Shrinkage: 24 inch Kinky equals 11 inches

More and More people are buying kinky textured human hair at $200 a bundle, but disappointed in the length of it when it arrives.  Pictured above is 24" Kinky Bulk Freetress Equal synthetic hair. (24 inches)

When I measure the 24 inch hair bundle, it measures about 12 inches.  So for everyone ordering Peruvian Kinky or any other type of kinky hair, if you want 16 inches length then you need to order 32 inch length.

If you order 16 inch length, then expect 8" to 10" lengths to arrive.  Shrinkage accounts for the other half of the length.

We have come a long way from Chris Rock's movie "Good Hair" in 2009.  They could not give away kinky weave five or six years ago.  Now, people are buying it for $200.00 a bundle.  Amazing.

Focus on Loc Shrinkage

Is it just me or has anyone else inhaled a Sisterlock up their nostril by accident? Anyway, I have been sniffling some due to the fall weather hitting so quickly, and on more than one occasion, I have sucked up a loc.  I am sorry if that is too much information, but I supposed that people with long hair must have sucked up their own hair before too.  I never remember sucking up my own hair before so with me gaining more length, I am sure that I will be making further longer length discoveries.

There was only a two day difference between the two pictures included in this article.  My natural, loose hair usually shrinks about 75% into a tight afro.  My locs still have about 25% shrinkage so I do not worry about showcasing length for myself, but I know that for others inspired by my journey, shrinkage is real based on your curl behavior.

I also braided my hair up one night to get the wavy look.  I initially felt the tension on my roots from the braids so I literally had to purposely re-braid my locs slowly and loosely.  Any type of tight ponytails or braided loc styling that is pulled even moderately tight can put stress on the locs.  I may need to even re-think wet sets.

My focus has been no stress on my tresses. I have not have any problems yet, but I have not had enough length to stretch my imagination with styling my locs.  So let me continue to stay conservative with styling for at least another six months, then I can try more fancy options with no tension.

Natural Hair Shrinkage Delivers Thicker Looking Locs

 

There are many loc wearers that re-twist their locs every two weeks, but if you do not have extra thick hair, then you may be missing out on the benefits of leaving the new growth loose.  In the pictures above, you see my hairline with my new growth shrunken on the left.  The picture on the right or the second picture is where I dry twisted one loc at the hairline.  Which one do you like better? (sorry about the picture clarity)

I personally like the fullness of NOT keeping my roots tightened as seen in the first picture.  I get the most compliments when I embrace my natural  hair as well as my locs.

Now, I will confress that locs need to gain some length to play off your new growth shrinkage.  Your new growth can not be 2 inches and your locked portion only hanging 2 inches.  This would not work. Your mature lock needs to be long enough to control the new growth and hang.

So this thickness tip may not work for newbie loc starters, but keep this loc tip in your memory banks for when you can use it.

Officially, I would consider my hair as medium but coarse in texture. Its behavior is resistant which is why the shrinkage factor works.  So focus LESS on the roots and focus MORE on styling the locked portion of your locs as they gain length! One year eight months for me! No more baby locs!

Game Changer: Resistant or Non-pliable Hair

So I decided to use an "edge gel" on my hairline to give my lock styling a more polished appearance.

Within two hours, my hairline was no longer "laid."  Wow!  So the "edge gel" is NO match for my resistant curl pattern.  So with that said, I formally introduce another category of hair to the "natural community" - resistant or non-resistant hair.  In Sisterlocks terminology, the category would be non-pliable or pliable hair respectively.

So you can be a Type 3 or even a Type 4c as far as curl pattern or texture is concerned, but whether or not your hair is resistant is going to be another factor in your hair regimen.

Resistance equals shrinkage.  Some people relate to the term "shrinkage" better than "resistance."

If your curl pattern's behavior is resistant to elongation (i.e. extremely quick shrinkage speeds), then the relaxers must work longer and harder to soften the hair strand to allow for permanent straightening. Upon successful relaxation of the resistant hair strands, the hair strands will undoubtedly be weaker than someone who gets their less resistant hair relaxed.

The curl pattern actually is less relevant because the resistance level becomes the factor in determining whether the "relaxer" takes as well.

So where am I going with this train of thought?  I strongly feel that those with extremely "resistant" hair should consider controlling their curl pattern by locking it versus using chemicals to control it.

Am I trying to get everyone to lock their hair?  NO.  Definitely not.  I have some clients with gorgeous, moderate to low resistant hair that are doing superb with relaxers.  They are growing long into mid-back lengths.  I would not dare encourage these clients to go natural because the relaxer systems WORK for them.

However, I have encountered and seen many Black women in public that should give up the relaxers.  It's not that they have "bad hair."  It's not that they don't "take care" of their hair.  It's not the relaxer system that they are using is inferior.  What it is . . . their hair needs a regimen that works with their curl pattern versus against it.  That regimen will more than likely be traditional locking of the hair by coiling or twisting.

I do NOT suggest interlocking or Sisterlock'ing resistant hair that falls into a Type 4 curl pattern.  I actually ran into yet another lady with long micro-locks.  She actually started twisting her hair in lieu of interlocking because (like me) the interlocking method with the tool was damaging her hair in her opinion.

On the flip side, I definitely have run into women who have spent a lot of money and time trying to coil and twist their hair, only to discover that their hair will NOT stay coiled.  These women would benefit from the interlocking method (such as Sisterlocks) for maintaining locks.

I hope that my message in this article is not sounding redundant, so let me suggest to those ready for a change:

1) Learn your curl pattern type, texture, resistance/pliability level.

2) Choose the path that works for your own unique hair type.

You may be asking - how do I learn my hair type, etc.?  My answer is simply this:

1) If your current hair care regimen IS working for you, then do NOT change a thing.  You do not need to discover your natural curl pattern unless you want to join the "curly" movement.

2) However, if your hair is constantly consuming your life and quality of life about every month trying to control the new growth, then discontinue what has NOT been working and consider protective styling for about two or three months.  This will allow your virgin hair to grow in at your root area.

3) When you achieve your two or three months of hot iron-free and chemical-free hair, start studying your new inch or inch and a half of new growth.  Study the elongation and shrinkage speeds. Study how it coils.

4) Decide on your new path for your hair before performing a "big chop."

Need help with this evaluation?  And you are in the Charlotte, NC area?  Contact me at Applebaum Salon.  (www.thefashionfloor.com)  We anticipate expansion within the coming year.

A Lesson about Hair Length

There are four chenille stems pictured. They represent hair strands in different curl patterns.  Which chenille stem is the longest?  The third one from the left?  The fourth one?  Which one looks the shortest?  The second one from the left?

Okay, some of you probably guessed the answer . . . .  all four chenille stems are the exact same length.  Can you believe it?  The shortest chenille stem measures under 2 inches, but the straight chenille stem measures 12 inches.  That is 10 inches difference which mean hair shrinkage is almost at 85%.  50% shrinkage of anything is a lot.  Can you imagine 85% shrinkage?

So when people comment on how short someone's hair is . . . do they really know the true length? Probably not unless you straighten it.  Then you can compare "apples to apples."


My Sisterlocks at 8 months curled with perm rods.



A detailed look of one of my Sisterlocks at 8 months with relaxed ends still intact.  As far as curly length goes, I am only visually seeing about an inch and a half of growth in the last 7 months, but I know that if my curly hair was straightened then it should measure about 3.5 inches longer.  This long locks journey is going to take me about four years versus two years based on what I am seeing.  I am definitely mentally preparing for the long haul.

Resistant hair: No Match for Relaxers plus Length

 So everyone is familiar with the different hair types being Type 1 through Type 4 with subcategories of a, b, and c.  Now, let's take the discussion one step farther . . .  Resistant versus Non-resistant.  Someone with a Type 4c curl pattern may have a finer and less resistant behavior than another individual with a Type 4c curl pattern who has a coarser, more resistant behavior.  So both people can have similar curl patterns, but the texture of the strands may dictate its resistance behavior and shrinkage behavior.

 This miniature "slinky" represents a "resistant" hair type.  When elongated, it naturally wants to spring back into its original condensed form.  This "resistant" hair behavior is excellent for locking because it likes to coil around everything in its path.  Extensions, braids, etc.   However, to straighten or relax this type of resistant hair, the relaxer has to work very hard to soften the bonds to rearrange them not to behave in its natural behavior.  Sometimes a mild strength relaxer is not strong enough to straighten a resistant hair type, but the toxic dangers to the scalp remain the same.  Alopecia and thickening of the scalp can results from prolonged relaxer exposure in an attempt to straighten resistant hair.

To test your resistance of your natural hair, just pull a strand of elongated hair from your head or comb and  drop it in a clear cup of water.  If there is no product or oils on it, then you should be able to see the hair strand do one of two things.   1) Either it will very slowly start to coil and shrink within a few minutes or 2) it will quickly coil and shrink at the "speed of light" like in two seconds.

If it is "speedy" then the hair is resistant.  If it is "slow" to coil, then it is non-resistant.  Non-resistant hair can grow long with the use of mild relaxers, but it may be harder to lock because of potential unravelling.

Now, resistant, coarse hair, is very difficult to grow long using relaxers.  Locks will grow it long, but relaxer and other straightening services will become a battle between style and health.  If a person with resistant hair can manage to style their hair for 8 to 10 weeks at a time in between relaxer touch-ups, then long length is possible.  However, most women with resistant, coarse hair can not get past their hairline becoming kinky within the five weeks period.

Decisions, Decisions.  Food for thought for those sitting on the fence about what to do next with your hair.

My SisterLocks: Wet versus Set

 My SisterLocks feel like loose hair when they are wet.  When I get full shoulder length, I may just wash and go, who knows?

For now, I perm rod them and wear it curly.  I had to grab the Miss Jessie's Curly Pudding as my moisturizer.  My locks soaked it right up!

This article is important because I had one "former hairstylist" to ask me if I cut my hair when she saw me in my curly look.  I told her "no."  This particular hairstylist has "Halle Berry" type of hair and her hair never shrinks.  I did not feel like schooling her on my type of hair and how it shrinks.

Anyway, my length is looking good at 3.5 months!

Curl Pattern Theory by Benita Blocker

After working with so many different hair textures and curl patterns and scalps, I have been trying to figure out how to simplify how to deal with hair. Yeah, I am going deep with this article. It is all just my theory from my brain. I did not read what I am about to say anywhere. It is just my conclusions based on my observations from my practice, but here it is . . .
Pictured is curling ribbon. I purposely cut each piece to be equal in length.

Next picture: I ran a pair of scissors down one of the pieces of ribbon repeatedly. Probably about four or five times. Each time I ran that scissor edge down that ribbon, the ribbon got curlier and curlier. As you can see the same length ribbon shrink about 75% in length? Hard to believe that both pieces of ribbon are the same length. Right? Doesn't look like the same length when one ribbon is curled all up. Right?

So you are probably guessing how this ribbon is relative to a hair strand. Well, you are looking at Type 1 straight hair to a Type 4 kinky, extremely curly hair in the form of a ribbon.

My theory is that as the hair grows out of the scalp, some of our hair follicle roots are closer to the surface of the scalp, and as they come out the edge of the follicle is acting like a scissor blade causing it to curl as it grows out.

For those with follicles farther away from the scalp surface, the hair emerges less curly and more straight.

Those whose roots are closer to the scalp (i.e. kinky curly) are probably more sensitive to relaxers. Burning can come very quickly. Scalp damage and thinning from the relaxers can also be more likely because the scalp is being exposed to relaxer touchups more often per year than someone with less kinky curly hair. Plus the root of the follicle is closer to the scalp surface making the root more vulnerable to intense damage from the relaxers.

If the hair strand is coarse and kinky curly then stronger relaxer strengths are being used to soften the strand and smooth it out. The scalp exposure is greater because the roots are curling immediately out of the scalp.

Looser curl patterns grow away from the scalp with a wave or sometimes little kinky curly, but it does not curl back on itself.

Hair that curls back on itself is usually considered a z pattern or a 4c curl pattern.

Over the decades, I really do not think that the relaxer manufacturers have had this curl pattern in mind. With recent trends of women going naturally, kinky curly, they have been forced to recognize the intensity of curl patterns that exist out there. With this said, I wished they would make more relaxer instructional videos showing speed relaxer touch-up service on ultra- kinky hair.

Some stylists prefer using the rattail comb for relaxer touchup application for kinky curly hair. I had not picked up this habit because I thought that it looked a little "ghetto." However, I may have to really re-examine whether the rattail comb can give more control and speed for those with curlier textures.

In the meantime, I still love using the sprushes.

I know that this article is very scary and discouraging, but sometimes the truth is not always pretty. I am saddened by this article because I prefer to give you a solution with any potential problem. Unfortunately, I do not have any easy answers.

Am I saying that sisters with kinky-curly hair need to discontinue relaxers if they want to keep their hair on their head? I do not know. What I do know is that extremely kinky curly hair in its natural state is generally not considered "corporate" or European enough for most professional office jobs.

What I also know is that truly relaxing extremely kinky-curly hair is forcing that hair 180 degrees in the opposite direction where looser curl patterns are not so far away from being straight to begin with.

Is the answer full sew-ins? or protective styling (i.e. wigs) for the kinky curly professional woman? I really do not know. Everyone has to answer that question for themselves.

Hair Curl Shrinkage up to 75 percent

As I have been experimenting with natural textured styling, I keep hearing some of the same comments. Such as 1) "You cut your hair!" and 2) Ummmm, "I have never seen your hair before."

I have type 4c hair; so 75% shrinkage as seen in my pictures is not uncommon. Isn't it amazing how tight hair can shrink to? One picture is with my hair being wet, detangled and combed out. The other picture is dried with a diffuser some. The roots are still a little damp, but you can get see the difference in shrinkage. I also have longer areas of my hair tucked behind my ears so that when I decide to straighten it, then I will keep my length on the sides.

As far as those who were surprised to see my hair, they have seen my hairline before, but they just did not know it was my "own real hair" blended into the hairpieces. I remember one lady asked me if I had a "lace front" on? I replied "no, this hair grows naturally from out of my scalp." Smile.

About four years ago, I actually had relaxed my hair, and I was wearing it in a roller set style without any extensions. It was all my hair that was out, and I had this lady touch my hair and tell me that she wants some extension hair that looks "real" like what I am wearing. I told her "this hair is growing out of my scalp." I had to laugh because people are so addicted to commercial hair (i.e. weave) that they can not tell the difference anymore. Even when I had my invisible braids in, I had a lady lift up my braids to see how they were attached. Ummm - "they are attached to the hair growing out of my scalp."

I just have been so tickled that "hair growing from my scalp" seems to be a new concept. Maybe my "protective styling" really confused people as to what is real and what is commercially integrated. Also, I have coarse hair; so it is resistant and strong. I think that a lot of people that wear protective styling have fine, soft hair. However, that is not me; I have hard to manage hair, and I love it because God gave it to me. I do fight to control it which makes this natural hair styling anything but dull. Eventually, I will fully relax it again. I am waiting on the weather to cool off! No one wants to sweat out their roller set!