White Perm Rod Wet Set on Relaxed hair

Hair by Benita Blocker, 2015

Vertical placement. White perm rods. Relaxed hair.

This relaxed hair blends right in with the Natural hair movement.

Does Humidity Cause Frizz?

Humidity is water. The pH level of water is 7.0.  Our body and hair's pH is usually around 4.5 to 5.0.  The higher pH level of the water from the humidity can be enough to elevate the cuticle of the hair resulting in frizz if the cuticle is not sealed.

So how do you seal the cuticle?

If you are born with naturally straight hair (Type 1 hair), then  congratulations!, your cuticles are naturally sealed shut.  Your hair probably will not hold a curl without some extra hold spritz and a hot curling iron.  Humidity should not affect your hair at all unless you damage your cuticle by using a hair chemical on it such as hair bleach, hair lightener, permanent color or a permanent wave.  Mechanical tools can damage the cuticle as well if they are too hot.

So if the cuticle becomes damaged, condition it to repair, then seal the cuticle with either a semi-permanent color gloss or silicone based serums such as argan oil, etc.  Joico has a Humidity Blocker spray that you can spray generously throughout the hair as well without worrying about stiffness.

So if you are born with any curl to your hair (Type 3 and Type 4 hair especially), then curls are prone to frizz because with every turn, there is an opportunity for the cuticle to raise.

If you are embracing your curls as a hairstyle, then a "defining" gel  (hair product) can seal the hair strands and block the humidity from getting to the cuticle layer.

So back to the original question:  Does Humidity cause frizz?   Yes, if you have curly hair, chemically altered hair, or a damaged cuticle layer from heat styling.


How do  hair chemicals damage your cuticle layer?

If you permanently alter your hair with a color treatment, relaxer, curly perm, soft curl, etc, then yes, these hair chemicals swell the cuticle to get into the hair strand to alter it, and is rinsed out and the pH level is neutralized to calm the cuticle back down.  However, the cuticle layer will never shut completely back to its original state without some styling products or a sealant.  Want to test this statement?  Let your hair "air dry" without applying any product after completion of a hair chemical.  If it dries without any frizz, then your cuticle was not damaged, and you should personally inform me because I really would want to know what type of hair you have that defies the rules. (At least, Comment below.)

Okay, back to the discussion, now that you understand what causes frizz . . . you can make better choices on hair products, styling tools, and handling of your hair.

Black and white photo above was from blog.tawkify.com

Nighttime Hair maintenance Using Headbands

I picked these "Ouchless Gentle fit" headbands to use at night. The first method is for long straight hair. It is called "Headband curls." I found this youtube tutorial by searching for "no heat curls." click here for headband curls video by CuteGirlsHairstyles

Pictured is the results of the headband curling method from the night before. I achieved beautiful S-shaped waves in my straight hair. I used the Joico Leave-in Detangler to mist my hair before spiral wrapping around the headband.
For those with relaxed hair, try a water based hairdressing instead of a mist, then spiral wrap around the headband.
The second nighttime method is for long curly hair. It is called the "Pineapple Method." click here for pineapple method video using a scrunchie The headband is better for those with thicker or kinkier hair that will not fit into the scrunchie.
The overall idea of the pineapple method is to pile all the curls on top of your head and hold them there overnight.

Perm Rods: From Straight to Curly!

So how many of these blue perm rods does it take to roll a full head of hair? (The answer is at the end of this article.)

I had to complete a "curly perm" or a "permanent wave" on an elderly client recently, and I realized that the blue perm rods deliver the best curl pattern for anyone who wants a head full of curls. Our main purpose for applying the permanent wave solution was because her naturally straight hair would not hold a roller set for more than a couple of days, and she was homebound. So we still roller wrapped her hair after the neutralizing of the perm solution, and her final styling was soft and curly.

As I was rinsing out the perm rods to store them again, I decided to count them. I counted 58 (fifty-eight) blue perm rods. So was your guess close?

Timing to roll equated to parting time plus end paper wrap and perm rod roll. So about 35 minutes to roll the whole head is reasonable if all other conditions are in your favor like no interruptions!

This service is not designed for those with naturally curly hair although many people interchange the terms "perm" and "relaxers." Perms and relaxers are too different chemicals that serve two different purposes. Although one could argue that "perm" means "permanent" but then the question to ask is "are you going for permanently straight or permanently curly?" Most hairstylists can read your mind on this one!

Quote: "Their hair is not that nappy"

I recently had a "mom" (parent) to call the salon for a price check on pressing children's hair. I shared my uniform thermal pricing, and the response was silence followed by "their hair is not that nappy . . ." I was a little speechless myself, but it was definitely the "quote" of the week for me. LOL!

In hindsight, despite the fact that the statement could be taken offensively by some of us with extremely overcurly hair ; it is almost a week later, and I am still chuckling over this statement.

Well, the Avlon picture in this article is supposed to represent Black women . . . My response to this picture is "their hair is not that nappy." Not one of those ladies pictured have really kinky, "Black" hair.

Avlon is the makers of KeraCare and Affirm product lines. It makes me wonder who their test models are. The "kinkier" sistas would feel more comfortable seeing ladies that have hair similar to their own. Historically, when it comes to purchasing hair products, ladies want to see women who look like them, but they need to have hair like them as well. Otherwise, "no sale."

So Avlon, please work on featuring more sistas with kinkier hair . . . Please?

Brainwashed on Bone Straight Hair?

I captured these images from my "Best of Soul Train" dvds. The commercial is for Ultra Sheen Permanent Creme Relaxer. The date is around 1975, and the lady's hair is not "bone straight." Also, anyone familiar with hair texture, can also see that this woman's natural curl pattern is not kinky. She is probably naturally a Type 3 curl pattern.

It's year 2011, and Black women have gotten more accustomed to "bone straight" hair even if it means sacrificing the health of the hair for the style. For the "healthy hair" hairstylists, the "bone straight" mentality has become a challenge because people are so used to the straightness achieved from the ionic flat irons. So Black women are either going completely curly or they want completely bone straight hair. What happened to the midway point? Healthy hairstylists are finding that clients do not want this midway point. Some hair stylists have decided to either make sure the hair gets relaxed really straight or possibly use the flat iron for final finishing.

The finished look from the round brush blow dry service used to be enough decades ago, but now, even the dominican hairstylists are finding people want straighter hair in these modern times.

Literally, I have seen Black women with "heat damaged hair" still go pay for a round brush and flat iron service just because they like the finished look. I cringe when I see this happening, but I have to respect others' businesses. Sometimes this damage is happening on a platform at a hair show. In my mind, I am watching heat damage compound, and I can not say a word. Eventually, after the hair becomes completely fried from the "inside out," it will break uncontrollably. Flat irons heat hair from the inside out versus curling irons heat outside in. Indirect heat versus direct heat. No matter which heat that you choose, you can NOT use heat everyday. Direct heat is safer, but too much heat from any type of iron too often will weaken the hair.

Let's talk about image for a second. The "Sleek" look does carry a certain amount of prestige. People are driven by social acceptance and fame. The more texture that is seen in your hair usually means that you are viewed as "unpolished" in some social circles.

The best advice that I can give is to stay focus on maintaining a healthy body image and completing your educational goals. Most people can control their body image/weight. A fit body image and accessories can play off most any hairdo. Have you seen the editorial covers of some of these major magazines? "Crazy, avant-garde" hair mixed with designer clothes and designer shoes seems to be acceptable!

Do you need direction on weight loss? Jennifer Hudson is on the cover of Self magazine. I believe it is the August edition. She looks great, and her food menu and exercises are very reasonable. You do not have to feel like you need a personal chef and a personal trainer. Everything that she is doing is practical and can be done on your own. I really loved this article.

Product Review: Naked by Essations Honey and Almond Conditioner

Naked by Essations Honey and Almond Moisture Whip Conditioner has been ecstasy this week for moisture conditioning. It feels soooo good as it is massaged into the hair. The clients are loving it. I brought it back with me from the Hair Show. The closest distributor is in Raleigh, NC area, but the salesperson said that he can make sure that my salon gets serviced.

So far the conditioner is definitely a "keeper." The shampoo is great too! I am still a Pureology fan for shampoo though. Also, I believe the Naked line is excellent for naturally curly hair.

September 17, 2011 Update: This Essations Naked conditioner actually has a lot of wheat protein in it. So if you are doing a separate protein treatment, then this conditioner will NOT serve as a moisturizing conditioner. This conditioner by itself should be enough protein and moisture balance without using a separate protein treatment. In a nutshell, if your hair is relaxed, then one should be careful about overusing this conditioner. It could be drying from the protein. Naturally curly hair is probably the best match for this conditioner. It still feels great going onto the hair and scalp . . .

Product Review: Sedal versus Sedal Co-creations

I did a product review on the Sedal line for curly hair a few months back, and I just completed a product review on the Ouidad line for curly hair. Guess what? The two lines have a "co-creation!" Pictured is two Sedal product lines for curly hair. The Sedal/Ouidad Co-creation conditioning treatment has healthier ingredients such as glycerin versus the regular Sedal line which has propylene glycol. I have written other articles about avoiding propylene glycol as much as possible. The "Sedal Co-creation" version is a little more expensive. It is about $4 more than regular Sedal conditioning treatment, but it is worth it if the ingredients are better. There are expiration dates on the jars. I still like the Sedal line. Please separate article on Sedal line for more information.

Product Line Review: Ouidad

The Ouidad product line is for curly hair. I bought this bottle of Botanical Boost spray from Sephora. My Mary Kay representative gave me samples of Clear and Gentle Essential Daily Shampoo, Curl Quencher conditioner, Moisture Lock, Volumizing Foam, and Climate Control Gel. All were from the Ouidad line. Her stylist texturizes her curls as well, and she uses this regimen.
Day one hair - I achieved great volume on the first day because I am used to having flat hair after a fresh start. Also, I like that I did not get any crystallization. My other curly gels usually leave a little film to my hair, but nothing that I can not deal with. I do have to admit that my hair was a little flat, but I decided to make it stand up. It was easier to make it stand up without the crystallization effect that I sometimes work around when using my other regimen. Sometimes the "crystallization-prone" gels have a little "stickiness" to them which prevent Day one volume. Please ignore my huge forehead. I will be playing with styling more on Day 2.


Based on the back of my head, my curl definition is about the same as the other products. It is not too heavy nor too oily. I will have to see how day 2 through day 5 goes. I am happy that I got to try it without buying the whole line. It is another expensive curl line, but the six piece combination that I used, I really liked. Reminder: My type 4c hair is texturized/texlaxed.

UPDATE: By the end of Day one my "Ouidad" hair had started to shrink too tightly. I also felt that it was a little dry to the touch. My usual maintenance of Mixed Chicks Leave-in did not want to co-exist as an attempt to moisturize. It just got real sticky on my hair. Needless to say, Day 2 was a fresh wash with my KeraCare Cleansing Cream, Kinky-Curly Knot Today leave-in, and KeraCare Defining Custard.

Curl Pattern Review: Which curl pattern are you?

Curly Hair Review:

Spring Roll/Curly? Many people with this wave pattern have Spanish/South American heritage. Type 2 curl pattern. It is more wavy than curly. Picture is from my.opera.com



Finger size/Curly? Many people with this curl pattern are Cuban, Dominican, and other cultures where hair is occasionally relaxed for control. Type 3c hair. The model attached looks to have two textures. Finger size curls in the front and pencil size curls in the back/nape area. Picture is from www.ebenenaturals.com

Pencil Size/Curly? Many people with this curl pattern have very mixed heritage. This curl pattern is borderline kinky, but easily can be worn as "wash n' go" hair. Type 4a hair. Picture is from www.hair-styles-secrets-revealed.com

Carpenter screw/Kinky Curly? This curl pattern is often referred to as a "Z" pattern. It is delicate in its natural state as well as when it is chemically treated. Type 4a hair. Picture is from www.ethnic-beauty-central.com


Type 4b hair; stay tuned for even more tightly coiled tresses!

Borrowed from digitalcurls.blogspot.com, Jenifer Lewis is pretty close to a type 4c pattern.



Wavy Hair Review: Body wave/S-shaped? Many people with this wave pattern come from India. Picture is from www.acannthus.blogspot.com


Deep wave/Rippled? Many people with this wave pattern have Native American Indian backgrounds.

Review: Sedal Obedientes Curls hair products

Sedal Obedient Curls Anti-Frizz hair products are perfect for all curly hair type 2 and 3 curl patterns. It is great for those with permanent waves as well. The shampoo and conditioner perks up the curls for fine and medium textures without weighing them down. The Sedal leave-in conditioner is good for Type 2 curl patterns. The Mixed Chicks Leave-in Conditioner is better for Type 3 curl patterns. Type 3 curl patterns often need the extra frizz control and can support a little more weight.

Where can you buy the Sedal line? Most spanish based stores such as "Compare Foods supermarket" and Mexican convenience stores. Sedal products typically cost around $8 to $11 for the conditioner. This is a very affordable curly hair product line that delivers great curly results!

Mixed Chicks Leave-in Conditioner is being carried in more and more beauty supply stores nationwide. Blooming Beauty Supply and Salon in the Northlake Mall carries the Mixed Chicks line.

Line of Demarcation: Variation in Texture

A line of demarcation means a boundary line between territories in short and simple terms. As this terminology relates to hair texture, when hair is well-conditioned, then the lines of demarcations show up. In this picture, how many lines or variations in texture do you see? Two lines of demarcation and three variations of texture? Then you are correct! There seems to be a curly base (Type 3), a wavy mid-point (Type 2), and straight ends (Type 1). The lines of demarcation are cutting points if the client desires to have less variation in texture. How would you get three variations of curl patterns down one strand of hair? If you start with a Type 4 overly curly head of hair, then texturize and straighten it with the ionic flat iron on multiple occasions, then you can end up with variations in texture.
In this picture, there is only one clear line of demarcation. This line separates the thinner, straighter area and the denser, curlier area.

Containing Curly Hair!

Water plus these three products are a great weightless combination for curly hair. Careful with the VO5 Conditioning Hairdressing -- a dab every other day is usually sufficient. You can use plenty of the Carefree Curl Instant Moisturizer with Glycerine and Protein, but use it right after the hair is wet. Use the L'oreal Smoothing/Glossing Cream in moderate quantity. Surprisingly, the VO5 gives frizz control without being sticky nor heavy even though it has mineral oil and petroleum in it.

I believe L'Oreal changed the packaging of the Smoothing/Glossing Cream. It now has Vive Pro on it.
My "curly hair" when it is completely saturated with water. (Barely towel-dried) (I layered Carefree Curl Instant Moisturizer followed by VO5 followed by L'oreal Smoothing Cream)
My "curly hair" after a few days without water on it! It swells! I learned not to be afraid of water. Periodically, during the day, you may have to mist with water to refresh!

My "curly hair" on day two with a Misting of water followed by plenty of the Carefree Curl Instant Moisturizer, a dab of VO5 Conditioning Hairdress, and some of the Loreal Smoothing/Glossing Cream. Layer the products! Do not Cocktail! These products still allow the hair to move and shake. The swelling is minimized. This look is a happy medium. The goal is to avoid soaken wet hair in the winter and avoid the frizzies of being dehydrated! This hair is dry to the touch . . . But not too big! Yeah!

It's a week and a half later without shampooing, and I still have movement! These three products are the "bomb!" Yes!

Yes! Texture is in! Lovin' it! (2010)

When to choose the Roller Set over the Blow-dry!

If you have extremely curly hair (i.e. like a Type 4c), then Roller set service is the healthiest option at all times. Why? The curlier the hair is naturally means that there is more opportunity for the cuticle to open and makes it easier to break.

Even if you relax this extremely curly hair straight, you have permanently altered the strand which means it is weaker than the original natural chemical free strand. So it's likelihood of breaking is still greater!

Relaxer services using a conditioning lye relaxer between 7 weeks and 6 months (for looser curl patterns) is ideal.

Blow-dry services can be choosen if 1) you are four or five weeks out from your last relaxer service and desire a straight look or 2) your natural curl pattern is a type 1, type 2, or type 3. (curly but not kinky).

If you are a double processed, relaxed and colored, then roller set service is the best service option unless you have a lot of new growth.

For those diehard straight styling clients, you have to maintain the moisture level in the hair to avoid breakage. It is hard for natural oils to run down curly-proned hair. So you are responsible for moisturizing the ends so that they do not break.

Save the "blow in the wind" styling for photo shoots, church, job interviews and other red carpet or black tie events . . .

Moisture product options: Oil sheen, light pommades, butters, natural oils.