Three Reasons for the Shrinking Black HairCare industry!

Flat Irons
When the electric, ionic flat irons took over the market,  they evened the playing field.  Everyone with or without a hair license had the ability to deliver salon styling results.

Remember the conventional stoves and marcel irons?  How about the pressing comb?  Those tools required practice and skills.  Everyone could not work the conventional hot tools.  The Black hairstylist had the competitive edge on Black hairstyling prior to the flat irons.

Salon Suites
When salon suites started making salon ownership affordable, hairstylists flocked to independence, but hairstylists stopped learning from each other.  "Divide and conquer" is exactly what happened.  Then YouTube took over.  Everyone with or without a hair license began learning from each other on an international level.

The "perfect hair" movement redefined
People have always wanted "perfect hair" despite the weather and the workouts.  However, one can not control the humidity and sweat without a lot of spritz, holding spray, hairspray, gel, or some styling aids. Over the last decade, people decided against a lot of "frozen hairstyling."  They wanted softer, flowing hair that could withstand the weather and an active lifestyle so wigs, extensions, weaves, and protective styling became mainstay.

Nowadays, many salon clients shampoo and condition their hair before going to the salon.  The Black salon in 2016 has become the place for protective styling application or braiding.  Many Black hair salons in 2016 are less about hair care as well as less about hair products.  However, around hundred years ago, it is interesting that Madame C. J. Walker started her business with hair products and expanded her business into hair services.

Black hair - Freedom or Slavery?  Are we controlling our hair or being controlled by our hair? Are we becoming the "Stepford Wives" or just simply expressive? You decide.

I look forward to 2017.

Over 40 Different Hair Types

Mizani says there are eight curl types based on their 2012 Natural Curl Key.

Sisterlocks teaches about 18 different hair types in their four day training class.

I say that both companies are falling short on the number of different hair types walking around in the world. 

Based on all the natural hair that I have seen in my chair, I can safely say that there are at least forty (40) different hair types.

So if you look at a ruler or tape measure in inches, I would say that every eighth of an inch spans into a different curl pattern.  So one person's curl diameter may be 1/8" and another 1/4" and so on up until about 1.25 inches in diameter.  Well that gives you at least 10 curl patterns.  Then each of those ten curl patterns are either: deep set or shallow. And then on top of that, they are either stiff/resistant or pliable.  So that makes 10 x 2 x 2 which equals 40 different hair types.

Please note, that shallow curl patterns can NOT be texturized because the curl pattern will go from "shallow" to just plain "straight."  There is no middle of the road with shallow curl patterns.

If you have a deep curl pattern, then a texturizer will make a deep set into a shallow curl pattern.

If you are not sure of whether or not your curl pattern is deep or shallow, then grab your natural hair and slightly stretch or elongate it.  If it still has a wave to it, then you have a deep curl pattern.  If it looks straight with minimal stretching, then your curl pattern is shallow.

Now, shallow curl patterns can be resistant or stiff despite the fact that they are close to straight as far as curl patterns go.  The resistance factor is how strong the hair proteins want to remain undisturbed.  On the flip side, a deep curl pattern is possible that it is pliable and easily straightened.

Resistant hair whether deep or shallow will resist being straightened by heat and will resist being straightened by chemical.

Some resistant hair if texturized will eventually reform into its original protein bonds as if the chemical never even took.  So for some resistant hair, if you do not completely "knock" the "kinks" out of the hair, it will revert back.  Also, please understand that if you are going against the resistant hair trying to straighten it with chemicals or heat, you stand the risk of making it fragile, but it will be straight.

In my opinion, once someone determines that they have truly resistant hair whether it is a 3/4" curl diameter or 3/8" curl diameter, micro-locking by coiling or interlocking should be presented as an option.  Resistant hair will less likely maintain long straight lengths because it will be pre-deposited to breakage due to the processing required to "knock" the kink out of it.

Roller set/wet set are still the best secret to maintaining length, but the hair has to be straight enough to wrap around the roller in a smooth manner which goes back to how effective the relaxer took.

If you have pliable, soft, manageable hair, then maintenance is much easier because the hair is NOT resistant to change.

I would like to conclude with a real life Q and A scenario:

Reader says:
I am rethinking going natural.  It took me too many hours to wash and straighten my hair.  As soon as I finish a few sections, the first ones are back to poof a ball again.  I am eight months post relaxer, and it has been rough.

My response:
Everyone's curl pattern and curl behavior in regards to shrinkage is different. So everyone's natural journey is unique to their hair's unique makeup.  I have seen soooo many different natural hairtypes in my chair that I can safely say that there are probably 40 different natural hair types.  Based on the scenario that you just described, you need two different products to moisturize/stretch then seal it with a defining gel for control.  If that does not work, then you need to consider micro-locking by coiling or interlocking.  If your hair is as resistant to straightening as you described, then you will damage it in order to make it hold straight. Be true to thine self. I have seen darker skinned sisters with loose curl patterns and lighter skinned sisters with ultra coily hair.  Your hair knows what it wants to do.  You either work with it or against it.  After eight months post relaxer, you should know if you can control your hair without locking and without chemicals.  It's all about control.  Otherwise, you start the day with one style and  by the end of the day, you are trying to figure out why there's nothing left of the style.  More bad hair days than good hair days are a definitely a sign for change.

DevaCurl has Four Curl Categories

DevaCurl curl care line has categorized curls into four categories: S'wavy, wavy, botticelli, and corkscrew. Please see the attached picture for examples of each category. Most ethnic hair is considered curly or overcurly and would most likely fall into DevaCurl's "corkscrew" category.

If you are interested in other curl pattern pictures, please review our curl pattern review article on this blog: Curl Pattern Review

According to January 2011 Modern Salon magazine, 65% or more of all people have some curl or wave in their hair. When managing curly hair, remember some people need moisture only and others need moisture and control.

Those who need control should seek out curl care products with more weight to them in order to seal. Yes, you may feel some film on the hair or some firmness, but it should not look hard. You should see shine and curls that are set into place.

If you are not worried about control then moisturize and go! Leave-in conditioners such as Mixed Chicks is all you would need.

On a separate, note, according to Naturally Curly Network 2011, 48% of curly-haired consumers wear their hair curly 100% of the time.

Paul Mitchell Products now has added a Curl Care line. Honestly, all major product lines are adding "curl care" components to their existing line. I think that curly hair is here to stay until the economy gets better. Natural hair is less fuss and less styling time when you get a good regimen down.