Lock Buds: Remove Them or Not?

Some locticians remove these buds that sometimes form at the end of locks. The buds are actually welcomed by others because they mean the hair is not going to unravel out of the locking framework. Sometimes lock clients will remove these buds without the loctician's permission because they (the client) don't like them.

Pictured are some of the buds that I saved from my lock tightening with my third Sisterlocks certified consultant. She went through ripping as many of the buds off of my locks as she could.  I did not request this type of lock grooming, but she insisted that the buds are not supposed to be there.  I lost some length because of her ripping them off with her hands.  In hindsight, I realized that she should have just went through with shears and snipped what she wanted removed.

Now, jumping forward to present day, most of my locks have coiled back up and formed buds again.  Why?  I believe that it is my hair's natural behavior to "roll up and park."  So removing the buds at the end of locks where the client's hair naturally coils into itself is a waste of time and money.  

There are exceptions.  If the buds are too large to feed through the root of the lock without ripping the whole lock out of the head during an interlock tightening then the bud needs to be trimmed or reshaped to maintain the integrity of the lock.

Lock grooming is usually a separate session from the tightening session.

Also, I think the budding at the end of the locks are more synonymous with the interlocking method versus the twisting of locks.  The interlocking method actually uncoils the hair allowing the shedded strands to drop down the locking framework of the lock and rest at the ends.

As for me, I am okay with my buds at my ends.  Some may fall off on their own.  If not, it is all good with me!

One Year Locks Anniversary: Raw Honey Retightening

 July 24, 2012 was my Sisterlocks birth date.  July 24, 2013 marked my (dread) locks one year anniversary.  What a journey?  God has the Master Plan.  Because my Sisterlocks are not super small, I have began to convert my tightening method to finger twisting.  I have been using all natural aloe based gels and natural oils because apparently, based on my interviews, all those "twist and lock gels" have by-products that can cause build-up on your locks.

People with the healthiest locks are the only ones that I am interviewing, and some people only use shea butter and olive oil.  No gels at all.

I like the idea of using natural products for my locked hair.  I also realized that with the Sisterlocks being an interlocking technique that it seems to "uncoil" my natural hair pattern.  My finger twisting seen to have been in vain the last few self-tightening sessions because my hair kept unwinding until reaching the interlocked area of the lock.  So out of desperation to secure my new growth from unwinding, I decided to try the "Sweet Locks" approach using honey.  I purchased local raw honey.

I poured the honey in a disposable container.  I tasted it too.  Delicious!  Based on my research, one lady said "bees make honey from nectar, not honey from honey."  So far, no bees have been buzzing around me, but if I sweat too much I may attract some flies. Smile.  The honey seems to be holding the new growth in place. I will probably continue using the honey for my tightening until the locks get trained to coil and stay, then I will go back to the lightweight aloe vera gels.

Please note: Add an hour or more to your tightening time when using honey. So I believe it took me about 4.5 hours versus 3 hours this last self tightening session.

I used the French Perm Stabilizer Plus as my final conditioner.  It is an acidic rinse, and according to reviews, it silkens natural hair.  The foamming action was great. It left my locks soft.

It is designed to be a post-relaxer conditioner. pH is 2.5.  You do have to rinse it out. I purchased it from Sally's Beauty Supply for about $5.00 USD.  I will probably write a separate article on this conditioner at a later date.

Also, on a separate note, I have done articles about comb twisting locks, but now, I believe, only starter locks make sense to comb twist.  The finger twisting technique seems to be the best tightening technique for me.  I will continue to update you on my lock journey . . . until next time.

Hair Focus at 2013 Justice for Trayvon Protests

Zimmerman was found "not guilty" after using the Florida "Stand your Ground" law to justify profiling and killing an unarmed Black youth named Trayvon Martin.  This acquittal has caused an uproar on the scale of when O.J. Simpson was acquitted for the murder of his wife.  Protests nationwide were held to voice the widespread dismay in the verdict.  One of my friends active in protest organization captured this brother with his dreadlocks in fishtail braids.  Nice.  He definitely has a very dense head of hair.  The fishtails look great!

Texturized hair: Before and After

One of my clients decided on texturizing services for her hair in order to get a "wash and go" effect.  In the picture, the two different curl patterns came from the same client.  Which curl pattern do you like best?

The curl pattern on the left is her natural curl pattern with some demi-permanent haircoloring. The one on the right was texturized with Fiberguard Affirm Mild relaxer for about 10 to 12 minutes.  The real lesson is this:  If your natural curl pattern does not look like the curl pattern on the left hand side of the picture, then you are not going to get the texturized curl pattern on the right hand side of the picture.

So for all those "kiddie perms" that people buy hoping for the "perfect" curl pattern.  Just remember that your finished product really is determined by the type of curl pattern that you start with.

For some people the curl pattern on the left hand side may be the final texturized results based on a  kinkier, coily curl pattern from the start.  With this being the case,  paying for a texturizing service may be a waste of time if you are still wanting the curl pattern on the right.  These are the cases where I really would love for people to embrace locks.  Even consider microlocks without investing heavily into the proprietary Sisterlocks.

There is another blogger at junglebarbie.blogspot.com that I absolutely adore . . .  traditional locks can be so beautiful!

Chenille Stems versus Fuzzy Sticks for Spiral Curls

Chenille Stems are also known as pipe cleaners.  The Fuzzy Sticks that I picked up from a Walmart store are very similar.  The biggest difference is that the wire in the "Fuzzy Sticks" is much more pliable.  It is very easy to bend and mold.  The chenille stems that I bought from a fabric store are also bendable, but more stiff  to do so.

Apparently, using these chenille stems are the best way to get spiral sets on long locks.  There are youtube videos on various ways to roll your locks on these.  These chenille stems/pipe cleaners/fuzzy sticks can be used similar to flexi-rods or "Lock Loops" or "Soft Spikes."  Please see my separate blog article on these other lock styling tools.

The pipe cleaners are soft enough to sleep in, and if you get the color matching your hair color, you may be able to incorporate them into a hairstyle to be worn out.  Long locks can easily hide these stems while wearing them in a bob set.

Another blogger has a detailed article about how she used the pipe cleaners to curl her twisted hair at http://thehodgepodgefiles.blogspot.com/2011/10/pipe-cleaner-curls-on-mini-twists.html

She mentions using pipe cleaners to curl loose natural hair is NOT a good idea.

A Lesson about Hair Length

There are four chenille stems pictured. They represent hair strands in different curl patterns.  Which chenille stem is the longest?  The third one from the left?  The fourth one?  Which one looks the shortest?  The second one from the left?

Okay, some of you probably guessed the answer . . . .  all four chenille stems are the exact same length.  Can you believe it?  The shortest chenille stem measures under 2 inches, but the straight chenille stem measures 12 inches.  That is 10 inches difference which mean hair shrinkage is almost at 85%.  50% shrinkage of anything is a lot.  Can you imagine 85% shrinkage?

So when people comment on how short someone's hair is . . . do they really know the true length? Probably not unless you straighten it.  Then you can compare "apples to apples."


My Sisterlocks at 8 months curled with perm rods.



A detailed look of one of my Sisterlocks at 8 months with relaxed ends still intact.  As far as curly length goes, I am only visually seeing about an inch and a half of growth in the last 7 months, but I know that if my curly hair was straightened then it should measure about 3.5 inches longer.  This long locks journey is going to take me about four years versus two years based on what I am seeing.  I am definitely mentally preparing for the long haul.

Certain Hair Types can Break Easy

I remember hearing a hairstylist say that some hair just doesn't grow.  After nine years of hairstyling, I can definitely say "This statement is NOT true;" however,  I do believe that some hair types have a hard time gaining length.  Remember "gaining length" and "growing" are two different things.

Everyone can see hair growth from the root/scalp area, but if the ends are continuously breaking and are being continuously trimmed,  then no, you will not see any significant gains in length.

After completing a consultation with a local loctician, she explained to me that she recommends the hair steamer to condition traditional locks, but not interlocks/sisterlocks.  She felt the hair steamer would interfere with the interlocks/sisterlocks from locking properly by loosening them up. She did mention that traditional locks can break at the ends if they do not stay hydrated.  I was amazed that withOUT any chemical in the hair, some hair textures will just naturally dry out and break.  Wow!

I also remember my first Sisterlocks consultant mentioning that she had two daughters.  Both went natural, but only one decided to get Sisterlocks.  She noticed that the daughter with the natural free flowing hair did NOT gain length as quickly as the daughter with Sisterlocks.

In addition, I have an associate of mine that has worn her hair free flowing and natural for three years, and I have not seen any real change in hair length over the years.  I mentioned to her that straightening her hair in order to trim it is probably damaging it.  She did discontinue the full straightening process, and it looks healthier and has gain some more length, but overall, no mind-blowing gains in length at all.

Apparently, the interlocking/sisterlocking provides "strength in numbers" by the hairs supporting each other.  This is another reason why I decided not to transition into traditional locks.  I also decided to focus on making sure my hair get some sort of moisture misting for routine maintenance.

It is just so amazing that without any relaxer nor haircolor, my highly textured hair can be prone to break according to the loctician.  Luckily, it is still growing and gaining length.  I am due for my next retightening soon with my third consultant. We have hashed out our expectations; so I anticipate that she is going to be a good fit.  I will update everyone soon!

Five Curl patterns Comparisons

I provide hair cutting services to a diverse clientele from Indian to Hispanic to White (hair type not shown here) to African American.  I have been taking the time to save some of the hair clippings  or hair left in the shampoo bowl to study and compare curl patterns.

Two Type 2 curl patterns are shown here.  I also have two Type 4 curl patterns shown.  I can see how a person with type 3 curl pattern could feel the need to relax their hair occasionally when compared to a Type 2 curl pattern.

Type 4 curl patterns must understand that there is no texturizer that will elongate their curl pattern into a type 2 nor type 3.  Most people with type 4 curl patterns are trained to relax their curl pattern to have a straighter look.  However, by looking at the type 4 curl pattern in comparison to the other patterns, it is clear to see that if relaxers are designed to seek after every curvature, it literally would be attacking the type 4 curl pattern viciously.  Even to "flat iron" type 4 hair seems that it would "press" the "curls" in versus straightening it out.  It is clear to see that locking type 4 curl patterns would be the healthiest, simpliest hair styling option, but many women are not ready to give up their "creamy crack."  They enjoy their straight edges because that is what they are accustomed despite the known toxicity of the chemical relaxers.

Women have to continue to evaluate their hair goals on a quarterly basis.  No one has to get relaxer services, but in order to "manage" certain hair types without locking it, the relaxer is the most trusted option.

Resistant hair: No Match for Relaxers plus Length

 So everyone is familiar with the different hair types being Type 1 through Type 4 with subcategories of a, b, and c.  Now, let's take the discussion one step farther . . .  Resistant versus Non-resistant.  Someone with a Type 4c curl pattern may have a finer and less resistant behavior than another individual with a Type 4c curl pattern who has a coarser, more resistant behavior.  So both people can have similar curl patterns, but the texture of the strands may dictate its resistance behavior and shrinkage behavior.

 This miniature "slinky" represents a "resistant" hair type.  When elongated, it naturally wants to spring back into its original condensed form.  This "resistant" hair behavior is excellent for locking because it likes to coil around everything in its path.  Extensions, braids, etc.   However, to straighten or relax this type of resistant hair, the relaxer has to work very hard to soften the bonds to rearrange them not to behave in its natural behavior.  Sometimes a mild strength relaxer is not strong enough to straighten a resistant hair type, but the toxic dangers to the scalp remain the same.  Alopecia and thickening of the scalp can results from prolonged relaxer exposure in an attempt to straighten resistant hair.

To test your resistance of your natural hair, just pull a strand of elongated hair from your head or comb and  drop it in a clear cup of water.  If there is no product or oils on it, then you should be able to see the hair strand do one of two things.   1) Either it will very slowly start to coil and shrink within a few minutes or 2) it will quickly coil and shrink at the "speed of light" like in two seconds.

If it is "speedy" then the hair is resistant.  If it is "slow" to coil, then it is non-resistant.  Non-resistant hair can grow long with the use of mild relaxers, but it may be harder to lock because of potential unravelling.

Now, resistant, coarse hair, is very difficult to grow long using relaxers.  Locks will grow it long, but relaxer and other straightening services will become a battle between style and health.  If a person with resistant hair can manage to style their hair for 8 to 10 weeks at a time in between relaxer touch-ups, then long length is possible.  However, most women with resistant, coarse hair can not get past their hairline becoming kinky within the five weeks period.

Decisions, Decisions.  Food for thought for those sitting on the fence about what to do next with your hair.

Most African Americans do not have African hair!

As far as the former Confederates States of America's territory goes, I do not know how many "mixed babies" were born to the slave women on the plantations, but clearly, since arriving on the slave ships from Africa, African Americans are more American than they are African when it comes to their hair texture.

Pictured is Kenya Moore, former pageant winner, current cast member of the Real Housewives of Atlanta.  Yes, I believe that this is all of Kenya Moore's hair without any hair extensions.  She has historically had long, luscious hair.  But . . .  her natural pattern is probably around a type 3 versus a type 4.  I consider a Type 4 curl pattern more of an African curl pattern.  If anyone of true African descent want to comment on my categorizing of African hair, then please feel free to comment.  I have never taken a trip to Africa; so I do not know any more than what I know through media coverage over the decades.

However, I have been providing hair care services to the public for about ten years.  I have seen all types of hair textures and hair curl patterns.  I am willing to say that 75% of Black women have hair that is mixed with some other race besides Africa.  Most Black women do NOT have what I consider true African hair.  Most Black women want a relaxer to enhance style; however,  most Black women do NOT need a relaxer.

 Now for the 25% of the Black women who do have more African textured, coily hair, who do need some form of healthy management of their hair are not being catered to by the ethnic haircare lines.   Most of the "Black haircare" caters to the 75% of the Black women who have mixed hair up to about a Type 4a curl pattern.





Just as I was concluding how many ethnic haircare lines do NOT cater to tightly coiled curl patterns, I was graciously given a 2013 calendar from a ethnic haircare line which only  showcases one Black model with hair that looks like it is more African textured.  One model out of twelve . . . Do you see her on the top row in the center?  So that is not even a 10 percentile.  Wow!

So ladies with extremely tight curl patterns, the relaxer application process as it is now is not catered to you. I am just being honest.  I have been trying to design a tool to better apply the relaxer to hair whose new growth compounds at the scalp, but it is not finished yet.

Anyway, for those who are willing to try Sisterlocks, or other locking procedures, it is the best option for those that do not fit into that 75% of Blacks that have mixed hair textures.  I know - locks are hard to digest when working in a corporate, political world, but this message is worth consideration.

Why Black Women are Scared of SisterLocks!

"My man wants to be able to run his hands through my hair like the White women hair."
With SisterLocks, you finger style 100% of the time. The longer your SisterLocks get the more you and your significant others can run their hands through. SisterLocks are micro-locks; therefore, they are much smaller than many of the traditional locks.

"People don't keep their locks well groomed in this area."
SisterLocks are typically a home based hair service. Only State Board licensed professionals can operate out of a commercial salon location. So many people are cautious about bringing new people to their home. New SisterLock clients almost need to be by "referral only" when Consultants are working from their home. This fact almost limits "chair hopping," but it means people have limited choices in order to get their retightenings done. Luckily with me being a licensed cosmetologist working out of a licensed salon, people can feel like they have more options in my area. Also, people mentioned that they do not like seeing the afro at the roots of people's locks. This is a neglect in grooming. It could be lack of time or money to go regularly.

"It seems so permanent."
You can grow out of locks just like you grow out of a relaxer. You have to let your new growth go free without retightening it in order to cut the lock down to about 3 inches, and then start detangling it. SisterLocks are no more permanent than a relaxer.

"I need to be able to wash my hair every week."
You can wash and go everyday with SisterLocks! Only in the starter stage of SisterLocks, shampooing is tricky because you do not want them loosening up and becoming undone.

"People like long, straight, hair on me better."
You can still wear full wigs when you have to have a more European straight look for performances, videos, and pictures.

"Do you keep adding extensions to them every time you get them retightened?"
There are NO EXTENSIONS added to SisterLocks. Your hair grows out of your scalp. The new growth is "tightened" into the rest of your SisterLock. Your hair continues to grow out as it would normally with relaxed hair.

"It takes too long for them to grow out!"
Sisterlocks are not for the weak in spirit.  You do need thick skin to bare through the criticism from the European straight mentality of corporate America.  Some people will consider adding loc extensions because they need a crutch to give them maximum loc styling.  It takes a good two years from a big chop in order to get somewhat comfortable with medium length locs.  This is the only reasonable excuse for delaying your loc decision until your support system and your workplace can handle your loc journey.

"I want to have the versatility to blowdry and flat iron my hair straight."
SisterLocks are small enough to use "hot rollers," curling irons, and flat irons. The SisterLocks need to be dry first of course. However, blowdrying is not a time efficient option. A hooded dryer would be needed with a wet set. But for last minute touch-ups, heat appliances can be used.