The Soft Curl Look: Wave by Design

Another "very, Very, very" happy customer who had been accustomed to the Wave Nouveau system, but she was willing to try the Wave by Design System with me.  She loved it!  I did a few things different from my "body wave" client that I highlighted on my blog from a few months back.

1) I used the Design Essentials Restore to pre-protect her hair prior to performing the re-arranger step.
2) I used the "gray" perm rods.
3) I used a neutralizing bib in addition to cotton around the hairline to apply the neutralizing solution while she sat upright the entire time.
4) I re-used the neutralizing run-off from the neutralizing bib to reapply to the hair after removing the rods.  Then rinsing again.
5) I used a semi-permanent black haircolor for about 15 to 20 minutes at room temperature at the very end of the service.

I only trimmed about a good half inch off in order to keep her in a short style.

I have noticed that some people are inquiring if "phase 2" be skipped during the soft curl process assuming that they want the "straight hair" look versus "curly hair."  So my suggestion for those people who want the straight look, do NOT skip phase 2 of the wave nouveau or wave by design systems, but instead, use super size perm rods in lieu of the smaller perm rods.  Please see my separate blog article on "super size" perm rods.  The jumbo perm rods will give you a brazilian wave which is going to enhance the body in the hair, but still leave you with an overall "straight" look.  Skipping the phase 2 step entirely will probably leave your hair looking "stick straight." I highly doubt if anyone will be excited about that.

Surprisingly, with this client, I do not think that I would do anything different in the future except purchase an end paper dispenser tool to speed up the rodding time.

Her final maintenance was heavy moisturizing with the "Mist and Shine" spray, then Lotion sections at a time as I scrunch the hair with my hands.  Styling was simple!

Relaxer application: Pre-protect or not?

Most Relaxer systems have a "pre-protect" lotion to apply to the previously relaxed ends of the hair strands. Pictured here are the "Protecto" by Affirm and the "Restore" by Design Essentials. Fiberguard Affirm has a "Preservo" pre-protect lotion.

Almost all of the pre-protect lotion/creams are "wet" to the feel. They are designed to fill in the hair shaft, even out porosity, and protect the ends from any relaxer getting in the wrong place. According to the educators in the relaxer classes, this is a necessary step. However, after review of a few youtube videos and playing back in my memory banks a few distinguished classroom settings on relaxer application, I now question if the "pre-protect" step slows the relaxer application time down for some hair types. (i.e. slows the stylist's speed down during the relaxer application step)

Sometimes the hair ends start to stick together after applying the pre-protect lotion. The hair wet by the pre-protect lotion can be harder to part; therefore slowing the stylist application time down/slowing her speed down. However, I know the educators are their to help sell all components of the product line.

According to one youtube video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=aCXnMxKNJlY&NR=1
She recommended "two minutes application time" per quadrant. (being four quadrants) The stylist based the scalp, but she did NOT use any pre-protect lotion. The model's hair seemed to be easy to part through. The hair ends did not stick together. I going to assume the model was a type 3 curl pattern. Nonetheless, the relaxer application seemed to be "on point."

I will also say that in part 2 of this particular stylist video instruction which I am not going to attach to this blog, I did NOT agree with blowdry, flat iron, and haircut of the second portion of the video. I felt the blowdry was too aggressive since she was focussed on avoiding uneven processing. I also felt that a roller set would have been more appropriate than flat ironing. This is just my opinion.

Sometimes you have to absorb what you need to know and let the other things that are not applicable to you "go out the other ear."

This article is food for thought. If the client has detangled, manageable hair, then I suggest not to wet it down with "pre-protect" lotion, but DO not be sloppy with your new growth application. This should increase the hairstylist's relaxer application speed. Goal: 2 minutes per quadrant avoiding getting too much product on the scalp.

Also, everyone should keep their ends trimmed to avoid split ends and to avoid the hair ends catching on themselves.