Let's Talk Where to Cut the Hair!

Photo credit: Hair Artist Sharlena Bell

Positions 1, 2, and 3 - are clearly haircut status in the picture above

Position 4 is called a dusting off of the ends.

The longer the hair; the less important the question of where to cut becomes.

Position 1 - would give maximum thickness, movement, and restore hair to a healthy reset.

Ultimately, I would cut between Positions 3 and 4 unless the client is certain that she wants a "chunky" liberal cut.

Any thoughts?

Long Relaxed Hair: The Bi-Annual Haircut

Blow Dry and Haircut by Benita Blocker

(Blow-dry was done lightly on unwashed hair to achieve enough straightness for a dry cut.)

It was time for my client's bi-annual haircut.  We cut two or three inches off every six months.

Typically, she wears her relaxed hair in a flat twist out.  The wet set helps maintains the healthiness of the hair.  She gets relaxer touchups every 7 weeks.  She typically gets her protein treatment a week prior to the relaxer touchup.  Without haircuts, her hair continues to grow as seen in the before and after picture above.  We do a chunky haircut every six months to "prune" her long hair back into a blunt look.

Sisterlocks Haircut by Benita Blocker

 Loc Haircut by Benita Blocker, 2014

As promised in a previous "loc clippings" article on this blog, my client and I finally got time to capture her Sisterlocks when they were tightened and curled to show off the haircut that I gave her a couple of months ago.

My client colors her own Sisterlocks and does self-tightening.  She has a lot of hair so she comes to me to tighten the locs that she runs out of time to get done at home.  Also, any locs that get crossed up or may give her some concern, she leaves alone and allow me to work on and undo any accidental two headed dragons before they settle in.

She uses the Dark and Lovely Au Natural Curl Defining Cream to set her curls.  They seem to hold nicely.  I had been a little a afraid of the creams on the locs, but I plan to try one of the curl defining gels that I have in stock in the salon for natural loose hairstyling.  If it holds other natural hair, it should actually hold the locs as well.

I had been using the setting lotion, but I prefer a little more hydration for the winter months.  I will keep you posted when I try another wet set with a defining gel on my own Sisterlocks.

When is it Time to Cut Two Inches Off?

 This roller set client has been with me for almost three years.  We do NOT trim on a regular a basis because we rarely use hot irons.

But at a closer look, she had about two or three inches of hair that was inhibiting maximum styling ease.  A haircut can deliver more fullness and volume and body.

My client gets relaxer touch-ups around every eight weeks.  We use the VitalePro High Comfort Relaxer.  We do NOT trim at every relaxer, and it still grows.  As long as wet sets such as lacer sets, bantu knot sets, and roller sets are used in lieu of thermal/hot irons, haircuts are not needed as often.

If you like fresh, sassy styling then regular trims are necessary. I hope this article helps those worried about the frequency of trims and haircuts.

Haircutting: Real Hair Terms

I completed quite a few haircuts so far this week, and  it was refreshing to know that people do expect their hair to grow.  People do want to keep their hair styled.  All people are not trying to hang on to every eighth of an inch.  Some people want a half inch or more cut off periodically to keep their ends blunt and healthy looking.

Haircut Terminology
I always say if you can see the hair on the floor, then it is a haircut.  

If you can barely see anything on the floor, then I call it a "dusting."

If you want a haircut around the perimeter only or less than half inch all over, then I call it a shaping.

If you want an all over haircut but limit it to an inch or less, then I call it a trim.

I hope this terminology assists you in your communication with your hairstylist for your next haircutting service.

Jennifer Hudson's New Short Haircut 2014

 I love Jennifer Hudson's new short hairstyling.  I am also 99% sure that she is still rockin' a wig with the baby hairs in front.  I only mentioned this because one of my clients loved her new haircut, and when I finally saw it, my first thought was "cute!"  My second thought was that doesn't look like her natural hair texture which alerted me to the wig possibility.

 Jennifer is not new to wearing wigs.  So it is not a surprise to me.  I like the new look!

Photo credits:  bet.com, usmagazine.com, guestofaguest.com

Marriage, Men, Divorce and the Hair Thing

Photos from the movie: Waiting to Exhale

There are some men who absolutely, positively love long hair.  Sometimes long hair seals the marriage deal. Sometimes wives secretly want a short, sassy short to medium style, but in an attempt to keep their husband happy, they continue to comply with maintaining their longer length.

So one day, like the storyline in the movie "Waiting to Exhale" the wife finds herself getting traded out for a "newer model."  Of course, there are plenty of couples celebrating 40 years of marriage.  So for those who commit to the institution of marriage, it is a beautiful thing.

Now, for those who find themselves breaking up from a serious relationship or a marriage seem to always head to the hair salon for that "short to medium" haircut.

As hairstylists, we hope to talk the client through such an emotional time hoping to prolong the drastic haircut until the next hair visit with the hope that the client will forget about the style change.  However, for some emotional clients, it is a "right now" decision.  They want to be rid of this man and what he loved so dearly - the long hair.  They want freedom.  They want to find the essence of themselves again behind all the long tresses.  So 4 or more inches of hair is removed.

A support system is important when going through major life changes such as separation, divorce, and break-up.  You also need a support system if you get any type of big chop  for any reason including health related reasons.  Drastic change causes shock to everyone around.  Adapting to the drastic change takes some folks more time than others.

Some husbands don't care if your hair is long or short.  They do not care if you come home with an extra tattoo.  Those marriages are sometimes built on a deeper level or just a different superficial matter.

Before you take off 4 or 5 inches of hair, discuss it with your spouse first to make sure it is not going to affect your marriage.

Relationships can be so complex; yet, so simple.  It all depends on marrying the right person.

Haircut in Progress: How much correction is needed?

This picture is from behindthechair.com Facebook discussion.  Some artists thought it was a horrible haircut; others thought that the haircut has a lot of potential with some blending.  My thoughts are:

In order to salvage the length, I would razor the tips all over to soften the bluntness, lightly filet the hair in the bottom layers to blend and allow the rest to grow out for about six months and trim the bottom length up gradually as it grows out.

I assume that this lady's hair was cut while wet to end up with that many blunt ends.

Curls with or without extensions should allow for a softer look.

Haircuts: Bold and Beautiful

I pulled this page from one of my Modern Salon hair professional magazines.  It caught my attention because this haircut is both bold and beautiful depending on whose side you are on.  The shaved panel which ends around the ear area on the one side also brings attention to her arm tattoo.

I also think the conservative side looks great without any highlighting or color change.  I love the dress.  This look is not for everyone, but there has been a trend lately for a shaven panel amongst artists.

Beyonce's 2013 Edgy Haircut

So some fans like the new haircut and some people do not like the short look on Beyonce.  In my professional opinion, this new hairstyle is hard to maintain unless you were born with a "Type 3" curl pattern. So I anticipate that Mrs. Carter will keep a "Plan B" i.e. wig/hairpiece on hand for emergencies.

We are used to Beyonce wearing "Plan B" anyway.  So this haircut was a way for Beyonce to connect with us on a "backstage" level.  It's her downtime allowing us to see the real Mrs. Carter . . .  "Sasha Fierce" is still around the corner.  So chill, it's only hair!

The Unisex Pompadour Haircut

 I just finished a Paul Mitchell haircut collection class this week!  I learned a way to perform the Pompadour haircut.  Although Janelle Monae's hairstyle above is not a haircut, her hair shaping sets the pace for the pompadour look.

 The Pompadour haircut on Justin Bieber.

The pompadour haircut on singer Pink.

The most surprising thing about the pompadour haircut that I learned in this Paul Mitchell class was that the center section does not  have to be perfectly symmetric on both sides of the head.  As seen in this picture and as confirmed by the instructor,  one parting is slightly lower on the side than the other.

Also, using a clipper with a #1 guard and buzz off the rest of the hair that is not in your center mohawk sectioning was good to know.  Leave a triangle crown area in the back for solidity and in case there are any cowlicks.

Regardless of the sex of the client, the pompadour haircut is almost identical in technique.

Hair Clients and their Husbands

Many of my clients have grown their own hair to record lengths, and they are now engaged or married.  The husbands/spouses are used to mid-back hair and expects the length to remain or grow it longer.  The couples pay me a reasonable amount of money such that I do not have to double book clients. Also, I do not buy "cheapo" products except for extension hair where brands such as Herbal Essence and Tresemme have been working well.

Although, I have never had any in depth discussion with anyone's husband, there is an understanding that to the best of my ability, I will maintain the health and style of their wife's hair.  Emphasis being on health of the hair . . . most of my clients can handle their own styling.

Well, Valentine's day is around the corner, and I want the husbands to know that any haircut requests from their wives past a 2 inches limit will require a permission slip from their spouse.  Husbands can rest assure that I do not want them mad at me about a rebellious haircut.

I wish everyone a loving, Valentine's Day 2013!

Shaven Legs: Learning about Hair Growth

Have you ever shaved your legs and felt stubble by the next day?  That's proof that your hair does grow.  If you are fighting gray hair, then that would also explain that the new growth of gray hair is a never ending battle to keep covered.

Now, let's take the discussion even farther, if you never shave your legs, would you grow a ponytail full of hair on your legs?  No, for some reason, the length does stop growing on the legs based on individual genetics.

Most stylists will say "cutting your hair" does not make it grow, but I have found that if there is a patch of hair that is not growing; if you cut it back, then it does spawn hair growth.  Hair on your head can reach unlimited length without regard to hair type.  One has to learn to work with their hair versus against it.

Also, for many, the side or patch of hair that you want to grow out is on the side that you do not want to lose any more hair length. So a good cut is usually a great idea if you want to try a shorter look, but it is not an option for someone longing for length.  Adding some hair extensions to support the style may be a good option.  If the hair is growing, but it is breaking at the ends, then one must determine what is causing the breakage in order to gain length.  Cutting breaking hair may help with style, but it will not resolve the breakage problem.

Identify the breakage factor, cut the hair into a healthy style, and either wear new look or add  hair extensions to enhance the old look.

So that's a lot to learn from shaving legs . . .

Achieving a Bedhead Look with a Salon Finish on Fine Hair

Hair by Benita Blocker, hairstylist. Many of my clients do not like too "fixed" in place hair. They want a great haircut and to be able to finger in place and go.

Hair by Benita Blocker, hairstylist. My client here has fine hair with a Type 4c curl pattern. We can not use any heavy sprays that would weight down the strands. Also, because of her overcurly texture, we must relax about every 6 to 7 weeks. The Paul Mitchell Mild relaxer is the strongest relaxer we can use. Because her strands are fine; the mild strength is a preferred choice. We also found that demi-permanent color is too strong for fine, relaxed hair. Fine hair should not be double processed. Relaxer and a "squeeze bottle, no mix" semi-permanent color is all that can be used.

Hair by Benita Blocker, hairstylist. My client loves style so we try to maintain a great shape. We used the traditional blow-dry and marcel irons to complete this style. At night, she can wrap and moisturize lightly with products like Bee Mine Luscious Cream Moisturizer. Unwrap in the morning and pick through.

Hair by Benita Blocker, hairstylist. We also used Paul Mitchell Extra Body Hairspray (light hold) to make sure she maintains volume as the weather is getting hotter.

DVD Review: Sexy Hair Metrik 2010 Spring Collection

This dvd highlights Sexy hair's version of a long haircut and a short haircut. Between the two models pictured here, which one do you think is the long haircut versus the short haircut? You probably guessed it. The model on the right is considered a "Long haircut." However, the long haircut is still in my opinion a short haircut with very little versatility. It seems to be a short bob with a side "rattail."

The Short haircut featured is very versatile and fun! I only liked the short haircut on this dvd, but even it is not on my top 10 haircuts to try.

The biggest lesson from this dvd is to keep your fringe and top hair long and versatile for styling purposes.

Split Ends: Where to trim?

Pictured is a ribbon. When I saw this ribbon, I realized that it reminded me of someone with split ends. In this picture, I show two different ends of the ribbon. One end of the ribbon is still in tact. The other end is unravelling.

So where do you cut? If you do not want to lose length, then I would just cut the string at the bottom but leave the loose ends.

Or should you cut some of the loose ends and be careful not to cause any more damage?

Or you should you just cut above where the damage ends are? You would lose a lot of length, but the ends would be nice and healthy looking again. This was probably your first thought as far as cutting this ribbon is concerned. A "no-brainer" right? Did any of the other options really even come to mind until after you read them?

Another question: Was I talking about hair or the ribbon pictured? The answer: I was talking about both - hair decisions as well as "ribbon decision." It is easier to cut this ribbon where it needs to be cut which is above the split end because it is just a ribbon, but cutting is a more difficult decision when it is relative to the hair on your head especially if you are trying to maintain a style.

Food for thought right? There is no right or wrong answer. Obviously, one would have to cut at least the string away from the ribbon. However, more importantly, one has to determine what caused the unravelling in the first place and make sure that it does not happen again.

Many "scissor happy" stylists as some would label them would without a doubt keep all your ends healthy looking. Some clients are happy with that. Other clients prefer the conservative cutting approach. I am conservative in my cutting. Why? To me, if a client has not eliminated the "cause" of the split ends, then they are going to split them again and again. I do not want to keep cutting off "too much hair" until they have a good daily regimen, and it will not interfere with their ability to style.

Tips for preventing split ends or stringy ends:
1) Stop using ionic flat irons.

2) Use curling irons and ceramic flat irons on the lowest settings as possible to do the job.

3) Wear a style that keeps the ends curled or in a loose updo. Avoid having the hair ends rub against the clothes too much. A loose ponytail or a bun works!

4) Keep the hair moisturized and soft. (Try Bee Mine Luscious Balanced Cream Moisturizer for those with dry hair. www.beemineproducts.com)

5) Get a manageable haircut that falls nicely without having to force a style into it.

6) Pretreat hair with organic, virgin, coconut oil from the health store before you shampoo.

Please see my separate articles on "Luscious", coconut oil, flat iron free pledge, and curling irons for more detailed reviews and discussions.

On a separate note, I wanted to address the saying that "keeping your hair cut; keeps it growing." Hair constantly should be growing unless there is a medical reason, but sometimes people do not see length (which people incorrectly describe as growth) because their hair is also breaking.

Split ends will grab and latch onto surrounding hair to make it difficult to style; therefore adding to breakage. So regular trims do assist in gaining length because you eliminate split ends and snags. Be careful not to interchange the terminology of "hair growing" with "length."

If you see hair getting longer, then maintenance is being done to keep it from breaking. The growth is free. Remember your eyebrows, hair on your legs, and other regular hair removal areas? Hair growth is always happening. Hair is always growing in areas that you do not want it because the ends are not getting split. An aw-haw moment? Right?

Just take care of your hair using some of the tips above to avoid breakage if you desire longer length hair.

Detangled? Keep that hair!

So you just completed a good detangle on your hair . . . why not keep the hair to experiment with haircolor or a new relaxer? Although the hair is no longer attached to your head, why not use it to learn more? It responds the same way whether it is attached or not. Hair is dead. You do not feel when it is cut. There is no nerve endings in the hair. The scalp is what is alive and feels everything touching it.

On a separate note, if you get a haircut of over an inch, then collect the hair to experiment with in lieu of dumping it in the trash. Just store shedded or cut hair in a sandwich bag and label the bag.

A Look at Hair Growth in two months

Hair typically grows around a half inch a month. Pictured here is a few clippings from a haircut. The client has mid-back hair in long layers; so for her- this was a trim. :-)

Notice the clippings are about an inch long? That is about two months of growth. So it is easy to cut two months of hair when you have a lot to work with; but those who are working toward gaining length, an eighth of an inch is more than enough for a routine trim.

It is amazing how quickly two months can go by. Patience is a virtue when it comes to hair growth. Want to learn more about this clients' hair? See our September 2010 article. (Click on the link to find out about these double processed clippings.)

Justin Bieber's New Haircut - The Difference

Justin Bieber is a "heart throb!" I loved his "Never Say Never" movie!!! He is like a "Chris Brown" before the "Rihanna" situation. Justin is sooo talented! Yes! Did I say that I got swept off my feet with the Bieber-mania???? Anyway! Justin has a new haircut!!!! I grew to love the old one. He was a trendsetter and leader. This new haircut is cute too . . . . but I hope that he stays "original." "Original" won our hearts . . . speaking as a fan!!!!
Okay, pictured are two different pairs of thinning shears. Justin's hair has strong directional growth patterns. Thinning shears such as the ones pictured help to thin out the areas of direction allowing for styling products to further assist in control of styling direction. Notice that one pair of shears has more teeth than the other. The more teeth then the more the two cutting edges hit; therefore more hair is cut. So less teeth; less thinning is done. In order to make sure that the hair is not too thin where it can become see-through, the thinning shears with less teeth would be the preferred choice to maintain Justin's new haircut. Also, the general rule when using thinning shears is to cut in the middle of the strand or toward the ends. There will be rare to no case where anyone would need to thin at the root. Using thinning shears at the root of the hair would give you the feel of "breakage" on a real head. If you are thinning "commercial" or "weaving" hair -- thin at your heart's content.

As far as Justin's final finish, I believe his fringes were razored a little to create a soft textured framing along the face.

Mannequin Mania

Hair by Benita Blocker.
Haircut, Round brush styling, and a flat iron finish. Hair by Benita Blocker
Hair cut by Benita Blocker
Hair color by Benita Blocker (done in phases . . .)