Reality Checklist about Hair

Conditioners

Client complaint:  The conditioner dried my hair out. We do not need to use that conditioner again.

My response:  (after checking the client's profile) We have used that conditioner before, and you did not have any complaints.  In addition, it only sat on your hair for 5 to 7 minutes without any heat.  It may have been overhydrating resulting in the curls not holding, but I do not understand how a client can be so concerned about a conditioner's performance but the same client wants to maintain her chemical relaxer touch-up without any hesitation.????

Lesson:  No one should be more scared of a conditioner than a permanent chemical relaxer.

Hair Edges

(New) Client complaint:  I need my edges to stay straight for at least two weeks at a time- so if we need to relax them, then we can.  Then we can use a cosmetic cover-up wand to make the edges look fuller.

My response:  If you feel your edges are thin, then to continue to relax them every three or four weeks is going to continue to make them thinner.

Lesson: Sometimes you have to decide between textured edges or "no edges."  Face the reality of one's hair texture especially if you are over age 40.  Nothing recovers as quickly as we age including your scalp.  If one can afford to make peace with hair extensions and/or hair replacement for a few more decades, then it is all good.

Professional Color Alert Neutralizing Shampoos

Avlon Fiberguard Affirm and Avlon Affirm normalizing shampoos both work well to identify relaxer residue.  VitalePro's Neutralizing Shampoo had a faint pink alert, but no where near the intensity that Avlon's shampoos delivered.

These are the consumer and professional grade neutralizing shampoos that I trust with the Paul Mitchell relaxer service and any other relaxer system that does not have a "color alert" built into their relaxer system.  I have been surprised that despite rinsing along with one Paul Mitchell Shampoo two lather, I still get pink residue upon using a color alert neutralizing shampoo during my Paul Mitchell relaxer services.  The oily base used prior to relaxer application may cause the relaxer to not thoroughly rinse out. This is my theory since oil and water do not mix so a "color alert" shampoo is necessary to erase all doubt.

Design Essentials have Three Edge Gels!

2 hours later and my edges are still under control . . . Which edge gel did I use?

Design Essentials has these three edge gels:

1. Sleek Edge Control
2. Sleek Maximum Strength
3. Natural Edge Tamer

The Sleek Edge Control and Edge Control Max are in the Design Essentials purple and white line. The Natural Edge Tamer is in the Green and Gray "Naturals" line.

 Well, my new love is the Design Essentials Natural Honey and Shea Edge Tamer!  It tamed my edges the longest that any edge gel has.  It is clearly the leader so far.

As you all know, other edge gels would not hold my roots past an hour.  This Design Essentials Natural Edge Tamer is definitely superior for hold on my type 4c resistant hair.

It is very clear and has glycerin and honey in it.

Honestly, I don't think Design Essentials need three edge gels.  Why? If anyone is trying to tame their edges then it is probably because their relaxer touch-up time is approaching. The extra texture that they are seeing is "natural new growth" so in my opinion, everyone who wants smooth edges can just use the the edge gel in the Design Essentials Natural category.

I have not tried the Sleek Edge Control nor its Maximum Strength, and I do not plan to offer it in my salon unless someone gives me a good reason why.  

On a separate note, the edge tamer gel can look a little "cakey" when other products are on the hair.  It may be a deal breaker for some and not a huge deal for others.

Wrestling with the Hair Demons

 Well, to my surprise during this 2014 Sisterlocks training, the Sisterlocks(tm) instructor helped me to realize that I was still wrestling with hair demons.  What are hair demons?

The hair demons are the ones whispering in your ear telling you

• That you need to straighten out those "beadi-bees" around your hairline.  
• A smooth hairline is a more polished look.  
• Your hair looks soooo nappy.  
• You need to gel down your edges.  
• Everyone is staring at your "nigga" naps. (Sorry for any wording offense here.)

Well, you get the picture . . .  my curl pattern is no where near the beautiful Spanish wet and wavy or the Brazilian or the Malaysian or the Indonesia curl patterns.  Many "weave" wearers do not naturally grow this type of hair, but they love to wear the exotic look of other cultures.

With most of my hair clientele being chemically straightened or mechanically straightened, I am constantly teaming up with the hair demons to keep my clientele corporate American polished with a Spanish, Brazilian, or a European flair.  This is how I make my living.

I do not come from a support group of natural hair women.  I also know that as my locks grow longer and longer, they should draw attention away from my hairline. I am waiting to really feel like "I own" my hair in its infinite beauty and uniqueness.

As stated in a previous article about resistant hair, my hair around my hairline does not want to hold straight without some heavy duty protein gel, and I refuse to get that gel all built up in my locks.

The compromise is to wear my locks styled where the edges are covered with the length of my locks.

I did not realize that I have been breed with a self-hatred because my curl pattern is not considered "pretty" by European and corporate American standards.

I can only hope that as I gain more length the beauty of the uniqueness of my tightly coiled hair will intrigue people into accepting it as beautiful because it is mine.

Product Review: Silk Elements Straight Edges

Can you say straight edge HEAVEN????? My, My, My, My . . . this Silk Elements Straight Edges Edging gel had me at "hello!" No caking, No flaking, No buildup, and a friendly ingredient list including glycerin high on the list! Past due relaxer? no Problem! Non-greasy! Non-sticky! It is described as a fusion between a gel, pomade and wax.

Well after a day or so, the hold may disappear so remember the Luscious product by Bee Mine Products? You can use this Luscious cream moisturizer to reactivate the Edging Gel without re-applying the edging gel. You can thank one of my clients for assisting with this combination. I introduced both products to her, but never thought that one complemented the other. This may save a few more hairlines from being overprocessed with relaxer touch-ups!
Worried about price? Don't be! Sally's Beauty Supply sells the edging gel for about five US dollars. Now, the Bee Mine Products are more expensive. I retail the Bee Mine products in my salon, but you can also purchase online from Bee Mine Products.

Temporary Gray hair coverage

This grey hair coverage tip is compliments of one of my clients! I introduced the "Tween Time" cover stick to give temporary gray coverage around the hairline. I also introduced the "Total Transformations Edges" product to smooth edges down. However, I never introduced the two together. Actually, I fell out of love with the "Smooth Edges" product and discontinued selling and using it.

Well, over the years almost every black hair company has introduced their version of the "Smooth Edges" product/cream gel. So I picked up this one pictured by Silk Elements. It has a lot of glycerin in it. I liked the ingredients overall.

So how should you combine these two products? Well, apply the color stick to the hairline where you need gray coverage first, then apply the "straight edges" cream gel to seal and keep the color stick stain from rubbing off overnight and to keep the edges straight.

I have not put this combination into practice yet, but my client swore by it. Hopefully, the brand will not make a difference. I tried it on my arm, and it seemed reasonable. I will keep you posted on my client feedback on this tip in coming weeks.

Quick Grey Roots Coverage for hairline and part line.

Are you fighting grey roots or a white hairline? You want to save both time, money, and buy yourself about two more weeks without permanent color? Consider the Roux Tween time stick. Just spray the appropriate color stick with leave-in conditioner then apply in the direction of the cuticle. Keep spraying the stick and reapplying as needed. It should go on your hair while it is dry. I think this brand is the most popular color stick on the market. I keep the "dark brown" and the "light brown" available in the salon for use . . . but your local beauty supply store carries them too!

If you are shampooing your hair at home, then consider also adding this leave-in temporary color by Roux. Color #18 Spun Sand seems to be a nice color blend for brown hair. If your hair is black, pick a darker rinse color. How to use it? After rinsing your final conditioner out, just pour a little Fanci-full leave-in rinse around your hairline and your estimated part line area. Style as usual. You may have to dab a little more around your hairline if the initial application of the rinse does not hold. Also, Roux came out with a foam/mousse version of this rinse. I have not tried it yet, but this liquid version works great! It seems to lay the edges/hairline down a little too! Yes, a bonus for for coarser hair! Careful, if you have finer hair. Also, I recommend buying from a Sally's Beauty Supply to make sure that the stock is fresher. You may still have to use a little of the Roux 'Tween Time color stick too, but it will buy you a week or two without the extra chemicals!

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Secrets to Smooth Edges

IF you have any curl in your hair, then you probably fight with controlling your front hairline. i.e. your edges! Well, here are a few tips!

If you have over-curly hair, instead of relaxing . . . . try blow-drying with a round brush that has an aluminum/metal cylinder after you have gotten most of the water out of the hair. I just mentioned three key points. "Aluminum/metal cylinder" will finish ironing out your almost dry hair as it absorbs the heat from the blow dryer. If your hair is too wet, then the brush may cause too much tension and pop. So after you get the edges dry and straight, then use dabs of Miss Jessie's Curly Pudding and a soft boar brush to remoisturize and add shine.

If you have slightly curly hair, then while the hair is wet, you can use a little Paul Mitchell Sculpting Lotion and Paul Mitchell Foam around the hairline then use the Blowdryer to finger massage the hair straight until it is dry!

Less healthy options will include heavy gels, but if you just need a quick fix then some noteworty gels are Hicks Total Transformations "Smooth Edges" as well as NuExpressions styling gel.