Interlocking Dreadlocks and Use of Permanent Haircolor

 Pictures are worth a thousand words.  This is not my client, but the two pictures of this model are probably  2.5 years apart.  They are small dreadlocks - maybe Sisterlocks? maybe not.  The haircolor appears to be permanent haircolor.  The model could possibly be coloring regularly to cover gray hair or maybe not.  She is simply beautiful.  Her dreadlock journey resembles my initial Sisterlocks journey, but I decided to abandon that path after seven months.  I have no doubt that had I continued with Sisterlocks with the limited consultants that I had to choose from in my area that my journey would result in the same look that this model has.

Chemical Review: Vigorol Liquid Hair Relaxer

 First of all, I love the new Vigorol packaging.  It's a fresh new look!  I bought two different Vigorol leave-in conditioners as well.  One is Olive and soy for moisture, and the second is Keratin and Avocado for protein support.  I prefer the Olive and soy version because everyone is going to need the moisture more than the protein.

So for all the natural hair folks that are considering this,  save your shedded hair from your next shampoo and detangle session.  Try the Vigorol on your sample of your own hair first so that you can see what the Vigorol does to your hair and how fast it works.

 I used hair samples from three different clients.  The first two samples from the left have very similar curl patterns, BUT the middle one was excessively resistant to the Vigorol relaxer compared to the first one on the left.  Even after 20 minutes, the middle sample still had some bounce back when it was stretched so I kept the Vigorol on it over 20 minutes.

As you can see the first sample on the left was a 4b/c curl pattern and it softened without much bounce back almost immediately.  I am not sure if this particular hair sample had any permanent color in it already.  The third sample to the right (picture below) definitely had some demi-permanent color in it, and it immediately softened as well.

In conclusion, I do not recommend the Vigorol for color-treated hair. I think the liquid works too quickly and with it being liquid, you need to apply slowly and carefully not to make a mess or get it running off on your face or clothes.  I would say 10 to 15 minutes max for color treated hair.  I only left the Vigorol on for the sample of hair on the far right for 10 minutes.  The far left for 20 minutes.  The middle sample about 25 to 27 minutes.

For the really resistant hair without any haircolor no matter the curl pattern, I think the Vigorol is a good texturizing option versus a relaxer.  If your hair is truly resistant, texturized hair works well in combination with heat styling.

As far as chemical smell, when you open the bottle there is a definite odor, but the rinse and the Vigorol neutralizing shampoo washed all the odor away.  The neutralizing shampoo smells nice and fresh.

Introduction to Beth Minardi Haircolor

When dealing with double processed hair (relaxer and permanent color), I prefer to stick with a haircolor line that has a 1:1 ratio of color vs. developer.  Also, I like that fact that the Minardi haircolor line has a 5 volume developer versus the 10 volume.

I am uncertain if this color line is progressive or not, but because Beth Minardi understands the importance of keeping the gray hair covered, I feel certain that this haircolor is going to become my new favorite.

I currently use Schwarzkopf haircolor in the salon which is also a 1:1 ratio, but with some recent company reorganizations, it sent all of us into a frenzy trying to get our hands on the new packaging, training, etc.

Everyone always needs a backup plan.  I spoke with a few Minardi representatives recently.  Here is what I learned:

1) They do not offer a semi-permanent color in their line.  Just demi-permanent color in either cream or liquid as well as permanent haircolor.

2) The "ICE" category is like a "NN" but it is not to be used alone.

3) The Liquid Demi-permanent color can be used as a filler during color correction services.

4) The cream Demi-permanent color is more alkaline than the liquid demi-permanent color.  The liquid formula is more acidic and sheer.

5)  The Demi-permanent color is in purple packaging, and the corresponding backbar shampoo and "after-wash"  has purple labelling.  The permanent color is in orange packaging, and the corresponding backbar shampoo and "after-wash" has orange labelling.

6) Clients with less than 50% gray can get solid gray coverage with the demi-permanent color.

7) Permanent haircolor has a 45 minute suggested processing time.  That's a good window for application as well.

I have noticed the swatches look darker than the usual color levels that I work with.  I will have to keep everyone posted as I get more experienced with matching the color levels for this particular line.

All-Nutrient Certifiably Organic Haircolor

I was delighted to hear from another one of my followers this week.  She asked that I look into the All-Nutrient haircolor.

I did research this hair color online, and here are my findings:

1) This haircolor seems to perform better on "younger" hair.  For full gray coverage, apparently, colorists find that an extra dose of color needs to be added to the formula to avoid a translucent look.

2) The "reds" seem to fade less with this color line.  So if "redhead" is your goal, then it may be worth trying it out.

3) The management of the company has not been ethical with past distributors nor other colorists who were not pleased with this color line.  It is in my opinion, that a company that does not provide good customer service when we as hairstylists are on the "front line" servicing clients, I would not feel comfortable recommending their products.

On a separate note, permanent haircolor is a permanent change to the hair.  Organic or not, permanent change can cause damage.  I would not recommend anyone switching haircolor lines if what they were using was working just fine.  If a color line does change its formulas such as "Goldwell" then one needs to re-evaluate if the new changes are still working for existing clientele.

People who want to focus on organic or "going green,"   should consider skipping chemicals all together . . .

  

Are pre-opened haircolor tubes effective?

 Sometimes when I am mixing colors, I do not always need a full tube of haircolor; yet,  by the time I need the haircolor tube again, I find some discoloration within the paste as pictured below.  I always try to keep a new tube available in case the pre-opened tube needs to be tossed in the trash.

Typically, it takes 25 minutes or more for permanent haircolor to process.  You do not want to waste 25 minutes of wait time, and the haircolor does not provide adequate coverage.  It is not worth the customer  satisfaction risk.  So if it doesn't look right, then just trash it and grab a new tube to open.

Importance: Shampoo or Conditioner?

Apparently, some will agree to disagree on this one . . .  but here's my take:

If you hair is virgin/natural with no permanent color, no relaxer, no soft curl, no heat damage, no curly perm, absolutely no chemicals, then conditioner is NOT needed.  God gave you everything in those hair strands that needed to be in those hair strands.  The hair should NOT tangle when it is soaking wet regardless of the hair type.  Leave-in conditioners and styling lotions are all that is needed besides a clarifying shampoo and a moisture shampoo.  I actually learned this while working at the nursing home.  The elderly who had no chemicals received roller sets.  Their curls lasted longer with a shampoo service only.  Why?  The conditioners would make the hair too soft to hold a curl for the two weeks that was needed for some.  There is such a thing as too soft.

Now, for you naturals who color-treat your hair or flat iron your curls straight, then yes, conditioning will repair any damage from chemicals, color, or mechanical tools.  Now, wasn't that simple?

Speaking of arguments . . .  in regards to Sisterlocks, I had a "Sista" to tell me that she knew someone who was doing Sisterlocks for $200.00; I told this "Sista" that I paid $750.00 for my Sisterlocks; then a caucasian lady interrupts us to inform us of her $10.00 clipper cut from Great Clips . . .  talking about perspective . . .

Achieve Ombre Hair: Three Hair Coloring Techniques

Pictured is Raven Symone sporting an Ombre hair coloring technique. As I was watching the Ricki Lake show last week, Celebrity stylist Kimberly Kimble showed an "ombre" hair model. This word "ombre" caught my attention. So I had to do my research to find that Ombre hair is the two toned hair trend. Ombre is spelled with a french accent aigu on the "e" which I do not know how to create in this blog editor; however, the look can be achieved by three different hair coloring methods.

As seen in Jessical Biel's ombre hair, the look can be achieved with permanent color and/or lightener(hair bleach) by a professional colorist at a salon like "Bumble and Bumble" so that the two colors will blend naturally.
Secondly, you can try temporary Ombre haircoloring by chalking the hair. I have a few other articles on this blog about hair chalking.

Of course, if all else fails, you can go for "Ombre" two toned hair extensions. This pack of "Ombre hair" is probably five or ten years old. I do not even think that they called two toned hair Ombre back then. The package description just says "Euro weaving" hair. I really think that this two toned hair look made a "comeback" with a fierce, celebrity upgrade.
So now, when you see gorgeous two toned hair, you can say "I love your Ombre hair!"

Salon advertisement for "Ombre highlights."

Schwarzkopf Hair color: A Healthier choice!

I had been wanting a healthier permanent haircolor option. I was looking for a haircolor that required the least amount of developer in its mixture. So far, Schwarzkopf Royal is working well. It is a one to one ratio of haircolor pigment to developer. It is a nice, thick creamy formula when mixed as you can see in the picture.

The Wella Color Perfect haircolor that I had been using may be too strong for relaxed hair long term. Also, it may be a little too strong for the scalp. Clients have been noticing some potentially thinner hairlines which is the first place the haircolor goes when clients are trying to color gray. The Wella color ratio was 1 to 2 with the majority of the mixture being developer.

My kinkier, relaxed clients have been put into semi-permanent, no mix haircolor to cover the gray. My less kinky, relaxed as well as natural clients will begin using the Schwarzkopf Royal formula of permanent haircolor.

Many stylist are looking to cut costs on the haircolor tubes, but I am looking for the healthiest options for my clients. The Schwarzkopf haircolor will be more expensive on my end. I will not raise my prices for the color service for maybe another year.

So far the finished results are healthy, shiny, well covered hair!

Coloring Relaxed hair: What you should know!

So you are thinking about coloring your hair? First of all, If you have black, relaxed type 4b or type 4c hair, then do not even think about coloring your hair unless you are planning to maintain a short hairstyle. No exceptions. If you want to color any gray hair coming in from amongst your natural black, long, relaxed hair, then a "natural black" semi-permanent (no mixing) squeeze bottle brand of color will have to do or consider going gray.

Now, that we got that initial category of people who should not color their hair, let's talk technical about the haircoloring process.

Pictured are three developers. 10 volume developer gives one level of lift to the hair. 20 volume developer gives two levels of lift to the hair. 30 volume developer gives three levels of lift to the hair. 40 volume developer gives four levels of lift to the hair. The 40 volume developer is not shown in the picture because I do not offer 40 volume lift as a hair service. Why? If you want to maintain healthy hair, 3 levels of lift is the most lift in one setting that you can achieve and maintain healthy, non-relaxed hair. If you have Type 3, long, relaxed hair, then 15 volume developer is the highest developer level that you can use to maintain healthy, long relaxed hair in one setting.

So how do you get 15 volume developer? Mix 10 volume and 20 volume developers in equal parts to achieve a 15 volume strength. Some hair classes say 20 volume developer is safe for relaxed hair. Yes, this is true if you are planning to maintain a short hairstyle. As the hair gets longer, relaxed hair with 20 volume lift can get tempermental and break easily. I would not risk the 20 volume developer for clients desiring length.

Not sure what curl pattern you are and you are considering color? Here's a rule of thumb to go by: If you need a regular strength relaxer and your roots (new growth) are tight within six weeks or less, then you do not need to experiment with haircolor. Once the hair is lifted, a mild relaxer is the only relaxer strength that needs to be used to prevent breakage.

Also, pictured are activating lotions for demi-permanent haircolor. Please treat demi-permanent hair color like permanent haircolor as far as the rules for experimenting with color or not. Let me be clear: Demi-permanent color is not strong enough in general to lift hair to any level, but the peroxide in the lotion is what can cause kinkier hair types to become vulnerable to breakage.

Some demi-permanent haircolor can be used on the same day as the relaxer for Type 3 and some Type 4a hair types only. The processing time is 10 to 15 minutes MAX including application. However, remember Type 3 and Type 4a clientele are going to be receiving a mild relaxer anyway.

So if you are receiving a regular strength relaxer, then a no-mix brand of color is the only option for you on the same day as a relaxer. I do not care what the hairstylist was told in the color class where they are trying to sell their color line. If you are a regular strength or a super strength relaxer client, no demi-permanent color for you on relaxer day nor any other day if you want to grow your length out.

Double processed hair means the same hair strand is processed with two chemicals. (Color and relaxer) Kinky hair becomes vulnerable to breakage when double processed.

So if you have "kinky" hair and you see a lot of sistas with beautiful haircolor walking down the street? Feel free to stop them. Don't ask them who does their hair. Why? Because their hair may not be kinky. However, do ask them if they get a mild relaxer or not? and how often? If they are every six to twelve weeks, then they do not have kinky hair to start with. Their hair may not be like yours. If you find that you have the same type of hair, then ask for their hairstylist information.

In my opinion, it is a myth that most Black women have kinky Black hair. In my years of doing hair, I have found that half of the Black women in the US really do not have truly kinky, Black hair. What? Yes. I am serious. There is a lot of mixed hair out there.

Most of the hair care manufacturers are always showcasing Black women, but these Black women nine times out of ten do not represent a kinky hair, Black woman. They look like "Black women," and they are probably considered "Black" as far as race is concerned, but their hair is NOT the "kinky head of hair" that most Black women would call "real Black hair."

Let me clarify. I am not being discriminatory. In fact, many of my long hair clientele are Type 3, mixed hair. Early in my hairstyling career, I felt that what was working for Type 3 hair should be working for my "kinkier, Type 4 hair" clients. Not the right answer. In fact, it was not until I was able to compare my notes on different clients that I started seeing the common thread of what worked and when it worked. It all became clear. The natural curl pattern is the deciding factor in what can be done with haircolor and conditioner choices.

Actually, the hair care product lines are just starting to really understand Type 4, kinky hair. Thank God so many Black women started going back to their kinky, natural hair. It really forced product makers to deal with "real, Black hair." In all honesty, Type 3 hair is easier to work with natural or relaxed. It is a low maintenance curl pattern. Type 4 hair is where women are constantly fighting to control their hair. Naturally, kinky hair is stronger, but it is harder to control for styling purposes. Relaxing kinky hair makes it vulnerable because of the strength of relaxer needed to control it. So again, regular locs and sisterlocs can easily be the "go to option" where you have no limits on haircolor because there is no relaxer involved with locking hair.

I know this article started out on haircolor. So in summary, Type 3 hair and some Type 4a hair that are happy with a mild strength relaxer have very few limitations with haircolor options. Kinky hair, type 4b and type 4c, should not experiment with haircolor unless you are natural or wearing locs.

Also, let me add a message to hairstylists in general: Hairstylists that do not have "traditional kinky hair" need to know that what works for their "non-kinky" hair will not always work on Type 4 kinky hair. Hopefully, this message is received in a loving manner. I am not trying to be a "hater." God made all of us for a purpose.

Personally, I have kinky, resistant hair. It has been a "pain in my rear end," but now, that I have eliminated flat irons, sensitive scalp relaxers, permanent haircolor, keratin treatments, relaxer alternatives, heavy wigs and daily use of heating tools, (did I forget anything? Smile) I think that I finally have a regimen that will work!

Review: Avlon's Moisturcolor Permanent Haircolor

I have been using Avlon's Affirm Moisturcolor line for about four years. Time and time again, the tubes leaked before the distributors could sell them. Now, I notice that if the tubes sit unused for even a few months, they can start leaking as well.

As far as performance, between the 2N and 6N, it is great for root touchup. The 8N and 10N appears to be too strong to touch the scalp. I would only consider these two colors for off-scalp highlights, and please do not leave it on too long. These colors seem to deposit darker if they are left on too long.

In a nutshell, this color line has failed me time and time again as far as creative color and resistant white hair. Also, with the tubes always leaking, I am losing product, money, and time.

I started using the Wella Color Perfect line for root touch-ups. So far, great results and good strength remained in the hair. I am considering the Pravanna color line for more creative color options. I also have Schwarzkopf Igora10 available for 10 minute quick foiling.

Stay tuned for special promotions on color services to use up my remaining Moisturcolor tubes!