Resistant hair: No Match for Relaxers plus Length

 So everyone is familiar with the different hair types being Type 1 through Type 4 with subcategories of a, b, and c.  Now, let's take the discussion one step farther . . .  Resistant versus Non-resistant.  Someone with a Type 4c curl pattern may have a finer and less resistant behavior than another individual with a Type 4c curl pattern who has a coarser, more resistant behavior.  So both people can have similar curl patterns, but the texture of the strands may dictate its resistance behavior and shrinkage behavior.

 This miniature "slinky" represents a "resistant" hair type.  When elongated, it naturally wants to spring back into its original condensed form.  This "resistant" hair behavior is excellent for locking because it likes to coil around everything in its path.  Extensions, braids, etc.   However, to straighten or relax this type of resistant hair, the relaxer has to work very hard to soften the bonds to rearrange them not to behave in its natural behavior.  Sometimes a mild strength relaxer is not strong enough to straighten a resistant hair type, but the toxic dangers to the scalp remain the same.  Alopecia and thickening of the scalp can results from prolonged relaxer exposure in an attempt to straighten resistant hair.

To test your resistance of your natural hair, just pull a strand of elongated hair from your head or comb and  drop it in a clear cup of water.  If there is no product or oils on it, then you should be able to see the hair strand do one of two things.   1) Either it will very slowly start to coil and shrink within a few minutes or 2) it will quickly coil and shrink at the "speed of light" like in two seconds.

If it is "speedy" then the hair is resistant.  If it is "slow" to coil, then it is non-resistant.  Non-resistant hair can grow long with the use of mild relaxers, but it may be harder to lock because of potential unravelling.

Now, resistant, coarse hair, is very difficult to grow long using relaxers.  Locks will grow it long, but relaxer and other straightening services will become a battle between style and health.  If a person with resistant hair can manage to style their hair for 8 to 10 weeks at a time in between relaxer touch-ups, then long length is possible.  However, most women with resistant, coarse hair can not get past their hairline becoming kinky within the five weeks period.

Decisions, Decisions.  Food for thought for those sitting on the fence about what to do next with your hair.

Michelle Obama: The Healthy, Sleek hair Look!

First Lady Michelle Obama is looking great from head to toe! This sleek style can be achieved from having your stylist use the stove and marcel flat iron. It can be acheived with the hair being roller set in large rollers first then use the marcel flat iron to relax the roller set parts. If using magnetic rollers, try the purple or gray sizes. Use of a light foam as a setting agent will eliminate any challenges with weight and/or movement.

The blow dry service is still an option as well. However, sitting clients with fine and/or relaxed hair under a pre-heated dryer on medium setting for about 5 to 10 minutes with their ends clipped up will assist in pre-drying some of the ends. The ends are usually the weakest part of the hair strand. With African American hair, I still believe that women with extremely curly hair need the roots blown dry with some wetness in it. If they have a fresh relaxer, then the roots should be straight. Choosing the marcel flat iron over the electric ionic/ceramic flat iron is safer for those desiring to keep their length.

I have grown my clients' hair out to mid-back lengths within two year time period using these expensive ionic flat irons, but I have found that continued use of the ionic/infrared heated flat irons seem to cause permanent damage in the internal structure of the hair. This internal damage to the hair shaft eventually shows up "one day" out of the unexpected. Race of the client does not matter. Natural hair versus relaxed hair does not matter. Curl pattern does not matter. The results of continued use of ceramic/ionic flat irons will show up one day. It may take a year, a year and a half, or even three years. Depending on the heat protection products that being used, how often the hair is being flat iron per week, and the fineness of the hair will determine how soon the damage will show up. The hair will typically start showing signs of minor breakage before the excessive breaking begins. Again, your race does not matter.

I have had new Caucausian/White clients come in requesting hair extension service because of excessive breakage from ionic flat iron use at home. Returning back to the original electric curling irons and bulky electric flat irons for home use will be best for the hair when heat styling is needed. Please see separate articles on flat irons for "old school tools." Also, read your tool instruction manuals under "temperature settings." Some warnings are printed there.

I have been asked a lot lately about whether or not the heat damaged hair will curl back up for those who were naturally curly prior to their hair starting to go straight from the heat. My answer is maybe, but do not count on it. For coarser hair, the hair strand has more medulla, and the curl may return after a few months. However, if the hair stays straight after it is thoroughly saturated in water (i.e. shampooed), then it is less likely to return to its original curl pattern. That straight hair may either break off eventually or it may need to be trimmed away over the year. Either way, your new growth is your new focus. No more ceramic/ionic/infrared flat irons at home nor in the salon. Promise.?

Coconut Oil as an overnight hair treatment

Coconut oil seems to be the next most popular oil behind the Argan Oil. The coconut oil is heavy so I suggest that only coarse hair or double processed hair consider using it as a treatment. It is a solid that will liquefy with body heat. It can be greasy, but when used as an overnight treatment to be shampooed the next day, it leaves the hair extra soft! According to the "IndianSpectra" magazine, they recommend this treatment twice a week. However, remember you are to shampoo the next day so that the hair is not too heavy.
According to the instructions, this brand can be used to cook with, consumed as a dietary supplement, used as a skin care regimen as well as a hair treatment. It does smell a little like a cooking oil. Also, a little goes a long way! It can be purchased from the Vitamin Shoppe and other "organic" food markets.