Holiday 2019 Hairstyling by Benita Blocker

Press, Curl, and Cut by Benita Blocker, hair artist

Relaxed hair Blow-dry and styling by Benita Blocker, hair artist

Natural hair roller set by Benita Blocker, hair artist.

Happy Holidays 2019 to the Applebaum Beauty family!

Proven results: Gaining long hair under my practice

Three different (AHGC) clients with relaxed hair.

Applebaum Hair Growth Club (AHGC)

In today's society, social media influencers typically show before and after transformations all in one visit.  That all inclusive one stop is what lures most people in.  My practice is not built on a one day trip.  My three clients' pictured above have long, relaxed hair because we don't "fry, dye, and lay to the side."  I typically underprocess the hair before I would overprocess the hair.  Sometimes clients have to stretch their relaxer services. That means they sport a few more "ponytail days" to maintain the integrity of their hair and maintain their length.  This allows for gaining longer lengths with relaxers.

Over the years, I have learned that some hairtypes are "thirsty" which means that it soaks up the oils from the relaxer and the relaxer base.  Those hairtypes require extra clarification during the rinse out from relaxer services.  The extra clarification is a series of extra steps.  Hairstylists that are interested in learning more about these steps can pay for a consultation with me.

One thing that I decided to change since my Los Angeles trip is to discontinue using brushes/sprushes for relaxer application.  I can elaborate more during a paid consultation with me.

My relaxer clients were gaining length before my Los Angeles trip.  I mostly witnessed haircuts and molding while in Los Angeles. I was hoping for more color technique, but the clientele that class day were all solid black and short.  I always learn something new from every class that I attend.  Los Angeles was no exception.

So for those natural hair clients, I was so proud to see a natural hair client return to me for a service, and she had been FOLLOWING our regimen that we designed custom for her. Her natural hair has continued to gain length without me.  It confirmed to me that when the customer and I establish a regimen and routine that works that includes supplements (regardless of brand) - they are empowered to continue their regimen that works.

This is the basis of the Applebaum Hair Growth Club (AHGC).  There is no overnight magic to gaining length, but I can help people develop a plan to achieve longer God-given hair even if they use wigs or enhancements for glamour purposes.  Every practice is different.  Investing in my practice is an investment into yourself.

The Faux Natural Hair Styling on Relaxed Hair

Blue Flexi-rod  hair style by Benita Blocker

I used large row and small vertical partings to get my client's head completely under the dryer.  I pulled the pieces apart after the drying process.

Faux Natural:  My relaxed hair client is Free styling at home.

Long Relaxed Hair: The Bi-Annual Haircut

Blow Dry and Haircut by Benita Blocker

(Blow-dry was done lightly on unwashed hair to achieve enough straightness for a dry cut.)

It was time for my client's bi-annual haircut.  We cut two or three inches off every six months.

Typically, she wears her relaxed hair in a flat twist out.  The wet set helps maintains the healthiness of the hair.  She gets relaxer touchups every 7 weeks.  She typically gets her protein treatment a week prior to the relaxer touchup.  Without haircuts, her hair continues to grow as seen in the before and after picture above.  We do a chunky haircut every six months to "prune" her long hair back into a blunt look.

Don't get it Twisted: Curlformers, Lacers, Flexi-Rods, Perm Rods

Curlformer set by Benita Blocker. (Transitional hair - 15 weeks post relaxer)

Lacer set by Benita Blocker. (Relaxed hair)

Perm Rod set by Benita Blocker. (Relaxed hair)

NOTE:  Smaller perm rods hold the curly styling longer.

Flexi-rod set by Benita Blocker. (Relaxed hair)

Real Hair, Real Talk: The Real You!

All hair pictured are my actual clients.  Real Hair by Benita Blocker.

You can have your hair your way!

Hair falls into Four categories: 

• Faux Natural (Relaxed)
• Loose Natural
• Locked Natural
• Relaxed

Faux Natural:  My faux natural clients have relaxed hair, but they wet set in flat twists, perm rods, etc to give the illusion of natural hair.

Loose Natural: Everyone is born with Loose Natural hair.

Locked Natural:  Sisterlocked, Interlocked, Traditional locs, etc.  The loc nation is a part of my own personal hair journey.

Relaxed hair:  If it works for you, then no use in fixing anything that is not broken.

The Aging Process:  Gray hair can be resistant to coloring and taming in order to keep it straight.  As my clients are aging, some are becoming double processed.  Haircolor plus relaxer touch-ups can make the hair temperamental and vulnerable to breakage. As clients are entering the age 40+  category, they need to prepare themselves for a potential new set of hair rules.

Faux Natural: Final Results from Flat Twisting

Faux Natural Styling by Benita Blocker

My client gets relaxer touchups every 8 weeks, and semi-permanent haircoloring to maintain her deep red color.  Her "faux natural" look is a result of flat twisting the relaxed hair, drying it, and unwinding each row one at a time.  There are no extensions so the longer the hair; the better.

I have many relaxed clients that get the flat twists and unwind them at home.  Some wear this styling all year long.  Some wear this styling during the summer months only. 

Clients can wear a headband or put it in an updo.  To maintain, most clients cornrow it at night in large rows to sleep overnight.

I call this styling "faux natural" because it allows my relaxed clients to blend in with the "relaxer-free" trend, and no one knows the difference!

Crochet Braids: New Tools Review

My new crochet braids tools:  1) Fusion hook (small latch hook) and 2) Hair Threader.  Those with ultra curly/kinky hair benefit from the thinner tools.  Those with shorter relaxed hair desiring crochet braids will also benefit from these thinner tools.

The popular latch hook pictured on the left seems too bulky to use on people with relaxed hair.  I used the Sisterlock tool on a prior crochet braid client, but I felt that I needed a closure latch on the Sisterlock hook tool.  So the Fusion hook tool is perfect because it is less bulky, and it is a latch hook tool.

The fusion (latch) hook can be purchased from Sally's Beauty Supply.

The bulk hair and braid hair options are expanding.  I have seen everything from Romance curls to Corkscrew curls.

Crochet Braids: 22 inch Deep Twist on Relaxed Hair

Crochet Braid installation and hairstyling by Benita Blocker

My client wanted a center part as well as an option to wear a side part.  I custom designed her front cornrow pattern to accommodate this request.

She also had soft, fine, relaxed hair.  I placed a lot of small cornrows in her hair to make sure the braids could withstand tool manipulation.

I used my Sisterlocks hook tool instead of a latch hook because I felt the latch hook would loosen up the small cornrows too much.

The Freetress Deep Twist hair needs boiling water to prevent it from voluminizing too quickly.  I dipped the rods at the final finish because the client brought the hair, but in the future, I would pre-dip this deep twist hair in advance of the crochet braid install.

This hair is a very silky yet textured hair. The silkiness of it encourages a lot of movement in the latching of it.  I highly reccommend using double/triple latching to prevent the hair from working its way a loose by itself.

My client wanted a flat look where "less is more." We were excited about her new look!

Crochet Braids on Relaxed hair by Benita Blocker

Crochet Braids using Mamba Havana Twists by Benita Blocker.

My client has relaxed hair.  The braiding pattern was inspired by youtuber Sadora Paris.

Using one 24" twist cut in half, I filled the first track in the bang area.

One 24" twist expands quite a bit.

This is about 7 Twists cut in half.  So 14 pieces.  This is a sideview of the client.  3 packs of the 24" hair will be more than enough for this medium length look. The brand of the hair is Janet.

After cutting the twists for shape, we tried the side part look.

I then cut the bang area for a flatter look. Please remember that going from a relaxed straight look to a highly textured look is mindblowing.  It can take a few minutes or even a few days to get used to the new look.

White Perm Rod Wet Set on Relaxed hair

Hair by Benita Blocker, 2015

Vertical placement. White perm rods. Relaxed hair.

This relaxed hair blends right in with the Natural hair movement.

Braided WrapAround Hairstyling by Benita Blocker

 Goddess braid wraparound hairstyling by Benita Blocker, 2014

This braided wrap around look can be achieved with natural hair or with relaxed hair.  Depending on the length of your "Expression" jumbo braid, you may have two to three revolutions around the head.

To achieve this look with relaxed hair, then the Janet Expression 3x Braid which is 86 inches long was used.  Because it is Toyakalon, it has a silkier look to blend in with relaxed hair.  Because the 86 inch braid is so long, the whole pack was required for this style.

Last week, I wrote an article about the Bijoux Expression braid which was around 80 inches long and more hair seemed to be in the pack.  Only a half pack was needed to achieve a similar 2 revolutions look on natural hair using the Bijoux brand of Expression Jumbo braid.  The Bijoux braid was Kanekalon fiber which is less silky in texture.

There are not many women of color with this look online so I may do a youtube mini-tutorial on the hairstyle; however, please do not commit me to it!

Keeping the extra long jumbo braid detangled is the trick to this style.  I charge around $55 for this hairstyle with full shampoo and blow-dry. Optional straightening is an additional charge. This hairstyling is considered protective styling.

Dimensional Highlights on Relaxed Hair

 Dimensional Haircolor by Benita Blocker. 2014.   My client has relaxed hair and dimensional highlights.  She has been on the Fiberguard Affirm Normal relaxer to control her Type 4a/b curl pattern.  So  can you guess how many color sessions were completed to achieve this dimensional highlighted look?

The answer is in the picture above.  Did you guess right?

The Paul Mitchell Super Strengthner in-process treatment is an important part of maintaining the integrity of the hair when achieving highlift colors.  Any color process that takes a customer more than three color levels above their natural God given haircolor is considered "high-lift."

Clarifying shampoo is also important to make sure that all the lightener is washed out.  Hairstylists need to judge by the feel of the hair as to how much conditioning needs to be done.  I used the Pureology Colour Fanatic spray throughout the hair before applying lightener.  It did not seem to interfere with the lightening process so I may have found another good use for the beautifier spray.

Review: KeraCare Overnight Moisturizing Treatment

First of all, let me tell you that my natural hair DIY "at home" clients are now buying two jars at a time of this KeraCare Overnight Moisturizing Treatment cream.

One of my clients even asked me how did that this product escape her product arsenal.  I told her that it is NOT under the KeraCare "Natural Textures" line.  It was introduced for relaxed hair.  She then responded "no wonder" she missed it.

Well, since I am selling this product at $15 a jar and two at a time, I started to re-examine why this product is working so well with natural hair?  Then I realized that the pH is 3.2.  It is acidic and is helping to seal down the cuticle.

Wow!  Apparently, if you roll  or Bantu knot your natural hair overnight using this Keracare treatment cream, you will wake up to a new head of hair!  (If your curl pattern is a Type 3 or Type 4a, then you get the picture of the process that I am trying to describe.)

Now, for my relaxed hair clients, they like this KeraCare cream better than the Mizani RoseH2O cream.  Why?  It does not have that lingering fragrance associated with the Mizani RoseH2O product.  The consistency of the two creams are about the same, but hands down, if you loved the Mizani RoseH2O cream, then you are going to be thrilled with the KeraCare overnight Moisture Treatment.

A little product goes a long way!

Figure Eight Hair Lacer Set on Relaxed Hair

 Hair by Benita Blocker.  This is  a figure eight (8) Lacer Set on Relaxed Hair.  We just completed the VitalePro High Comfort Relaxer.

I used Nairobi Setting Lotion and Foam for the setting agent.  I used mini-bobby pins and end papers to hold the hair around the hair lacer loops.

I placed the lacers in a brick lay pattern in order to finger through them and hide all the partings.  I finger teased the front hair at the roots to give the client a bob look.

Those with locs can also achieve this pattern.  It looks like a zig zag when unwrapped from the lacers.

Hair can also be elongated into a wave pattern by blow drying and finger stretching the zig zag set.

Hair by Benita Blocker.

Dreadlock Analysis at 11 months

I wanted to do an individual analysis of one of my (Sister)locks at this 11 month period.  My dreadlocks have two transitions in them, but you probably can only see one transition in this picture.  The obvious transition is where I still have relaxed hair hanging onto the lock.  

1) From the scalp to the length of the clip is the finger twist tightening technique. (around 3 months of new growth)
2) From the end of the clip to the start of the "stringy end" is the Sisterlock interlocking technique.  (around 8 months midshift)
3) The "stringy end" is my relaxed hair that has been woven using the Sisterlock interlocking technique.

So I can not visually tell the difference between finger twisting and Interlocking as far as lock formation.  I can only tell where I have chemically processed hair.

My dreadlock pictured above measures over 5 inches in total length including over 2 inches of relaxed hair.  I actually wonder if I had enough new growth to have even started Sisterlocks 11 months ago.

So by my calculations, I gained about 3 solid inches of lock length in 11 months. Considering my coily, zig zag curl pattern never showed a lot of length until it was straightened by heat or chemical, I am comfortable with my growth cycle.  In another 22 months, I should be a nice full chin level bob without the relaxed, stringy ends.  It may even be sooner who knows?

Well, we shall see!

Coconut Oil: Causing Hair to Tangle?

Yes! . . . there have been reports that "EVCO" (Extra Virgin Coconut Oil) has caused some relaxed hair to tangle.   One of my clients can attest to this fact as well.  Also, as I look back, when I have used the EVCO as a pre-shampoo treatment, I sometimes found that my clients' hair would become less manageable when it was time to roller set it.  Of course, I contributed the hair's misbehavior to "relaxer touch-up" coming due.  Now,  reflecting back, the coconut oil that I thought was supposed to be a benefit was actually a culprit for tangles.

I found an online list of 122 uses for EVCO from everything from "cleaning agents" to lubricating musical instruments.  Apparently, the fatty acids from the Extra Virgin Coconut Oil can coat almost anything.  Notice that the Coconut Oil is solid most of the time?  Many people prefer to use it on their hair during the summer months when it is less likely to solidify in their hair.

But back to my personal experience with "heavy oil treatments," I have had clients come in with Coconut oil, Ojon oil, etc to pre-treat their hair before their hair appointment.  If your hair is natural (no relaxer), then more than likely, you will have "No Problem."  However, if you have a relaxed., type 4 hair,  the coconut oil may act like a protein causing overproteinizing (overfilling) of the hair strands making it more prone to tangle.

Some natural hair cleansing creams and natural hair conditioners can also become protein overkill for Type 4, relaxed hair.

If your hair begins to have a mind of its own and becomes unmanageable then you will have to clarify it to try to strip the extra protein out, neutralize it with a low pH conditioner, recondition with a liquid moisturizing conditioner (versus a cream based conditioner), and then seal with a smoothing conditioner.

Need some product suggestions?  Please see my article on the  "Reset Regimen for overproteinized hair."

Relaxed hair: Sisterlock it or Not?

Yes, I was taught by my Master Sisterlocks Trainer not to Sisterlock relaxed hair; however, I have been informed by others that some Sisterlocks Trainers teach that "Sisterlocking" relaxed hair is an option.  In addition, my relaxed hair was put into my Sisterlock framework and is still doing fine.  So what is the best answer?  Well, I have determined that it depends on your hair type as to whether or not your relaxed hair should be included into the SisterLocks framework.

Pictured above is hair from two different mannequin heads. The black strands and black Sisterlock on the left is a coarser hair that has been heat trained/processed quite a bit.  The strands are more fragile and weak and very easy to tangle in the wash bowl.  This type of hair CAN be put into Sisterlocks because it does not try to unravel.  It may never "properly" lock, but it will be less likely to completely unravel.  It will stick together. Its natural behavior is to "tangle."  Even to undo the Sisterlock in this type of hair was very tedious.

Now, as for the the lighter/brown hair on the right, this type of hair is easier to unravel.  I had no problem undoing the Sisterlock out of this looser patterned hair.  This type of hair even in its natural state is hard to lock and hard to prevent from unraveling.  So I do NOT suggest putting this type of relaxed hair into the Sisterlocks framework.  Just "Sisterlock" the new growth at the roots and  roller set or curl the relaxed ends in its "loose" or free state.

I hope this helps in your Sisterlocks decision making!

Short Curl Pattern in SisterLock World

I found another gray hair. I believe that the curly portion of this grey strand is non-relaxed, and the straighter areas are probably relaxed.

In SisterLocks World, the diameter of the curl in the curly portion of this strand is considered "short." So this hair type is called a short curl pattern. The short curl pattern is usually the easiest curl pattern to lock minus the relaxed portion!

SisterLocks with Relaxed Ends

My SisterLocks consultant gave me a choice of locking my relaxed ends; however, I was taught by my Master SisterLocks Trainer that locking the relaxed ends was not an option. It is a fact that relaxed ends will never lock. So can you see the line of demarcation between the non-relaxed roots and the relaxed ends?

My length still consists of mostly relaxed hair that looks long and thin. I have had a lot of trouble keeping this relaxed hair from curling up into itself. My SisterLocks consultant called it "bubbling." During my first retightening session, she was able to work some of the "fat buds" or "knots" loose that had rolled up.

Pictured is a closer look at my SisterLocks. My roots are about 2 inches long and are not relaxed. Most of my hair length (about another 5 inches) is relaxed but in the SisterLocks locking pattern. I am struggling with the "locked" relaxed end. It seems hard to keep the relaxed ends from matting on itself. I have no idea if leaving the relaxed ends free would make the ends easier to control. Maybe? Maybe not?

On a separate note, the relaxed ends have different moisture needs, and I want to keep my length for styling purpose. However, in SisterLocks world, we are taught not to put anything on the SisterLocks. There is definitely a gap that I am trying to bridge. During my retightening sessions, a knot broke off of a lock, but it did not have any relaxer on it because it was a short lock around my front hairline. This leads me to believe that even my natural kinky curly hair needs more moisture to keep it from drying out and breaking.

The SisterLocks instructors told us that SisterLocks world is completely opposite of cosmetology world, but there is no way that every hair type should be treated the same in SisterLock World. Many of the SisterLocks sisters with kinky hair that I have met and read about all complain about not gaining length like some of the SisterLocks sisters with less kinky hair.

I personally am going to keep my hair moisturized from this point on. I believe that my curl pattern is too tight to unravel, but if moisturizing my hair interferes with my SisterLocks maturing properly, so be it! I will live and learn.