Benita Blocker's TEN Tips for Achieving Red Haircolor

Hair by Benita Blocker

Tip #1 Determine your current level of haircoloring.

Are you 100% gray?  Are you 50% or more gray? Are you above or below a Level 6 in the haircolor chart?  A professional hair colorist can assist with this evaluation.

Tip #2 Determine if you have all natural pigment or is there some artificial pigment from a previous haircoloring visit already present.

Haircoloring is like "wall painting."  A wall that has layers of paint on it is more complicated than a new white wall.

Tip #3 Determine your maintenance cost.

If your natural haircolor does not match your new haircolor, then your roots will always grow revealing your true natural haircolor.  How often do you want to touchup your new growth?  Every four weeks? Every 8 weeks?  Do you want to incorporate a "red shampoo" with your weekly shampoo service?

Tip #4 Determine your maintenance routine to maintain healthy hair.

Do you use you a lot of hot tools or do you roller set?  Do you get relaxer services or are you relaxer-free?

Tip #5 Determine your styling preference.

If you have over 50% gray in any one area (versus a "salt and pepper" blend), then the gray/white hair is going to be more sheer and/or "flaming."  Can you part your hair to mask any areas that are brighter in color than what you desire?

Tip #6 Determine if your hair is strong enough to stand a lightener or  hair bleaching service.

If you have natural black hair, then a highlift permanent color in the blonde family can lift you into the red family and you can use an additional red toner to glaze over it.

If you have artificial colored black hair, then a color remover service or a hair bleaching service will be required to pre-lighten the hair.

If you have all gray or white hair like my client pictured above, a semi-permanent color like the Design Essentials Semi-permanent haircolor called "Passion" is all you need.  It goes on wet.  No mixing. Deposit only.  No harshness to the hair because you are naturally pre-lightened.

Tip #7 Determine if you plan to relax your hair in the future.

Relaxers are permanent, and they change the integrity of the hair.  If you are considering permanent haircolor or demi-permanent haircolor plus relaxer services, then two different chemicals on the same hair makes the hair extremely vulnerable to breakage regardless of race.

Tip #8 Determine long term haircolor goals as well as short term haircolor goals.

You can go many places to achieve the "red" look that you want short-term.  You can leave the salon looking fabulous, but that is the short term/impulse decision making.  Long term, in a month from that fabulous red haircolor visit, you will be faced with the challenge of how to keep that red fabulous.

Tip #9 Let professional haircolorists advise you on whether to use a Semi-permanent, Demi-permanent, or a Permanent Haircolor.

Tip #10 Don't be afraid to get a second or third opinion on your customized haircolor plan.

I charge $15 for "creative color" consultations.  The $15 payment can be credited toward a future color service.

Balayage Plus Highlighting on Locs

Haircolor by Benita Blocker

I performed a Balayage technique in the bang area by 3 strand twisting and surface stroking the top of the locs. She plans her own retightenings.  I am just her colorist.

Hair color by Benita Blocker

I also highlighted 24 locs that my client can use semi permanent color to play around with.  I also performed gray coverage at her roots.  She wanted a summer splash of color . . .  I enjoyed doing it!!!!

Thinking about new Haircolor for the Spring?

 It's spring time, and clients are inquiring about new haircolor!  If you see a picture in the magazine that you like, then use it for color placement and styling decisions only.  You should look at a swatch book to see what haircolor choices are available.  Please remember the swatches are on "white" hair so unless you are starting out with "bleached out" hair, then a colorist will know what needs to be done to get you in the family of the color look that you are trying to achieve.  You basically have to decide if you want any reds or coppers present or purely golden yellow or blonde toned down to a light brown.

Everyone except redheads fall into the natural level chart above.  Level 1 is black and Level 10 is a blonde. So as a colorist, we have to get you from your natural level to your desired color.  Sometimes lightener or hair bleach is a must if you are a level one through level four which are all forms of jet black to darkest brown.

Many times with haircolor, it is best to work with your hair's natural color lift and just tone it.  We as colorists just need to know how visible you want the highlights to look.  Subtle? or Showstopping in a good way?

Dimensional Highlights on Relaxed Hair

 Dimensional Haircolor by Benita Blocker. 2014.   My client has relaxed hair and dimensional highlights.  She has been on the Fiberguard Affirm Normal relaxer to control her Type 4a/b curl pattern.  So  can you guess how many color sessions were completed to achieve this dimensional highlighted look?

The answer is in the picture above.  Did you guess right?

The Paul Mitchell Super Strengthner in-process treatment is an important part of maintaining the integrity of the hair when achieving highlift colors.  Any color process that takes a customer more than three color levels above their natural God given haircolor is considered "high-lift."

Clarifying shampoo is also important to make sure that all the lightener is washed out.  Hairstylists need to judge by the feel of the hair as to how much conditioning needs to be done.  I used the Pureology Colour Fanatic spray throughout the hair before applying lightener.  It did not seem to interfere with the lightening process so I may have found another good use for the beautifier spray.

Review: Affirm MoisturColor Semi-Permanent Hair Color

Well, it's a "thumbs up" for Affirm Moisturcolor Conditioning Semi-Permanent Hair Color.  It does provide adequate coverage for those who need gray coverage on the same day as the relaxer.  It does require a separate step like the Sebastian Cellophanes Deep Brunette color required, but there is no mixing needed.  It is truly an "out of the bottle" haircolor.

Also, the best news is that the "4N" delivers a nice brown highlight to the gray without any brazziness nor gold tones.  The base color is neutral for both the "2N" and the "4N."

The "2N" delivers a darkest brown to natural black effect to the hair.  The "4N" delivers a medium to light brown effect to hair.  The bottles come with expiration dates on them.

I recommend a brush application to avoid oversaturating the scalp. The consistency of this haircolor is slightly runny. Also, the directions read "Shake Well."

Hairstylists and clients do benefit from sharing reviews like this.  Everyone is short on time and money - I strongly encouraged other hairstylists to share discoveries that work.

Have a great Holiday!

Suspicious Hair Chemicals at Rite Aid Drugstore

So today, December 16, 2013, I visited my local Rite Aid Drugstore in Cornelius, NC and decided to visit the ethnic hair product aisle.  I could not believe all the discolored packaging.  I inspected some of the boxes to look at manufacture codes, and I believe that some of this product had an expired shelf life.  Others could be spoiled from sun damage.

The surprising thing is that where these products were positioned in the drugstore,  there was NO sunlight nor opportunity for sun damage.  So I have reason to believe that either the packages came into the store "spoiled/expired" or  they were recently relocated to discontinue sun damage.  Either way, hair chemicals should not be sold if the packaging looks like these in this article.

Initially, I was thinking maybe this Rite Aid Drugstore was only neglecting the Ethnic hair products as far as keeping the products fresh for consumer purchasing so I went to the regular haircolor aisle, and I also found discolored packaging.  The fresher product in the back and the discolored packaging in the front.

Luckily, the newer packaging was behind the discolored packaging on both aisles so I really had a great opportunity to prove that it was not my eyes deceiving me.  

I have to change out posters in my salon storefront every other month because the sun discolors them.  So I know what damage the sun can do to artwork and inks within posters.  The discoloration that I saw on the shelves stuck out like a beam of light.

I have written other articles on expired products such as hair glue, styling gels, conditioners, setting lotions, etc.  Please do call the manufacturer to confirm that your hair chemical is fresh before using them at home.

Hairstylists, please stand your ground if a hair distributor is trying to push suspected old products on you.  After three years, most hair products are probably going to start losing performance. 

Everyone, please be careful of expired hair products especially if they are chemicals!

Cameron Diaz Hair color for the Counselor movie

I just saw the trailer for the movie the "Counselor."  I loved this new haircolor placement on Cameron Diaz.  To achieve this look, I would create the bob haircut. Secondly, strategically darken the roots and quadrants needed to create this look and rinse out.  I would then rough dry the hair and lift the remaining quadrants to blonde.  Of course, if the client has gray hair, then you would be depositing blonde color.  Picture credits: www.camerondiaz.org and www.dailymail.co.uk

 

All Semi-Permanent Haircolors are not equal!

Within an hour, the Goldwell Elumen High Performance Semi-permanent haircolor in "black" had destroyed the top gloss coating of my tint bowl.  Gray coverage on the hair worked well though.  My client's hair look great and has remained healthy through two or three Elumen applications!

 At another color session, the tint brush suffered damage to its glossy coat using the same Goldwell Elumen high performance semi-permanent haircolor.  The haircolor was sitting for hours before I rinsed the color off the brush to discover this discoloration.  That is why I did not leave the haircolor in the tint bowl past an hour the next usage, but I still got discoloration.  I will have to avoid using transparent glossy tint bowls and brushes in the future with any of the Elumen haircolors.

 This haircolor does not require any mixing with an activator type lotion.  It is used immediately from the bottle.  It has been providing excellent gray coverage in-between relaxer services.  I will not advise it on the same day as the relaxer because of its high performance action.

I see a Lactic Acid and sodium hydroxide in the ingredients list.  So I believe the cuticle is slightly swollen to make this semi-permanent haircolor high performance.  It also leaves a slight line of demarcation.

According to other online reviews, Elumen holds almost permanently to damaged hair.  People like Elumen red color(s) because they do not bleed out nor fade.  Damaged hair is considered any hair that has been chemically altered or mechanically roughed up.

Overall, the Elumen haircolor should be used with caution.  I would use a protective barrier around the hairline to avoid a hard line.  This protective barrier may not be an uncommon practice, but with Elumen darker colors, forgetting the protective barrier may be a battle that you do not want to fight at the end of the hair service.  Also, gloves are essential.  The Elumen haircolor seems to stain the hands instantly.

Product Review: Goldwell Elumen Hair color

Goldwell Elumen Hair color has been on my wish list for awhile.  It is a sem-permanent color.  There is no mixing with developer.  Just a direct dye.  I like it.  It seems to absorb better in the hair than the Sebastian Cellophanes.

There is some sodium hydroxide toward the end of the ingredient list.  So if you or a client has a soft curl or thio based chemical, then I would not recommend the Elumen color because it may not be compatible.

I used this color on a client with relaxed hair to cover her gray in between relaxers, and it covered gray decently considering the last relaxer touch-up was a few weeks prior.

The consistency of the Elumen seems wet enough to cocktail with conditioner if a quick fix is ever needed.  So far, I have only tried the NA@2 color which is a natural black color, but I plan to add a few more color options at the salon.

The Definition of Natural Hair

Hair by Benita Blocker, this model had a keratin smoothing treatment completed without extensions . . .

Is her hair considered natural?  If a person has dreadlocks, are they considered natural?

If you ask a White man what is his definition of "natural hair?"  His response is likely to be
"NO WEAVE, NO EXTENSIONS" means "NATURAL HAIR."

If you ask some Black women what are their definitions of "natural hair?"  There would be multiple responses such as

1. No texturizer
2. No relaxer 
3. No haircolor
4. No keratin treatments
5. No Heat
6. No Weave
7. No Extensions
8. No Wig
9. No Vigorol
10. No Body Wave

So if a White woman is wearing strand by strand hair extensions, then her hair is NOT considered "natural" according to some definitions of "natural hair."  Actually, some White men are considering dating outside of their race because they want a woman who is extension free.  Interesting . . .

Also, if dreadlocks are colored (with permanent haircolor), then the dreadlocks are NOT Natural by some definitions of "natural hair."

In a nutshell, there are very few people on this planet wearing their "natural hair."  So there is NOT a natural hair movement - only a "CURLY hair" movement.

Semi-permanent haircolor: The Clear Choice

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All semi-permanent haircolor are not equal.  I have found the Dudley's "Blank Clear" of their Fantastic Colors Conditioning Haircolor is my first and top choice for shiny hair.  Hands down.

When comparing it to the Nairobi Tru Colors' "Clear Gloss," the Dudley's gloss is crystal clear and absorbs quickly into the hair.  The Nairobi clear gloss is cloudy looking and seems to coat the hair versus absorb into it.

When charging extra for this clear color bath, the Nairobi clear gloss did not deliver dramatic results.  Whereas the Dudley's clear gloss, people are willing to pay extra after just one trial service.

Dudley's is the clear choice for semi-permanent conditioning haircolor.

All-Nutrient Certifiably Organic Haircolor

I was delighted to hear from another one of my followers this week.  She asked that I look into the All-Nutrient haircolor.

I did research this hair color online, and here are my findings:

1) This haircolor seems to perform better on "younger" hair.  For full gray coverage, apparently, colorists find that an extra dose of color needs to be added to the formula to avoid a translucent look.

2) The "reds" seem to fade less with this color line.  So if "redhead" is your goal, then it may be worth trying it out.

3) The management of the company has not been ethical with past distributors nor other colorists who were not pleased with this color line.  It is in my opinion, that a company that does not provide good customer service when we as hairstylists are on the "front line" servicing clients, I would not feel comfortable recommending their products.

On a separate note, permanent haircolor is a permanent change to the hair.  Organic or not, permanent change can cause damage.  I would not recommend anyone switching haircolor lines if what they were using was working just fine.  If a color line does change its formulas such as "Goldwell" then one needs to re-evaluate if the new changes are still working for existing clientele.

People who want to focus on organic or "going green,"   should consider skipping chemicals all together . . .

  

Three colors safe to use on relaxer day

Resistant Gray or White hair? No problem.  These Sebastian Cellophanes semi-permanent colors (Deep Brunette, Shine Clear, and Golden Brunette) require no mixing.  The "Deep Brunette" delivers "black, darkest brown."  The "Golden Brunette" delivers "caramel."  The "Shine Clear" can be used alone to seal the hair after conditioning or it can be used to dilute the other two colors.

The best deal about the "Deep Brunette" is that all three primary colors are already blended into this color so it makes resistant gray no problem with coverage.  Resistant gray hair should process at least 25 minutes to 30 minutes with a cool down in order to ensure coverage.  This color does has to be shampooed to remove excess from off the scalp followed by another instant conditioner if hair feels like it needs it.

Pictured is the newest Sebastian Cellophanes packaging.

Minerals in Tap Water Alters Hair color?

 Do you remember seeing pinkish residue around your shower head in the bathroom?  Do you feel like your hair pulls warm or red gradually?  Well, the "soft tap water" in this area seems to be the culprit.  I had another hairstylist swear that this Malibu Color Wellness shampoo prevents those pinkish water minerals from collecting in your hair.

My water line shows some pinkish discoloration.  So there is probably some truth to countering the color changes in the hair especially if you have blonde or other lighter color hair.

Accent Hair Coloring: A bold new trend

Fashion has been showcasing bold, disconnected colors. Now, the freedom of color is expanding into hair!

You will need color bowls with multiple wells to hold the different colors that you want to add. Hair must be pre-lightened or bleached prior to trying to achieve any accent haircolor.

Semi-permanent colors do not have to be mixed with an activator. Using the law of color, you can achieve secondary colors such as greens and violets or just buy them pre-mixed if you can find them.

 As far as maintenance, color treated shampoos and conditioners should be used to slow down fading.  Also, the "touch-up on the roots" may be a little hard to maintain consistency if you want to continue to keep the look for an extended period of time.

Achieve Ombre Hair: Three Hair Coloring Techniques

Pictured is Raven Symone sporting an Ombre hair coloring technique. As I was watching the Ricki Lake show last week, Celebrity stylist Kimberly Kimble showed an "ombre" hair model. This word "ombre" caught my attention. So I had to do my research to find that Ombre hair is the two toned hair trend. Ombre is spelled with a french accent aigu on the "e" which I do not know how to create in this blog editor; however, the look can be achieved by three different hair coloring methods.

As seen in Jessical Biel's ombre hair, the look can be achieved with permanent color and/or lightener(hair bleach) by a professional colorist at a salon like "Bumble and Bumble" so that the two colors will blend naturally.
Secondly, you can try temporary Ombre haircoloring by chalking the hair. I have a few other articles on this blog about hair chalking.

Of course, if all else fails, you can go for "Ombre" two toned hair extensions. This pack of "Ombre hair" is probably five or ten years old. I do not even think that they called two toned hair Ombre back then. The package description just says "Euro weaving" hair. I really think that this two toned hair look made a "comeback" with a fierce, celebrity upgrade.
So now, when you see gorgeous two toned hair, you can say "I love your Ombre hair!"

Salon advertisement for "Ombre highlights."

Goldwell Colorance Hair color Update

Goldwell's Demi-Permanent line is called Colorance. They updated the Colorance line this year. The non-intensive lotion now is equivalent to the bottle with the "blue C." The color of the lotion is different. It is more whitish versus clear from the old formula. I have not gotten to use the new formula yet, but the intensive lotion now is white, thicker, and required to be mixed in the bowl instead of the bottle. The non-intensive lotion is still required to be mixed in the bottle.

I do not know how compatible the Colorance line is now for relaxed hair. I will keep you posted.

A Good Hairstylist must look, smell, talk, listen, feel and think!

I had a client come in for a relaxer service. I felt that I could smell "Sulfur 8 hairdressing" in her hair so I asked the client "are you using any sulfur based products?" She said "NO." I then reworded my question. "Have you ever used Sulfur 8 hairdressing before?" Then the client said "yes, about six days ago." So then I had to explain how Sulfur based products and relaxer services do not go well together. I declined her the relaxer service, and we had to shampoo and press out the roots. She still left with a great hairstyle and scheduled for another week for a relaxer service.
This was a perfect example where hairstylists need to know their "product smells," use their common sense, talk and listen to the client before peforming any chemical service.
Another example where hairstylist need to be cautious is with "permanent haircoloring." The clients sometimes think that because they "re-colored" their hair back to its original "dark" color that it is not color-treated. Once hair has been permanently altered by lightener or permanent haircolor, it is still considered "color-treated" hair no matter what rinse you put on top of it. A mild relaxer strength is the only strength of relaxer recommended for color-treated hair. Sometimes a hairstylist has to feel for excessive dryness in the hair ends in order to get a feel for whether the client has been experimenting with hair color. Again, using your sense of feel comes in handy.
Also, if the client is over age 40, and you do not see not one single strand of gray hair, then you can safely assume they are coloring or rinsing their hair. If it does not feel dry to touch then it may be a semi-permanent color, but if you feel any roughness, then it is probably a demi-permanent or a permanent color or a henna.
Henna and relaxers are non-compatible. I was told there are some body art grade hennas that are safe to use with a relaxer, but I would not risk it!

November 2012 update:  I just had a new client to come in wanting her sideburn areas relaxed because they were too frizzy.  I explained to her that frizz could come from damage to the hair.  If that is the case, relaxing damaged hair is not going to resolve the frizz.  We opted to cut the sideburn areas down without the chemical processing.  I also introduced her to the Silk Elements edging gel.  Her loose curl pattern molded down nicely.  The haircut was the perfect solution.  It can still be relaxed at a later date if she so chooses.  She is trying to stick with the "press and curl" procedure for her entire head.  If I was really focussed on making the money off of the relaxer service, then I would have relaxed her sideburns, and then I may have still cut it down.  However, for me, I know that relaxers can be more damaging to the scalp, and I felt that she already had some reservations about full relaxer services.  So I decided that the extra revenues that I could earn from a relaxer service was not necessarily the best solution to the frizziness that the client was wanting to eliminate.  The client really appreciated me giving her my professional opinion as well as presenting her with reasonable options and giving her time during our consultation to make an informed decision as to her next step. Mission accomplished.

Getting ready to toss the Affirm MoisturColor!

I am tossing these partially used color tubes of Affirm Moisturcoclor. The material of the tube is either cheap or the color pigment itself is not stable. These tubes new and used just leak, leak, leak. I have been using the Wella Color Perfect line and the Goldwell Colorance lines. Neither of these brands give me any leakage problems and seem to work fine.

Safe Gray coverage on relaxed, type 4, resistant hair

As promised, a healthy solution to gray coverage on resistant, relaxed, type 4 hair. Also, those who have color allergies, consider this semi-permanent hair color option.

As stated in my previous article, gray hair /white hair is missing all colors. So all the primary colors need to be added back into it in order to get coverage and allow for the colors to cancel each other according to color theory.

I have chosen Nairobi TruColors Semi-permanent color for its intense pigment deposit. Also, they have a professional coloring guide to follow. In order to create a "Cognac" light brown color, I had to mix #4 Mahogany (reddish brown) with Marigold (yellow gold) as well as #2 Indigio (blue black). The percentage is mostly Mahogany followed by Marigold then Indigio as needed. Test the color mixture on a white paper towel, and you are ready to apply to resistant White hair.

There is no peroxide. There is no mixing with any activator nor lotion.

Dudley's Semi-permanent color line could also be used. I do not know the corresponding color names to achieve the same light brown color, but I do know that their semi-permanent haircolor does deposit a lot of color pigment as well.

For those who want Black semi-permanent color on their resistant, relaxed white hair but have found that the Nairobi color #1 Pure Black semi permanent haircolor only stains the hair. I am going to suggest using all three semi-permanent colors to cancel each other out therefore going dark. When you add medium heat, you should get a black color to deposit.

The individual bottles of Nairobi Tru Colors semi-permanent haircolor work great on pre-lightened hair such as bleached hair or on "sun kissed" hair. However, if you are fighting gray hair and need a corporate neutral black or brown, a medley of color bottles may need to be used.