Cosmoprof Carries Expired Paul Mitchell Relaxers

 Cosmoprof is a national beauty supplier to the professional licensed cosmetologists and other licensed beauty professionals.  They are the exclusive supplier for the Paul Mitchell relaxers in my territory.

I went to purchase a Paul Mitchell relaxer today, and I literally found that most of the relaxers were expired.  I learned a few months back how to read the Paul Mitchell batch codes.  I also had to return expired relaxer back to the store a few months back.  I have called the Cosmoprof toll-free number twice since then in order to get the Cosmoprof headquarters to eliminate expired chemicals from all of their stores.  I have not seen any progress.

I am hoping that no one else buys the expired Paul Mitchell relaxers. On a separate note, Paul Mitchell headquarters said that they discontinued making mild and super strengths, yet Cosmoprof still keeps the expired mild and super strengths stocked on their shelves.

I assume that the Cosmoprof warehouse keeps shipping expired products into its stores to replenish their ordering counts. I am still waiting to hear from Cosmoprof headquarters with an update on removing expired Paul Mitchell relaxers from all their stores and their warehouses.

Anyone purchasing the Paul Mitchell relaxers from Cosmoprof should call Paul Mitchell headquarters to confirm the freshness of the relaxer.  If the batch code starts with a "9" then it means the relaxer was manufactured in 2009 which makes it approaching five years old.  Our clients deserve fresh products!

Expired shampoo is one thing, but expired chemicals cause huge liability issues.

Relaxers: Curl Elongation Percentages

I received this chart from one of my continuing education classes. It shows curl reduction or curl elongation from 0% to 100%. Typically, if a client is receiving a relaxer service, then I shoot for 75 to 85% curl reduction. Some hairstylists shoot for 95 to 100%. If a client asks me for a texturizer, then I shoot for 50% curl reduction. Where I run into a challenge is when a client tells me to texturize, but in reality, she really wants to achieve 75 to 85% in curl reduction. Obviously, as an end result we are not on the same page if she is used to hairstylists giving her 100% bone straight hair, and I am delivering 50% texturized hair which was what she had asked for by my own definition. So now, I prefer to ask clients in curl reduction percentages "What are they trying to achieve? 50% or 85% or 100% curl reduction?" That way, we are both on the same page. Of course, 100% curl reduction can be problematic for the hair long term, but that is a whole other story.

A Good Hairstylist must look, smell, talk, listen, feel and think!

I had a client come in for a relaxer service. I felt that I could smell "Sulfur 8 hairdressing" in her hair so I asked the client "are you using any sulfur based products?" She said "NO." I then reworded my question. "Have you ever used Sulfur 8 hairdressing before?" Then the client said "yes, about six days ago." So then I had to explain how Sulfur based products and relaxer services do not go well together. I declined her the relaxer service, and we had to shampoo and press out the roots. She still left with a great hairstyle and scheduled for another week for a relaxer service.
This was a perfect example where hairstylists need to know their "product smells," use their common sense, talk and listen to the client before peforming any chemical service.
Another example where hairstylist need to be cautious is with "permanent haircoloring." The clients sometimes think that because they "re-colored" their hair back to its original "dark" color that it is not color-treated. Once hair has been permanently altered by lightener or permanent haircolor, it is still considered "color-treated" hair no matter what rinse you put on top of it. A mild relaxer strength is the only strength of relaxer recommended for color-treated hair. Sometimes a hairstylist has to feel for excessive dryness in the hair ends in order to get a feel for whether the client has been experimenting with hair color. Again, using your sense of feel comes in handy.
Also, if the client is over age 40, and you do not see not one single strand of gray hair, then you can safely assume they are coloring or rinsing their hair. If it does not feel dry to touch then it may be a semi-permanent color, but if you feel any roughness, then it is probably a demi-permanent or a permanent color or a henna.
Henna and relaxers are non-compatible. I was told there are some body art grade hennas that are safe to use with a relaxer, but I would not risk it!

November 2012 update:  I just had a new client to come in wanting her sideburn areas relaxed because they were too frizzy.  I explained to her that frizz could come from damage to the hair.  If that is the case, relaxing damaged hair is not going to resolve the frizz.  We opted to cut the sideburn areas down without the chemical processing.  I also introduced her to the Silk Elements edging gel.  Her loose curl pattern molded down nicely.  The haircut was the perfect solution.  It can still be relaxed at a later date if she so chooses.  She is trying to stick with the "press and curl" procedure for her entire head.  If I was really focussed on making the money off of the relaxer service, then I would have relaxed her sideburns, and then I may have still cut it down.  However, for me, I know that relaxers can be more damaging to the scalp, and I felt that she already had some reservations about full relaxer services.  So I decided that the extra revenues that I could earn from a relaxer service was not necessarily the best solution to the frizziness that the client was wanting to eliminate.  The client really appreciated me giving her my professional opinion as well as presenting her with reasonable options and giving her time during our consultation to make an informed decision as to her next step. Mission accomplished.

Gray Hair: Relax or Color First?

Typically, the rule for highlighting hair is relax first then two weeks later, receive the creative color service. However, for gray hair, a client may find haircoloring is needed once a month to maintain grey coverage. Clients that are receiving color services every three or four weeks, will typically receive two color services before each relaxer service. For example: Week 3 and Week 6 may be color services and Week 8 may be a mild relaxer service. So the rule of relaxing before coloring does not apply when the client is fighting white/gray/grey hair coverage.

So what hair rules do apply or do remain the same for this situation? Use only "MILD" relaxers such as Fiberguard Affirm Mild or Mizani Mild. Even if the client thinks that they need something stronger, do not go past a mild strength. Relaxer lines such as Design Essentials and Straight Request do not offer mild strength relaxers. So be cautious of clients who color their hair at home, if you suspect haircolor, then reach for a mild relaxer and make sure that the hair's integrity is strong enough.

Design Essentials fail to properly label their relaxer tubs

Back in October 2011 timeframe, I introduced the new and improved Design Essentials regular relaxer with shea butter and olive oil. Take a good look at the old packaging on the left and the new packaging on the right.

Recently, I purchased another full container of Design Essentials regular relaxer. I was floored. "No they didn't" just sell me a tub with old labeling and put a sticker with "New and Improved" on it? So let us check the ingredients.

As you can see, there is no Olive or Shea butter listed in the ingredients list. So Design Essentials used old packaging to put their new relaxer formula, but they did not bother to update the ingredients' portion.

Pictured is what the ingredients' label should be. This picture was taken of the tub with the new labeling. The ingredients may look a little blurry, but you can see "Olive Fruit" oil and Shea Butter listed. Design Essentials is a ethnic line sold nationally across the United States and probably abroad. Failure to update the ingredients label with an updated sticker to match the "new and improved" sticker is just outright unprofessional in my opinion. In addition, this relaxer has caused some shedding issues with a few Type 4 curl pattern clients. Type 3 curl patterns grow out and away from the scalp and seem to do well with this relaxer. So I am debating on discontinuing all Design Essentials relaxers for Type 4 curl patterns. I have been using the Design Essentials Stimulations conditioner to correct any shedding issues about a week or two after the relaxer touch-ups for the type 4 curl patterns. This issue has me concerned because the relaxer is quite tolerable (i.e. no burning.) However, no one wants any scalp damage. Type 4 new growth is very much concentrated and coiled at the scalp. With Design Essentials trying to "save money" on packaging, it makes you wonder how are the relaxer sales going with such a push for African American women to wear their natural hair?

DVD Review: Paul Mitchell Texture

I have so much to say that I do not know where to begin. Okay. First of all, the Black female demonstration model has closer to Type 3 curl pattern by my visual definition. Now remember all the articles that I have written in the past couple of months? Type 3 curl pattern can withstand more abuse than Type 4 curl pattern. So with that said, let me tell you, this Black model received the Paul Mitchell Regular relaxer along with the PM Shines demi-permanent color service followed by a round-brush blow-dry service followed by a Paul Mitchell flat iron service all in one salon visit. Hello! Relaxer plus "color with peroxide" plus aggressive blowdry plus flat iron . . . . now, you know . . . the model's hair looks great on this advertisement, but the styling team was going for style more than healthy hair.

If this model had type 4 curl pattern, her hair would not have had that much body. Also, the hair would be shedding and breaking from intensity of the chemicals and heat. Please see my other article on demi-permanent color rules for type 4 curl patterns.

Other DVD details include: PM Shines is a demi-permanent color that has to be mixed. Also, the round brush that was used was aluminum one similar to the one pictured in this article. They used Paul Mitchell Extra Strong leave-in treatment and "Super Sculpt" styling lotion aid in the round brush blow-dry. The handheld dryer and flat iron were both Paul Mitchell ProTools.

I have watched this DVD many times over the years, and it is only recently with my new vision that I really see how Black hairstylists are being mislead.

Paul Mitchell is a well respected name for professional haircare. It is scary to realize that the steps to create beautiful Black hair for one Black woman may be detrimental to the next Black woman. Good Hairstylists just want to do well. How do you filter through the good and the bad? Smile. Follow my blog. Smile.

My opinion of this DVD on Paul Mitchell Texture: Get this DVD just to check it out for yourself - I do not agree with everything in this DVD - but there is always some good information along with the bad in the "bigger picture." Happy New Year!

Relaxer application: Pre-protect or not?

Most Relaxer systems have a "pre-protect" lotion to apply to the previously relaxed ends of the hair strands. Pictured here are the "Protecto" by Affirm and the "Restore" by Design Essentials. Fiberguard Affirm has a "Preservo" pre-protect lotion.

Almost all of the pre-protect lotion/creams are "wet" to the feel. They are designed to fill in the hair shaft, even out porosity, and protect the ends from any relaxer getting in the wrong place. According to the educators in the relaxer classes, this is a necessary step. However, after review of a few youtube videos and playing back in my memory banks a few distinguished classroom settings on relaxer application, I now question if the "pre-protect" step slows the relaxer application time down for some hair types. (i.e. slows the stylist's speed down during the relaxer application step)

Sometimes the hair ends start to stick together after applying the pre-protect lotion. The hair wet by the pre-protect lotion can be harder to part; therefore slowing the stylist application time down/slowing her speed down. However, I know the educators are their to help sell all components of the product line.

According to one youtube video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=aCXnMxKNJlY&NR=1
She recommended "two minutes application time" per quadrant. (being four quadrants) The stylist based the scalp, but she did NOT use any pre-protect lotion. The model's hair seemed to be easy to part through. The hair ends did not stick together. I going to assume the model was a type 3 curl pattern. Nonetheless, the relaxer application seemed to be "on point."

I will also say that in part 2 of this particular stylist video instruction which I am not going to attach to this blog, I did NOT agree with blowdry, flat iron, and haircut of the second portion of the video. I felt the blowdry was too aggressive since she was focussed on avoiding uneven processing. I also felt that a roller set would have been more appropriate than flat ironing. This is just my opinion.

Sometimes you have to absorb what you need to know and let the other things that are not applicable to you "go out the other ear."

This article is food for thought. If the client has detangled, manageable hair, then I suggest not to wet it down with "pre-protect" lotion, but DO not be sloppy with your new growth application. This should increase the hairstylist's relaxer application speed. Goal: 2 minutes per quadrant avoiding getting too much product on the scalp.

Also, everyone should keep their ends trimmed to avoid split ends and to avoid the hair ends catching on themselves.

Hair Tool Review: The Sprush

Officially, a Sprush is a cross between a spatula and a tint brush. I have been using sprushes for years to perform relaxer touch-ups. They can be used for haircolor application as well, but I prefer a regular tint brush for color services.

Recently, I added the new "Optimum" sprush to my collection. It is the center sprush in the picture. Do you notice that the surface of this special sprush is textured with ridges? The rest of the sprushes in the picture all have smooth spatula surfaces. I like the new textured sprush because I can pick up heavier amounts of relaxer and apply to new growth without the whole glob falling into one place. The textured sprush seems to hold the relaxer in place on the sprush until I am ready for it. This feature saves a few application strokes.

The company that makes this tool is called Sprush.

Hair Growth Review: Five Months Timeframe

It's September 2011. Eight months without using a ionic flat iron. (See article on flat iron free pledge) Five sodium hydroxide relaxer attempts where four attempts only texturized my type 4c curl pattern. My final styling was completed with stove and marcel irons and the True Indulgence relaxer system. (Please see separate article.) I still have a little wave in my hair. On a separate note, I think that I have 3 different hair textures in my head. Below the occipital bone is probably a type 4a. Above the occipital bone into the crown is probably a type 4c. Let me clarify that my occipital bone sits low. Therefore I have a lot of type 4c hair. My front hair is probably a type 4b. I have had about five trims trying to keep some shape. I mainly layered in the back so I have been cutting away length there.
This picture is from April 2011. Big difference right? I had started to eliminate all the ends that had been flat iron damaged. Apparently, the curlier your hair; the more flat iron passes you take trying to get the hair straight. I figured out that I was losing the battle; so no more flat irons for me. So I started the "protective styling." (i.e. wigs and half wigs)
Then in June 2011, I realized the wigs were too heavy. The wigs were cute but they started traumatizing my scalp. Please my article on wig weight. The synthetic wigs are heavier than the human hair wigs, but they all were too heavy for my head shape. I still was growing lengthwise, but who needs thin hair? I intentionally left my hairline out to avoid damage from the traction of the wig. Can you imagine me thinning my hairline out?
So by July 2011, I was recovering from the wigs and protective styling. My front had thickened back up. I had started wearing my natural styling. The natural styling was a "bear" to deal with. I did not have a choice. The wigs were too heavy. I was trying to avoid the heat from any type of irons. I could not find a sodium hydroxide relaxer that straightened without burning me within 20 minutes or less.
August 2011, my new growth comes in strong again! It controls my whole look. I also started wondering if the texturized hair is reverting some. It was time to attempt the next relaxer. That was a battle. (See the separate article on my August hair battle) I was not pleased with the relaxer that I tried. It was extremely drying. I was going to have to discover a completely different combination of natural products just to adapt to this new partially relaxed hair. I did not have any more patience for this natural hair care. So I went into the gluefree quick weave styling to just let it rest because some areas were too straight to try to wear it natural, and some areas were too natural to hold straight in the crazy weather that we were having. Talk about caught between a "rock and a hard place."
September 2011, my growth was doing well. The Viviscal pills seem to work well. I decided to discontinue them during relaxer time. I am proud of my five months of hair growth. It was good for me to actually see my progress. I have been wearing my hair natural part of the time. I have also used the partial gluefree quickweave styling a few times. This styling is less stressful on the hair than the synthetic wigs, but it allows me a longer, straighter look for a styling change. Well, this was my hair texture before this September 2011 relaxer. I did not take a picture of the texture of my hair wet after the relaxer. Sorry. I still had texture in it but more wave than curl. I did not want it bone straight. However, I did need it straight enough not to revert back in high humidity. It took four sodium hydroxide relaxer attempts, and I still had not achieved enough straightness to prevent frizzing in high humidity. I am actually beginning to wonder if going from ultra kinky, sensitive scalp to straight enough to avoid reversion is realistic in one sodium hydroxide relaxer setting? I was not able to successfully do this in one setting. Of course, sensitive scalp formula relaxers can probably achieve this, but they are not healthy for the hair nor scalp. Once or twice a year in a bind, yes - you should recover; but I avoid sensitive scalp relaxers now at all cost!

This documentation is important to me because some stylists and people in general feel that "nappy hair" can only grow to a certain length and break. This is not true. "Nappy hair" is fragile in its natural state and if it is chemically overprocessed or heat damaged. If you keep "nappy hair" texturized enough to soften and not revert without over straightening it - length and strength can be maintained. So far I have learned that the frequency of relaxing is not a problem. It is the type of relaxer used. It is also how much straighening that you are trying to achieve in one setting. Stay positive, stay focussed, stay tuned!

Brainwashed on Bone Straight Hair?

I captured these images from my "Best of Soul Train" dvds. The commercial is for Ultra Sheen Permanent Creme Relaxer. The date is around 1975, and the lady's hair is not "bone straight." Also, anyone familiar with hair texture, can also see that this woman's natural curl pattern is not kinky. She is probably naturally a Type 3 curl pattern.

It's year 2011, and Black women have gotten more accustomed to "bone straight" hair even if it means sacrificing the health of the hair for the style. For the "healthy hair" hairstylists, the "bone straight" mentality has become a challenge because people are so used to the straightness achieved from the ionic flat irons. So Black women are either going completely curly or they want completely bone straight hair. What happened to the midway point? Healthy hairstylists are finding that clients do not want this midway point. Some hair stylists have decided to either make sure the hair gets relaxed really straight or possibly use the flat iron for final finishing.

The finished look from the round brush blow dry service used to be enough decades ago, but now, even the dominican hairstylists are finding people want straighter hair in these modern times.

Literally, I have seen Black women with "heat damaged hair" still go pay for a round brush and flat iron service just because they like the finished look. I cringe when I see this happening, but I have to respect others' businesses. Sometimes this damage is happening on a platform at a hair show. In my mind, I am watching heat damage compound, and I can not say a word. Eventually, after the hair becomes completely fried from the "inside out," it will break uncontrollably. Flat irons heat hair from the inside out versus curling irons heat outside in. Indirect heat versus direct heat. No matter which heat that you choose, you can NOT use heat everyday. Direct heat is safer, but too much heat from any type of iron too often will weaken the hair.

Let's talk about image for a second. The "Sleek" look does carry a certain amount of prestige. People are driven by social acceptance and fame. The more texture that is seen in your hair usually means that you are viewed as "unpolished" in some social circles.

The best advice that I can give is to stay focus on maintaining a healthy body image and completing your educational goals. Most people can control their body image/weight. A fit body image and accessories can play off most any hairdo. Have you seen the editorial covers of some of these major magazines? "Crazy, avant-garde" hair mixed with designer clothes and designer shoes seems to be acceptable!

Do you need direction on weight loss? Jennifer Hudson is on the cover of Self magazine. I believe it is the August edition. She looks great, and her food menu and exercises are very reasonable. You do not have to feel like you need a personal chef and a personal trainer. Everything that she is doing is practical and can be done on your own. I really loved this article.

Two Weeks Followup Since August 2011 Hair Battle

This is another gluefree quickweave style with my own hairline out. The two other pictures included in this article is of my hair without the gro-protect solution and one with the gro-protect solution.


As promised, I have included pictures of the back of my head following my double relaxation within a two day time period. Please do not try this at home. Smile. I am totally against it, but it is not fatal as you can see. Overall, I had a small setback in length, but I have been completely happy with my hair since I discontinued use of the flat irons. I have been overjoyed. I really, really can tell that my hair can take more abuse and still remain in tact. On the contrary, when I was using the flat irons to straighten my hair, I just never seem to be going in the right direction. No matter how often I shampooed; no matter how many leave-in conditioners and flat iron sprays. My hair just always seemed vulnerable. No more. Within two more years, I should be at 12 inches all over, and I am excited about the future! The relaxers are cool. I have about three more brands to try within the next six months. As for styling, I decided to go back into my gluefree quickweave. My own hair is out in the front, but this is a great option to have a more corporate look without so much fuss! I have been trying to perfect the crystallization phase so that removal will be as easy as the demo videos. For hair types with tightly closed cuticles, the removal of the gluefree quickweave has always been pretty easy. For those who have more curly, porous hair - filling the hair with curly hair leave-in conditioner followed by styling gel seems to give me the smoothest, slickest mold. I am soooo looking forward to a carefree removal. The extra time in application will be well worth it if the removal is quick and easy. If it works, then I will post the product combination that worked.

Relaxer Strand Test or Hair color Strand Test

In a separate article, I mentioned how to save hair from major haircuts or possible detangling sessions. I pulled some of the longest strands from my "sandwich bag" of hair. I then taped them down securely to a piece of cellophane. I use pre-cut cellophane "foil" for some of my haircoloring such as lighteners. You can use regular cellophane and this method for haircolor or relaxing or any other testing you want to do on your own hair without it being attached to your head at the time. Smile.

When relaxing, I lightly brushed the strands of hair. Honestly, it is hard to tell if you have the strands right side up or upside down. Upside down means the cuticles are going the outside direction. Actually, as you stretch out the longer pieces of hair to test, some strands can go either way as you tape them down. Hair color will be the best way to test using this "sampling" method. The direction of the cuticle would not matter. Also, smoothing will not be as important either.

Detangled? Keep that hair!

So you just completed a good detangle on your hair . . . why not keep the hair to experiment with haircolor or a new relaxer? Although the hair is no longer attached to your head, why not use it to learn more? It responds the same way whether it is attached or not. Hair is dead. You do not feel when it is cut. There is no nerve endings in the hair. The scalp is what is alive and feels everything touching it.

On a separate note, if you get a haircut of over an inch, then collect the hair to experiment with in lieu of dumping it in the trash. Just store shedded or cut hair in a sandwich bag and label the bag.

Product Review: Salon Exclusive relaxer brand

It has been at least a year since I have used a "Salon Exclusive" brand relaxer. This relaxer brand seems to leave the hair silky, straight; however, I and a few other stylists felt that the straightness maybe leaving the hair too vulnerable making it easy to break.

I mentioned my concerns to the distributor whom I was buying the product from and his response was "if you like it, then buy it; if you do not like it, then don't buy it." It was at that point that I discontinued use. I finally realized that manufacturers and distributors are there to meet sales quota. Until their sales drop, some have no intention of improving the product.

This company is very aggressive in adding new products to their line to profit from the latest trends such as the Argan oil demand. I believe this brand is also sold as the "Action South" relaxer line in other parts of the region.

The brand name "Salon Exclusive" is hard to research because many different relaxer lines consider themselves "salon exclusive" meaning salon professional use only. So to have a brand name of "Salon Exclusive" can be a little confusing even if making a phone inquiry to someone who is not aware of the actual brand existence.

I only recommend this relaxer system for those who want to maintain a short haircut or who promises to only roller set their hair. Blow-dry styling may be too much stress on really straight hair. It may be safer to use mild strength in this relaxer line and let it sit for a few extra minutes.

Those with sensitive scalps will be sensitive to the regular strength lye version. However, their no-lye version is very tolerable. As with all chemicals, choose with caution.

Demi-permanent haircolor and Relaxers Revisited

First of all, let's revisit formal haircolor terminology. A rinse is usually a leave-in lotion or foam designed to last one shampoo. Please see my article on Fanci-full brand for more information on rinses.

A true Semi-permanent haircolor is a no mix, direct dye usually applied from a squeeze bottle. Semi-permanents are great for fashion colors but usually do not cover resistant gray/white hair.

Demi-permanent haircolor is a haircolor that comes in two parts that you have to mix. The activating lotion usually contains some peroxide which is similar to permanent color. Usually, the peroxide level is too low to be considered permanent color; however, the haircolor usually holds like permanent color. Demi- permanent color such as Goldwell Colorance line has two activating lotion strengths. One is Intensive and should be treated like permanent color. The other is mild and can be used on the same day as a relaxers under CERTAIN conditions. Only clients fighting resistant gray will be your ideal customer for this on the same day as a relaxer. All others - I suggest only true semi-permanent one step haircolor if they just received a relaxer.

The picture above is from the box of an Organic Root Stimulant relaxer discussing the "do's and don'ts of hair relaxing." They do not recommend the demi-permanent haircolor be performed on the same day as a normal strength relaxer. I have written a separate article about haircolor and relaxing on the same day. I do not recommend anyone who has Type 4 curl pattern to use demi-permanent color and relaxer on the same day. The Fiberguard Affirm relaxer is probably the only exception. The Fiberguard brand has an extra strengthening complex in it. I have written a separate article on Fiberguard relaxers for color- treated hair.

If you have resistant gray and a tight curl pattern - plan for haircolor on a separate day from the relaxer and two weeks a part. It will cost you more financially, but it is better not to gamble with hair loss!

Review: Schwarzkopf Osis Dust It Mattifying Powder

After a fresh relaxer, have you ever felt that your hair is a little flat? Or do you have fine, oily hair? Any type of flat hair? Well, sprinkle some of this mattifying powder lightly into the roots where you want more volume, and then Voila! You have light control for styling ease without any weight nor any stickiness. Remember less is best! The "Dust It" powder comes out white but it becomes transparent as you finger tease.

Now guys! Do not feel left out! Do you have strong directional growth in the top of your head? Gels are overkill? Just sprinkle the "Dust it" lightly through the top; then finger spike! Voila! An edgy look without it looking wet.

Color and Relaxer Services in the same day?

Wondering how safe is it to relax and color on the same day? Wow! It depends on your hair type, your curl pattern, what type/brand of color being used, and if you are trying to cover gray. So pictured is Nairobi Semi-Permanent color bottle. It does not have to be mixed with any type of activator nor developer. It is a direct dye in a ready to use form. This type of semi-permanent color does NOT cover resistant gray hair even at relaxer time, but it safe to use on all hair types. Please note that direct dyes coat the outside of the hair strand which could hinder the conditioner from being as effective. Leave-in conditioners are definitely required when using semi-permanent haircolor. Pictured here is Goldwell Colorance line. It is a demi-permanent color that has to be mixed with an activating lotion. Goldwell Colorance has an intensive lotion and a mild (Acid) lotion. The Intensive Lotion should be treated like permanent color. It goes on dry hair, and it should NOT be used on the same day as a relaxer for anyone. Now, the Goldwell's milder Lotion can be used on the same day as the relaxer on certain hair types! Yes, it is discriminatory. Smile. If you have fine hair, then do NOT use this color on the same day as a relaxer. Stick with a ready to use/semi-permanent color even if you have gray hair. The semi-permanent color should cover gray on fine hair during relaxer time.

If you have an extremely curly hair type 3C or 4, then do NOT use this color on the same day as a relaxer. If you desire to cover resistant gray, then schedule a separate color service two weeks later for the Goldwell Intensive Lotion. If you desire a direct dye/semi-permanent color on the same day as the relaxer that will be fine for fashion colors, but it may cause the Intensive Lotion to not work as well if you need gray coverage two weeks later. If you still choose to get the Goldwell color with the milder lotion on the same day of relaxer, it will not melt your hair off, but your hair may be "fussing" about it. So it is not worth the headache.

If you have wavy hair or a looser Curl type 3, then your hair seems to do just fine with the Goldwell mild lotion on the same day as the relaxer as long as your stylist sticks to a 5 minutes or less application and a 10 minute processing time without heat. Now, a 20 to 30 minutes processing time in a corner while someone else is getting another service completed is TOO LONG. Your hair will not melt, but it may revert the relaxer application that was just applied and the hair may "fuss" for a few weeks. So I recommend setting a 10 minute timer as a guideline to rinse out.

If you have resistant gray outgrowth, an event to go to, and you need a relaxer, I advise that you get the color service done followed by a blow-dry service with a Redken CAT Treatment and mold your edges straight for the event. Then schedule a MILD Fiberguard Affirm relaxer touch-up a few weeks later. This relaxer in the mild strength safely relaxes hair with permanent color on it. Please see my separate article on the Fiberguard relaxer.

Again, if you have a curl pattern of type 3c or 4, then your hair is more vulnerable. So it will cost you more time and money to schedule separate hair appointments for the relaxer service and then to return two weeks later for the color service. Relaxer service is usually done before color service, but for those who need color every 4 weeks, then you get color service more often than you get relaxer service so your choice in relaxer strength and brand is important. If you have a sensitive scalp, Fiberguard Mild may not be a good match. Please see separate articles on sensitive scalp relaxers.

Paul Mitchell's mild or regular strength relaxer may be used in lieu of Fiberguard Mild in these cases when you are receiving regular haircolor services to keep the distinguished strands covered.

Fiberguard has designed a "Bridge Serum" to allow for permanent color and relaxer services to be done in the same visit with some restrictions, but I do NOT recommend this service option. I think it is too risky and remember the saying: "Poor planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part (the stylist)!"

A Closer Look at Type 4c kinky curly hair

Okay. What are your first thoughts about this picture? Wow? nappy? Wow? Definitely type 4c? Curlier than yours? Did you notice that the hand is holding on to at least an inch of hair? Hair can coil/curl up so tightly that you can not find the beginning of it? Can you find the ends of some of the strands? Ignore the grey hair. Ignore some of the longer texturized lengths. Just concentrating on the natural base hair at the roots. Do you find beauty in it? or does it shock you? Does it look like normal hair? Is it socially acceptable hair? Does it represent "Black hair?" These questions raise more questions. Should this hair be colored or relaxed? Do the makers of relaxers even have this hair type in mind when the directions say "put the relaxer on and rinse it out in 15 minutes?" Can you imagine a relaxer touchup service that is past due? Trying to part the hair to get to the roots to apply relaxer product could be tough then add a time limit? Does this hair type represent a high percentage of African American women? Why do all the relaxer classes and relaxer demonstrations always use women with much looser curl patterns to sell their product? Would a stylist aim for "Super Strength" relaxer or "mild" relaxer strength? What do you think? If you go for "Super," relaxer is undoubtedly going to be in contact with the scalp for a extended period of time. That is not going to be healthy. But will the mild strength be strong enough to keep it from reverting? It depends on the relaxer brand, of course. So you are probably thinking to try "regular strength" relaxer or just remain natural? Okay, if you remain natural, combing this type of hair while dry is almost impossible giving the tightness of the coil without popping it or breaking it. The only chance of combing this type of hair with less breakage is after it is well conditioned and detangled in the wet phase. You have to partition it off and plait it down until you can blow-dry it a section at a time. This is high maintenance hair. I do not recommend permanent nor demi-permanent color on this hairtype at all. Not even to cover the grey. This hair type is vulnerable in its naturally, tightly curled state. It will be even more vulnerable after a chemical is added. Relaxer plus roller set service is about the only option to maintain a corporate professional look. Sisterlocks or other natural lock styling is also an option. I am hoping that the relaxer manufacturers will re-examine how they make relaxers. How do you keep relaxer off the scalp with a curl pattern like this? This head of hair represents a lot of struggling Black women who love their hair but feel like they have been dumped into a corner with limited to no options. With hair this tightly coiled, the words "tenderheaded" and "sensitive scalp" probably go together. If you are seeking out a routine for control without breakage, please stay posted. I will add to this article as I finalize the steps, products, and techniques that are in existence today. Be patient. You are not misunderstood.

9/4/2011 Update: The True Indulgence relaxer regular strength has met my requirements of being sodium hydroxide, little to no irritation, leaves the integrity of hair in tact and delivers reasonable straightness, shine and softness. My search is over. Please see my True Indulgence relaxer review.

12/02/2012 Update: New picture above. I really recommend Sisterlocks for this type of hair. Straightening by heat or by chemicals is just too aggressive long term for this particular curl pattern to maintain solid length.  Although, I am working on a unique relaxer touch-up technique, but I have not perfected yet. Stay tuned!

May 2013 update: After two years of searching, experimenting, trying to create a new technique, I finally and unfortunately concluded the microlocks formed by comb twisting is the best way to manage this hair type.  The scalp gets too much contact with relaxers whether you are using a mild or a regular strength. Over the years or decades, the damage will appear.  The scalp may begin to scar.  I have also found that interlocking techniques such as Sisterlocks do not grab the new hair up into the existing lock like comb twisting does. I have written a few articles on tips for healthy, stylish locks for May 2013. Please see those articles. For those who want straight hair, I still suggest locking the hair, but make a custom fit stocking cap straight hair wig to wear over the locks. I have an article on that too.

I am soooo sorry that in my two year search for a better solution to straight hair for this hairtype, I found no healthy solution, but I did find a stylish solution that works with the hairtype, not against it.  My search is truly over as far as relaxers are concerned on this curl pattern and hair texture.

Two Different Textures on one Head (Type 3 & 4)

After one year and four months of "going natural," my client grew to appreciate the relaxer service for control and styling ease. She has two different hair textures. Type 3 in the front, and Type 4 in the back beginning in the crown area. Hair by Benita Blocker
Client has type 3(curly) hair in the front of her head, and type 4a (kinky curly) hair in the back area beginning at the crown. She was struggling with maintaining two different curl patterns on her one head. The picture show her hair with scalp based and "preprotect" solution on the ends. You can tell that there is a definite difference in curl patterns. She decided to return to relaxer services. We used Fiberguard Affirm relaxer system because she felt that she was allergic to some of the ingredients in the Paul Mitchell product line.