Mesh and Magnetic Roller Sets with Color Baths

Gray Color Coverage plus Ivory Mesh Roller set by Benita Blocker

Relaxer Touch-up plusYellow Magnetic Roller set by Benita Blocker

This particular client has resistant hair.  Affirm Mild does not break the bonds enough to prevent them from reforming into its original state.  So Affirm Normal is the only relaxer that straighens her without irritating her highly sensitive scalp.  Resistant hair typically hold on to roller parts so it is a lot of work to blend.  We are pleased with her regimen.

Both clients have incredible shine in their final finishes.  It was achieved with Sebastian Cellophone semi-permanent color on my longer hair client in order to tone highlights, and on my medium length client, Dudley Clear semi-permanent color was cocktailed with her treatment.

Roller sets can keep relaxer clients' hair healthy.

The Soft Curl Look: Wave by Design

Another "very, Very, very" happy customer who had been accustomed to the Wave Nouveau system, but she was willing to try the Wave by Design System with me.  She loved it!  I did a few things different from my "body wave" client that I highlighted on my blog from a few months back.

1) I used the Design Essentials Restore to pre-protect her hair prior to performing the re-arranger step.
2) I used the "gray" perm rods.
3) I used a neutralizing bib in addition to cotton around the hairline to apply the neutralizing solution while she sat upright the entire time.
4) I re-used the neutralizing run-off from the neutralizing bib to reapply to the hair after removing the rods.  Then rinsing again.
5) I used a semi-permanent black haircolor for about 15 to 20 minutes at room temperature at the very end of the service.

I only trimmed about a good half inch off in order to keep her in a short style.

I have noticed that some people are inquiring if "phase 2" be skipped during the soft curl process assuming that they want the "straight hair" look versus "curly hair."  So my suggestion for those people who want the straight look, do NOT skip phase 2 of the wave nouveau or wave by design systems, but instead, use super size perm rods in lieu of the smaller perm rods.  Please see my separate blog article on "super size" perm rods.  The jumbo perm rods will give you a brazilian wave which is going to enhance the body in the hair, but still leave you with an overall "straight" look.  Skipping the phase 2 step entirely will probably leave your hair looking "stick straight." I highly doubt if anyone will be excited about that.

Surprisingly, with this client, I do not think that I would do anything different in the future except purchase an end paper dispenser tool to speed up the rodding time.

Her final maintenance was heavy moisturizing with the "Mist and Shine" spray, then Lotion sections at a time as I scrunch the hair with my hands.  Styling was simple!

Semi-permanent haircolor: The Clear Choice

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All semi-permanent haircolor are not equal.  I have found the Dudley's "Blank Clear" of their Fantastic Colors Conditioning Haircolor is my first and top choice for shiny hair.  Hands down.

When comparing it to the Nairobi Tru Colors' "Clear Gloss," the Dudley's gloss is crystal clear and absorbs quickly into the hair.  The Nairobi clear gloss is cloudy looking and seems to coat the hair versus absorb into it.

When charging extra for this clear color bath, the Nairobi clear gloss did not deliver dramatic results.  Whereas the Dudley's clear gloss, people are willing to pay extra after just one trial service.

Dudley's is the clear choice for semi-permanent conditioning haircolor.

Product Review: Sebastian Cellophanes color

Sebastian Cellophanes are a semi-permanent hair color. No mixing required. I have attempted to perform color baths with it, but it does not work well when cocktailed with a conditioner. The conditioner seems to dilute it.

However, it works well as a separate step. It does not save time, but it works!

Pictured is the Deep Brunette color. I love this color for gray coverage on the same visit as a relaxer service. There is NO red undertones. Also, it does not deposit excessively dark. I paint it on with a tint brush at the roots as to not disturb a client's highlights.

It should fade within a month when it will be time for another color service.

The Color Bath: Benita Blocker's version

Hair by Benita Blocker. As promised, pictured is my previously highlighted client with my version of the "new" color bath. I used Nairobi semi-permanent cocktail of Sierra Brown and Mahogany layered on top of my favorite moisturizing conditioner at this time. Heat processing was about 30 minutes.


The color rinsed out very easily and seemed to close the hair cuticle in order to give it a smoother finish. I used an all boar bristle round brush to distribute the hair's natural shine after rough drying it 70% dry.

The client had a lot of volume and movement in the hair. It was "blow in the wind" movement without being "blowing away in the wind." It was a healthy, weightless finish in which my client was very pleased with.

I also performed my version of the "natural black" color bath on a second client on the same work day. The final finish was phenomenal.

The clients are loving the new 2012 options, and I am too!

NOTE: I will try to add more pictures to this article as I can. All clients are receiving the traditional stove and marcel services. No flat irons.



February 4, 2012: Hair by Benita Blocker. I completed another color bath using the Nairobi Marigold semi-permanent color and the traditional stove and marcel. Marigold is "yellow-gold."

Also, the color baths should not be used to make damaged hair look healthier. The color baths are designed to enhance already healthy hair. So doing a color bath on dry, brittle hair can lock out moisture. The hair needs to be moisturized and healthy before sealing it with the direct dye from the color bath.

February 22, 2012:
Nairobi "pure black" semi-permanent color was used on my client with the black hair. It is a nice, natural, shiny black. Not jet black. Client had a wine colored permanent haircolor applied at home prior to getting the pure black color bath. I still do not recommend relaxer and permanent color with coarse, overcurly hair.

We will continue with moisturizing conditioners in order to keep the hair soft. My main goal is to showcase the true color of the "pure black" color.

Michigan Hair Stylist: Rob Willis International

I first met Rob Willis about five years ago at a hair show in Orlando, FL. I bought his "Refresh your color skills" dvd and a flat iron holder for the belt. As my followers know, I no longer endorse the flat irons. I have seen too much damaged hair everywhere I go.

But enough about flat irons! The DVD was an excellent buy! Rob Willis is indeed a visionary. He is a "thinking" hair stylist. He is definitely an educator and a colorist.

The funny thing about DVD's is that sometimes you buy them, and you are not ready to receive all the valuable information disclosed in it. However, years or more later, reviewing old DVD's again can be a breath of "fresh air" without travelling great distances to a class.

So four years later, I am reviewing Rob Willis' color Refresh DVD when he gave the coffee pot example about hair being transparent. I had always heard this but never truly grasped the visual.

So Rob describes in this dvd a clear coffee pot full of coffee. So you would see "brown" coffee but if you decide to pour out the brown coffee and put pink kool-aid in the coffeepot. You will probably then see pink kool-aid. Now if you want to change the color of the clear coffeepot again, then you would need to remove the koolaid in order to put another "flavor" or color into the coffee pot.

So everytime you need to change the color, then bleach/lightener or artificial pigment remover is needed in order to "empty" the pot in preparation to fill the pot with another color. This analogy to hair was right on time for me!

In addition to the coffeepot example, Rob Willis kept it real about the state of our beauty industry. He really stayed leading edge!

The other important topic on his DVD was about the "color bath." The color bath was essentially sealing the hair with semi-permanent color or "cellophane" color. I have actual done more color baths layered on top of conditioners lately, and I obtained wonderful results. This was one of my reasons for reviewing this DVD again.

The "color bath" idea had been embedded in my memory from the first time that I reviewed the dvd years ago. It did not seem healthy then because I was thinking that the color baths sealed out moisture. Our hair needs moisture. However, if you layer the color on top of a moisturizing condiitoner such as KeraCare Humecto, then the result are phenomenal with moisture sealed in.

The "color baths" can take your finished look to the next six figure income level.

Give me some time . . . I will be asking my clients for pictures again over the next few weeks.

In the meantime, the pictures of the flat iron holder distributed by Rob Willis International a few years ago.  It is designed to be worn on your belt.