First of all, I told three or four hairstylists about these two local Wella color classes. None of them showed up. I value continuing my education. Every instructor offers different knowledge. Of course, those of you that follow my blog, learn what I learn.
So the first tip is regarding skin and/or strand testing. The instructor made two great points about strand testing.
- If the client is young and new to haircolor, then there is a chance that they can be allergic to the haircolor. A skin test may be needed a few days before the color service.
- If the client is new and has long hair, then the history of the hair can factor into the results of your color service so it is better to spend an extra 30 minutes watching haircolor process on a "strand test" versus completing the whole head and encountering uneven color results or breakage. Correcting uneven results can take you an extra four hours and who wants to overprocess already weak hair?
The second tip that I want to share with you is in regards to multi-dimensional haircoloring. I learned a long time ago to use two different color foils, but what "hit home" for me this time was the bending the foil over the rattail comb to show your foil color. Many times in the past, I would lose focus and would have to flip the foil over to check on the color of the foil because all the foil looks the same on the back side of it.
By always keeping a glimpse of the foil color, it speeds up the foiling service because it is all color coordinated. The bend in the foil make the biggest difference in keeping the colorist on track.
The third tip is regarding those measurement lines at the bottom of the haircolor mixing bowls. The inch lines are for when you need to add extra pigment to a color formula.
One extra ribbon of haircolor per level that you are trying to achieve. If you are at a 2:1 ratio of developer to color, then I would not worry about adjusting the developer amount, but if you are 1:1, then more developer may need to be added.
This is the first time that any instructor has suggested how to use these lines at the bottom of the bowl. I will have to further research if each line can be used to equal a specific amount of ounces.
Great tips- right? I have already been able to put in practice what I learned in the two classes (Fundamental Foiling and Corrective Color).
I had been wanting a healthier permanent haircolor option. I was looking for a haircolor that required the least amount of developer in its mixture. So far, Schwarzkopf Royal is working well. It is a one to one ratio of haircolor pigment to developer. It is a nice, thick creamy formula when mixed as you can see in the picture.
The Wella Color Perfect haircolor that I had been using may be too strong for relaxed hair long term. Also, it may be a little too strong for the scalp. Clients have been noticing some potentially thinner hairlines which is the first place the haircolor goes when clients are trying to color gray. The Wella color ratio was 1 to 2 with the majority of the mixture being developer.
I am tossing these partially used color tubes of Affirm Moisturcoclor. The material of the tube is either cheap or the color pigment itself is not stable. These tubes new and used just leak, leak, leak. I have been using the Wella Color Perfect line and the Goldwell Colorance lines. Neither of these brands give me any leakage problems and seem to work fine.
