Creative Loc Color by Benita Blocker

Creative Loc Coloring by Benita Blocker.  

I used my cameraphone to take these snapshots.  I should have used a digital camera to capture the true loc coloring.

We completed the Blonde highlights months ago.

This picture was taken after her gray coverage, but before the red glaze was added.  This was the intermediate phase.  A lot of foiling was required to protect the blonde color.

This is the before picture.  My client required her gray roots to be colored, protect the blonde coloring, but add some red highlights.  As you can see, we maintained her in neutral corporate color scheme.

Gray coverage was achieved at the roots!  We went with the usual light brown color to allow the gray new growth to gradually blend in.

Another view of final creative coloring by Benita Blocker. Reds, blondes, and browns.

She was pleased with her new color scheme and so was I! I used Beth Minardi and Schwarzkoph hair color lines.

Deep Red: Gray Coverage on Relaxed Hair

Healthy Hair by Benita Blocker

Pictured is a Paul Mitchell relaxer service followed by Design Essentials Colaura Semi-Permanent hair color in Passion/Deep Red color.

The client was already reddish copper in  hair color with gray and white hair present as well. I had to apply hair color to the whole head from root to tip to make sure of even color distribution.  I used a brush application.  I conditioned the hair before applying this color because I performed a same day relaxer service.

I did not mix anything with this color.  I used 90% of the new 4 ounce bottle on one medium length, thick head of hair.  Areas of the client's hair that was more 100% gray/white, it had a little "flame" to it, but it was not bad at all.  As long as the hair is not parted in the slightly "flaming" area, then it all blended nicely with the styling.

Mesh and Magnetic Roller Sets with Color Baths

Gray Color Coverage plus Ivory Mesh Roller set by Benita Blocker

Relaxer Touch-up plusYellow Magnetic Roller set by Benita Blocker

This particular client has resistant hair.  Affirm Mild does not break the bonds enough to prevent them from reforming into its original state.  So Affirm Normal is the only relaxer that straighens her without irritating her highly sensitive scalp.  Resistant hair typically hold on to roller parts so it is a lot of work to blend.  We are pleased with her regimen.

Both clients have incredible shine in their final finishes.  It was achieved with Sebastian Cellophone semi-permanent color on my longer hair client in order to tone highlights, and on my medium length client, Dudley Clear semi-permanent color was cocktailed with her treatment.

Roller sets can keep relaxer clients' hair healthy.

Advanced Gray Solution: Light Golden Chestnut

The Clairol Beautiful Collection Advanced Gray Solution line only has five  hair colors to choose from. This line is only recommended for up to 50% gray.  If you are 100% gray/white, then the Light Golden Chestnut color covers the gray with a flaming coppery orange color which is very noticeable!

The good news is that the gray hair is covered without mixing a separate activator lotion nor developer.

The bad news is that the flaming brazzy color is NOT a good look.

The better news is that a violet conditioner such as the AG Sterling Silver conditioner will tone the flaming color down.  You will need an additional 15 minutes under medium heat upon rinsing out the Gray solution.

Clairol Recommendations for their Semi-permanent hair colors:
1) Heat is NOT recommended immediately following a relaxer.  (This tip is for all their "squeeze" bottle semi-permanent hair colors.)

2) Heat is not recommended for use with the Advanced Gray solution.

My tip:
From my own experience for those with more than 50% gray or resistant gray hair, the Advanced Gray solution can go under medium heat for 20 minutes to get coverage.   (NO heat on the same day of a relaxer)

But you need to plan for the extra 15 minutes of conditioning with the violet conditioner to tone the Light Golden Chestnut down.  You do have to rinse the processed color out first before applying the violet conditioner for toning purposes.

I have mentioned in other articles in this blog that some of the darker Advanced Gray Solution hair color can leave a "greenish - ash" color in highlighted ends.  Please see separate articles on this blog to learn more on that topic.

The Advanced Gray Solution is not a good fit for everyone all the time.  You just need to know when to use it especially when the customer does not want a demi-permanent nor permanent hair color.

Design Essentials Colaura Semi Permanent Color Review

Colaura by Design Essentials is a safe semi-permanent hair color, but it does not seem to be long lasting.  The darker colors named "Earth" and "Precision" both eventually fade to a cool (blue or violet) color on gray hair. So initially, it provides adequate gray coverage, but I prefer a hair color to fade to a yellow or brown.

Thus far, I have not found a semi-permanent haircolor to match the old Sebastian Cellophanes semi-permanent haircolor formulas.  The Affirm Moisturcolor semi-permanent haircolors are my best bet thus far for gray coverage on the same day as the relaxers and the fade is warmer than the Colaura brand.

The good thing about the Colaura brand is that it cocktails nicely with conditioners to save a step if a client runs short on time and wants some gray coverage.  I also love the squeeze bottle nozzle design of the Colaura color bottles.  They allow for color application directly to the hair.

Overall, I will not continue with the Colaura color line because I still have Nairobi Semi-permanent TruColors which delivers about the same results.

Review: Affirm MoisturColor Semi-Permanent Hair Color

Well, it's a "thumbs up" for Affirm Moisturcolor Conditioning Semi-Permanent Hair Color.  It does provide adequate coverage for those who need gray coverage on the same day as the relaxer.  It does require a separate step like the Sebastian Cellophanes Deep Brunette color required, but there is no mixing needed.  It is truly an "out of the bottle" haircolor.

Also, the best news is that the "4N" delivers a nice brown highlight to the gray without any brazziness nor gold tones.  The base color is neutral for both the "2N" and the "4N."

The "2N" delivers a darkest brown to natural black effect to the hair.  The "4N" delivers a medium to light brown effect to hair.  The bottles come with expiration dates on them.

I recommend a brush application to avoid oversaturating the scalp. The consistency of this haircolor is slightly runny. Also, the directions read "Shake Well."

Hairstylists and clients do benefit from sharing reviews like this.  Everyone is short on time and money - I strongly encouraged other hairstylists to share discoveries that work.

Have a great Holiday!

Sebastian Cellophanes Color Reformulation

Yes, Sebastian changed their Cellophones color names as well as their ingredients, and guess what?  The new stuff NO longer performs on resistant gray hair.  My only guess is because they removed the wheat protein from the ingredients list.

The Expresso Brown version of the Sebastian Cellophanes seems to be the same color as the Deep Brunette, and the consistency of the product seemed about the same.  The actual deposit of color on gray hair on the same day as relaxer services is a HUGE difference.

I am really looking for another brand of same day  as relaxers semi-permanent color because literally, I had one of my clients ask me did I switch color lines.  Sadly and honestly, I revealed to her that Sebastian had reformulated their color line and apparently it does not deliver the same gray coverage that the old formula  (Deep Brunette) did.

What a dissappointment!  25 minutes processing and no adequate coverage.  Situations like this complicates my business.  Sebastian has officially lost a customer (me).

Shaven Legs: Learning about Hair Growth

Have you ever shaved your legs and felt stubble by the next day?  That's proof that your hair does grow.  If you are fighting gray hair, then that would also explain that the new growth of gray hair is a never ending battle to keep covered.

Now, let's take the discussion even farther, if you never shave your legs, would you grow a ponytail full of hair on your legs?  No, for some reason, the length does stop growing on the legs based on individual genetics.

Most stylists will say "cutting your hair" does not make it grow, but I have found that if there is a patch of hair that is not growing; if you cut it back, then it does spawn hair growth.  Hair on your head can reach unlimited length without regard to hair type.  One has to learn to work with their hair versus against it.

Also, for many, the side or patch of hair that you want to grow out is on the side that you do not want to lose any more hair length. So a good cut is usually a great idea if you want to try a shorter look, but it is not an option for someone longing for length.  Adding some hair extensions to support the style may be a good option.  If the hair is growing, but it is breaking at the ends, then one must determine what is causing the breakage in order to gain length.  Cutting breaking hair may help with style, but it will not resolve the breakage problem.

Identify the breakage factor, cut the hair into a healthy style, and either wear new look or add  hair extensions to enhance the old look.

So that's a lot to learn from shaving legs . . .