Product Review: Summit Mend conditioner

I was excited to meet a retired beautician at my local nursing home (where I also work as a hairdresser). Why did she tell me that? I started asking all of these questions about "pressing and curling." She agreed with me that these pressing combs on the market right now are not as good of construction as the "old school" pressing combs. Thank God I still have my twenty year old ones. Please see my separate blog article on pressing combs.

She described how they use to deliver the most beautiful press and curls back in her day. I asked her so "which conditioner did you use?" (because I know that your final results are based on the results from the shampoo bowl.) All she remembered was the word "Men" and it looked like a relaxer jar. She remembered only one beauty supply that still carried it. I tell you I was googling "men conditioner" and could not get a hit on the right thing until I searched on "old school hair products." Then Voila! Within the pictures of products, the conditioner "MEND" came up. Oh my God, that is it! It has to be. She remembered the "Men" but not the "d" on the end of it. So once I knew what I was looking for, I narrowed my beauty supply store down to large, foreign owned stores who carried everything from Murrays Pomade to Ultra Sheen.

So yes, I found it! I was so excited that I decided to try it on my own hair. I have mostly relaxed hair, but I am about three months post relaxer. So my hair has two different needs. My relaxed ends did not absorb the Mend conditioner very well; however, my underprocessed hair and new growth seemed to like it well. I had to follow up with Bee Mine Beeloved moisture conditioner through my relaxed ends to balance them back out.

The Mend conditioner has a pleasant smell to have "animal protein" within its ingredient list. So for relaxed hair - this conditioner is probably a "no go." But for the naturally kinky head of hair, this conditioner will be a good start toward filling the hair with protein instantly without heat in preparation for the press and curl.

The product is very thick; it reminded me of a "Crisco based frosting." It needs to go on wet hair versus damp hair. Read the directions on the jar if all else fails. Smile.

So I have Kayvel Creme Press and Kayvel Curl Wave as well as the Mend conditioner plus the old beautician's instructions about how much product to use. I will be experimenting on my kinky head mannequin next, but by George, I think I got it!

Product Review: Bee Mine Moisture-only Conditioner

I have been experimenting a lot with the Bee Mine Product line. I like it so far, but I am still trying to see how everything really works. Their Luscious Cream Moisturizer delivers superb shine without weight. All the products smell delicious.

Pictured is the Bee-u-ti-ful Deep Conditioner. It is Bee Mine products' newest conditioner designed for delivering moisture to the hair without adding protein. Most conditioners seem to add some protein into its content so I was excited to get my hands on a deep conditioner that purposely was avoiding the protein. Why? Because when I do my pure protein treatment i.e. "Redken CAT" then I only want pure moisture to balance out the protein. This moisture conditioner seems to absorb nicely into my hair as you can see. I gave my hair the Redken CAT protein treatment first, then I rinsed it out. Next, I applied the Bee-u-ti-ful and sat under heat for about 15 minutes and then sat at room temperature another 15 minutes. (I was working on the computer and had not gotten to another stopping point or I would have rinsed the conditioner out sooner. Just being honest. Smile.) Also, please see my separate article on Redken CAT protein treatment. I used the new formula at this particular wash. It combed through nicely.

Overall, this was a nice "power pack!" Stay tuned for other articles on other Bee Mine products.

Fried versus Fro'ed as in Afro!

(Photo credit: pgbeautygroomingscience.com) Judging by the all over texture of this head of hair, I would say that this model has "fried" her hair. There is straight, long hair, and then there is short, frizzy hair all present on the same head.

I do prefer to have an afro in lieu of fried hair. The "fried hair" typically will not smooth out no matter how much treatment, leave-in conditioner or heat that is applied.

Fried hair can be caused by heat (probably in this case) or by chemical. If you over-relax the hair by excessive overlapping then it will erode the cuticle. If you add pure protein treatment to the hair on the same day as a relaxer then the already slightly opened cuticles will absorb too much protein and blow the cuticle wide open where it will not close up. Chemicals involving peroxide which includes lightener and haircolor can potentially overprocess hair as well. Peroxide is designed to elevate the hair cuticle to remove pigment or deposit color.

Chemicals are designed to manipulate hair cuticles to alter the internal hair shaft. You don't want to blow the cuticles wide open such that the hair breaks or one can not close the cuticle back down.

The only way to know if your hair is frizzy because it has texture in it (i.e. underprocessed) versus being overprocessed is by its ability to straighten and smooth out. If hair will not smooth out - then no more chemicals nor heat need to be applied. Try extra curl hairstyles until one can grow out the overprocessed areas. Otherwise, if the frizzy hair smooths down, and is re- activated by humidity or sweat, then it is underprocessed. Underprocessed hair is like a raw vegetable . . . you can continue cooking carefully making sure that you do not lose all of its firmness.

Redken CAT: Like a relaxer in a bottle

This "spray on protein treatment" is one of the best products on the market! It does has to be rinsed out! You should also follow it with a moisturizing treatment. But hands down, if you are past due for your relaxer and need your hair to look like it has been relaxed or "straighter looking," then this is your product!

Redken CAT should be treated like a pure protein; so do NOT use it every week and DO balance it with a moisturizing conditioner. It works like the old "Dudley DRC-28" and the "Aphogee treatment" except it does not stink because it does not have the animal protein in it; no dryer heat nor dryer time is needed; and the application is an instant spray on, comb through, rinse out. You can use dryer time for your moisturizing treatment that you would use behind it if you would like or use an instant moisturizing treatment like the Uans crema.

Redken CAT strengthens, reinforces, and polishes the hair strands. It is great as a pre-relaxer treatment about a week before the relaxer is due. This is a professional use product. If you are using this at home, then you should let your stylist know as to not duplicate the protein treatments.

Please use this product wisely and around once a month if using a lot of heat styling. Please do not use this product nor any other "pure protein" on the same day as a relaxer. The "freshly relaxed" hair would absorb too much protein too quickly and may feel great temporarily while wet, but too much protein and dry hair is a recipe for breakage.

Most stylist charge extra for this treatment, but consumers are getting their hands on a lot of professional only products without a license to practice hair. Just don't overuse and communicate with your stylist. Also, please search for my article on "Moisture and Protein Balance."

Proteins and Protein Treatments

I was selected as an Educator for the 2010 Mid-Winter Bronner Bros Hair Show. One of the questions that came up was about proteins.

There are vegetable protein, animal protein, hair/keratin protein, and wheat protein.

The animal protein treatments usually have an odor, but they typically work on ethnic hair quite well. Dudley's DRC-28 was classic for revitalizing hair; however, something changed with their product in 2009, and it stopped working for me. Their customer service was on the defense and would not listen. Another stylist in the Atlanta class witnessed the same thing-- poor customer service. But back to the topic at hand, animal protein treatment usually requires heat. Some are messy which means it is more time consuming.

Vegetable protein does not seem to absorb in to ethnic hair very well.

Keratin protein such as the JOICO K-Pak does not absorb into the ethnic hair as well either.

Now, the wheat protein is awesome for ALL HAIR TYPES! The Redken Extreme CAT Treatment works wonders immediately, and it does NOT smell. It works quickly without any heat. It still should be followed with a moisturizing conditioner.

In fact, all "pure protein" treatments should be followed by a moisturizing conditioner to soften the "strengh" that you add to the hair shaft. Good moisturizing conditioners include Mizani Moistufuse conditioner or Graham Webb's Back to Basics Coconut Mango.

Protein treatments should be received a week or two prior to the relaxer touch-up service to ensure the integrity of the hair. Pure protein treatments should not be used on the day of the relaxer because the cuticle is too vulnerable to open wide from the elevated pH state. Pure protein in that instable state will overpower the hair shaft and may cause more problems in weeks to come.

Protein treatment services every other month will ensure phenomenal long hair by repairing and polishing cuticle damage.

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