SisterLocks with Relaxed Ends

My SisterLocks consultant gave me a choice of locking my relaxed ends; however, I was taught by my Master SisterLocks Trainer that locking the relaxed ends was not an option. It is a fact that relaxed ends will never lock. So can you see the line of demarcation between the non-relaxed roots and the relaxed ends?

My length still consists of mostly relaxed hair that looks long and thin. I have had a lot of trouble keeping this relaxed hair from curling up into itself. My SisterLocks consultant called it "bubbling." During my first retightening session, she was able to work some of the "fat buds" or "knots" loose that had rolled up.

Pictured is a closer look at my SisterLocks. My roots are about 2 inches long and are not relaxed. Most of my hair length (about another 5 inches) is relaxed but in the SisterLocks locking pattern. I am struggling with the "locked" relaxed end. It seems hard to keep the relaxed ends from matting on itself. I have no idea if leaving the relaxed ends free would make the ends easier to control. Maybe? Maybe not?

On a separate note, the relaxed ends have different moisture needs, and I want to keep my length for styling purpose. However, in SisterLocks world, we are taught not to put anything on the SisterLocks. There is definitely a gap that I am trying to bridge. During my retightening sessions, a knot broke off of a lock, but it did not have any relaxer on it because it was a short lock around my front hairline. This leads me to believe that even my natural kinky curly hair needs more moisture to keep it from drying out and breaking.

The SisterLocks instructors told us that SisterLocks world is completely opposite of cosmetology world, but there is no way that every hair type should be treated the same in SisterLock World. Many of the SisterLocks sisters with kinky hair that I have met and read about all complain about not gaining length like some of the SisterLocks sisters with less kinky hair.

I personally am going to keep my hair moisturized from this point on. I believe that my curl pattern is too tight to unravel, but if moisturizing my hair interferes with my SisterLocks maturing properly, so be it! I will live and learn.

Male Chest Hair: What's your preference?

Chest hair on men came up during one of my conversations with a client. She apparently like many other ladies, can not stand chest hair on men.

Then you have some ladies that may be okay with male chest hair as long as it does not look like "taco bell beef" (i.e. kinky) One blogger literally had a "Taco Bell" picture attached to her article on how disgusting and appalled she was by kinky chest hair.

I have to admit that I never gave much thought to the whole chest hair question until now. I was always looking for men with a personality and an attractive face. I don't think chest hair would be a deal breaker for me. I think that it is something that I could get used to if my mate had chest hair. I actually think that both of these men in this article seem to be confident in their sexiness with their chest hair - be it kinky or not.

The male chest hair topic is just like other ladies' hair topics. If the hair that you show is not "wavy" "exotic-looking" or "tamed" then you are not considered socially acceptable.

So how stressed are men over their hair????? Do the estheticians remove just as much hair off of men as women? Any thoughts?

Hair from my last detangling session!

I saved this hair from my last detangling session on my very own head of hair. Hopefully, you can see why my Sisterlocks will probably "settle" or "lock" within six months or less! Knots, knots, knots.

So I am still anxiously awaiting my whole head of Sisterlock application. I am still about three weeks away from the special two day session! In the meantime, I have been allowing as many people who want to learn about SisterLocks to touch and feel my sample SisterLock bundle.

Their comments have tickled me. I had some to ask: how are they attached to the scalp? I proudly say "That's my hair; there is no extensions mixed in." Their return response:"Oh" followed by more questions of about the future maintenance of the Sisterlocks.

On a separate note, please feel free to check out the July 2012 SisterLock Homecoming event!

Curl Pattern Theory by Benita Blocker

After working with so many different hair textures and curl patterns and scalps, I have been trying to figure out how to simplify how to deal with hair. Yeah, I am going deep with this article. It is all just my theory from my brain. I did not read what I am about to say anywhere. It is just my conclusions based on my observations from my practice, but here it is . . .
Pictured is curling ribbon. I purposely cut each piece to be equal in length.

Next picture: I ran a pair of scissors down one of the pieces of ribbon repeatedly. Probably about four or five times. Each time I ran that scissor edge down that ribbon, the ribbon got curlier and curlier. As you can see the same length ribbon shrink about 75% in length? Hard to believe that both pieces of ribbon are the same length. Right? Doesn't look like the same length when one ribbon is curled all up. Right?

So you are probably guessing how this ribbon is relative to a hair strand. Well, you are looking at Type 1 straight hair to a Type 4 kinky, extremely curly hair in the form of a ribbon.

My theory is that as the hair grows out of the scalp, some of our hair follicle roots are closer to the surface of the scalp, and as they come out the edge of the follicle is acting like a scissor blade causing it to curl as it grows out.

For those with follicles farther away from the scalp surface, the hair emerges less curly and more straight.

Those whose roots are closer to the scalp (i.e. kinky curly) are probably more sensitive to relaxers. Burning can come very quickly. Scalp damage and thinning from the relaxers can also be more likely because the scalp is being exposed to relaxer touchups more often per year than someone with less kinky curly hair. Plus the root of the follicle is closer to the scalp surface making the root more vulnerable to intense damage from the relaxers.

If the hair strand is coarse and kinky curly then stronger relaxer strengths are being used to soften the strand and smooth it out. The scalp exposure is greater because the roots are curling immediately out of the scalp.

Looser curl patterns grow away from the scalp with a wave or sometimes little kinky curly, but it does not curl back on itself.

Hair that curls back on itself is usually considered a z pattern or a 4c curl pattern.

Over the decades, I really do not think that the relaxer manufacturers have had this curl pattern in mind. With recent trends of women going naturally, kinky curly, they have been forced to recognize the intensity of curl patterns that exist out there. With this said, I wished they would make more relaxer instructional videos showing speed relaxer touch-up service on ultra- kinky hair.

Some stylists prefer using the rattail comb for relaxer touchup application for kinky curly hair. I had not picked up this habit because I thought that it looked a little "ghetto." However, I may have to really re-examine whether the rattail comb can give more control and speed for those with curlier textures.

In the meantime, I still love using the sprushes.

I know that this article is very scary and discouraging, but sometimes the truth is not always pretty. I am saddened by this article because I prefer to give you a solution with any potential problem. Unfortunately, I do not have any easy answers.

Am I saying that sisters with kinky-curly hair need to discontinue relaxers if they want to keep their hair on their head? I do not know. What I do know is that extremely kinky curly hair in its natural state is generally not considered "corporate" or European enough for most professional office jobs.

What I also know is that truly relaxing extremely kinky-curly hair is forcing that hair 180 degrees in the opposite direction where looser curl patterns are not so far away from being straight to begin with.

Is the answer full sew-ins? or protective styling (i.e. wigs) for the kinky curly professional woman? I really do not know. Everyone has to answer that question for themselves.

Would you use this brush on Kinky hair?

At first glance, you probably are thinking this brush is not for kinky curly hair. It looks like a porcupine. Right? Well, I have started using more boar bristle and mixed bristle flat and round brushes on kinky hair to smooth and straighten it during my blowdrying. Guess what? It works better than the Denman brush! The vinyl bristle hold more heat and the boar bristles help with giving more tension as you gently work the curly hair straight. The boar bristles help distribute the hair's oil, moisture, and shine serums. With this particular brush, I can crush it with my hands without any pain or sticking.

CAUTION: 1) Test the brush with your hands first to determine the roughness or Softness of the brush. If the brush feels like you are going take the skin off your hand, then no -- do not use on kinky curly hair.

2)If the brush is soft enough to use as the one pictured below, then blow dry slowly with an ionic blowdryer. Careful not to use too much tension too quickly. You really need to be able to see what you are doing. Keep straight partings as you go slowly and gently through each section of damp hair.

3) For relaxed hair, get about 50% to 70% of the water out of the hair either by towel blotting and sitting under the platform dryer for about five minutes or rough dry it with the handheld blow dryer and no attachments.

4) Soaking wet relaxed hair, a brush, and a blow dryer is a recipe for disaster. Please detangle and rough dry the hair first from the roots to the ends.

Tool Review: Expandable Ponytailer

A client turned me onto the Scunci Expandable Ponytailer. It is one of the best hair accessories on Earth! It is lightweight plastic with smooth teeth for gripping hair. It is perfect for any size ponytail because the tool expands and contracts into a little, small bun. By the pictures on the package, you can see a few obvious ways of using the expandable ponytailer.

So you have kinky hair? Have no fear! It is a miracle tool for you too! The smooth teeth in this tool does grip and hold nicely into overcurly hair. You can close it as tightly or as loosely as your hair will allow. It gives a nice bun look. These expandable ponytailers come in two sizes. Pictured are the small sizes that come two in a pack. The large expandable ponytailer is a one piece per pack. I purchased this hair accessory from CVS pharmacy. I believe that you can find them in grocery stores, Walmart, Target, and other drugstores as well.

They are really a blessing for a last minute hair fix as you can see that I have a black one in the back of my head. Excuse my "nappy roots!" Can you believe it has only been 3 and a half weeks since my last relaxer touch-up, and I still have excessive new growth. Anyway, the tool is not too heavy weight-wise nor does it have any sharp edges to it. I would stick to colors that are the closest match to your haircolor. Notice I have a Black expandable ponytailer to match my black hair.

Wondering about removal? They grab and release the hair without pulling the hair. Easy on; Easy off! You will love them!

A Closer Look at Type 4c kinky curly hair

Okay. What are your first thoughts about this picture? Wow? nappy? Wow? Definitely type 4c? Curlier than yours? Did you notice that the hand is holding on to at least an inch of hair? Hair can coil/curl up so tightly that you can not find the beginning of it? Can you find the ends of some of the strands? Ignore the grey hair. Ignore some of the longer texturized lengths. Just concentrating on the natural base hair at the roots. Do you find beauty in it? or does it shock you? Does it look like normal hair? Is it socially acceptable hair? Does it represent "Black hair?" These questions raise more questions. Should this hair be colored or relaxed? Do the makers of relaxers even have this hair type in mind when the directions say "put the relaxer on and rinse it out in 15 minutes?" Can you imagine a relaxer touchup service that is past due? Trying to part the hair to get to the roots to apply relaxer product could be tough then add a time limit? Does this hair type represent a high percentage of African American women? Why do all the relaxer classes and relaxer demonstrations always use women with much looser curl patterns to sell their product? Would a stylist aim for "Super Strength" relaxer or "mild" relaxer strength? What do you think? If you go for "Super," relaxer is undoubtedly going to be in contact with the scalp for a extended period of time. That is not going to be healthy. But will the mild strength be strong enough to keep it from reverting? It depends on the relaxer brand, of course. So you are probably thinking to try "regular strength" relaxer or just remain natural? Okay, if you remain natural, combing this type of hair while dry is almost impossible giving the tightness of the coil without popping it or breaking it. The only chance of combing this type of hair with less breakage is after it is well conditioned and detangled in the wet phase. You have to partition it off and plait it down until you can blow-dry it a section at a time. This is high maintenance hair. I do not recommend permanent nor demi-permanent color on this hairtype at all. Not even to cover the grey. This hair type is vulnerable in its naturally, tightly curled state. It will be even more vulnerable after a chemical is added. Relaxer plus roller set service is about the only option to maintain a corporate professional look. Sisterlocks or other natural lock styling is also an option. I am hoping that the relaxer manufacturers will re-examine how they make relaxers. How do you keep relaxer off the scalp with a curl pattern like this? This head of hair represents a lot of struggling Black women who love their hair but feel like they have been dumped into a corner with limited to no options. With hair this tightly coiled, the words "tenderheaded" and "sensitive scalp" probably go together. If you are seeking out a routine for control without breakage, please stay posted. I will add to this article as I finalize the steps, products, and techniques that are in existence today. Be patient. You are not misunderstood.

9/4/2011 Update: The True Indulgence relaxer regular strength has met my requirements of being sodium hydroxide, little to no irritation, leaves the integrity of hair in tact and delivers reasonable straightness, shine and softness. My search is over. Please see my True Indulgence relaxer review.

12/02/2012 Update: New picture above. I really recommend Sisterlocks for this type of hair. Straightening by heat or by chemicals is just too aggressive long term for this particular curl pattern to maintain solid length.  Although, I am working on a unique relaxer touch-up technique, but I have not perfected yet. Stay tuned!

May 2013 update: After two years of searching, experimenting, trying to create a new technique, I finally and unfortunately concluded the microlocks formed by comb twisting is the best way to manage this hair type.  The scalp gets too much contact with relaxers whether you are using a mild or a regular strength. Over the years or decades, the damage will appear.  The scalp may begin to scar.  I have also found that interlocking techniques such as Sisterlocks do not grab the new hair up into the existing lock like comb twisting does. I have written a few articles on tips for healthy, stylish locks for May 2013. Please see those articles. For those who want straight hair, I still suggest locking the hair, but make a custom fit stocking cap straight hair wig to wear over the locks. I have an article on that too.

I am soooo sorry that in my two year search for a better solution to straight hair for this hairtype, I found no healthy solution, but I did find a stylish solution that works with the hairtype, not against it.  My search is truly over as far as relaxers are concerned on this curl pattern and hair texture.

The Best Detangler for all natural hair types!

Type 4c hair? No worries! Mixed Chicks deep conditioner softens all healthy hair types! So if you are naturally curly and not too "heat trained" then this conditioner works very quickly to detangle without any heat. 30 seconds to 5 minutes and rinse!
Mixed Chicks Deep conditioner works great on hair with tightly closed cuticles, and it will not weigh it down. On hair where the cuticle is eroded from heat damage, I have found this conditioner to not absorb into the hair. However, once the damaged hair has begun to heal and the natural curl pattern starts to return, then this conditioner will absorb and work fine. The use of "organic" coconut oil that is bought from a "Organic Specialty" type store is recommended as a pre-shampoo treatment if you think that your hair is heat damaged. Note: Organic Root Stimulant product line has a "coconut oil" blend, but this is not the same as a more "pure organic coconut oil." Also, many other product lines are adding coconut oil to their ingredients.

Organic specialty stores include places like The Vitamin Shoppe, Earthfare, Healthy Home Market, Trader Joes, and Whole Foods stores. Please search for my separate article on coconut oil.

Looking for Mixed Chicks Deep Conditioner? Beauty supply stores nationwide are starting to carry it or just purchase online from the Mixed Chicks website.

Paul Mitchell Retexturizing/Relaxer System

I have been getting phenomenal results with all of my clients - both African American and Caucasian by using the Pureology line. I also received great feedback from hairstylists and clients too on both the previous Paul Mitchell relaxer line as well as Farouk's Deep Brilliance Relaxer lines.

It had me thinking . . . if the ethnic product lines do not have it right when it comes to shampoos and conditioners, then why should I believe that they have it right with relaxers?

Paul Mitchell just reformulated their relaxer system. It used to be Regular or Super only. Now, they have Mild, Regular, and Super.

I have a highly sensitive scalp but I was ready to try something new. So I went for Super strength. To my surprise, mininal scalp irritation and I did not base any part of my head. I was bold, but I needed to see what it would do. My ears were immediately sensitive to the relaxer. I will have to base those first next time.

Also, I only did the sideburns/corners, but it did not overprocess nor cause any immediate sensitivity to my scalp.

I liked it. I must remind you that I have Type 4C kinky hair. I am definitely ready
to offer the Paul Mitchell line as a sensitive scalp option to my clients.

Pravanna Keratin Fusion Texture Control

So you are interested in the Pravanna Keratin Fusion Texture Control System?

According to the instructions, it is NOT compatible with relaxed hair. It is more compatible with thio based traditional perms. But ideally, someone with absolutely NO chemicals in their hair is the best candidate.

If a flat iron is used, then the process is definitely permanent and touchups should not be less than 3 months a part or at least a solid one inch and a half of new growth.

If processed at room temperature on wavy hair for curl reduction, it is more temporary.

If you have "kinky hair," then it probably will be a waste of time and money unless you are going for the permanent flat ironing option, but I am certain that by 3 months time, you will be begging for a what seems like a past-due touch-up.

Again, for kinky hair -- I recommend staying natural or considering the Paul Mitchell retexturizing/relaxing system for straightening.

Believe it or not, I am learning that the ethnic product lines often times are focussed on the the styling finish versus the health of the hair. Also, 99% of the time, the demo models do not have truly kinky hair. I am uncertain if the ethnic product lines really know how to deal with kinky hair and keeping it healthy.