Three step Natural hair updos

Natural hair styling by Benita Blocker

Step one:   Blow-dry the hair straight
Step two:  Use Mizani Moisture Stretch product to double strand twist individually and/or flat twisted
Step three: Create the updo.  Long hair - bun styling; Medium length hair - try modern french roll

Natural hair bun styling by Benita Blocker

2005 Ultra Sheen models look like 2017

Ultra Sheen Men (2005) - 

Young Men today are trying to achieve the "fro" look that the  gentleman in the plaid is sporting.

Ultra Sheen Women -2005

Clearly, this picture represents 2017 hair but the candy choices lets you know that it is not.

Retro hair.  Recyling the look.  Any thoughts?

Custom Cut Reveal: The South African Haircut

Another summer haircut from medium long length to Short.

My client does not have a relaxer.  She maintains highlift haircolor.

We decided on a bob.  She did not want ponytail length.

The South African Haircut by Benita Blocker.

She can also wear her natural hair wet and wavy!

Natural Hair: Curling iron versus Flat iron

Natural hair styling by Benita Blocker

Natural hair curled using electric ionic flat iron. (Paul Mitchell Smoothing iron)

Using a One inch flat iron.

Same natural hair client curled using an electric curling iron.

Natural Hair styling by Benita Blocker

Same client, Using 1" electric curling iron

The electric 1 inch curling iron seemed to deliver a "soft press" result on natural hair.  The electric 1 inch ionic smoothing/flat iron seemed to deliver a "hard press" result on my client's natural hair.  

Her feedback: "the soft press did not hold the style long enough" - so it looks like we will be  using the flat iron for future hair styling sessions!

I love my clients' feedback!  We partner to find a good regimen for their unique hair goals.

And thank you to all of my continued supporters of this blog.  I figured I would change the pace with this article.  I will check in with my own locs on my next wash day which is sometime soon - I promise.  I have just been preoccupied lately, and  that is the beauty of locs.  No worries. 

Natural Hair Curl Comparison the 3D version

I have had a lot of natural hair questions lately.  I hope that this video helps.  If you are not sure of your curl pattern, then stretch your relaxer touch-up out for three months.  Flat Twist styling or other curly looks will blend in the textures. I do discuss curl reformation in this video as well.

From 'Fro to Flow: Thermal straightening

We just finished the blow dry service which delivered a big 'fro a.k.a. afro.

She did not want to lose her natural texture so I used the Mizani Thermasmooth Serum and Anti-Humidity Spritz along with Kayvel Pressing creme.  If her hair was more fine, then I would have skipped the Kayvel Pressing Creme.  Some people have mentioned that the Kayvel can cause hair to become heat trained so I would use caution depending on the hair texture and long term goals of the client.

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Healthy Hair by Benita Blocker

Conventional stove and marcel iron made it flow.  It does not have the movement of a relaxer or a smoothing treatment, but it showcases a relaxed look without worrying about losing one's original texture.

Preteen Natural Hair Straightening and Styling

My client is age 9 and is too young for chemicals and smoothing treatments.  We wanted to keep her final hairstyling age appropriate.

She had soft hair but the curl behavior was resistant.  This means that if I use too much product, the hair will look  stringy.  However, the resistance of the curl patten required some product in order to stay humidity  reisistant.

Her blow out went smoothly.  You can tell her by her big plaits unwinding on their own that this was a sign of resistance.

Her hair delivered a beautiful press, but at age 9, a ponytail was calling!

Preteen hairstyling by Benita Blocker.

The conventional stove and marcel irons were used to straighten this model's hair.

Natural hairstyling: Two Strand Individual Twists

Hair by Benita Blocker.   I used Design Essentials Honey Curlforming Custard to complete these two strand individual twists. This wet set is also known as Double strand individual twists.  This is my client's natural curl pattern.

Hair by Benita Blocker.  I gave my client flat twists on both sides in the front with a Pompadour hump in the top.  This was a New Year 2015 natural hairstyle!

Happy New Year Everyone!

Seven in One Hairstyling by Benita Blocker

Two strand twisted Mohawk updo Hairstyling by Benita Blocker

This extension-free natural hairstyling gives the client several hairstyling options:

1. French roll to the right
2. French roll to the left
3. Pompadour front with a bun in the back
4. Left side braid
5. Right side braid
6. Mohawk twist-out
7. Full twist-out

This hairstyle has flat twists on both sides and individual flat twists throughout the Mohawk area.  I can also style locs the same way.

To achieve this hairstyling on this particular client's natural hair, I blow dried her tresses first and then dry set using the Mizani Moisture Stretch and Mizani Perfect Curls.  She plans to forward me a few more pictures as she changes up the hairstyling.

******12/18/2014 Update  *********
My client decided to keep the updo in the back with a partial twistout in the front for her event!

Hair by Benita Blocker (final touches completed by the client herself)

Natural hair partnership!

***************

This is a Full Twist out from the same Dry set that I completed on her in the salon.  The client allowed the steam from her shower to expand her hair. Being natural does require some self-paced creativity.

Natural Hair Dry Set and Updo

Hair by Benita Blocker, 2014

So my client turned age 15, and she loves her natural hair.  She does her own hair about 100% of the time, but she had a special event where she needed a polished natural style in the form of an updo per her mom's request.

So after shampooing with conditioning shampoos, I skipped the conditioning phase and went for the blow dryer.  So YES! She was a full blow-out but no hot irons.  Her texture was moderately resistant so the blow dry phase took at least 40 minutes. Then I performed the dry set in the form of 2-strand flat twists.

If you remember, sometimes I have dry set my locs by using a setting agent on them from a completely dry stage.  So the only wetness on the hair is generated from the setting agents.  Dry sets cuts down on the drying time for natural hair.  For short hair:  40 minutes.  For medium hair: an hour.  Getting the back of the 2 strand twist cornrows dry is where the challenge is.  So your front is guaranteed to be perfect which is the area that most people focus on.

Because my client had a formal event on a Saturday, we shampooed, blow-dried, and dry set on a Friday.  She left out with cornrows to sleep overnight then we unloosened each one to deliver beautiful waves. I absolutely loved it completely down but because of the event and the formal dress that she was going to be wearing, an updo was a must.  I french braided the back up to the bottom of her ears, then I french rolled the rest.

It turned out gorgeous!  She was the second one that I used the dry set technique on and so far, it is a perfect score for both clients.  Great timing especially if the hair is a easy blow-out and quick drying time. Average price is $45 to $55 depending on how long the blow-dry takes. I actually used the Mizani Moisture Stretch and Mizani Perfect Curls cocktailed to achieve this look.

If the hair is too long or too resistant for a quick blow-dry, then I recommend trying a method that does not require blow-drying.  20 to 40 minutes blow-dry maximum.  If you have to "divide and conquer" in order to keep control of the hair, then that may be a sign that the hair is too resistant to dry set.

Review: KeraCare Overnight Moisturizing Treatment

First of all, let me tell you that my natural hair DIY "at home" clients are now buying two jars at a time of this KeraCare Overnight Moisturizing Treatment cream.

One of my clients even asked me how did that this product escape her product arsenal.  I told her that it is NOT under the KeraCare "Natural Textures" line.  It was introduced for relaxed hair.  She then responded "no wonder" she missed it.

Well, since I am selling this product at $15 a jar and two at a time, I started to re-examine why this product is working so well with natural hair?  Then I realized that the pH is 3.2.  It is acidic and is helping to seal down the cuticle.

Wow!  Apparently, if you roll  or Bantu knot your natural hair overnight using this Keracare treatment cream, you will wake up to a new head of hair!  (If your curl pattern is a Type 3 or Type 4a, then you get the picture of the process that I am trying to describe.)

Now, for my relaxed hair clients, they like this KeraCare cream better than the Mizani RoseH2O cream.  Why?  It does not have that lingering fragrance associated with the Mizani RoseH2O product.  The consistency of the two creams are about the same, but hands down, if you loved the Mizani RoseH2O cream, then you are going to be thrilled with the KeraCare overnight Moisture Treatment.

A little product goes a long way!

A Legal Perspective on Natural Hair

One of my clients who is an attorney had a candid conversation with me on the topic of being discriminated against because of natural kinky hair.  This article is based on that discussion and is not meant to be legal advice.  I wanted to make that disclaimer.

As you all know, Carolinas Healthcare System laid me off within two weeks of my completion of getting Sisterlocks despite my seven years of seniority and no write-ups.  Their reasoning was that they wanted a consistent business model between their two nursing homes immediately.  Go Figure?

I asked my legal client that if the administration did not like my hair, then why not pull me to the side and say "that look" is not going to work here.  My client says that scenario would have definitely opened the company up to a lawsuit.  So apparently, it is in the company's best interest to just find some reason to lay you off or terminate you besides "your hair is too kinky."  And might I remind you that the states that have "employment-at-will" laws do not have to give any reason at all.

So,  for all the natural sistahs out there thinking that "the company has to accept you as you are," I would think again if you really want to keep your job.  If your clothes and hair do not fit in with the majority of your co-workers, then I suggest that you re-consider your image.

Interested in hearing more?  Human Resources professionals are scheduled to talk about natural hair as it relates to interviewing as well as in the work place at the next event below (Saturday, November 2, 2013).

Please go to the  http://www.forrealgirl.com/ to buy a ticket!  I will be speaking on the topic of locks at this event as well!

The Definition of Natural Hair

Hair by Benita Blocker, this model had a keratin smoothing treatment completed without extensions . . .

Is her hair considered natural?  If a person has dreadlocks, are they considered natural?

If you ask a White man what is his definition of "natural hair?"  His response is likely to be
"NO WEAVE, NO EXTENSIONS" means "NATURAL HAIR."

If you ask some Black women what are their definitions of "natural hair?"  There would be multiple responses such as

1. No texturizer
2. No relaxer 
3. No haircolor
4. No keratin treatments
5. No Heat
6. No Weave
7. No Extensions
8. No Wig
9. No Vigorol
10. No Body Wave

So if a White woman is wearing strand by strand hair extensions, then her hair is NOT considered "natural" according to some definitions of "natural hair."  Actually, some White men are considering dating outside of their race because they want a woman who is extension free.  Interesting . . .

Also, if dreadlocks are colored (with permanent haircolor), then the dreadlocks are NOT Natural by some definitions of "natural hair."

In a nutshell, there are very few people on this planet wearing their "natural hair."  So there is NOT a natural hair movement - only a "CURLY hair" movement.

Big Chop Remix: Cutting Off SisterLocks

I just met another lady who cut off her SisterLocks a few months ago. She came in for a relaxer service. She got me thinking. Let me research about others who have cut their SisterLocks off. I read two blogs and both ladies had long, gorgeous SisterLocks. They had followers who adored their SisterLocks. Once they entered into the "teeny weeny afro" stage; the compliments stopped. Their blog stopped. I have no idea what their story is now.

One common reason for the big chop off of SisterLocks was because women wanted to see their natural texture without the locks. They said that they wanted the freedom of free flowing hair. However, one blogger realized after the big chop that her curl pattern was much tighter than she had thought. (i.e. this was not a good thing.)

With all of this said, I realized that being able to keep your relaxed hair while your SisterLocks grow out is both a blessing for some and a curse for others. For me it was a blessing because last summer, I tried dealing with my natural hair one last time. It beat my a$$- up and down, left and right, and downright wore me out. I got a full dose of my natural hair, and the pressing comb did not seem to be the answer. "Texturizing it" was not the answer. "Relaxer upkeep" was not the answer. So rest assured that I know where I came from, and I am SisterLocked for life as far as I am concerned right now.

Don't get me wrong, last summer, I learned a lot about all the curl care lines so I have been a Godsend for others regarding product recommendations. All of my trial and error (mostly error) is paying off now as far as curly hair recommendations go and as far as virgin relaxer services go. Yes! All of that wrestling with my natural hair is really paying off one year later.

So to see ladies cut off long, beautiful Sisterlocks to discover their natural curl pattern . . . when, their natural curl pattern was right in front of their eyes; yet, it was in a manageable state called Sisterlocks - is disturbing.

So for those who found it to be a curse going from relaxer to Sisterlocks because they felt like they missed out on an opportunity. I respect that. I am sorry that they felt deprived. However, while they were transitioning in order to prepare for SisterLocks, their natural hair was there at their roots if they really dug in to see it. It was probably not as manageable which was why Sisterlocks was probably eventually installed. I know that I am making it sound so simple, but if you run your hands along your new growth with your eyes closed. You can feel your natural texture more than trying to visualize what it could be.

On a separate note, some people said that their SisterLocks were thinning out or shedding so they cut them off. Now, almost all of them had used permanent color on their SisterLocks. I am not saying that the coloring was the problem, but to be on the safe side, I have no intentions of coloring my SisterLocks. My curl pattern and permanent haircolor are not friends. I am not willing to risk damaging my SisterLocks.

So my point of this article, if anyone is thinking about chopping off their long, beautiful Sisterlocks to experiment with a short afro . . . you will probably find yourself just as "bound" as when you had SisterLocks. If your Sisterlocks are too plentiful to stuff under a wig then so be it - cut it all off if you will, but there is a 50/50 chance that you are going to eventually end up with a relaxer again unless you never needed a relaxer nor SisterLocks in the first place.

Product Review: Summit Mend conditioner

I was excited to meet a retired beautician at my local nursing home (where I also work as a hairdresser). Why did she tell me that? I started asking all of these questions about "pressing and curling." She agreed with me that these pressing combs on the market right now are not as good of construction as the "old school" pressing combs. Thank God I still have my twenty year old ones. Please see my separate blog article on pressing combs.

She described how they use to deliver the most beautiful press and curls back in her day. I asked her so "which conditioner did you use?" (because I know that your final results are based on the results from the shampoo bowl.) All she remembered was the word "Men" and it looked like a relaxer jar. She remembered only one beauty supply that still carried it. I tell you I was googling "men conditioner" and could not get a hit on the right thing until I searched on "old school hair products." Then Voila! Within the pictures of products, the conditioner "MEND" came up. Oh my God, that is it! It has to be. She remembered the "Men" but not the "d" on the end of it. So once I knew what I was looking for, I narrowed my beauty supply store down to large, foreign owned stores who carried everything from Murrays Pomade to Ultra Sheen.

So yes, I found it! I was so excited that I decided to try it on my own hair. I have mostly relaxed hair, but I am about three months post relaxer. So my hair has two different needs. My relaxed ends did not absorb the Mend conditioner very well; however, my underprocessed hair and new growth seemed to like it well. I had to follow up with Bee Mine Beeloved moisture conditioner through my relaxed ends to balance them back out.

The Mend conditioner has a pleasant smell to have "animal protein" within its ingredient list. So for relaxed hair - this conditioner is probably a "no go." But for the naturally kinky head of hair, this conditioner will be a good start toward filling the hair with protein instantly without heat in preparation for the press and curl.

The product is very thick; it reminded me of a "Crisco based frosting." It needs to go on wet hair versus damp hair. Read the directions on the jar if all else fails. Smile.

So I have Kayvel Creme Press and Kayvel Curl Wave as well as the Mend conditioner plus the old beautician's instructions about how much product to use. I will be experimenting on my kinky head mannequin next, but by George, I think I got it!

Choosing Healthy Hair over European Style

This picture was taken July 2011. This is the European, exotic style that the average man on a day to day basis have grown accustomed.
This picture was also taken July 2011. (It is an article update.) So I finally reached my six months without using a flat iron and was comfortable cutting the "stringy, heat damaged" ends off, and I have had quite a few men ask me so "what are you doing with your hair?" So my response is "riding out this heatwave." Their response is that you have a great smile; you can pull off the "motherland" look. It took me about a week to get a regimen down that works for me. Please see my article on "Day 2 is a charm" to learn more.

So of course, I have been struggling with conforming with what is more easily acceptable or choosing a low maintenance look that yells "culture."

By wearing my hair in a more natural looking state, I don't have any extra weight from hair extensions stressing out my scalp. I don't have to worry about it frizzing from humidity. I don't have to worry about sweating out my curls. I don't have to worry about a rainy day. I don't have to worry about the wind blowing it out of place. It can just grow, grow, grow.

Or I can choose to style it in the more socially acceptable way . . .

If I had a million dollar photo shoot, then I do prefer the European look. If had a million dollar presentation to give, then I do prefer the European look.

However, for day to day operations, I am going with a healthy low key routine until I grow it long again. I will continue to texturize as needed and then eventually fully relax it.

So I am choosing health over style for now. In the long run, healthy hair always has style. Patience is a virtue. Within another year, I will have an extra six inches to play with. I am looking forward to the future!

Cutting out the Middle Man: The Hairstylist!

This picture is from www.longerstrongerhair.blogspot.com. Being a hairstylist and also, being a woman with hair that has to be styled . . . I see both sides of the story. The economy, gasoline prices, housing losses, retirement losses and so on forces creative thinking in order to cut expenses.

When it comes to hair, you have products to buy and a hairstylist to maintain. You already figured out that you can not eliminate the products. If you have gray hair, then you may find haircolor necessary. Shampoo and Conditioner are also necessities. Styling aids are helpful to maintain a corporate professional look.

So the product manufacturers will not lose too much money. The beauty supply stores should be prospering.

Now, let's visit the concept of natural hair . . . the products to maintain the hair cost more than the regular shampoo and conditioner for relaxed hair. For example: You may spend about $50 per month buying quality natural haircare products and maintaining your natural tresses at home.

On the other hand, you were paying at least $100 per month to go to the salon to have your relaxed hair set/serviced.

If you figure out a low maintenance regimen at home then it will beat the time spent in the salon. Also, with the cost of living being so high - most professional stylists who are on track to retire in the profession are going to expect to make at least $40 per maintenance service.

So in a nutshell, people are looking for ways to cut down on costs. If you are an exceptional haircare professional, then you are a "cutback." Your regular clients will come see you when they need you. If you are just an average hairdresser . . . you may find yourself "cut out" unless you keep your prices really low. "The dollar menu" will always draw customers.

What inspired me to write this article was the upfront cost of the natural haircare lines. Expect to spend $60 to $80 to get started in maintaining your natural hair and you have to use the products almost daily. Whereas with relaxed hair, most people did not like paying more than $8 to $10 for any product. I suppose the expense of the salon service was a factor in overall cost.

Good luck in finding your balance. With kinky hair being worn all over the world right now, it is the best time to try to get away from the European standard straight hair. Please also remember that certain corporate professional environments still prefer the European straight look. Be your own judge.

Going Natural: Ready for the Big Chop?

First of all, please go without a relaxer for about 16 months before you get the BIG Chop! If you do not care about styling flexibility, then you can start with a small fro at anytime.
So if you go without the relaxer, then flat twist styling will be the best. This picture is from "about.com blackhair." While the hair is wet, flat twist five large cornrows (about the size of two of the small cornrows pictured) with an appropriate curl creme, then let them dry about an hour and a half under a pre-heated dryer. After they are completely dry, then gently loosen each cornrow (5) into a wavy style. Try to avoid heat styling for those 16 months because intense heat can cause permanent straightening of natural hair.

So you have waited 16 months? You should have about 8 inches of new growth. You are ready for the big chop! How to do it? Shampoo with KerCare Cleansing Cream about 3 times. This cream seems to condition as it cleanses. Do not expect a squeaky clean feel. Then condition with Sedal Obedient curls Anti-frizz conditioner. You should clearly see the difference between the new growth and the relaxed hair that is still hanging on. Using your hair cutting shears, cut the relaxed hair/straight hair off while the conditioner is still in the hair. The hair that falls is going to be a messy cleanup from the floor because it has conditioner all over it. Once all of the relaxed hair is cut away. You should have a head full of freestyle curls with conditioner on them. No tangles. No catching. Rinse the conditioner out and put in your leave-in conditioner while it is soaking wet. Which leave-in conditioner is right for you? If you are Type 2 or 3 for your curl pattern, then your choices are endless. If you are Type 4, then you will probably want a creme that will assist in stretching the curl pattern into twists for control until it dries, then try to style. Type 4 curl patterns are not the typical "wash n go" type. Only Type 2 and 3 curl patterns are easy to wash and go as needed. (i.e. low maintenance.)

If you are a type 4 curl pattern, learning to control and appreciate your curl pattern is a process. It may take 2 years to get it a routine down. Also, decide why you are coming out of the relaxer. Was it shedding? If so, the ceramic, ionic flat irons that claim they are "healthy" may have been the problem; not the relaxer. Please see other articles on this blog about the dangers of flat ironing.

Little Precious Princesses 2011: Beauty in Puffballs!

I am so grateful that the father of these two little angels allowed me to photograph his daughters. This was a quick snapshot. I only had a few seconds. A moment in time, but a priceless moment in time. I saw these two little angels and fell in love with the natural beauty of ethnicity. The sunlight distorts their beautiful hairstyle a little. I promise they have straight part-lines separating their puffballs! Those puffballs also had beautiful shine to them. Soooo how many puffballs do you see? Much care and love went into the styling of these two princesses. They are just adorable. Many people both young and old would typically try to relax, press, or straighten this hair, but this family has learned to embrace the God giving beauty of every curl! I hope that you can feel the love and beauty captured in this snapshot!

If those puffballs were straightened out, the hair would be "below shoulder" length. However, why mess with perfection? There is power in those puffs! Just lovin them! A symbol of patience, perservance, and pride!

The Best Detangler for all natural hair types!

Type 4c hair? No worries! Mixed Chicks deep conditioner softens all healthy hair types! So if you are naturally curly and not too "heat trained" then this conditioner works very quickly to detangle without any heat. 30 seconds to 5 minutes and rinse!
Mixed Chicks Deep conditioner works great on hair with tightly closed cuticles, and it will not weigh it down. On hair where the cuticle is eroded from heat damage, I have found this conditioner to not absorb into the hair. However, once the damaged hair has begun to heal and the natural curl pattern starts to return, then this conditioner will absorb and work fine. The use of "organic" coconut oil that is bought from a "Organic Specialty" type store is recommended as a pre-shampoo treatment if you think that your hair is heat damaged. Note: Organic Root Stimulant product line has a "coconut oil" blend, but this is not the same as a more "pure organic coconut oil." Also, many other product lines are adding coconut oil to their ingredients.

Organic specialty stores include places like The Vitamin Shoppe, Earthfare, Healthy Home Market, Trader Joes, and Whole Foods stores. Please search for my separate article on coconut oil.

Looking for Mixed Chicks Deep Conditioner? Beauty supply stores nationwide are starting to carry it or just purchase online from the Mixed Chicks website.