The need for Titanium plate flat irons

Three flat irons with different plates:  Ceramic, Titanium, and Porcelain.

I just added the titanium plated flat iron for coaser and resistant hair. With so many people receiving smoothing treatments, flat irons are required to prevent stripping the smoothing treatment from the hair.

Hair with a lot of shrinkage benefits from the heat stability of the titanium plates 

even without the smoothing treatment.

(Full transformation on Instagram.)

Three Reasons for the Shrinking Black HairCare industry!

Flat Irons
When the electric, ionic flat irons took over the market,  they evened the playing field.  Everyone with or without a hair license had the ability to deliver salon styling results.

Remember the conventional stoves and marcel irons?  How about the pressing comb?  Those tools required practice and skills.  Everyone could not work the conventional hot tools.  The Black hairstylist had the competitive edge on Black hairstyling prior to the flat irons.

Salon Suites
When salon suites started making salon ownership affordable, hairstylists flocked to independence, but hairstylists stopped learning from each other.  "Divide and conquer" is exactly what happened.  Then YouTube took over.  Everyone with or without a hair license began learning from each other on an international level.

The "perfect hair" movement redefined
People have always wanted "perfect hair" despite the weather and the workouts.  However, one can not control the humidity and sweat without a lot of spritz, holding spray, hairspray, gel, or some styling aids. Over the last decade, people decided against a lot of "frozen hairstyling."  They wanted softer, flowing hair that could withstand the weather and an active lifestyle so wigs, extensions, weaves, and protective styling became mainstay.

Nowadays, many salon clients shampoo and condition their hair before going to the salon.  The Black salon in 2016 has become the place for protective styling application or braiding.  Many Black hair salons in 2016 are less about hair care as well as less about hair products.  However, around hundred years ago, it is interesting that Madame C. J. Walker started her business with hair products and expanded her business into hair services.

Black hair - Freedom or Slavery?  Are we controlling our hair or being controlled by our hair? Are we becoming the "Stepford Wives" or just simply expressive? You decide.

I look forward to 2017.

My Reasons to Justify Leaving the Hair Industry

Correction

I deleted an article last week because I stated that Paul Mitchell had removed the panthenol from their Extra Body hairspray, but I was wrong.  Paul Mitchell actually added more panthenol to this spray but also added more dimethicone according to the revised ingredient list.  Regardless, the formula of the hairspray has been altered under the same name within the last three years.  I have tried to get away from hair products with heavy dimethicone in its ingredients.  I find them to eventually cause dryness to the hair.

So as you can guess that one of my biggest reasons for wanting to leave the hair industry is that the hair products keep changing on us.  

We as hairstylists can not deliver consistent final finishes to our clients when the products that we use are being altered without our knowledge.

Other Product changes

Sebastian changed its Cellophanes Semi-permanent hair colors a year ago.  Thank God that they really made the hairstylists aware of the new changes, but the new formula does NOT give the same coverage that the old formula provided. 

 I have tried about five other product lines trying to get the coverage that Sebastian Cellophanes used to deliver, and I have not found a replacement yet.  It is so frustrating to have to constantly look for product alternatives because "something stopped working."  We as hairstylists can not control these product changes.  The manufacturers just shove the changes down our throats, and we are forced to try other product lines.   I have seen unannounced formula changes in shampoos, conditioners, sculpting foams, hairspray, semi-permanent hair colors and more.

Paraben-Free is NOT "Going Green!"

Paraben-Free products definitely have cause some landfill waste.  While "no preservatives" sound healthy for the hair, the shelf life is so short that I am scared to buy paraben free products now because I have no idea when they were manufactured.  After a year, paraben-free products seem to start to lose their effectiveness. 

Expiring in the Warehouse

In addition, with the hair trends changing, some products don't move as often and are getting old in the warehouses before they are even shipped out to the stores for retail sale.  Expiration dates really need to be placed on all beauty products.  I suppose if everyone started calling the companies to find out the manufacture dates based the batch codes listed on the products, then they would began to provide more disclosure in the age of the products.  Even old relaxers and other chemicals are just sitting on shelves waiting for the uninformed consumer to buy.

Yeah, someone is thinking: "I will just sue whomever for selling me old product."  But do you know how long it takes to get a court hearing?  Unless there is a class action, your one bad experience may not get much exposure.

We as Product Police

So between ingredient changes and old products floating around, we as hairstylists are now having to police everything we purchase so that no one is surprised at the final results.

Now, in addition to the "Product Policing," we have to be cautious of new trends that are damaging to the hair.

Trends to be Caution of:

1. Ammonia-free haircolor - some people believe the ammonia-free alternative chemical used can be just as damaging as real ammonia because it is harder to shampoo out of the hair.
2. No-lye relaxers - all relaxers have some sort of lye derivative or alternative chemical that is just as potentially damaging to the hair and/or scalp as real sodium hydroxide.  Sometimes these derivatives leave "byproducts" lingering in the hair that have to be clarified out later.
3. Flat Irons - these tools delivered shine and movement to the hair that seemed "too good to be true."  Guess what?  It was  too good to be true.  The ionic flat irons were actually compromising the internal integrity of the hair resulting in a lot of breakage months or years later.
4. Keratin or Smoothing Treatments - these keratin treatments were designed to help balance all of the flat iron breakage, but they required flat ironing the hair to infuse the treatments into the hair.  The heat applied to the keratin solutions in some brands caused formaldehyde gas to form endangering everyone's respiratory system.

Should I even go on?  You get the idea . . . everything new is not always good for everyone.

License Renewal

Now, let me also mention that I just renewed my Georgia Master Cosmetologist license and guess what? I have to pay an extra fee to get a hard copy of my license to display.  What the heck?

Product value

And I forgot to mention that product pricing is increasing as the ingredients are getting cheaper and the sizes are getting smaller.

Value of the hair profession?

In addition, women will spend $1000.00 on a handbag that they can get more long-term compliments versus a hairstyle that is disposable. 

Then there are many people who do not view hairstylists as state board certified professionals in the same league as physicians, attorneys, dentists - so paying someone huge bucks in a profession where it is not required to have a Bachelors, Masters, or Doctorate degree is not embraced.  However, physicians, attorneys, dentists, and other celebrities rely on "hair professionals" to keep their money making image complete.

The corporate ladder

In the hairstyling field, I have not seem a corporate ladder to climb.  Hairstylists have to network and continue to re-invent themselves to attract new clients and retain the existing clients.  It is always a hustle. I know that Corporate America has its own set of politics, and the "pink slip" can be waving around an unsuspected corner, but vacation pay, insurance benefits, and sick time can provide relief from the constant hustle to keep a steady revenue flow when the nature of most businesses are "feast or famine."

While I do not have definite plans for leaving the hair industry, it is a thought.  I have salary requirements.  I respect ownership and submission.  I believe in team effort.  I believe in advancing a company's bigger picture.

What do I see for the future of the hair industy?  Traditional salons will be coming back.  Those styling studio suites are a dead-end without building a team that can make you money while you are absent. For those who have a full-time corporate career, the styling studio suites are a professional setting to bring a limited clientele to be serviced, but the weekly pricing for part-time usage may not be practical.

Teaching?

People have asked me about teaching cosmetology, and I admit that I know that I would be good at it, but I do not think that the teachers' pay in North Carolina coincides with my salary demands.

Hanging in there!

For now, I am NOT going anywhere.  I still have plenty of articles to write and post.  I also have a good clientele base. It is always good to take inventory of one's own "state of the union." 

The Comeback: The stove and Marcel Irons!

Ebony Magazine September 2012 edition showcases a photo shoot with a stylist using a marcel curling iron in hand. Halleujah! The flat irons are finally coming under fire! One of my clients mentioned that the Dr. Oz show had a dermatologist confirming the dangers of flat iron usage within the last few months.

Also, in this recent 2012 advertisement for professional ear protectors, the stove, pressing comb, and marcel irons are side by side of the ionic flat irons! Hello! Finally, my beauty industry colleagues are seeing the light!

By the way, would you pay $20.00 USD for these Mimi's Ear Shields?

Turning a 45 cent investment into a 45 dollar return

You may be wondering what does a stamp have to do with hair? Well, it is a long story . . . As you know, I have been "flat iron free" for about a year and a half now - and it has been the best decision for both me and my clients that stuck with me.

Well, before I went "flat iron free" I had a client that swore that the flat iron was not healthy for her hair. I was not ready to believe this. All the hair shows were pushing "flat irons" as healthy. So eventually, she discontinued patronizing my salon. Her words as with all of my clients' feedback stuck in my head.

After finally seeing a consistent pattern of results from the use of the ionic flat irons, I stopped using them and went back to the traditional stove and marcel irons. Oh boy, I still had a learning curve to get used to the old school stove and heat, but finally, I got my rhythm and everyone is back on the right track with their hair. I am so happy of my decision and now, I cringe every time I see a flat iron being used on television or youtube video. All I am thinking is: "they are cooking their hair from the inside out" and they do not even know it. It pains me, but life will go on.

So one day recently, I decided to write this former client a nice little thank you note saying "You were right!" The flat irons are damaging to the hair. I was not ready to receive the information back then, but I sincerely appreciated her feedback. I was listening to her, and I just wanted her to know that I appreciated her past patronage.

Well, believe it or not, she came back for hair services over and over again. It turns out that she had just received a relaxer that was too strong, and she knew that I was the only hairstylist that kept a variety of treatments and product lines for all the different hair types. She was asking God for a sign of what to do next, and my "thank you" letter arrived in her mailbox.

God works in mysterious ways. After about five to six visits, her hair is back on track, and we both are happy. I hate that I was not able to fulfill her hair needs during my "flat iron" phase, but no one is perfect. I thrive for perfection, and as far as the changes that I continue to make in improving my service offerings . . . I am now on a million dollar track. Of course, I am dependent on manufacturers not to alter their products, and that I make sure I keep fresh product, but life is good in my hair world . . . a salute to healthy hair!

Texture Talk: SisterLocks Consideration

I decided NOT to perform a relaxer touch-up, but I want to give people what they want to know: So how is my hair doing? LOL! So I am pouring it all out in this article.

First of all, most hairstylists do NOT have my kinky, wiry type of hair. So they typically do not know how to handle this type of hair. Can you see my line of demarcation? My last relaxer touch-up was about five months ago. You can see the thicker density of hair at the roots and about two inches out. Then it is thinner density where the relaxed hair starts. (I have another picture later to explain this better.) Also, I actually think that the front quadrant of my hair is type 4b, the back above my occupital bone is type 4c, and my nape area below my occiptial bone is a type 4a. Three different textures, but back to my initial point . . .

So secondly, I have purchased a "cruise ship" worth of products over twenty years without regard to price, and I am convinced that the 2 million product lines on the market have no idea how to work with my type of hair. I literally have to eat a meal and do body stretches before I start to tackle my hair. When "sistas" feel that they want to just "cut it all off" - I know exactly how they feel. (and I am an active licensed cosmetologist in three states and feel the exact same way.) Unfortunately, my huge forehead and fat jaws are not going to pull off a "crew cut." Also, the products on the market are still not for kinky, wiry hair.

My sideview: So almost an hour later, I have my hair flat twisted. Those relaxed ends gave me "hell." I did not condition because the shampoo seemed to soften and detangle enough. I shampooed with Bee Mine Botanical Moisturizing Shampoo as my final shampoo. I had to use Paul Mitchel Shampoo one and KeraCare First Lather Sulfate-free shampoos initially to get all the extra hairdressing washed out. Then I used Design Essentials Defining Creme Gel to twist. These twists are still wet. The texture between the new growth and the relaxed hair looks about the same. Now, I have to sit under the dryer for at least another hour . . .

My Backview. I have not captured the backview in awhile. Remember, my hair is wet in this picture. I still have to go under the dryer.

Okay, look closely here! My flat twists are now dry. Can you see the new growth clearer now? Honestly, the relaxed ends are still the core hair that is still twisted. The relaxed hair did NOT want to dry. Because there is such a big difference between my relaxed hair and my new growth, I really need two different setting agents. The Creme gel really is too heavy to dry my relaxed hair, and if I used a lighterweight product, then it would not be heavy enough for my new growth. Remember I mentioned "SisterLocks" in my subject? Well, SisterLocks do NOT require you to cut off your relaxed hair. They can start sisterlocking one and a half inches at the roots and leave the relaxed hair alone. So my protective styling has got me to another milestone to do something different. Yay!!!

So about three hours later, my finished style with transitional hair. Way too much work . . . way too much time . . . and I had to make it into this style. So why not relax it? I have been really meditating on this. I have had quite a few setbacks in my life: Ionic Flat irons -HUGE SETBACK! Permanent haircolor - my type of hair does not need two permanent chemicals in it! Relaxing too often - I have seen too much scalp damage out there! So for those of us who can not get a comb through our hair at the five week mark - what do you do? Okay, those with "finer" strands but same curl pattern will find that mild relaxers will straighten their hair to their content. However, medium to coarse hair need a stronger strength to straighten the hair strand, but stronger relaxer strengths are NOT good for the scalp. So people say do not put in on the scalp. With curl patterns that coil back on itself, the scalp is going to get relaxer on it. For those whose hair grows away from the scalp, thank your Higher power. Your hair is easier to part and to comb through.

So as you can see another backview, you can not see my scalp- right? Well, I will say that I am not looking forward to sisterlocks because I will be forever tied to a SisterLock technician. However, I am over 40 years old now, and I really feel that relaxers and my scalp have come to the crossroads. I can not continue to subject my scalp to damage then wait for it to recover. One day it is not going to recover. I have seen enough pictures and images in my head to know the future if I continue in my same path.

In the days of Madame C J Walker, the beauty industry was offering the "hair growers" showcasing fair-skinned Black women. Our kinky head sisters were afraid of those "relaxers" back then and that is why the "press and curl" and the "Walker hair cosmetics" were embraced. The art of press and curl is getting lost. The pressing combs are made differently now. Even the high end pressing combs by Kizure and Golden Supreme all are made differently. Please see my other articles on pressing combs. I would consider going to a press and curl, but my natural hair is resistant to heat straightening, and I do not want it burnt out. It has been about twenty years since I met a hairstylist that knew the art of press and curling without the heaviness and the right amount of heat to temporary straighten the hair without damaging it. I do not remember her name, but she was close to the Clemson, Easley, South Carolina area. After 20 years, who knows where she is now.

So in conclusion, I desire to keep a European professional look for the corporate setting. So I want a straighter look without a relaxer, the Sisterlocks are smaller than dreadlocks. I have seen a lot of pictures of SisterLocks. Please note that sisters with slightly looser textures get sisterlocks and they look absolutely fabulous. For those of us with kinky, wiry textures, our Sisterlocks may have a little more frizz as they mature, but you still will have more freedom of style without the chemicals. Also, sisterlocks do not require any pomades. They use a tool to lock the hair.

Well, you may ask whether or not, I will become a Sisterlock technician? I do not plan to. I really feel like most women in the Carolinas do not want to pay for the SisterLock service. The initial investment is steep and time consuming and if you are starting your hair over, it will be short in length.

Most women will rather pay $500 on a few long sew-ins weave services before they spend that much money for a short, kinky hairdo. Patience is key. It takes two years to start enjoying the length of sisterlocks, but at least you can keep your relaxed ends while the roots are growing out. They will look like invisible braids, but it will be your own hair.

I will keep your posted. For now, I am going to continue playing around with my wigs until I find a certified Sisterlock technician that is not going to kill my tenderhead!

Hair Review: First Lady Michelle Obama

Photo credit: More magazine October 2008 (Historical photos and flipped hairstyle)

Clearly, the beautiful, First Lady Michelle Obama has a type 4 curl pattern judging by her beautiful afro in her graduation picture. (source: More, October 2008)

Clearly, during the months surrounding the Inauguration of her husband, she wore her hair very sleek, straight, and with a lot of movement. The ionic flat iron was more than likely used to achieve these looks of uninhibited movement. (source: People magazine, Special Oscar Guide 2009 Inauguration Trendsetter photos)

However, at what cost? As my followers know, I am totally against the ionic flat irons because of the long term damage that they cause. I had been following Michelle Obama's hairstyles for years because I knew that if she continued the flat iron hairstyling that she would be continuously fighting breakage and potential shedding. Photo credit: Flipped hairstyle photo came from More magazine, October 2008.

Photo credit: People magazine March 9, 2009 (Pink outfit), Better Homes and Gardens magazine August 2011 (yellow sweater), Ladies Home Journal magazine September 2010 (bluegreen dress), More Magazine February 2012 (red outfit).

She can select updos and other protective styling to allow the hair to grow out, but ultimately, as long as she continues to be styled with an ionic flat iron, she will not stabilize past her current length which looks to be chin length at the side burns area.

During the late 2008 and early 2009 timeframe, her side burns area was below chin length and in a bob hairstyle.




The length of her hair in bluegreen dress (September 2010) is the same or possibly longer than her length in February 2012 (More magazine) in red attire. In summary, a year or more later and her hair is the same length or shorter and possibly thinner. It looks to be layered more than her traditional bob hairstyle. Layers can give thinner hair more body.

Many people do not want to believe that the ionic flat iron is causing damage because it takes potentially years for the damage to show up.

Also, the flat iron manufacturers market the flat irons for shine, smoothness, and repair. However, when the damage from extended flat ironing over the years finally presents itself, it will be an on-going fight until the damaged hair is trimmed away and the ionic flat irons are no longer used on the hair that is not as damaged.

Michelle Obama's hairstyle is neat and beautiful, but clearly she has been losing length. This may be on purpose or possibly not. I am offering food for thought. Pictures are worth a thousand words.

Photo credits: Entertainment Weekly magazine Special Oscars Guide 2009 (Inauguration year photos), More magazine October 2008 (Historical photos and flipped hairstyle) , People magazine March 9, 2009 (Pink outfit), Better Homes and Gardens magazine August 2011 (yellow sweater), Ladies Home Journal magazine September 2010 (bluegreen dress), More Magazine February 2012 (red outfit)

DVD Review: Paul Mitchell Texture

I have so much to say that I do not know where to begin. Okay. First of all, the Black female demonstration model has closer to Type 3 curl pattern by my visual definition. Now remember all the articles that I have written in the past couple of months? Type 3 curl pattern can withstand more abuse than Type 4 curl pattern. So with that said, let me tell you, this Black model received the Paul Mitchell Regular relaxer along with the PM Shines demi-permanent color service followed by a round-brush blow-dry service followed by a Paul Mitchell flat iron service all in one salon visit. Hello! Relaxer plus "color with peroxide" plus aggressive blowdry plus flat iron . . . . now, you know . . . the model's hair looks great on this advertisement, but the styling team was going for style more than healthy hair.

If this model had type 4 curl pattern, her hair would not have had that much body. Also, the hair would be shedding and breaking from intensity of the chemicals and heat. Please see my other article on demi-permanent color rules for type 4 curl patterns.

Other DVD details include: PM Shines is a demi-permanent color that has to be mixed. Also, the round brush that was used was aluminum one similar to the one pictured in this article. They used Paul Mitchell Extra Strong leave-in treatment and "Super Sculpt" styling lotion aid in the round brush blow-dry. The handheld dryer and flat iron were both Paul Mitchell ProTools.

I have watched this DVD many times over the years, and it is only recently with my new vision that I really see how Black hairstylists are being mislead.

Paul Mitchell is a well respected name for professional haircare. It is scary to realize that the steps to create beautiful Black hair for one Black woman may be detrimental to the next Black woman. Good Hairstylists just want to do well. How do you filter through the good and the bad? Smile. Follow my blog. Smile.

My opinion of this DVD on Paul Mitchell Texture: Get this DVD just to check it out for yourself - I do not agree with everything in this DVD - but there is always some good information along with the bad in the "bigger picture." Happy New Year!

New Flat irons are at the $20 USD range

Do you remember paying $150 to $200 US Dollars for a ceramic, ionic flat iron? Were you really paying for a lightweight microwave attached to two heated plates? I believe that you can purchase a microwave to cook food at about $100. So maybe the beauty industry finally realizes that the indirect heat of the ionic flat irons were destroying too much hair? Notice the word "new" on the Revlon SmoothStay titanium plate flat iron packaging pictured? Titanium plates have proven to be smoother to run down the hair strand than the ceramic plates. Notice these new flat irons are not promoting any "ionic" nor "far infrared heating." I am so excited about the new technology push and its price points. At $20 US Dollars, there is no excuse! All you flat iron addicts, can now try a healthier flat iron with adjustable temperature that is not designed to "cook" your hair from the inside out! These New flat irons pictured were found in a local Target store in December 2011.

Concept: Unseen heat damage

One of my recent articles stimulated discussion about whether damage can be happening without it being seen immediately. In my response, I described overheating bread in the microwave. So I decided to literally put my theory to the test.

I purchased two Kaiser rolls. Both rolls started out soft. I wrapped one in a dry paper towel and put it in the microwave. I set the microwave to about a minute and a half. I pressed the "on" button, and the roll was off to heating. At the forty-five second point, I started seeing steam. At the minute point, the microwave glass looked foggy and I smelled the bread "cooking." Finally, a very long minute and a half ended. I left the microwave untouched for about 3 minutes to write down my notes. Then I open the microwave to discover that 50% of the bread was "hard as a rock." The dry paper towel that the roll was wrapped in was then very damp. The roll got harder as it continued cooling down.

You can see the before and after pictures of the two rolls. The picture with the damp paper towel is the after picture. There is some visible change in the surface of the kaiser roll that was overcooked, but it is far from burnt. If you did not touch the roll, then no one could see a difference between the microwaved roll and the fresh roll.

I had to use a knife to cut the microwaved roll. It was dry and crumbling. The fresh roll was easy to pull apart and to eat. I did not attempt to eat the overheated roll.

I researched microwaves, and they concentrate on water molecules. "Microwaves" are "electromagnetic waves." They work based on negative and positive charges similar to flat irons. The technology in the flat irons is a little different. Please research the technology differences at your convenience.

My main point was to show that damage can happen without necessarily seeing it on the surface. I am still caution about potential unseen ionic flat iron damage.

Another "food for thought" article. Ha Ha Ha. No pun intended, but the fresh Kaiser roll was delicious!

Flat Iron recommendations from year 2010

I stumbled across this article in a Woman's Day magazine dated November 17, 2010, page 50. Can you believe that it says "Whatever you do, never set the (flat) iron over 400 degrees - it can cause hair to dry out and break."? The kinkier the hair; typically, the higher the heat that is used; but this article says high heat like "450 degrees" is damaging to all hair.

I remember some of the adjustable Chi (Farouk) Turbo flat irons did not get hotter than 356 degrees. This temperature was not hot enough to straighten kinkier hair, but it makes sense now that the flat iron was not designed to damage hair. The hair industry kept asking for higher heat temperatures for styling purposes; however, maintaining the health of the hair took a seat on the "backburner." Not good.

If you are still using a flat iron, then hopefully, you are using it for minor touch-up on the ends and on low heat!

Flat iron damage: Plate Burn Pattern

Occasionally, people are selling used flat irons on line such as this one pictured. Do you see a solid black area running down the center of the flat iron plate? Well, this is a sign that you are frying your hair by not using enough heat protection serums/sprays prior to using this flat iron. Although, this is not the worst picture I have seen, but this was the only picture I found during the time of me composing this article.

I may add a few more pictures as I run into them on the Internet to give you a better idea of "frying hair." I recently sold four professional flat irons online. All were used and not one had a "burn pattern." They all looked brand new. I had to remove heat protector "clingy" residue from the side ridges of my flat irons, but the plates stayed a uniform, consistent color unlike the picture I obtained from the Internet in this article. The fact that my "used" flat irons had no burn patterns were a sigh of relief. It let me know that while I still feel that ionic flat irons "microwave" hair, I was using adequate heat protection serums to prolong as much short-term damage as possible.

Remember once the hair is extremely damaged; it will eventually break off. Please see my article on the flat iron free pledge and consider going back to the curling irons.

Hair Growth Review: Five Months Timeframe

It's September 2011. Eight months without using a ionic flat iron. (See article on flat iron free pledge) Five sodium hydroxide relaxer attempts where four attempts only texturized my type 4c curl pattern. My final styling was completed with stove and marcel irons and the True Indulgence relaxer system. (Please see separate article.) I still have a little wave in my hair. On a separate note, I think that I have 3 different hair textures in my head. Below the occipital bone is probably a type 4a. Above the occipital bone into the crown is probably a type 4c. Let me clarify that my occipital bone sits low. Therefore I have a lot of type 4c hair. My front hair is probably a type 4b. I have had about five trims trying to keep some shape. I mainly layered in the back so I have been cutting away length there.
This picture is from April 2011. Big difference right? I had started to eliminate all the ends that had been flat iron damaged. Apparently, the curlier your hair; the more flat iron passes you take trying to get the hair straight. I figured out that I was losing the battle; so no more flat irons for me. So I started the "protective styling." (i.e. wigs and half wigs)
Then in June 2011, I realized the wigs were too heavy. The wigs were cute but they started traumatizing my scalp. Please my article on wig weight. The synthetic wigs are heavier than the human hair wigs, but they all were too heavy for my head shape. I still was growing lengthwise, but who needs thin hair? I intentionally left my hairline out to avoid damage from the traction of the wig. Can you imagine me thinning my hairline out?
So by July 2011, I was recovering from the wigs and protective styling. My front had thickened back up. I had started wearing my natural styling. The natural styling was a "bear" to deal with. I did not have a choice. The wigs were too heavy. I was trying to avoid the heat from any type of irons. I could not find a sodium hydroxide relaxer that straightened without burning me within 20 minutes or less.
August 2011, my new growth comes in strong again! It controls my whole look. I also started wondering if the texturized hair is reverting some. It was time to attempt the next relaxer. That was a battle. (See the separate article on my August hair battle) I was not pleased with the relaxer that I tried. It was extremely drying. I was going to have to discover a completely different combination of natural products just to adapt to this new partially relaxed hair. I did not have any more patience for this natural hair care. So I went into the gluefree quick weave styling to just let it rest because some areas were too straight to try to wear it natural, and some areas were too natural to hold straight in the crazy weather that we were having. Talk about caught between a "rock and a hard place."
September 2011, my growth was doing well. The Viviscal pills seem to work well. I decided to discontinue them during relaxer time. I am proud of my five months of hair growth. It was good for me to actually see my progress. I have been wearing my hair natural part of the time. I have also used the partial gluefree quickweave styling a few times. This styling is less stressful on the hair than the synthetic wigs, but it allows me a longer, straighter look for a styling change. Well, this was my hair texture before this September 2011 relaxer. I did not take a picture of the texture of my hair wet after the relaxer. Sorry. I still had texture in it but more wave than curl. I did not want it bone straight. However, I did need it straight enough not to revert back in high humidity. It took four sodium hydroxide relaxer attempts, and I still had not achieved enough straightness to prevent frizzing in high humidity. I am actually beginning to wonder if going from ultra kinky, sensitive scalp to straight enough to avoid reversion is realistic in one sodium hydroxide relaxer setting? I was not able to successfully do this in one setting. Of course, sensitive scalp formula relaxers can probably achieve this, but they are not healthy for the hair nor scalp. Once or twice a year in a bind, yes - you should recover; but I avoid sensitive scalp relaxers now at all cost!

This documentation is important to me because some stylists and people in general feel that "nappy hair" can only grow to a certain length and break. This is not true. "Nappy hair" is fragile in its natural state and if it is chemically overprocessed or heat damaged. If you keep "nappy hair" texturized enough to soften and not revert without over straightening it - length and strength can be maintained. So far I have learned that the frequency of relaxing is not a problem. It is the type of relaxer used. It is also how much straighening that you are trying to achieve in one setting. Stay positive, stay focussed, stay tuned!

Brainwashed on Bone Straight Hair?

I captured these images from my "Best of Soul Train" dvds. The commercial is for Ultra Sheen Permanent Creme Relaxer. The date is around 1975, and the lady's hair is not "bone straight." Also, anyone familiar with hair texture, can also see that this woman's natural curl pattern is not kinky. She is probably naturally a Type 3 curl pattern.

It's year 2011, and Black women have gotten more accustomed to "bone straight" hair even if it means sacrificing the health of the hair for the style. For the "healthy hair" hairstylists, the "bone straight" mentality has become a challenge because people are so used to the straightness achieved from the ionic flat irons. So Black women are either going completely curly or they want completely bone straight hair. What happened to the midway point? Healthy hairstylists are finding that clients do not want this midway point. Some hair stylists have decided to either make sure the hair gets relaxed really straight or possibly use the flat iron for final finishing.

The finished look from the round brush blow dry service used to be enough decades ago, but now, even the dominican hairstylists are finding people want straighter hair in these modern times.

Literally, I have seen Black women with "heat damaged hair" still go pay for a round brush and flat iron service just because they like the finished look. I cringe when I see this happening, but I have to respect others' businesses. Sometimes this damage is happening on a platform at a hair show. In my mind, I am watching heat damage compound, and I can not say a word. Eventually, after the hair becomes completely fried from the "inside out," it will break uncontrollably. Flat irons heat hair from the inside out versus curling irons heat outside in. Indirect heat versus direct heat. No matter which heat that you choose, you can NOT use heat everyday. Direct heat is safer, but too much heat from any type of iron too often will weaken the hair.

Let's talk about image for a second. The "Sleek" look does carry a certain amount of prestige. People are driven by social acceptance and fame. The more texture that is seen in your hair usually means that you are viewed as "unpolished" in some social circles.

The best advice that I can give is to stay focus on maintaining a healthy body image and completing your educational goals. Most people can control their body image/weight. A fit body image and accessories can play off most any hairdo. Have you seen the editorial covers of some of these major magazines? "Crazy, avant-garde" hair mixed with designer clothes and designer shoes seems to be acceptable!

Do you need direction on weight loss? Jennifer Hudson is on the cover of Self magazine. I believe it is the August edition. She looks great, and her food menu and exercises are very reasonable. You do not have to feel like you need a personal chef and a personal trainer. Everything that she is doing is practical and can be done on your own. I really loved this article.

Do's and Don'ts: The Flat Iron Free Pledge

Do NOT use the flat iron to curl your hair with. Why? The hair stays in contact with the flat iron for too long of a period of time. Also, according to my findings, after the third time using the flat iron to curl with- your hair stops holding curls. Consider using a curling iron with adjustable temperature settings to curl your hair. It will give you more body the next day.

Do NOT use the flat iron if you any type of allergic reaction to the scalp from surgery, medicine, etc. Why? According to my findings, the flat iron seems to reactivate the allergy symptoms and may cause hair to shed. The main concern is the scalp. If you have long hair and your roots are straight, and you just want to pass the flat iron through a few ends of long hair for a quick styling touchup, then you should be safe. If you have short hair or curly hair - I would completely avoid the flat iron until there is no chance of activating an allergy.

Do NOT use the flat iron on the same day as a relaxer service. Why? According to my findings, relaxers and flat irons are a bad mix. Many blame the relaxer for their hair problems. The relaxers can be a potential issue, but more than likely the flat iron is causing the thinning of the ends and possible breakage. Without a relaxer, regardless of your race, flat irons can cause hair to thin, get stringy and break.

Do NOT use the flat iron to straighten really curly hair. Why? Most people have to pass the flat iron through sections of curly hair over and over again to try to straighten out the waves. I have found that these multiple passings are doing more long-term internal damage to the hair shaft and overexposing the scalp to any "radiation-type" side effects since the roots usually present the most resistance in straightening. This scalp "overexposure" can result in shedding. The hair should be blowdried as straight as possible before using the flat iron. Ideally, the hair should require one pass through of the flat iron to get you your desired straightness.

Do use heat protection serums and sprays when using the flat irons. Why? They will help prolong the potential damage to the hair.

Do try lower temperatures first before using a high temperature on your flat iron. Why? Fine hair and chemically treated hair are advised not to use the flat irons on high at all. Also, when using a curling iron, I used to never turn the curling iron to maximum so why should a flat iron be used at top temperatures? If your curling iron dial goes from 1 to 25. Try 13 to 17 range. Most of the time, that is all the heat that anyone will need.

Please consider going flat iron free for two months. No cheating at all. Promise? If you do not see a difference in the one inch of new growth compared to the previously flat ironed hair - then go back to your flat iron. If you do see a difference, then remain flat iron free and grow the flat iron damaged hair out.

Review: Nioxin hair products for thinning hair

The Nioxin line has been around for several years. It has been reformulated in recent years. According to the class that I took about four years ago, this product line is focussed on a healthy scalp. A healthy scalp assists in optimum hair growth.

Over the years, I have received repeated feedback that if you discontinue using this product line, the hair condition will return to its original thinness or worst.

Many hairstylists have become wary of this line as well as other "thinning hair" brands; however, I believe that many dermatologists are still recommending it.

I believe there are a few products such as a "follicle booster" in the Nioxin line that will enhance your hair growth without becoming a slave to the whole line.


Their shampoo is called a "cleanser." Their conditioner is called "scalp therapy."

If you are experiencing shedding or thinning, please consider the ceramic/ionic flat irons as a source of your dilemna. I have written separate articles on the dangers of flat irons.

If you are not flat ironing, then please consider sensitive scalp/no lye relaxers as a possible source. Those relaxers typically are calcium hydroxide based and can become unstable shortly after being mixed. Over the years of continued use, sensitive scalp relaxers can begin to thin the hair.

Also, if your hair is breaking at the ends verus thinning, then I re-emphasize that the Nioxin line is more like a medication for the scalp versus healing existing hair strands.

There are a lot of product lines out there. Please make an informed decision when buying a "medicated" product line or hair product.

Ceramic Tools Review: 2.25" Flat Iron

To achieve this style, I blow dried with a round brush and flat ironed with the Ceramic Tools 2.25" flat iron pictured below. I still used some hair polish and hair spray as well.
The model number of this flat iron is CTFI293. According to the customer service representative(April 2011), the ceramic plates on this tool are designed to reflect ions. So there is some ionic emissions surrounding this iron, but there is NOT a separate ionic technology present that the newer flat irons have. This Ceramic Tools iron has adjustable temperatures from 1 to 25. I had to turn this iron to about the 18 to 20 range to get the mannequin hair this sleek. Again, I used finishing products to seal the deal. The Customer Service representative said they no longer make this iron. She had to dig through hard manuals for the information because her computer database only had a brief description.

I am highlighting this iron because I feel that this ceramic iron is less damaging than the newer flat irons. Please see my other articles on flat irons.

Comparing FHI Heat Iron Literature: Old and New!

As discussed in a separate article in this blog, notice the temperature warnings for fine and chemically-treated hair? In this newer literature, the warning is at the beginning of the paragraph, right? Reminder: Chemically-treated means color treated or relaxed, etc.
This is a picture of older FHI Heat Literature. Look at the "Temperature Settings" paragraph. Notice the same warning? Notice that in this older literature, the fine and chemically-treated hair warning was in the middle of the paragraph? So the newer literature pictured above emphasizes their warning about the dangers to fine and chemically-treated hair by moving the statement to the first sentence. Were they becoming aware of the damage that was happening?
Look at item number 6. Notice that instructions say hair should glide through iron without pulling nor gripping? If you have curly hair, you are more than likely shutting the iron tight trying to get the curl out? If you are already straight and just want to control some frizz, then a lower temperature, some flat iron serum and a simple pass should do the trick. But for curly hair and fine hair, why spend over $100 for a hot tool that is not designed with the health of your hair in mind?

Michelle Obama: The Healthy, Sleek hair Look!

First Lady Michelle Obama is looking great from head to toe! This sleek style can be achieved from having your stylist use the stove and marcel flat iron. It can be acheived with the hair being roller set in large rollers first then use the marcel flat iron to relax the roller set parts. If using magnetic rollers, try the purple or gray sizes. Use of a light foam as a setting agent will eliminate any challenges with weight and/or movement.

The blow dry service is still an option as well. However, sitting clients with fine and/or relaxed hair under a pre-heated dryer on medium setting for about 5 to 10 minutes with their ends clipped up will assist in pre-drying some of the ends. The ends are usually the weakest part of the hair strand. With African American hair, I still believe that women with extremely curly hair need the roots blown dry with some wetness in it. If they have a fresh relaxer, then the roots should be straight. Choosing the marcel flat iron over the electric ionic/ceramic flat iron is safer for those desiring to keep their length.

I have grown my clients' hair out to mid-back lengths within two year time period using these expensive ionic flat irons, but I have found that continued use of the ionic/infrared heated flat irons seem to cause permanent damage in the internal structure of the hair. This internal damage to the hair shaft eventually shows up "one day" out of the unexpected. Race of the client does not matter. Natural hair versus relaxed hair does not matter. Curl pattern does not matter. The results of continued use of ceramic/ionic flat irons will show up one day. It may take a year, a year and a half, or even three years. Depending on the heat protection products that being used, how often the hair is being flat iron per week, and the fineness of the hair will determine how soon the damage will show up. The hair will typically start showing signs of minor breakage before the excessive breaking begins. Again, your race does not matter.

I have had new Caucausian/White clients come in requesting hair extension service because of excessive breakage from ionic flat iron use at home. Returning back to the original electric curling irons and bulky electric flat irons for home use will be best for the hair when heat styling is needed. Please see separate articles on flat irons for "old school tools." Also, read your tool instruction manuals under "temperature settings." Some warnings are printed there.

I have been asked a lot lately about whether or not the heat damaged hair will curl back up for those who were naturally curly prior to their hair starting to go straight from the heat. My answer is maybe, but do not count on it. For coarser hair, the hair strand has more medulla, and the curl may return after a few months. However, if the hair stays straight after it is thoroughly saturated in water (i.e. shampooed), then it is less likely to return to its original curl pattern. That straight hair may either break off eventually or it may need to be trimmed away over the year. Either way, your new growth is your new focus. No more ceramic/ionic/infrared flat irons at home nor in the salon. Promise.?