Crochet Braids: New Tools Review

My new crochet braids tools:  1) Fusion hook (small latch hook) and 2) Hair Threader.  Those with ultra curly/kinky hair benefit from the thinner tools.  Those with shorter relaxed hair desiring crochet braids will also benefit from these thinner tools.

The popular latch hook pictured on the left seems too bulky to use on people with relaxed hair.  I used the Sisterlock tool on a prior crochet braid client, but I felt that I needed a closure latch on the Sisterlock hook tool.  So the Fusion hook tool is perfect because it is less bulky, and it is a latch hook tool.

The fusion (latch) hook can be purchased from Sally's Beauty Supply.

The bulk hair and braid hair options are expanding.  I have seen everything from Romance curls to Corkscrew curls.

Five Curl patterns Comparisons

I provide hair cutting services to a diverse clientele from Indian to Hispanic to White (hair type not shown here) to African American.  I have been taking the time to save some of the hair clippings  or hair left in the shampoo bowl to study and compare curl patterns.

Two Type 2 curl patterns are shown here.  I also have two Type 4 curl patterns shown.  I can see how a person with type 3 curl pattern could feel the need to relax their hair occasionally when compared to a Type 2 curl pattern.

Type 4 curl patterns must understand that there is no texturizer that will elongate their curl pattern into a type 2 nor type 3.  Most people with type 4 curl patterns are trained to relax their curl pattern to have a straighter look.  However, by looking at the type 4 curl pattern in comparison to the other patterns, it is clear to see that if relaxers are designed to seek after every curvature, it literally would be attacking the type 4 curl pattern viciously.  Even to "flat iron" type 4 hair seems that it would "press" the "curls" in versus straightening it out.  It is clear to see that locking type 4 curl patterns would be the healthiest, simpliest hair styling option, but many women are not ready to give up their "creamy crack."  They enjoy their straight edges because that is what they are accustomed despite the known toxicity of the chemical relaxers.

Women have to continue to evaluate their hair goals on a quarterly basis.  No one has to get relaxer services, but in order to "manage" certain hair types without locking it, the relaxer is the most trusted option.

Curl Patterns: Type 2, Type 3, and Type 4

Type 2 Curl patterns are considered "long" in Sisterlocks world.  Type 3 Curl pattern is considered "medium" in Sisterlocks world. Type 4 curl pattern is considered "short" in Sisterlocks world.

In my opinion, type 4 curl patterns are more prone to dryness and breakage, but many people view it as "strong" and "resistant."  When type 4 curl patterns are placed next to looser curl patterns, it is much more clear how vulnerable  type 4 hair can be.  Don't you agree?

Denman brushes are best for blow drying Type 4 curl patterns. Paddle brushes are  best for blow drying type 3 hair.  Round brushes are best for blow drying type 2 curl patterns.

I am always amazed at the variety of curl patterns out there.

  

Does Humidity Cause Frizz?

Humidity is water. The pH level of water is 7.0.  Our body and hair's pH is usually around 4.5 to 5.0.  The higher pH level of the water from the humidity can be enough to elevate the cuticle of the hair resulting in frizz if the cuticle is not sealed.

So how do you seal the cuticle?

If you are born with naturally straight hair (Type 1 hair), then  congratulations!, your cuticles are naturally sealed shut.  Your hair probably will not hold a curl without some extra hold spritz and a hot curling iron.  Humidity should not affect your hair at all unless you damage your cuticle by using a hair chemical on it such as hair bleach, hair lightener, permanent color or a permanent wave.  Mechanical tools can damage the cuticle as well if they are too hot.

So if the cuticle becomes damaged, condition it to repair, then seal the cuticle with either a semi-permanent color gloss or silicone based serums such as argan oil, etc.  Joico has a Humidity Blocker spray that you can spray generously throughout the hair as well without worrying about stiffness.

So if you are born with any curl to your hair (Type 3 and Type 4 hair especially), then curls are prone to frizz because with every turn, there is an opportunity for the cuticle to raise.

If you are embracing your curls as a hairstyle, then a "defining" gel  (hair product) can seal the hair strands and block the humidity from getting to the cuticle layer.

So back to the original question:  Does Humidity cause frizz?   Yes, if you have curly hair, chemically altered hair, or a damaged cuticle layer from heat styling.


How do  hair chemicals damage your cuticle layer?

If you permanently alter your hair with a color treatment, relaxer, curly perm, soft curl, etc, then yes, these hair chemicals swell the cuticle to get into the hair strand to alter it, and is rinsed out and the pH level is neutralized to calm the cuticle back down.  However, the cuticle layer will never shut completely back to its original state without some styling products or a sealant.  Want to test this statement?  Let your hair "air dry" without applying any product after completion of a hair chemical.  If it dries without any frizz, then your cuticle was not damaged, and you should personally inform me because I really would want to know what type of hair you have that defies the rules. (At least, Comment below.)

Okay, back to the discussion, now that you understand what causes frizz . . . you can make better choices on hair products, styling tools, and handling of your hair.

Black and white photo above was from blog.tawkify.com

2013 Texture Takeoff!

 Photos from Lucky Magazine, Februaury 2013 edition.

This picture was taken from one of my hair industry magazines.

A lot of Type 3b to Type 4a texture is being showcased everywhere.   How about ladies with type 4c, resistant hair?  I would love to see a broader spectrum of curl patterns or locks.

These women are beautiful, but I  have not seen my hair type yet in these fashion magazines.  Let us see how 2013 shapes up!

Coconut Oil: Causing Hair to Tangle?

Yes! . . . there have been reports that "EVCO" (Extra Virgin Coconut Oil) has caused some relaxed hair to tangle.   One of my clients can attest to this fact as well.  Also, as I look back, when I have used the EVCO as a pre-shampoo treatment, I sometimes found that my clients' hair would become less manageable when it was time to roller set it.  Of course, I contributed the hair's misbehavior to "relaxer touch-up" coming due.  Now,  reflecting back, the coconut oil that I thought was supposed to be a benefit was actually a culprit for tangles.

I found an online list of 122 uses for EVCO from everything from "cleaning agents" to lubricating musical instruments.  Apparently, the fatty acids from the Extra Virgin Coconut Oil can coat almost anything.  Notice that the Coconut Oil is solid most of the time?  Many people prefer to use it on their hair during the summer months when it is less likely to solidify in their hair.

But back to my personal experience with "heavy oil treatments," I have had clients come in with Coconut oil, Ojon oil, etc to pre-treat their hair before their hair appointment.  If your hair is natural (no relaxer), then more than likely, you will have "No Problem."  However, if you have a relaxed., type 4 hair,  the coconut oil may act like a protein causing overproteinizing (overfilling) of the hair strands making it more prone to tangle.

Some natural hair cleansing creams and natural hair conditioners can also become protein overkill for Type 4, relaxed hair.

If your hair begins to have a mind of its own and becomes unmanageable then you will have to clarify it to try to strip the extra protein out, neutralize it with a low pH conditioner, recondition with a liquid moisturizing conditioner (versus a cream based conditioner), and then seal with a smoothing conditioner.

Need some product suggestions?  Please see my article on the  "Reset Regimen for overproteinized hair."

Relaxer Comparisons: Type 3 hair versus Type 4 hair

The relaxer chart pictured was designed by hairstylist Benita Blocker based on her experience with relaxer services.

If you read straight down the column for Type 3 hair, then you will find that the relaxation process is safe and relatively painless. In addition, Type 3 hair can wait from 8 weeks to even six months between relaxer touch-ups.

If you read straight down the column for Type 4 hair, then you will find that the relaxation process is unpredictable, challenging, and has a high potential for scalp damage as some point with continued abuse. On top of all the potential challenges, type 4 hair typically need a touch-up every six weeks just to keep from breaking because of the extreme difference in the wiry new growth compared to the previously straightened hair.

Hopefully, this chart gives everyone the same perspective about hair loss issues amongst coarser and kinkier hair types.