Hair Cuticle Erosion and Scalp Abrasion

Have you noticed that your hairstylist wears vinyl gloves when applying chemicals such as relaxers, perms, haircolor, smoothing treatments, etc?

When you are doing serious household cleaning, do you put on gloves?

The answers to both of these questions is probably - YES!

So what protects your scalp which is a living organ?  The "Vaseline" based protectant?

Hmm, got you thinking?

FACT:  If your scalp is exposed to chemicals on a regular basis, then it will eventually increase sensitivity to the chemical causing temporary abrasions and possibly even permanent scalp scarring.

So if you start relaxing a child's hair at age five, then if she gets scarring in her scalp in the form of bald spots by age 16 - then who is to blame?

FACT:  Some people's hair buckles up at the root, and others' hair grows away from the root.  Hair that buckles at the root typically forces the relaxer chemical to come in direct contact with the scalp.  Whereas people with less resistant hair typically get minimal exposure of the relaxer coming in extended contact with the scalp.

So if your aunts and female ancestors have a lot of  "resistant kinky" hair, then you may see some hair thinning or hair loss in your blood line.  It is NOT because of "bad blood!"  It is solely because the buckling of kinky, resistant hair requires relaxer touch-ups more often for control, but this increased frequency also increases the scalp's exposure to the chemicals.  Over time this vicious cycle would cause hair loss in anyone regardless of race.

Now, lets tackle "Hair Cuticle Erosion."  What is hair cuticle erosion?  Well, similar to land erosion, the hair shaft is being "chipped" away or damaged.  Eventually, damaged hair needs to be cut off if it does not break off first.

So what causes the erosion of the hair cuticle?

1. Hot irons at too hot of a temperature for fine or medium hair.
2. Lightener/Hair Bleach and Color Remover to correct color.
3. Overlapping Permanent Haircolor too many times.
4. Using the wrong hairbrush to blow-dry hair.
5. Using a pure protein treatment on the same day as a relaxer. (Remember damaged hair can be soft hair.)
6. Byproducts left in the hair from "No lye" relaxers.
7. Double processing hair.  (relaxer plus permanent haircolor or perm plus permanent haircolor)

As far as smoothing treatments go, the flat ironing of the hair can cause more cuticle erosion than the actual "smoothing solution" being applied.

Hair cuticle erosion is not the "end of the world."  All hair is DEAD that is why you do not feel it when the scissors cut it, but cut into your scalp - it's living - you will feel that.

FACT: Hair will grow back as long as the scalp is healthy.  So damage your scalp, and you are DOOMED!

Damage your hair - just trim away and discontinue anything that caused the previous damage.

Well, it's just as simple as that!

Relaxers: Neutralizing Steps Explained

Folks, please use your head when it comes to neutralizing a relaxer.  Answer these questions.

1. When you base the scalp before applying the relaxer, what is that product made of?
2. What ingredients are in the relaxers that make them slick the hair down?

And the answers are: OIL.

Now, does oil and water mixed?   And the answer is NO.

So what would make you think that you can rinse all traces of the relaxer out of the hair without shampooing?  All of the oils will not rinse out without some heavy duty water pressure. Every salon does NOT have "fire hydrant" steady water pressure. So do not count on all traces of relaxer to rinse away without shampooing.

So with that said, disregard Affirm's recommendation to condition the hair before shampooing the hair.  This pre-conditioning has caused hair thinning in some clients.  Once they come to me, and I start shampooing before conditioning, then their hair begins to fill back in.

Of course, someone is thinking -"but Affirm says to condition while the cuticles are still open."

Listen.  What is the pH of water?  7.0  Right? 

As long as the hair is wet, trust me the conditioner will condition just fine right after shampooing three times.  Truth be told, the relaxers are so high on the pH scale that the cuticles will take about three days to calm down anyway.  The neutralizing process is designed to start to close the cuticle, but if you air dry, you will probably notice that the cuticles look frizzy because they don't actually close without some product help or some heat help - so ease your mind.  Shampoo all the bad stuff out before you condition.  Please.

And by all means, use the designated conditioner that goes with the relaxer system.  Too many people are adding too much extra protein during the relaxer process.  If your cuticles are open, then the hair shaft is going to absorb too much protein and prevent your cuticle from sealing back down.  This creates more frizz and more damage.

I have seen a lot of incorrect relaxing tips floating on forums and message boards. These tips were scary because the people giving them sounded like experts.  Be careful what you read when it comes to chemicals.

If my tips listed in this article does not make sense to you, then do not follow my tips, but do inform me if you have questions.