. The KeraCare cleansing cream does enhance your natural curl pattern. It is a cleansing and moisturizing curl wash that does not require a separate rinse out conditioner. You can use a separate rinse out conditioner such as Mixed Chicks Deep Conditioner or Onesta Moisture Balancing Conditioner to seal in your curl hydration.

Then you are ready for your favorite leave-in conditioner or twisting gel!

Onesta: Free of Propylene Glycol, DEA, and more

Onesta product line is geared toward consumers that want to stay away from potential cancer causing ingredients.
Five cancer causing chemicals in beauty products have been identified at the website attached.
Onesta is free of parabens, sulfates, propylene glycol, DEA, synthetic colors/dyes, and more. According to another blog review, you have to use a lot of product to get a good shampooing. It is not concentrated and does not suds much. I have smelled the product, and it smells like paradise. More citrus or flowery; definitely not herbal.
This is a picture of some of Onesta's literature. I found the product line in Blooming Beauty Supply Store at Northlake Mall in Charlotte, NC. I have not tried the line yet, but their literature gave me food for thought. I do not think that this product is going to outperform Pureology or other leading brands for styling and finishing results, but if you are organic conscious and looking for more natural products, then it is worth looking into!

On a separate note, please remember that all product lines that are paraben-free do not have a long shelf life because parabens are preservatives . . . So make sure the product is fresh by calling the manufacturer especially if the product does not perform as well as to be expected.