Advanced Gray Solution: Light Golden Chestnut

The Clairol Beautiful Collection Advanced Gray Solution line only has five  hair colors to choose from. This line is only recommended for up to 50% gray.  If you are 100% gray/white, then the Light Golden Chestnut color covers the gray with a flaming coppery orange color which is very noticeable!

The good news is that the gray hair is covered without mixing a separate activator lotion nor developer.

The bad news is that the flaming brazzy color is NOT a good look.

The better news is that a violet conditioner such as the AG Sterling Silver conditioner will tone the flaming color down.  You will need an additional 15 minutes under medium heat upon rinsing out the Gray solution.

Clairol Recommendations for their Semi-permanent hair colors:
1) Heat is NOT recommended immediately following a relaxer.  (This tip is for all their "squeeze" bottle semi-permanent hair colors.)

2) Heat is not recommended for use with the Advanced Gray solution.

My tip:
From my own experience for those with more than 50% gray or resistant gray hair, the Advanced Gray solution can go under medium heat for 20 minutes to get coverage.   (NO heat on the same day of a relaxer)

But you need to plan for the extra 15 minutes of conditioning with the violet conditioner to tone the Light Golden Chestnut down.  You do have to rinse the processed color out first before applying the violet conditioner for toning purposes.

I have mentioned in other articles in this blog that some of the darker Advanced Gray Solution hair color can leave a "greenish - ash" color in highlighted ends.  Please see separate articles on this blog to learn more on that topic.

The Advanced Gray Solution is not a good fit for everyone all the time.  You just need to know when to use it especially when the customer does not want a demi-permanent nor permanent hair color.

Protein shampoos: Reconstructive Overkill?

Believe it or not, some shampoos can serve as protein reconstructors in place of conditioning treatments.  This AG shampoo has a pH  of 4.5 to 5.5 which is a normal pH for hair and skin.  The hair seems to be able to absorb protein no matter if it is supplied through the shampoo or the conditioner.  It seems odd but even after rinsing shampoo or conditioner out of the hair; the hair absorbs what it is craving.

Careful, if your hair is compromised due to heat damage or mechanical damage it may absorb too much protein too quickly and you may need to soften it with a conditioner that has no protein.  Some moisturizing conditioners still have low levels of protein.  Bee Mine Products has a conditioner specifically designed without protein.

As far as other protein enriched shampoos, be careful of  "Cleansing Creams" for curly, natural hair.  KeraCare Cleansing Cream can be protein overkill for relaxed hair.  Although, it is a sulfate-free product, it still is better for chemical free hair.  Even KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo - Classic has some protein in it but less than the Cleansing Cream.  Relaxed hair seems to remain strong and detangled with the use of the KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo.  Typically, clients who keep their hair 70% to 85% relaxed will find that the KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo is sufficient for their overall hair needs.

So if you are short on time but need a reconstructor, consider adding a protein enriched shampoo to your shampooing step followed by a pure moisture conditioner.  Please see the article on the Ultra Sheen Protein shampoo that was advertised in the 1970's on this blog as well.

Product review: AG Sterling Silver toning Conditioner

Got Grey/Gray hair? and you get relaxer service? Does your gray turn yellowish? You want a safe way to get the gray back silver on relaxer day?

Well, the AG Sterling Silver toning conditioner is blue/violet and delivers that "silver fox" look safely on relaxer day. How?

What has worked for my clients is this: Neutralize as you normally would and layer this AG toning conditioner in with your final conditioner.

For example: After your three Mizani neutralizing shampoos, rinse, and apply Mizani Moistufuse generously throughout the hair. Then go back immediately and layer the AG Sterling Silver through the hair. I do not recommend heat. Room temperature for 10 minutes should be good. Rinse and you should see a beautiful pearlized silver.

Careful, if the client does not have a lot of yellow tinting going on, then go easy on the AG Conditioner. You do not want the client to go too blue nor too purple.

I have not tried adding heat to the process, but room temperature is adequate enough to make this rich conditioner work.