Benita's Favorite Hair Products of 2014

First of all, anything on my 2013 List from December of last year that I still love will NOT be repeated on this list.  So let's get started!

Favorite Shampoo made with Quinoa
Abba Moisture Shampoo

Favorite Hairspray for straighening hair
L'Oreal Paris Elnett Satin- Extra Strong Hold

Favorite Firm Hairspray for holding curls without stickiness
Joico JoiMist Firm Finishing Spray (Hold 9)

Favorite Clear Shine Semi-permanent Haircolor
Dudley Blank Clear

Favorite Blue/Black Semi-permanent Haircolor
Nairobi TruColors Indigo (#2)

Favorite Natural Dark Brown Semi-permanent Haircolor
Affirm MoisturColor 2N

Favorite Light Brown Demi-Permanent Haircolor for Same Day of Relaxer
Beth Minardi Liquid Demi-Permanent Haircolor (acidic/liquid only)

Favorite Color Sealer
French Perm Stabilizer Plus Conditioner (pH 2.5)

Favorite Final Neutralizing Shampoo
Paul Mitchell Shampoo Two  (always on hand in case regular neutralizing shampoo does not wash out all the grease/oil from the relaxer service)

Favorite Moisturizing Conditioner with heat
KeraCare Humecto

Favorite Moisturizing Conditioner withOUT heat
Uans Crema

Favorite smooth edging gel
Design Essentials Natural Honey and Shea Edge Tamer

Favorite Gray Cover-up Temporary Solution
Roux T'ween Time Stick

Favorite Volume Shampoo/Volume Conditioner
Pureology Volume

Favorite Color Indicator Conditioner
NuExpressions 10 in 1 Conditioner

Favorite Luxury Shampoo
Pureology Nanoworks

Favorite Foil for Highlights
Sanek See-Thru Premium Professional Foil

Favorite Violet Conditioner
AG Sterling Silver Conditioner

Favorite Dry Set Twistout Cocktail for Natural Hair
Mizani Moisture Stretch
layered with
Mizani Perfect Curls


NOTE:  Most of my clientele still receive relaxers and/or permanent Haircolor.  In addition, I use the same high quality hair care products on my small but growing loc clients.

Pureology is Partnering with the Hairstylist

Notice the term "New Formula" in the top corner? It seems that someone is listening to me. LOL!  Thank you Pureology for flagging your products when you change something.  Hairstylists really appreciate this gesture, and we hope that other manufacturers will follow in your footsteps if they alter their products.  Partnering with hairstylist to keep us updated on changes and to keep fresh product on the shelves is important!

Discontinued Products: Gone but not Forgotten

"Unforgettable . . . that's what they are" in my "Nat King Cole" high pitched voice. If I could put my Applebaum logo on these discontinued products and sell them under my own umbrella, then I would.

I believe price points caused these products to be discontinued.  For example, the jar of luxury Pureology Nanoworks Shineluxe hair polish retailed for about $42 USD.  A little goes a long way.  The jar would last you six months to a year easy depending on how often a week you shampooed.  However, $42 USD for a styling aid for most people is considered a luxury indeed.

Pictured:  Pureology Nanoworks Shineluxe hair polish.  Weightless, but tamed the flyaways on dry hair as a final finish.

I am on my last jar of Pureology Nanoworks Shineluxe.  I am going to miss it.  I have a lead on another product that may deliver similar results, but nothing definite yet.

Other unforgettable products include Sebastian Cellophanes Semi-permanent color in Deep Brunette.  The gray coverage on the same day as the relaxer was absolutely phenomenal.  I still have not found any other color line that works the same way.  Even the Sebastian newer version is not as effective on gray coverage.

I am also on my last bottle of Mizani Cutting Solution as well as Mizani Butter Blend Microfusion Penetrating Conditioning Treatment.  The $12 USD retail price point of the Mizani Cutting Solution was a little steep for an "ethnic" line with the words "cutting" in the title, but it really did have some fantastic ingredients and was well worth the $12 USD as a leave-in conditioner.  I wonder if the parent company L'Oreal would even consider re-naming and re-packaging the formula under a "non-ethnic" product line.  I think it would sell better at that price point.

Also, the Mizani Butter Blend Microfusion Penetrating Conditioning Treatment is irreplaceable.  I believe that many hairstylists did not want to purchase two conditioners for a relaxer system.  So many people missed out on this "jewel" of a conditioner.  I am on my last bottle.  I use it as a part of the conditioning step for my Paul Mitchell relaxer system. I have not found a replacement yet.

I may add other products to this list if they disappear from being offered, and a replacement is no where to be found.  If anyone else finds replacements, then do not keep the "recommendations" all to yourself!

Introduction: ColorProof Evolved Color Care line

Well, the rumor is that the original developers of the Pureology line (one of my favorites) has launched another product line called "ColorProof."  I finally got to try the SuperRich Moisture component of the line.  The Moisture Shampoo sudsed up nicely to be sulfate free.  The Moisture conditioner also delivers a scalp tingling sensation similar to the Pureology Hydrate conditioner.

As I run out of my Pureology supply, I will probably convert to this new evolved color care line.  I was impressed with the concentration of the product.  A little goes a long way.  I also had one client complain that the Pureology Hydrate shampoo smells like a "patchouli" plant which reminded her of her grandmother.  Apparently, that was not a good memory.  Smile.  Anyway, the Colorproof SuperRich Moisture shampoo smells like "cinnamon."  Hopefully, by the fall, I will gradually phase into Colorproof product line.

Product Review: Pureology Colour Fanatic Spray

The Pureology Colour Fanatic Multi-tasking Hair Beautifier Leave-in Spray has been bittersweet for me.  Initially, I loved it, and then after my extended use with various clientele, I found the spray could cause some dryness on relaxed hair.

So What I liked about the Colour Fanatic Spray is

1. It smelled like a sweet perfume which reminds one of something "expensive."
2. It detangles relaxed hair very well.
3. I can feel the strength in my clients' hair after completing their blow-dry service. 

So What I DO NOT like about the Colour Fanatic Spray is

1. It has sodium hydroxide listed in the ingredients list mid-way through.  Sodium hydroxide is lye, and long-term, all hair products with this ingredient can have diminishing returns over the long haul.
2. The strength that it leaves in my client's hair can also be drying to the hair.  If you have an oily scalp naturally or you keep your hair moisturized, then this potential drying effect may not be a huge deal breaker. However, if you are a mininimalist, then this multi-tasking spray may be more than you bargained for.

For the right person and the right service, it is a great spray.  I can see using this spray for the following services:

1. Pre-protection on the hair ends before relaxing the new growth if the hair is already tangled from a curly style.
2. Used as a cutting lotion for over-porous hair.
3. Used as a leave-in conditioner along with a soft setting agent to wet set the hair.

I will continue to evaluate this Pureology Colour Fanatic Spray for different purposes.  I think that I will finish up the bottle, but unless I nail a definite reason to keep it in my rotation.  I will not be purchasing it again.

Product Review: Pureology Precious Oil Softening Conditioner

One of my clients turned me on to the new "precious oil" category under the Pureology umbrella. I love the smell and the way the conditioner softens the hair.  I did not purchase the shampoo because the ingredients did not seem special.

The Pureology Precious Oil Conditioner has a lot of sunflower oil and very little soy protein.  It goes on very smoothly. It also works well under a heated dryer for those with relaxed hair.  For finer hair, one may want to stick to the 1 to 2 minutes without the heat to make sure the hair is not too heavy.

The Press and Curl Regimen to beat the HEAT!

The Summer Heat is on, and the only "Afro Circus" that you want to see is probably in the latest Madagascar III movie! (Loved it!!! in 3D! :)

On a more serious note . . . Are you all natural and want a press and curl service that will beat the heat?

I have been tweaking this regimen for years! This one is the best one yet!!!!!

Tools needed: Kizure Pressing Comb, pressing pad (optional), paddle brush, Marcel curling iron and stove.

Products needed: KeraCare 1st Lather sulfate-free shampoo, Bee Mine Botanical Moisturizing Shampoo, Mizani Moistufuse conditioner, Chi Silkeratin17 treatment, Joico Detangling Leave-in, Pureology SuperSmooth Elixir, Kayvel Creme Press, and Kayvel Curling Wave.

Technique: 1) Shampoo with KeraCare 1st Lather Sulfate-free shampoo once or twice if hair is extremely oily from a hot oil treatment, etc. 2) Shampoo with Bee Mine Botanical Moisturizing Shampoo two or three times until hair feels soft. 3) Towel blot the hair and generously apply the Mizani Moistufuse conditioner through out the hair. Comb the Moistufuse conditioner through the hair. Spray the Chi Silkeratin17 fortifying treatment through the hair layering the treatment on top of the Moistufuse conditioner. Comb through and apply the Silkeratin17 everywhere that the comb is catching in the hair. As soon as you are completely detangled from the Chi and Mizani cocktail, then sit under the platform dryer for about 15 minutes. Not much longer because most of your work is already done . . . you detangled before going under the dryer remember? 4) Rinse the treatment out and apply your two leave-in conditioners for your blow-dry service. (Joico Leave-in detangler and Pureology Supersmooth Elixir) Comb through to distribute evenly. 5) Blowdry completely, start warming up the pressing comb, and then apply your Kayvel creme press. Distribute a nickel size amount emulsified in your hands trhoughout the hair, and that is all that you need. Comb the creme press to finish even distribution through the hair. 6) Test the pressing comb to make sure it is not too hot. Grab your pressing pad if you have one. Soft press the hair all over with pressing comb and pressing pad if your comb is starting to cool down on lengthy hair. The hair should be manageable by combing through without being bone straight. Warm up your marcel irons. 7) Comb the hair into a ponytail. If there are any extremely uneven ends, clip some of the hair ends off. Apply your a nickel size of Kayvel Curl wave emulsified in your hands throughout the hair. Comb through for even distribution 8)Test your marcel iron. Begin curling your hair and clipping the curls down until they cool down.

Then voila - your core press and curl is complete! If you need smoother edges, then decide if you need a temple pressing comb (small pressing comb) or just some smooth edge styling aids.

Results: Soft, straight hair without the grease! Very humidity resistant too!

Let me know how you like this technique and product selection!!!!

Keratin Treatment Alternative to try first!

I believe the price of keratin treatments have come down, but please consider spending $175 on the following products to achieve healthier hair and similar styling finish.

1) KeraCare 1st Lather Shampoo or any clarifying shampoo. 2) Pureology Nanoworks shampoo (luxury line - $55 for this one bottle, but worth it!) 3) Pureology Supersmooth condition (skip this conditioning step- if you have fine hair. The luxury shampoo has conditioner in it.) 4) Spray a generous amount of the Joico Leave-in detangler and distribute a small amount of the Pureology elixir for slip. Blow-dry. You should achieve a nice straightness. Then use Pureology Shinemax sparingly throughout and touch up any areas with a curling iron. Follow with Aquage Beyond Shine spray to tame any flyways! By the third try at this, your hair should be improving in health without all the flat ironing . . .

Mixed Bristle Brush Review: The Bulb

Examine these two brushes in the picture. Notice the vinyl bristles? The brush on the left has clear vinyl brushes with a "blunt cut" on the end. The brush on the right has white vinyl bristles with a "bulb" on its ends. Both brushes look similar at a quick glance, right? However, at a closer look from another angle, these two brushes are extremely different.

The Pureology brand mixed bristle flat brush on the right had me spoiled! It smoothed out hair effortlessly. Notice the "bulb" on the vinyl bristles? Well, that "bulb" is important for use on relaxed hair.

The "Cricket" brand mixed bristle smoothing brush on the left has soft vinyl bristles that hold heat similar to the Pureology smoothing brush, but the blunt end of the vinyl bristles on the Cricket brush prevents the hair from gliding through the brush. (i.e. It pulls the hair and holds it in place when trying to straighten out hair roots.) However, if you need to dry the rest of the relaxed strands, it may be too much tension. If you need a lot of tension on the hair, then choose the Cricket brush on the left, but also remember that damp, relaxed hair does not need a lot of tension neither does kinky curly hair because of the small diameter of the hair coils. The Denman brushes as discussed in a previous article have built-in round tips versus blunt tips. That is another reason that Denman brushes work well for smoothing hair. Please see my separate article on Denman brushes.

In addition, remember if your brush with the "bulb caps" starts to loose their "bulb ends," then it is time to throw the brush away. Notice that the Pureology white vinyl bristles have the bulbs pre-manufactured into the bristles so you do not have to worry about losing "bulb caps."

So it's best to spend extra money and buy brushes - vent brushes, paddle brushes, or smoothing brushes with the built-in bulb ends to save money and your hair in the long run! Here's to healthy, smooth hair!