Some Professional Black Women Prefer Relaxers in 2017

Vitale Pro High Comfort Regular Relaxer service by Benita Blocker.

Paul Mitchell Regular Relaxer Service by Benita Blocker.

Fiberguard Affirm Mild relaxer service by Benita Blocker.

All Black women are NOT going natural.  More than half of my clientele receive relaxer services.  If it is not broke, why try to fix it?  For the Black women who love their natural hair and have discovered a routine, more power to you. For those who are ready to give up, my business was built on chemicals.  The "creamy crack" has been around for as long as the "pressing comb" - you can have healthy, long, relaxed hair.  

The most frequent relaxer touch-up service is at a 7 week period.  Some clients get a virgin relaxer once a year. Relaxers are more weather resistant.  Overall, they save my clients time and money.

Relaxer and Roller Set Success in November 2015

Hair by Benita Blocker

(Relaxer and roller set, NO Extensions)

Hair by Benita Blocker

(Relaxer and Roller Set, NO Extensions!)

Both of these clients are on the Paul Mitchell relaxer system.  I now use color alert neutralizing shampoos as a part of the neutralizing process.  As I mentioned in a previous article on this blog, my salon water tested to be more alkaline in pH so I am now allowing the final neutralizing shampoo lather to sit undisturbed for five minutes to make sure the pH of the hair normalizes back closer to its acidic level.

Styling aid for coarser hair:  Nairobi setting lotion with Tropical Roots Jamaican Black Castor Oil spray.
Styling aid for fine hair: Jane Carter Solutions Wrap and Roll foam

Hair by Benita Blocker

(Two weeks post relaxer)

This client in the pink top is relaxed with the VitalePro High Comfort Regular Relaxer.  Her hair is naturally gray. Nairobi Setting Lotion (from concentrate) was used to roller set this client.

May 2015: My Three New Opinions on Hair

Two Different tightening techniques on One Head

 April Atkinson of LockStar Salon (Charlotte/Miami) told me a long time ago that she only interlocks hair that needs to be interlocked.  I am happy to say that I agree with her.  I have two different curl patterns on my head, and one of them does not like interlocking so I will not be interlocking every single loc.  The majority of my locs will be interlocked, but the ones in the areas that were tempermental with relaxers will be twisted and allowed to go free style.  I still have not lost any locs but I have 3 or 4 that I am watching like a hawk.  I wrote about them in a previous article on this blog.

New Scalp Scrub Method for me

Also, I have been using my length of my locs to scrub at my scalp.  Since my hair is coarse and wiry, when rubbing against my scalp it feel like a scrub. Laughing out loud.  For you Loc-Sistahs with softer hair - this may not work.  It feels good to appreciate my hair for what it is and not worrying about what it is not.

Learning to love your hair as God gave it to you is a very powerful thing . . . I sincerely hope that more children and adults get the opportunity to embrace it.  

My final thoughts on Relaxing Hair

If relaxers were necessary, then God would have made them Himself.  However, I love having relaxers as an option because relaxers allow us "to get in where we can fit in."  Relaxers are a part of blending into society.  When used for that purpose, then they work, but when relaxers are done with hatred for one's own God given hair, then that hatred will prevent one from reaching their full potential as ordained by God.  So Relax hair for the Right reasons - NOT the wrong reasons.

Relaxers: Neutralizing Steps Explained

Folks, please use your head when it comes to neutralizing a relaxer.  Answer these questions.

1. When you base the scalp before applying the relaxer, what is that product made of?
2. What ingredients are in the relaxers that make them slick the hair down?

And the answers are: OIL.

Now, does oil and water mixed?   And the answer is NO.

So what would make you think that you can rinse all traces of the relaxer out of the hair without shampooing?  All of the oils will not rinse out without some heavy duty water pressure. Every salon does NOT have "fire hydrant" steady water pressure. So do not count on all traces of relaxer to rinse away without shampooing.

So with that said, disregard Affirm's recommendation to condition the hair before shampooing the hair.  This pre-conditioning has caused hair thinning in some clients.  Once they come to me, and I start shampooing before conditioning, then their hair begins to fill back in.

Of course, someone is thinking -"but Affirm says to condition while the cuticles are still open."

Listen.  What is the pH of water?  7.0  Right? 

As long as the hair is wet, trust me the conditioner will condition just fine right after shampooing three times.  Truth be told, the relaxers are so high on the pH scale that the cuticles will take about three days to calm down anyway.  The neutralizing process is designed to start to close the cuticle, but if you air dry, you will probably notice that the cuticles look frizzy because they don't actually close without some product help or some heat help - so ease your mind.  Shampoo all the bad stuff out before you condition.  Please.

And by all means, use the designated conditioner that goes with the relaxer system.  Too many people are adding too much extra protein during the relaxer process.  If your cuticles are open, then the hair shaft is going to absorb too much protein and prevent your cuticle from sealing back down.  This creates more frizz and more damage.

I have seen a lot of incorrect relaxing tips floating on forums and message boards. These tips were scary because the people giving them sounded like experts.  Be careful what you read when it comes to chemicals.

If my tips listed in this article does not make sense to you, then do not follow my tips, but do inform me if you have questions.

Suspicious Hair Chemicals at Rite Aid Drugstore

So today, December 16, 2013, I visited my local Rite Aid Drugstore in Cornelius, NC and decided to visit the ethnic hair product aisle.  I could not believe all the discolored packaging.  I inspected some of the boxes to look at manufacture codes, and I believe that some of this product had an expired shelf life.  Others could be spoiled from sun damage.

The surprising thing is that where these products were positioned in the drugstore,  there was NO sunlight nor opportunity for sun damage.  So I have reason to believe that either the packages came into the store "spoiled/expired" or  they were recently relocated to discontinue sun damage.  Either way, hair chemicals should not be sold if the packaging looks like these in this article.

Initially, I was thinking maybe this Rite Aid Drugstore was only neglecting the Ethnic hair products as far as keeping the products fresh for consumer purchasing so I went to the regular haircolor aisle, and I also found discolored packaging.  The fresher product in the back and the discolored packaging in the front.

Luckily, the newer packaging was behind the discolored packaging on both aisles so I really had a great opportunity to prove that it was not my eyes deceiving me.  

I have to change out posters in my salon storefront every other month because the sun discolors them.  So I know what damage the sun can do to artwork and inks within posters.  The discoloration that I saw on the shelves stuck out like a beam of light.

I have written other articles on expired products such as hair glue, styling gels, conditioners, setting lotions, etc.  Please do call the manufacturer to confirm that your hair chemical is fresh before using them at home.

Hairstylists, please stand your ground if a hair distributor is trying to push suspected old products on you.  After three years, most hair products are probably going to start losing performance. 

Everyone, please be careful of expired hair products especially if they are chemicals!

Relaxer Tips and Talk

For those who are not ready to go natural, here's some helpful relaxer tips and talk:

1) For those who have long length, make sure that the relaxer residue gets shampooed out of the ends as well as the roots.  Many times, I have focussed mainly on making sure the roots are free of relaxer residue.  I am thinking that since I only put the relaxer application at the new growth at the roots, I should not need to focus on the ends of the hair.  However, to the contrary, we do need to focus on the ends because they are getting hit with all the runoff water from the relaxer.  Those long ends will also soak up the relaxer water in the shampoo bowl as we thoroughly rinse, rinse, rinse.  Just make sure that you work neutralizing shampoo vigorously through the hair ends with each lathering; otherwise, if relaxer get trapped in the hair ends, then it will begin "creeping oxidation."  The client will experience split ends, frizziness, breakage, and some hardness in the ends.  How to correct this?  At home, client can use a lot of moisturizer to keep the pH from elevating until  she can make it into the salon for a deep cleansing shampoo in order to clarify the residue out of the ends.  After clarifying the ends, then another neutralizing shampoo lather can be used through the ends for pH balancing.

2)  Keep some NuExpressions Super 10 in 1 Conditioner on hand.  I believe it is the only conditioner on the market with a color indicator in it to identify relaxer residue and begin to neutralize it.  At the nape, sometimes I am uncertain if I see suds or diluted residue, I spread some of this 10 in 1 in that area, and if it turns HOT pink, then I need to rinse and shampoo again. So at any time, you question anything potentially relaxer related, just squirt the NuExpressions 10 in 1 and the truth will be revealed.  Clear or White means that no relaxer is present.  Again, Pink means relaxer is present.  Many neutralizing shampoos have color indicators which is good, but what if you have white lather after testing an area - with the conditioner you can leave it on and add their main conditioner to the rest of the head without having to worry about rinsing shampoo out.  The 10 in 1 conditioner saves time when everything is all clear.

3) Breakage points are at every turn in your natural curl pattern.  The less natural curl that you have, then the less break points and the least amount of relaxer penetration points.  The more curl to the hair, then the more breakage points to be concerned about.  In addition, even after the relaxer seeks out all the di-sulfide bonds and smooths them out, as one of my clients pointed out, the breakage points are hidden because they are relaxed straight, but they are still there.  This particular client never cuts her hair.  Two years without a haircut so far, but with swimming and her active lifestyle, her length seems to just maintain a medium below shoulder length.  She still gets relaxer touch-ups every three months, but she realizes that it seems that her length stays close to stagnant.  Actually, this reminds me that I need to ask her to come in for a protein treatment a week before her relaxer service.  I only would see her when she calls for her chemical appointment.  I need to push to get more people either doing their own protein treatment at home every couple of months or they should come into the salon for the treatment. The protein treatments will reinforce the integrity of the strands to prepare them for a chemical service.

There is Nothing Relaxing about Relaxers

In this article, I want to address everything from relaxer shelf life to relaxer getting into the hair follicle below the scalp.

First of all, many new clients tell me that their stylist goes behind closed doors to get the relaxer and then re-emerges with relaxer product in a bowl ready to use.  They really do not know what type of relaxer is being used on them.  Then some hairstylists even in my own personal experience will put what they want in the bowl despite your special request.

I personally offer full transparency in my salon.  I want my clients to know that I am not trying to play a "switch-a-roo" game on them.  I do not purposely position the styling chair so that the client can not see the mirror.  I know some hairstylists intentionally keep the client from out of the mirror until the very end of the service.  When performing haircoloring services, I do recommend keeping the client out of the mirror only because every colorist has times when they have to tone or correct some undesirable results.  There is no use in alarming the client when you know that you can fix the issue.

Now, back to the relaxer topic, Avlon relaxers typically have an expiration date of three years from manufacture date listed on their tubs of relaxers, but many relaxer tubs do not have expiration dates just batch codes.  That can be a problem because I read online that one relaxer brand ( I don't remember which brand) claims the relaxer shelf life is only one year unopened and four months when opened.  So does that mean twisting off the top to see and smell a relaxer starts a separate countdown for shelf life?  That is scary because with so many hairstylists working independently in styling studios in addition to the "natural hair" movement, relaxer tubs are no longer being constantly turned over because of the decline in relaxer services.

Los Angeles, California residents have been practicing the natural hair movement for awhile because of their low humidity weather.  One of my friends who was working temporarily in the LA area asked for referrals for relaxer services, and no one had a referral because they felt all hairstylists had "old relaxers" because of the low volume of relaxer service requests in the area.

Something else to consider about relaxers is that it is cosmetic and not strictly regulated.  So the consistency of the manufacturing of the relaxers can vary.  There is one brand of relaxer where sometimes when I would purchase it - it would be creamy  and other purchase times, it would be stiffer.  One time, it looked horrible and separated and upon calling the company, they said "due to the heat of the summer, the shea butter had risen to the top, and to just stir it up."  Who wants to pay top dollar for new, fresh product and it is defected????  I asked them take it back and exchange it for some better looking product/tub.  I am seriously planning to discontinue offering this particular brand as soon as I get everyone switched off of it.

I say all of this to say, we really do not have any control over what is in a relaxer tub.  It is a toxic chemical, and I believe, that as the toxic chemcial is softening/relaxing the new growth, it can seep below the scalp and into the hair follicle.  If the relaxer does seep below the scalp, proper neutralizing may be difficult below the scalp resulting in hair shedding.  If you suspect the relaxer to be causing shedding, then I suggest a thorough cleansing with Paul Mitchell Shampoo Two.  It is a clarify and neutralizing shampoo.  It should help detox the scalp and hair follicle.  You will probably need to re-hydrate the hair because the Shampoo Two can be a little drying to ethnic hair.  The dryness can be fixed with using the conditioner that comes with the relaxer system.  If it is the Paul Mitchell relaxer system, then I recommend using an ethnic conditioner to rehydrate.  No pure protein.

Please understand that I am not anti-relaxers.  My pre-teen client who just received her first virgin relaxer (separate blog article) a few months ago is doing extremely well.  Less tangling.  Less time to service.  More styling control.  The relaxer seems like the most beautiful thing on the planet.  Yet, I cautioned her that the chemical is still toxic and should not be performed too often.

Ultimately, relaxers are not going anywhere.  For 50% of ethnic women, they will probably have no relaxer challenges.  Then there is probably another 25% whose hair will not completely relax, but it will become vulnerable to breakage.  Then there is another 25% that will forever have relaxer challenges.  Relaxers and Recovery will become a vicious cycle.

So Relaxers are nothing to be too relaxed about.

Three Years Natural and Still Longing for Length?

I just completed a Mizani natural hair class, and my final questions about natural hair behavior finally came clear.  Remember in my past articles, we have talked about the curliest hair being most fragile?  Well, I am going to take that discussion even deeper.

Imagine every twist and turn in a hair strand to be vulnerable for breakage.  So the most wiry, kinky, zig zag hair has the most possible break points.  Right?  So when you see people who have been "going natural" for three years and their hair is still not any longer than three years ago, you ask what is wrong?

Well, It is breaking.  It is tangling. It may be shedding more because it is tangling.  Then it is trimmed regularly to keep some shape to it and to keep it from tangling as much.  It is a vicious cycle.  For some women, only sections of the head may have a really kinky texture to it.  For other women, they are dealing with a full head of "hard to manage" hair.

So what do you do to stop the breakage and start gaining length?  Here are the choices that I have come up with:

1) Relax it -  Pros:  Relaxers, soft curls, and texturizers eliminate some of the break points by reducing the curliness of the hair.  Cons:  The scalp which is living may suffer damage.  Also, chemicals plus heat styling could still weaken the already vulnerable hair.  So you may gain length short term, but you may lose density long-term.

2) Lock it - Pros: The natural shedding of the hair drops down into the dreadlock and compacts so that you never lose length.  You may still get breakage if the locks dry out, but otherwise, you are never combing out any hair as when you comb out loose natural hair.  Cons: Dreadlocks are not always accepted by certain social classes, jobs, and work environments.

3) Hard Press it- Pros: Hard pressing will eventually permanently straighten the hair or train it to stay straight.  Cons:  Healthy hard pressing has become a lost skill set because of the relaxer/ creamy crack generation.

These are the only three choices for kinkier hair types who want to gain length.

If you have a loose natural curl pattern, then you should have no problems gaining length regardless of chemicals or NO chemicals.  This topic really would not concern you unless you have a child whose hair is kinkier than yours.

So in hindsight, I wished that I had started my dreadlock journey a long time ago.  My scalp was always sensitive to relaxers from my childhood days and continued into my adult life.  I was always tenderheaded.  My hair has always been very hard to manage.

I think that I and my mom have spent much of my forty something years trying to control my hair.  If I only knew then what I know now,  I would have chosen to lock my hair a lot sooner, but we are on God's time and ordered according to His plan for us.

I appreciate the journey and knowledge gained along the way.

Should you Sue your Hairstylist?

Lawsuits as it relates to hair are always being tossed around. This article is based on what I know as a customer receiving hair services over the decades as well as working in the hair industry for a decade.

In my opinion, there are accidents and then there are acts of gross negligence.  Let's discuss what I think is considered gross negligence, and you should have no problem winning a lawsuit against a hairstylist.

1) Gross Negligence is when manufacturer's instructions are not followed resulting in immediate hair loss.

Example:  If the hairstylist is not using the proper measuring cup for sensitive scalp relaxers.  In the picture above, the measuring cup on the left is for Avlon's Affirm, Fiberguard Affirm relaxers. The measuring cup on the right is for Design Essentials Sensitive Scalp relaxers.  There are lines on the measuring cups.  The activator liquid should be as precise as possible when mixing the sensitive scalp relaxer.  In the picture below, I have an almost expired tub of  sensitive scalp relaxer  and the appropriate measuring cup. So when does this procedure become gross negligence?  If the hairstylist scoops out half of a "fresh" tub to conserve on product to possibly get two uses out of one "small" tub of sensitive scalp relaxer then she/he pours activator liquid into the reduced amount of relaxer without using the designated measuring cup.  So in essence, the stylist creates a "beyond super strength" customized relaxer and then puts it on the client's hair, and the client's hair breaks off 3 inches in the bowl and the cuticle is blown wide open.  This is gross negligence.  The activator liquid is the "fire" that makes the sensitive scalp relaxers work.  This mixing of a chemical should follow the manufacturer's direction exactly.  If the hairstylist uses another brand of neutralizing shampoo, then that is not gross negligence.  That is just bad practice.  But again, mixing the chemical improperly is gross negligence in my opinion.

Some of you may think that this story is far fetch, but I assure you it is not.  I was the customer when this happened to me and the hairstylist that ruined my hair that day still avoids me at all cost.  The only way that I knew what happened was because I had brought my own relaxer system with me because she was out.  (Flag!)  Then she attempted to base my scalp with "Equate petroleum jelly" until I told her "no." So she borrowed another stylist's proper relaxer base appplicator bottle. (Flag!)  After my hair length went from below my chin in the front to cheek level by the time that I left the salon, I just sucked the situation up until when I got back to my own salon and unpacked my relaxer system and realized that there was a half a tub of relaxer in my bag.  I called her to ask what did she do . . . she explained exactly what I described to you.  She was a "discount" stylist and was trying to conserve on relaxer.  After later researching how sensitive scalp relaxers work, I concluded that the permanent color (double processed hair) in the front and the "Super, Super Strength" relaxer concoction she created broke my hair off immediately.  She admitted that she did not notice the permanent color in my hair until after the relaxer service.  So did I sue her?  "No"   Could I have sued her?  "Yes"  She did not follow the manufacturer's directions.  I had a half tub of sensitive scalp relaxer as proof plus some before and after pictures.

On a separate note,  sensitive scalp relaxers should be immediately used after mixing them because they become increasingly unstable.  A hairstylist should NOT pre-mix the sensitive scalp relaxer to save time and store in the refrigerator.  A sensitive scalp relaxer mixed too soon before application can be more aggressive on the hair and cause some breakage.  This bad practice in my opinion is not gross negligence, but I would be cautious if the relaxer feels cool during the application process.  And yes, I had a different hairstylist who used to refrigerate the sensitive scalp relaxers that she pre-mixed.  I personally do not offer sensitive scalp relaxers because long term they have been proven to be more drying to the hair.  In addition, the Affirm relaxer line has improved to the point that it is tolerable for all clients including those with sensitive scalps.

2) Gross negligence is also experimenting on a client with a new chemical without knowing the ingredients or the chemical base of the new product causing immediate breakage due to chemical incompatibility.

Example: It is basic knowledge from "hair school" that thio based chemicals and relaxers are NOT compatible because they soften two different hair bonds.  Typically, thio based chemicals produce a distinct smell when applied.  So if the chemical procedure has a strong odor, then that is a "clue" to you that it may be a thio based process and should not be applied to a client with previously relaxed hair.  Breakage will occur if those two chemicals meet.  So with that said, some manufacturers will promote Keratin based services with a thio derivative to avoid saying it is thio based which is deceptive marketing.  If it is a thio derivative, then it still is not compatible to hydroxide based relaxers.  Some "texturizers" are also thio based.  I believe "Vigorol" is also a thio based liquid relaxer which is NOT compatible with traditional relaxers.

As a consumer, you should have the hairstylist write down the exact name of the "new" chemical that is being used so you can research the product in case you see abnormal changes with your hair.

All other "hair accidents" are just that "accidents."  If the hairstylist is overworked, lapse in judgement can happen.  In addition, some hair types respond differently to different procedures.

Also, hair extensions can cause damage to the hair during the removal process. So if someone is wearing   adhesive based hair extensions for three years straight, then yes, they may expect some damage has occurred over a three year span of removal and re-applications.  Who is at fault?  I believe that the courts would rule that hair extensions as well as relaxers are "use at your own risk" because both processes can cause damage, but most people take the risk because they like the finished look of a successful service.

Consumers should know that hairstylists are on the "front line."  If the manufacturers change their ingredients, then hairstylists are at the mercy of the new formula working, and customers must being patient enough to work through any additional changes that need to be made to continue achieving successful results.

Hair is a practice like a doctor/dentist/attorney.  It is never going to be perfect for everyone all the time.  We all make the best of it by continuing to learn and progress.  Let me know if you have questions about a particular hair situation.

Also, if you pursue small claims court, it may cost you over $90 to file the case.  So if your hair service in question costs less than $100 then why pay $90 trying to get $90?

So, unless the hair service costs over $200, then I do not recommend pursuing small claims court to get a refund. Most professional hairstylists will refund some monies before it gets that far.

Five Curl patterns Comparisons

I provide hair cutting services to a diverse clientele from Indian to Hispanic to White (hair type not shown here) to African American.  I have been taking the time to save some of the hair clippings  or hair left in the shampoo bowl to study and compare curl patterns.

Two Type 2 curl patterns are shown here.  I also have two Type 4 curl patterns shown.  I can see how a person with type 3 curl pattern could feel the need to relax their hair occasionally when compared to a Type 2 curl pattern.

Type 4 curl patterns must understand that there is no texturizer that will elongate their curl pattern into a type 2 nor type 3.  Most people with type 4 curl patterns are trained to relax their curl pattern to have a straighter look.  However, by looking at the type 4 curl pattern in comparison to the other patterns, it is clear to see that if relaxers are designed to seek after every curvature, it literally would be attacking the type 4 curl pattern viciously.  Even to "flat iron" type 4 hair seems that it would "press" the "curls" in versus straightening it out.  It is clear to see that locking type 4 curl patterns would be the healthiest, simpliest hair styling option, but many women are not ready to give up their "creamy crack."  They enjoy their straight edges because that is what they are accustomed despite the known toxicity of the chemical relaxers.

Women have to continue to evaluate their hair goals on a quarterly basis.  No one has to get relaxer services, but in order to "manage" certain hair types without locking it, the relaxer is the most trusted option.

Resistant hair: No Match for Relaxers plus Length

 So everyone is familiar with the different hair types being Type 1 through Type 4 with subcategories of a, b, and c.  Now, let's take the discussion one step farther . . .  Resistant versus Non-resistant.  Someone with a Type 4c curl pattern may have a finer and less resistant behavior than another individual with a Type 4c curl pattern who has a coarser, more resistant behavior.  So both people can have similar curl patterns, but the texture of the strands may dictate its resistance behavior and shrinkage behavior.

 This miniature "slinky" represents a "resistant" hair type.  When elongated, it naturally wants to spring back into its original condensed form.  This "resistant" hair behavior is excellent for locking because it likes to coil around everything in its path.  Extensions, braids, etc.   However, to straighten or relax this type of resistant hair, the relaxer has to work very hard to soften the bonds to rearrange them not to behave in its natural behavior.  Sometimes a mild strength relaxer is not strong enough to straighten a resistant hair type, but the toxic dangers to the scalp remain the same.  Alopecia and thickening of the scalp can results from prolonged relaxer exposure in an attempt to straighten resistant hair.

To test your resistance of your natural hair, just pull a strand of elongated hair from your head or comb and  drop it in a clear cup of water.  If there is no product or oils on it, then you should be able to see the hair strand do one of two things.   1) Either it will very slowly start to coil and shrink within a few minutes or 2) it will quickly coil and shrink at the "speed of light" like in two seconds.

If it is "speedy" then the hair is resistant.  If it is "slow" to coil, then it is non-resistant.  Non-resistant hair can grow long with the use of mild relaxers, but it may be harder to lock because of potential unravelling.

Now, resistant, coarse hair, is very difficult to grow long using relaxers.  Locks will grow it long, but relaxer and other straightening services will become a battle between style and health.  If a person with resistant hair can manage to style their hair for 8 to 10 weeks at a time in between relaxer touch-ups, then long length is possible.  However, most women with resistant, coarse hair can not get past their hairline becoming kinky within the five weeks period.

Decisions, Decisions.  Food for thought for those sitting on the fence about what to do next with your hair.

Most African Americans do not have African hair!

As far as the former Confederates States of America's territory goes, I do not know how many "mixed babies" were born to the slave women on the plantations, but clearly, since arriving on the slave ships from Africa, African Americans are more American than they are African when it comes to their hair texture.

Pictured is Kenya Moore, former pageant winner, current cast member of the Real Housewives of Atlanta.  Yes, I believe that this is all of Kenya Moore's hair without any hair extensions.  She has historically had long, luscious hair.  But . . .  her natural pattern is probably around a type 3 versus a type 4.  I consider a Type 4 curl pattern more of an African curl pattern.  If anyone of true African descent want to comment on my categorizing of African hair, then please feel free to comment.  I have never taken a trip to Africa; so I do not know any more than what I know through media coverage over the decades.

However, I have been providing hair care services to the public for about ten years.  I have seen all types of hair textures and hair curl patterns.  I am willing to say that 75% of Black women have hair that is mixed with some other race besides Africa.  Most Black women do NOT have what I consider true African hair.  Most Black women want a relaxer to enhance style; however,  most Black women do NOT need a relaxer.

 Now for the 25% of the Black women who do have more African textured, coily hair, who do need some form of healthy management of their hair are not being catered to by the ethnic haircare lines.   Most of the "Black haircare" caters to the 75% of the Black women who have mixed hair up to about a Type 4a curl pattern.





Just as I was concluding how many ethnic haircare lines do NOT cater to tightly coiled curl patterns, I was graciously given a 2013 calendar from a ethnic haircare line which only  showcases one Black model with hair that looks like it is more African textured.  One model out of twelve . . . Do you see her on the top row in the center?  So that is not even a 10 percentile.  Wow!

So ladies with extremely tight curl patterns, the relaxer application process as it is now is not catered to you. I am just being honest.  I have been trying to design a tool to better apply the relaxer to hair whose new growth compounds at the scalp, but it is not finished yet.

Anyway, for those who are willing to try Sisterlocks, or other locking procedures, it is the best option for those that do not fit into that 75% of Blacks that have mixed hair textures.  I know - locks are hard to digest when working in a corporate, political world, but this message is worth consideration.