Coconut Oil: Causing Hair to Tangle?

Yes! . . . there have been reports that "EVCO" (Extra Virgin Coconut Oil) has caused some relaxed hair to tangle.   One of my clients can attest to this fact as well.  Also, as I look back, when I have used the EVCO as a pre-shampoo treatment, I sometimes found that my clients' hair would become less manageable when it was time to roller set it.  Of course, I contributed the hair's misbehavior to "relaxer touch-up" coming due.  Now,  reflecting back, the coconut oil that I thought was supposed to be a benefit was actually a culprit for tangles.

I found an online list of 122 uses for EVCO from everything from "cleaning agents" to lubricating musical instruments.  Apparently, the fatty acids from the Extra Virgin Coconut Oil can coat almost anything.  Notice that the Coconut Oil is solid most of the time?  Many people prefer to use it on their hair during the summer months when it is less likely to solidify in their hair.

But back to my personal experience with "heavy oil treatments," I have had clients come in with Coconut oil, Ojon oil, etc to pre-treat their hair before their hair appointment.  If your hair is natural (no relaxer), then more than likely, you will have "No Problem."  However, if you have a relaxed., type 4 hair,  the coconut oil may act like a protein causing overproteinizing (overfilling) of the hair strands making it more prone to tangle.

Some natural hair cleansing creams and natural hair conditioners can also become protein overkill for Type 4, relaxed hair.

If your hair begins to have a mind of its own and becomes unmanageable then you will have to clarify it to try to strip the extra protein out, neutralize it with a low pH conditioner, recondition with a liquid moisturizing conditioner (versus a cream based conditioner), and then seal with a smoothing conditioner.

Need some product suggestions?  Please see my article on the  "Reset Regimen for overproteinized hair."

Reset Regimen for Overproteinized Relaxed Hair

So your hair feels soft, but has become unmanageable when it is wet?  Okay, do you have relaxed hair? If so, then it is very possible that you have too much protein in it, and it has filled the hair shaft to its capacity.

Extra Virgin Coconut Oil and some natural hair care lines can overproteinized relaxed hair depending upon the texture of the hair and the porosity of the hair.  So before you rip your hair out with a wide tooth comb, I have found another regimen to try:

1) Clarify the hair with a shampoo like "Malibu un-do-goo."
2) Use a low pH conditioner to detangle the hair.  Example:  Joico K-Pak Cuticle Sealer (pH of 2.5 to 3.5)
3) Recondition with a liquid based moisture conditioner to avoid adding more protein.  Example:  Mizani Butter Blend MicroFusion penetrating conditioning Spray.
4) Seal the hair with a Smoothing conditioner such as Rusk Sensories Pure Color Conditioner.

Make sure that you rinse the hair thoroughly after each step.  Upon completion of these four steps, the hair should be very manageable without any leave-in conditioners and ready for roller set or other wet styling.

If the hair is hard and brittle from calcium deposits,  please see my article on the "detox regimen."

Protein shampoos: Reconstructive Overkill?

Believe it or not, some shampoos can serve as protein reconstructors in place of conditioning treatments.  This AG shampoo has a pH  of 4.5 to 5.5 which is a normal pH for hair and skin.  The hair seems to be able to absorb protein no matter if it is supplied through the shampoo or the conditioner.  It seems odd but even after rinsing shampoo or conditioner out of the hair; the hair absorbs what it is craving.

Careful, if your hair is compromised due to heat damage or mechanical damage it may absorb too much protein too quickly and you may need to soften it with a conditioner that has no protein.  Some moisturizing conditioners still have low levels of protein.  Bee Mine Products has a conditioner specifically designed without protein.

As far as other protein enriched shampoos, be careful of  "Cleansing Creams" for curly, natural hair.  KeraCare Cleansing Cream can be protein overkill for relaxed hair.  Although, it is a sulfate-free product, it still is better for chemical free hair.  Even KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo - Classic has some protein in it but less than the Cleansing Cream.  Relaxed hair seems to remain strong and detangled with the use of the KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo.  Typically, clients who keep their hair 70% to 85% relaxed will find that the KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo is sufficient for their overall hair needs.

So if you are short on time but need a reconstructor, consider adding a protein enriched shampoo to your shampooing step followed by a pure moisture conditioner.  Please see the article on the Ultra Sheen Protein shampoo that was advertised in the 1970's on this blog as well.