Three step Natural hair updos

Natural hair styling by Benita Blocker

Step one:   Blow-dry the hair straight
Step two:  Use Mizani Moisture Stretch product to double strand twist individually and/or flat twisted
Step three: Create the updo.  Long hair - bun styling; Medium length hair - try modern french roll

Natural hair bun styling by Benita Blocker

From 'Fro to Flow: Thermal straightening

We just finished the blow dry service which delivered a big 'fro a.k.a. afro.

She did not want to lose her natural texture so I used the Mizani Thermasmooth Serum and Anti-Humidity Spritz along with Kayvel Pressing creme.  If her hair was more fine, then I would have skipped the Kayvel Pressing Creme.  Some people have mentioned that the Kayvel can cause hair to become heat trained so I would use caution depending on the hair texture and long term goals of the client.

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Healthy Hair by Benita Blocker

Conventional stove and marcel iron made it flow.  It does not have the movement of a relaxer or a smoothing treatment, but it showcases a relaxed look without worrying about losing one's original texture.

Wash Day Status: No Locs Lost

Believe it or not, my hair is dry in this picture.  I was trying to showcase my length without it being fully saturated in water.  There is no water in this straight loc look, but there is still some shrinkage. Oh well, it will have to do for now.

On a separate note, I have three locs in my problem area that I mentioned in a previous blog article that had thinned because the locs were too large to support the curl behavior and curl diameter of that area.  This is one of the first times that I realized how beneficial the small Sisterlocks that I had asked for originally would have been if my Sisterlocks were done in accordance with the Sisterlocks grid.

Before the wash - my loc styling still looked good right?  The Tropical Roots foam really holds my wet sets.  I love it!

 After my wash, I used the Mizani Supreme Oil Conditioner as a leave-in conditioner.  It is usually a rinse-out conditioner, but one of my natural clients started using it as a leave-in so I figured that I would try it too!  I had to work it into my locs, but it dried without a film.  I know that some people worry about "build-up" but I am ready to start treating my locs like natural loose hair.  This wash and go look is going to be my new "straight look" option.  I am also thinking about cornrowing my locs and getting crochet braids to give a new "non-dreadlock" look.  I am ready to have some more unrestricted fun!

Oh yeah, the one loc that I used the liquid beeswax on has been wonderful and well behaved.  I mentioned this in a previous article on this blog, but I will take an updated picture of that loc in another article coming soon.

And yes, all of my Sisterlocks are still holding on.  I believe that because the three thinner locs that I was worried about are surrounded by other locs that support them, they are going to be fine.  I am going to go into a hydration centered maintenance mode for about a month or so because I want to focus on health versus styling of my locs.

I plan to use my Bath and Body Works hair mist to keep this Mizani Conditioner activated in my locs.  I haven't lost any locs, and I hope that I do not, but I am keeping a close eye on the three locs in the back.  I also want to start about three more baby locs in that same area with the hair that pulled away.  By keeping that area hydrated, it will not fight me as I work to manipulate it into a new coils of hair.  Any new locs that I do get going will be two years and seven months behind the rest of my locs.  I will have to remember they were slow starts versus breakage.  I may or may not update on the progress of my problem area for months from now, but I will do my usual monthly check-in's for my hair as a whole.

Seven in One Hairstyling by Benita Blocker

Two strand twisted Mohawk updo Hairstyling by Benita Blocker

This extension-free natural hairstyling gives the client several hairstyling options:

1. French roll to the right
2. French roll to the left
3. Pompadour front with a bun in the back
4. Left side braid
5. Right side braid
6. Mohawk twist-out
7. Full twist-out

This hairstyle has flat twists on both sides and individual flat twists throughout the Mohawk area.  I can also style locs the same way.

To achieve this hairstyling on this particular client's natural hair, I blow dried her tresses first and then dry set using the Mizani Moisture Stretch and Mizani Perfect Curls.  She plans to forward me a few more pictures as she changes up the hairstyling.

******12/18/2014 Update  *********
My client decided to keep the updo in the back with a partial twistout in the front for her event!

Hair by Benita Blocker (final touches completed by the client herself)

Natural hair partnership!

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This is a Full Twist out from the same Dry set that I completed on her in the salon.  The client allowed the steam from her shower to expand her hair. Being natural does require some self-paced creativity.

Natural Hair Dry Set and Updo

Hair by Benita Blocker, 2014

So my client turned age 15, and she loves her natural hair.  She does her own hair about 100% of the time, but she had a special event where she needed a polished natural style in the form of an updo per her mom's request.

So after shampooing with conditioning shampoos, I skipped the conditioning phase and went for the blow dryer.  So YES! She was a full blow-out but no hot irons.  Her texture was moderately resistant so the blow dry phase took at least 40 minutes. Then I performed the dry set in the form of 2-strand flat twists.

If you remember, sometimes I have dry set my locs by using a setting agent on them from a completely dry stage.  So the only wetness on the hair is generated from the setting agents.  Dry sets cuts down on the drying time for natural hair.  For short hair:  40 minutes.  For medium hair: an hour.  Getting the back of the 2 strand twist cornrows dry is where the challenge is.  So your front is guaranteed to be perfect which is the area that most people focus on.

Because my client had a formal event on a Saturday, we shampooed, blow-dried, and dry set on a Friday.  She left out with cornrows to sleep overnight then we unloosened each one to deliver beautiful waves. I absolutely loved it completely down but because of the event and the formal dress that she was going to be wearing, an updo was a must.  I french braided the back up to the bottom of her ears, then I french rolled the rest.

It turned out gorgeous!  She was the second one that I used the dry set technique on and so far, it is a perfect score for both clients.  Great timing especially if the hair is a easy blow-out and quick drying time. Average price is $45 to $55 depending on how long the blow-dry takes. I actually used the Mizani Moisture Stretch and Mizani Perfect Curls cocktailed to achieve this look.

If the hair is too long or too resistant for a quick blow-dry, then I recommend trying a method that does not require blow-drying.  20 to 40 minutes blow-dry maximum.  If you have to "divide and conquer" in order to keep control of the hair, then that may be a sign that the hair is too resistant to dry set.

Discontinued Products: Gone but not Forgotten

"Unforgettable . . . that's what they are" in my "Nat King Cole" high pitched voice. If I could put my Applebaum logo on these discontinued products and sell them under my own umbrella, then I would.

I believe price points caused these products to be discontinued.  For example, the jar of luxury Pureology Nanoworks Shineluxe hair polish retailed for about $42 USD.  A little goes a long way.  The jar would last you six months to a year easy depending on how often a week you shampooed.  However, $42 USD for a styling aid for most people is considered a luxury indeed.

Pictured:  Pureology Nanoworks Shineluxe hair polish.  Weightless, but tamed the flyaways on dry hair as a final finish.

I am on my last jar of Pureology Nanoworks Shineluxe.  I am going to miss it.  I have a lead on another product that may deliver similar results, but nothing definite yet.

Other unforgettable products include Sebastian Cellophanes Semi-permanent color in Deep Brunette.  The gray coverage on the same day as the relaxer was absolutely phenomenal.  I still have not found any other color line that works the same way.  Even the Sebastian newer version is not as effective on gray coverage.

I am also on my last bottle of Mizani Cutting Solution as well as Mizani Butter Blend Microfusion Penetrating Conditioning Treatment.  The $12 USD retail price point of the Mizani Cutting Solution was a little steep for an "ethnic" line with the words "cutting" in the title, but it really did have some fantastic ingredients and was well worth the $12 USD as a leave-in conditioner.  I wonder if the parent company L'Oreal would even consider re-naming and re-packaging the formula under a "non-ethnic" product line.  I think it would sell better at that price point.

Also, the Mizani Butter Blend Microfusion Penetrating Conditioning Treatment is irreplaceable.  I believe that many hairstylists did not want to purchase two conditioners for a relaxer system.  So many people missed out on this "jewel" of a conditioner.  I am on my last bottle.  I use it as a part of the conditioning step for my Paul Mitchell relaxer system. I have not found a replacement yet.

I may add other products to this list if they disappear from being offered, and a replacement is no where to be found.  If anyone else finds replacements, then do not keep the "recommendations" all to yourself!

Review: KeraCare Overnight Moisturizing Treatment

First of all, let me tell you that my natural hair DIY "at home" clients are now buying two jars at a time of this KeraCare Overnight Moisturizing Treatment cream.

One of my clients even asked me how did that this product escape her product arsenal.  I told her that it is NOT under the KeraCare "Natural Textures" line.  It was introduced for relaxed hair.  She then responded "no wonder" she missed it.

Well, since I am selling this product at $15 a jar and two at a time, I started to re-examine why this product is working so well with natural hair?  Then I realized that the pH is 3.2.  It is acidic and is helping to seal down the cuticle.

Wow!  Apparently, if you roll  or Bantu knot your natural hair overnight using this Keracare treatment cream, you will wake up to a new head of hair!  (If your curl pattern is a Type 3 or Type 4a, then you get the picture of the process that I am trying to describe.)

Now, for my relaxed hair clients, they like this KeraCare cream better than the Mizani RoseH2O cream.  Why?  It does not have that lingering fragrance associated with the Mizani RoseH2O product.  The consistency of the two creams are about the same, but hands down, if you loved the Mizani RoseH2O cream, then you are going to be thrilled with the KeraCare overnight Moisture Treatment.

A little product goes a long way!

Product Review: Mizani Cutting Solution

Do you remember the "brilliance" of hair when the flat irons and all the moroccan oils were "the new hot trend?"  The hair had "crazy shine" and bounce.  Then diminishing returns started happening.  The silicones started drying out the hair, and the flat irons started frying out the hair.

Now, what if I told you that this Mizani Cutting Solution when used as a leave-in conditioner delivered that "exceptional" hair finish?  Well, I added this spray into my blow-dry services without any hair cutting because of the almond glycerides and  its moisture retention properties.  The final finish on everyone's hair no matter what the texture was absolutely awesome.  I am talking exceptional hair.  I was completely blown away.  It took my work to the next level of fabulous!

This cutting solution is a part of the Master's line.  I believe that they may be discontinuing it.  If they are discontinuing it, then it may be because of poor sales???  Honestly, most of us do not dream about "what our next cutting spray is going to be."  Rewetting the hair with water has always worked.  So I can imagine that no one wants to pay a lot of money for a cutting spray, but this one has a high concentration of glycerin and no propylene glycol.  I am in love with this spray as a leave-in moisturizer.

If it starts to have diminishing returns, then I will let you know, but for right now, this spray is the best thing since "sliced bread."

Product Review: Mizani Supreme Oil

The Mizani Supreme Oil bottle states "No Silicones, No Mineral Oil."  It has 8 natural oils.  It is not greasy, but probably too heavy for finer hair.

I decided to remove this oil treatment from my routine because it smokes too much when heat is applied.  I can put it on wet or dry hair, and it seems to create a smoke screen whenever using any type of iron.  It does not set off the smoke alarm, but it does cause a thick haze depending on the amount of oil that is used.

For instance, I had a "press and curl" client where I used more Supreme Oil than what I would with a relaxed client, and I had to open the salon door to clear the "fog" out.  There was no smell, and the fog disappeared into the breeze within five minutes, but it was odd.

Assuming that the product burns off which is probably what causes all the haze, it is not clear whether it is "frying" the hair.  I do not smell any burnt hair, but it does seem to interfere with the hair's ability to move freely.

This Supreme oil is probably best used as a hair dressing when no heat is required.  It is an attempt to be a "healthy" oil alternative, but in my opinion, it missed the mark for heat styling purposes.

The Press and Curl Regimen to beat the HEAT!

The Summer Heat is on, and the only "Afro Circus" that you want to see is probably in the latest Madagascar III movie! (Loved it!!! in 3D! :)

On a more serious note . . . Are you all natural and want a press and curl service that will beat the heat?

I have been tweaking this regimen for years! This one is the best one yet!!!!!

Tools needed: Kizure Pressing Comb, pressing pad (optional), paddle brush, Marcel curling iron and stove.

Products needed: KeraCare 1st Lather sulfate-free shampoo, Bee Mine Botanical Moisturizing Shampoo, Mizani Moistufuse conditioner, Chi Silkeratin17 treatment, Joico Detangling Leave-in, Pureology SuperSmooth Elixir, Kayvel Creme Press, and Kayvel Curling Wave.

Technique: 1) Shampoo with KeraCare 1st Lather Sulfate-free shampoo once or twice if hair is extremely oily from a hot oil treatment, etc. 2) Shampoo with Bee Mine Botanical Moisturizing Shampoo two or three times until hair feels soft. 3) Towel blot the hair and generously apply the Mizani Moistufuse conditioner through out the hair. Comb the Moistufuse conditioner through the hair. Spray the Chi Silkeratin17 fortifying treatment through the hair layering the treatment on top of the Moistufuse conditioner. Comb through and apply the Silkeratin17 everywhere that the comb is catching in the hair. As soon as you are completely detangled from the Chi and Mizani cocktail, then sit under the platform dryer for about 15 minutes. Not much longer because most of your work is already done . . . you detangled before going under the dryer remember? 4) Rinse the treatment out and apply your two leave-in conditioners for your blow-dry service. (Joico Leave-in detangler and Pureology Supersmooth Elixir) Comb through to distribute evenly. 5) Blowdry completely, start warming up the pressing comb, and then apply your Kayvel creme press. Distribute a nickel size amount emulsified in your hands trhoughout the hair, and that is all that you need. Comb the creme press to finish even distribution through the hair. 6) Test the pressing comb to make sure it is not too hot. Grab your pressing pad if you have one. Soft press the hair all over with pressing comb and pressing pad if your comb is starting to cool down on lengthy hair. The hair should be manageable by combing through without being bone straight. Warm up your marcel irons. 7) Comb the hair into a ponytail. If there are any extremely uneven ends, clip some of the hair ends off. Apply your a nickel size of Kayvel Curl wave emulsified in your hands throughout the hair. Comb through for even distribution 8)Test your marcel iron. Begin curling your hair and clipping the curls down until they cool down.

Then voila - your core press and curl is complete! If you need smoother edges, then decide if you need a temple pressing comb (small pressing comb) or just some smooth edge styling aids.

Results: Soft, straight hair without the grease! Very humidity resistant too!

Let me know how you like this technique and product selection!!!!

Tool Review: Mizani Hair Lacers

Well, I purchased these hair lacers several years ago. I used them to set clients with long locs. Because they are foam, I felt that they were not going to be healthy for relaxed hair.

The Mizani Hair Lacers come in a box of 40.

Photo credit: www.confessionsofaproductwhore.com showcasing CurlyNikki New York City Meetup held October 20, 2011. Model with Mizani Hair Lacers. The lacers are held with endpapers and roller pins.

Photo credit from www.ahairstory.wordpress.com showcasing CurlyNikki NYC Meetup October 20, 2011. Model showing off finished look from the Mizani Lacers Set.

Product Review: Mizani Conditioning Curl Wash

Mizani's True Textures for Natural Curls Cleansing Cream Conditioning Curl Wash was a disappointment; however, it does have its place in the curly hair world.

I found that had to use a lot of product in an attempt to cleanse my clients' curly hair. The product description states that it is a mild, low-lathering curl wash. If you are a "wash n' go" hair person, then this curl wash is perfect to maintain your moisture level. However, if you need to use a defining gel to wet twist your hair, then this curl wash leaves a little too much build up behind. The defining gel may not be able to cling and hold the twists as well.

Also, sometimes product buildup can reduce the shine ability of the hair. You will need a more clarifying shampoo to alternate with this Mizani conditioning curl wash. I still like the KeraCare Cleansing Cream better because it has more glycerin in it. The Mizani Conditioning Curl Wash has more propylene glycol in it. I have been trying to avoid products that contain heavy amounts of propylene glycol.

I had run out of my KeraCare Cleansing Cream and figured the Mizani curl wash was a great substitute. It served its purpose, but I think that it lacked the intense shine that I was looking for at the finish. It is amazing how one product can make all the difference in the world.

New Natural Textures products

There is a trend toward sporting more textured tresses. (i.e. Curls, twists, afros)

Mizani was one of the first to market their "natural textures" line. Now, KeraCare and Design Essentials have introduced their "natural textures" lines.

With natural hair, everyone has to embark on the journey of discovering their own product combination. Curl pattern, porosity, and overall finish is a personal choice.

KeraCare's Natural Textures line includes cleansing cream, butter cream, hair milk, Defining Custard, and more. The KeraCare online store has more information. http://avlon.com/KeraCare/natural_textures.asp

I have not tried the line yet; but I have the line in my salon for purchase.