From the Desk of Loctician/Cosmetologist Benita Blocker:
1) If you want maximum styling options, then the locks need to be retightened at a 90 degree angle from the scalp. This can be done by completing a half or full interlocking rotation at the end of any non-interlocking technique. Otherwise, the lock should be held straight out from the scalp when tightening the new growth.
2) All twisting should be completed in a clockwise pattern. Keep your clockwise rotation consistent. This will help with lock uniformity.
3) Determine your natural curl behavior. If you pull your natural hair out, does it spring back like a "slinky" toy? or does it stay extended and gradually shrinks back up? Does your hair ever coil back onto itself or does it just wave out?
If you have "slinky" behavior, the comb twist with a fine tooth barbering comb is my best recommendation to grab and keep all of your coily hair pulled into the lock. This should prevent the locks from thinning out as well as keeping them uniform.
If you have less coily hair that grows away from the scalp, then palm rolling or some form of interlocking would be better. The comb twisting may make your hair harder to lock so I do not recommend comb twists for retightening.
4) All hairtypes can start locks with comb twisting to get scalp partings as desired. Interlocking may need to be combined with the comb twisting to get "hard to lock" hair to hold.
Questions about interlocking and interlocking tools? Some hints and suggestions are included in articles within my blog, but you can also research other sites as well for making your own tools or purchasing speciality tools.
5) 99% pure aloe vera gel can be found at Trader Joes. It has healing and moisturizing properties. It will probably save you money from the stockpiling of all the natural hair gels on the market now. Make sure that you are not allergic to aloe vera. The Jamaican Mango and Lime Locking Gel also has been highly recommended.
6) If a lock breaks off, then save it to be mended. If the broken piece is a small tip, then trash it.
7) If your locks look dry, then your scalp may not naturally produce enough oil to keep the locks moist. Everyone's oil production is different. If your locks need help with moisture, joboba oil or Jamaican Mango and Lime Island oil have received great recommendations.
8) Everyone's hair texture is unique to them, you have to find what works best for you. If your locks are not forming the way you want, then consider switching locticians. You will need to allow at least 4 months to see if a new locking routine is working. You will judge by the new growth area up to start of the existing lock after the locking change.
9) Remind the loctician that you do not want locks doubled up in order to maintain your original grid. If the loctician encounters a lot of locks that need doubling, then either the locks are not staying hydrated enough or the locking method is not working for your hair type. Partner with the loctician to figure out what can be done. If the loctician does not have any suggestions and does not offer to research into some suggestions for you, then you need to move on to another loctician.
10) Lock grooming and lock tightening are two separate services. Some minor lock grooming can be done at lock tightening time, but if you let your locks get seriously past due, then a lock grooming session may need to be scheduled separately from your tightening service. Lock correction is a separate specialty service as well. A long term plan needs to be set in place and the loctician needs to be on the same page with you.
I hope this information has been helpful!
