Hair Extensions: Creating Texture in Straight Strands

These strand extensions were behaving very stringy looking.

I decided to curly perm these.  Pictured is the stiff behavior of the hair extensions before the perm solution.  The extension hair did not want to stay curled on the rod.

I used the Quantum Acid Extra Body perm solution to force the texture in the strands.

This Zotos Quantum perm was about 3 years old, and it left the strands hydrated.  The odor of the chemical lingered in the salon a lot longer than I was hoping for, but overall, I would trust this brand to use it again.

The mauve rod delivered a looser wave than the white rods.

My client preferred more texture so we decided to go with the curl delivered from the white perm rods.

I had five more strand bundles to complete.  I slide this one right off the rod without fingering through it.

The white perm rods deliver the perfect texture in that straight hair, and it does not tangle.

The strands dry with a lot of texture in them.

I used the Opti curl acid wave extra body perm on the remainder of the hair extensions.

The Opti-curl does not have a lingering odor, but the hair extensions definitely seemed drier.  I would not recommend this perm on real hair, but it worked fine for the extension hair.

For the strand hair extensions that were placed in my clients' relaxed hair, I had to use a Sunglitz plastic highlighting cap to form a barrier to pull the hair extensions through while protecting the already relaxed hair  from the incompatible curly perm.  I did tease/backcomb her hair out of the strands before pulling the extensions through.

I used color applicator bottles filled with water to dip the spiral placed rods to begin diluting the perm solution after the processing time expired.  A Neutralizing bib was necessary as well. 

The service was very successful.  We had to add more textured strands, and we wet set the newly textured extensions that were already attached.  Overall, the texture was still slightly silky, but the curl behavior was much more friendly to staying curled and blended.

I will take a picture on her next wet set visit.  I had to hot curl the new strands added, but the existing strands were roller set.  Overall, we really were both happy with the improved blending.

8 Weeks Later . . .  A Roller set using the Lottabody Wrap Me Foaming Mousse.

Soft Curls and Curly Perms: The Differences

Since there are people ready to abandon their natural hair journey, I wanted to discuss the soft curl chemical option as it compares to curly perms.

Both "soft curls" and "curly perms" are thio based chemicals making them incompatible with traditional relaxers.   They also both require the hair to be wet when rolled on the perm rods.  Blotting the rolled hair with paper towels prior to applying the neutralizer to the perm rods is also the best way not to dilute the neutralizer and to deliver a firm set of curls.

Now, for their differences:
1) The curly perm is for those who have a smooth, straight hair from the start, and they want more curl and texture in their hair.

The soft curl system starts with a "rearranger" which is more of a thio-based relaxer to reduce the existing over-curly hair pattern before rolling the hair up into a new curl pattern.

2) The curly perm does not require any chemical application to the hair until after the hair is completely rolled on the perm rods.

The soft curl system exposes the scalp to chemicals from step one and throughout the rolling of the hair which could take 45 minutes for thicker hair in small slices to ensure proper neutralization can take place.  Hair rolled too thick will make it hard for the neutralization of all the strands on the perm rods.

3) The curly perm requires a plastic cap to prevent the hair from air drying during the average 20 minutes processing time but not required during neutralization time.

The soft curl system requires a plastic cap during processing time and neutralization time.

4) The soft curl system has one extra chemical step than the curly perm.

5) Some Type 3 curl patterns could potentially use the curly perm to soften their curl pattern or use the "soft curl" process for a more aggressive rearrangement of curl pattern.  Type 1 hair type would be a typical candidate for a curly perm.  Type 3c and Type 4 hair types would be a typical candidate for soft curls.

By the way, many people still equate the soft curl to the "jheri curl" minus the "drip." Better technology. Smile.