The Healthy Approach to Long, Relaxed Hair

Hair by Benita Blocker

My client is 3 weeks post relaxer.  She gets the Paul Mitchell relaxer every 3 months.  We used the MoisturRight Hair Repair Masque cocktailed with KeraCare Humecto conditioner under medium heat for 18 minutes. A Processing cap and a regular platform dryer was all that was needed.  No steamer.  

We used red, hard mesh rollers and Jane Carter Solution Wrap and Roll foam.  One hour drying time was enough to deliver the results pictured above.

My client loves to just let her curls fall naturally.

Reality Checklist about Hair

Conditioners

Client complaint:  The conditioner dried my hair out. We do not need to use that conditioner again.

My response:  (after checking the client's profile) We have used that conditioner before, and you did not have any complaints.  In addition, it only sat on your hair for 5 to 7 minutes without any heat.  It may have been overhydrating resulting in the curls not holding, but I do not understand how a client can be so concerned about a conditioner's performance but the same client wants to maintain her chemical relaxer touch-up without any hesitation.????

Lesson:  No one should be more scared of a conditioner than a permanent chemical relaxer.

Hair Edges

(New) Client complaint:  I need my edges to stay straight for at least two weeks at a time- so if we need to relax them, then we can.  Then we can use a cosmetic cover-up wand to make the edges look fuller.

My response:  If you feel your edges are thin, then to continue to relax them every three or four weeks is going to continue to make them thinner.

Lesson: Sometimes you have to decide between textured edges or "no edges."  Face the reality of one's hair texture especially if you are over age 40.  Nothing recovers as quickly as we age including your scalp.  If one can afford to make peace with hair extensions and/or hair replacement for a few more decades, then it is all good.

Professional Color Alert Neutralizing Shampoos

Avlon Fiberguard Affirm and Avlon Affirm normalizing shampoos both work well to identify relaxer residue.  VitalePro's Neutralizing Shampoo had a faint pink alert, but no where near the intensity that Avlon's shampoos delivered.

These are the consumer and professional grade neutralizing shampoos that I trust with the Paul Mitchell relaxer service and any other relaxer system that does not have a "color alert" built into their relaxer system.  I have been surprised that despite rinsing along with one Paul Mitchell Shampoo two lather, I still get pink residue upon using a color alert neutralizing shampoo during my Paul Mitchell relaxer services.  The oily base used prior to relaxer application may cause the relaxer to not thoroughly rinse out. This is my theory since oil and water do not mix so a "color alert" shampoo is necessary to erase all doubt.

March 2015 Relaxer Update

As you may remember that Paul Mitchell stopped manufacturing Mild and Super strengths of their relaxer system.  I did not have anyone on the super strength, but I definitely had one client on the mild strength.  The regular strength was just too much for her hair.

Since discontinuing the mild Paul Mitchell especially when most of the Mild strengths that were on the store shelves were expired, I had to try smoothing treatments as well as permanent color to texturize my client's hair for more control.  These alternatives helped, but they had not proven to be a long-term fix so to the "kiddie relaxer" system we went.

I decided on ORS (formerly Organic Root Stimulator brand) Girls version.  It was one strength, and you leave it on as long as you need it to stay on to reach desired straightness. I only needed 10 minutes before rinsing the product out, but it did not cause any damage to the hair despite the permanent color and smoothing treatments already exposed to the hair on previous visits at least two weeks apart.

For ultra coily hair types, the relaxer seems to deliver the most polished look, but not all coily hair is resistant.  Some coily hair is very pliable, and it will chemically straighten very quickly.  Others with the same curl pattern can have resistant curl behavior and a "super" may be an option.

On a separate note, when neutralizing the Paul Mitchell relaxer system, depending on the porosity of the hair and the hair type, I've found that shampooing a couple of times with the Shampoo Two before going to the Lavender Mint Shampoo will strip that extra grease from the base out.  Sometimes I may even finish the shampoo process with a Shampoo one if the hair feels too dry.  I think that each hairstylist will have to adjust the neutralizing shampoo and conditioning steps to custom fit the needs of the client.  I have even on occasions grabbed a neutralizing shampoo from a different brand as a final shampoo. The Nu Expressions 10 in 1 color indicator conditioner helps to let me know if relaxer residue is clinging to the hair as well.

I hope these relaxer tips come in handy. As always, sticking to the manufacturer's instructions is always recommended.  Also, the ORS Girls relaxer has its own neutralizing products included with the kit.  I used the kit as recommended.

Relaxed Hair: Conventional Marcel Ironing

Hair by Benita Blocker, January 2015. 

 My client was relaxed using the Paul Mitchell relaxer system.  I used the conventional stove and marcel irons for the for final look.

Hair by Benita Blocker, January 2015.

I refreshed her bang with a cut and trimmed her hair along the perimeter. The relaxer touch-up service left a slight bit of texture to her hair allowing for a healthy blow-dry and marcel iron styling.

Hairstyling: Flat Twist Wet Set

Hair by Benita Blocker, December 2014

My client of six and half years has been on the Paul Mitchell Relaxer system since day one with me.  She gets relaxed around every 8 weeks.  She has medium/fine hair and more of a  4b/4c curl pattern.  Her hair is moderately resistant.  The Paul Mitchell relaxer at regular strength gets her about 75% straight which is slightly on the texturized side.  She loves the Macadamia Nourishing Leave-in Cream cocktailed with a setting agent for her wet sets.

We completed about nine flat twist cornrows to achieve this wavy look!  Believe or not, this is day three of this look.  She has the option of doing an updo style as well as leaving it down.  We try to stick with wet sets such as roller sets and flat twist sets to maintain her length.  She gets regular trims, and she started out with a bob length when she first started with me.  We partner to keep her hair regimen working for her busy schedule!

Adding a Bang for a Hair Style Update

Hair by Benita Blocker

My client of four years decided she wanted a style change so we went with a bang.  She does not have any hair extensions in her hair.  Her hair looked like a wig leaving out of the salon.  We did a blow-dry/style to achieve this wavy look.  She let me know that everyone thought her hair was a wig until they reached into her scalp. 

This same client usually gets a roller set, and we just let the curls fall naturally.

My client receives Paul Mitchell relaxer touch-up about every 3 months.  (About 4 times a year)

My specialty is medium to long hair - the healthy approach. I usually cut about every six months for clients who want to grow length.

I welcome all hair types who want to grow length.  Sometimes loc'ing the hair is the best solution, but if the relaxers are working for you - I do not force people to go natural.  I am a hair partner.  Give me three to six visits to work my magic.  Feedback always helps in order to get a proper regimen specifically designed for you and your lifestyle.

For Red Carpet Ready Hair, call Benita Blocker at Applebaum Hair Salon!

Paul Mitchell Relaxers 2014 update

Hair stylists using the Paul Mitchell relaxers should start checking their batch codes on their Paul Mitchell relaxers.  The mild and the super strengths are the ones that need to be checked to see if it is expired as soon as possible.

If you see "s9" at the beginning of the batch code then the relaxer was manufactured in 2009 and is approaching five years old.  The Paul Mitchell company says that their relaxers have a three year shelf life. So as far as North Carolina is concerned, the main distributor for the Paul Mitchell relaxers has an overabundance of expired Paul Mitchell relaxer on their shelves in the mild strength as well as the super strength.

The mild strength and the super strength formulas are being discontinued by the Paul Mitchell company due to low demand.  Only the regular strength relaxer will continue to be supported.  The regular strength relaxer seems to remain fresh on the store shelves.

This update from the Paul Mitchell company truly is a tell-tale sign that the natural hair movement is not slowing up anytime soon.

Sylists, if you have an expired Paul Mitchell relaxer return it to your distributor only if you have purchased it within the last sixty days.  They should exchange out for other product.   Any relaxer purchased outside of the sixty days may need to be trashed and counted as a loss.

I will be switching my clients that were on the mild Paul Mitchell relaxer to the Fiberguard Affirm Mild relaxer.

Retired Clients, Relaxers, and Color!

 Hair by Benita Blocker.  This client is retired and fights the "gray."  About every 10 weeks, we relax with Paul Mitchell relaxer- regular strength because gray hair can be a little resistant.  We also use the Jazzing Coffee Bean color at her roots only.  It gives her a highlighted effect.  Amazingly, each relaxer service actually lifts the previous color deposits to a nice highlighted color.  The "previous color deposit" is dark at the start of the relaxer service.  So there is "white" new growth followed by "dark hair" followed by highlighted-looking hair.  But by the time we relax, there is very little dark hair left so when I re-deposit the Coffee Bean color at the roots, then you get what you see here!  Love it!

Hair by Benita Blocker.  Hair was curled with marcel iron #40 which is the same size as a aqua color magnetic roller.

Paul Mitchell Relaxer Client: Almost two years!

Hair by Benita Blocker. My client started with me in October 2010. Her curl pattern is probably a Type 3c. I put her on the Paul Mitchell regular strength relaxer system.

Hair by Benita Blocker. She gets relaxer touch-ups about every 10 to 12 weeks. We just completed another relaxer touch-up and a traditional stove and marcel curling iron service. We trimmed the hair for some shape and used some Kayvel curl wave to assist with holding the curls.
My client uses the KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo Classic for home care because of the amount of texture that she keeps in her hair. She wears her hair in a bun on top of her head on bad hair days. She loves the Paul Mitchell Relaxer system. It works for her.

Achieving a Bedhead Look with a Salon Finish on Fine Hair

Hair by Benita Blocker, hairstylist. Many of my clients do not like too "fixed" in place hair. They want a great haircut and to be able to finger in place and go.

Hair by Benita Blocker, hairstylist. My client here has fine hair with a Type 4c curl pattern. We can not use any heavy sprays that would weight down the strands. Also, because of her overcurly texture, we must relax about every 6 to 7 weeks. The Paul Mitchell Mild relaxer is the strongest relaxer we can use. Because her strands are fine; the mild strength is a preferred choice. We also found that demi-permanent color is too strong for fine, relaxed hair. Fine hair should not be double processed. Relaxer and a "squeeze bottle, no mix" semi-permanent color is all that can be used.

Hair by Benita Blocker, hairstylist. My client loves style so we try to maintain a great shape. We used the traditional blow-dry and marcel irons to complete this style. At night, she can wrap and moisturize lightly with products like Bee Mine Luscious Cream Moisturizer. Unwrap in the morning and pick through.

Hair by Benita Blocker, hairstylist. We also used Paul Mitchell Extra Body Hairspray (light hold) to make sure she maintains volume as the weather is getting hotter.

DVD Review: Paul Mitchell Texture

I have so much to say that I do not know where to begin. Okay. First of all, the Black female demonstration model has closer to Type 3 curl pattern by my visual definition. Now remember all the articles that I have written in the past couple of months? Type 3 curl pattern can withstand more abuse than Type 4 curl pattern. So with that said, let me tell you, this Black model received the Paul Mitchell Regular relaxer along with the PM Shines demi-permanent color service followed by a round-brush blow-dry service followed by a Paul Mitchell flat iron service all in one salon visit. Hello! Relaxer plus "color with peroxide" plus aggressive blowdry plus flat iron . . . . now, you know . . . the model's hair looks great on this advertisement, but the styling team was going for style more than healthy hair.

If this model had type 4 curl pattern, her hair would not have had that much body. Also, the hair would be shedding and breaking from intensity of the chemicals and heat. Please see my other article on demi-permanent color rules for type 4 curl patterns.

Other DVD details include: PM Shines is a demi-permanent color that has to be mixed. Also, the round brush that was used was aluminum one similar to the one pictured in this article. They used Paul Mitchell Extra Strong leave-in treatment and "Super Sculpt" styling lotion aid in the round brush blow-dry. The handheld dryer and flat iron were both Paul Mitchell ProTools.

I have watched this DVD many times over the years, and it is only recently with my new vision that I really see how Black hairstylists are being mislead.

Paul Mitchell is a well respected name for professional haircare. It is scary to realize that the steps to create beautiful Black hair for one Black woman may be detrimental to the next Black woman. Good Hairstylists just want to do well. How do you filter through the good and the bad? Smile. Follow my blog. Smile.

My opinion of this DVD on Paul Mitchell Texture: Get this DVD just to check it out for yourself - I do not agree with everything in this DVD - but there is always some good information along with the bad in the "bigger picture." Happy New Year!

A Bad mix: Too much heat on relaxed hair

I shampooed, blowdried, and marcel curled my hair a few days ago. It felt great, but much thinner than I wanted. It felt like I had a fresh relaxer again. I have to admit, I have had a few stressors along the way too. Well, I ended up roller setting at night to achieve the body in this hairstyle the following morning. Of course, it had to rain, and the hair flopped. The good thing is that it is straight; unfortunately, that also feels like a bad thing. Remember that example some time ago where I talked about raw vegetables? As long as they are crisp; then there is more time to cook them. If they are too soft, then they fall apart.

Well, I think the Mild True Indulgence touchup followed by the regular True Indulgence touch-up four weeks later, and I applied it myself to my own head, was an overdose. Then I added the heat styling this week although I had been roller setting. Okay, you live and learn. It will definitely be another six weeks before I do another touchup. I think that I need to alternate Paul Mitchell relaxers with the regular strength True Indulgence. The mild True Indulgence is still a little too aggressive to apply at the four week period. The Paul Mitchell relaxer should be adequate enough to retexturize at a four week period until I can relax at a 8 week period with the True Indulgence. Also, roller sets, roller sets, roller set.

With straightness comes responsibility. I had to trim a little again for this picture. I am mainly focussed on growing out sides and front because I can always use the hair from these areas to make a ponytail or a simple, quick maintenance regimen. Also, I had abused the back of my head plus I sleep on the back of my head. I know it needs more recovery time.

I feel like I am rambling. In a nutshell, straight hair is great if you are blending hair extensions, but straight hair is more vulnerable. Avoid the heat! Also, True Indulgence relaxer touchups should be spread apart at least six weeks.

Now I know the power of the True Indulgence.

Review: Paul Mitchell Relaxer Super Strength

This hair was already texturized about 7 weeks prior with Paul Mitchell Super relaxer. (super strength) It has started to revert and draw back curly.
Performing a Paul Mitchell Super relaxer. Toward the end of the application, the relaxer was combed through the entire strands to try to obtain a more consistent wave pattern. Sixteen minutes (16 minutes) timing before rinsing. Taking photo was within the 17 minutes timeframe of rinsing the relaxer out.
Noticed that the super strength Paul Mitchell relaxer still left some wavy texture to the hair? This hair was originally a coarse, Type 4c curl pattern. It had been texturized before using a super strength application, it still has some curl to it.

I have mentioned in other articles in this blog about how "less aggressive" the Paul Mitchell relaxers are . . . a picture is worth a thousand words. The hair can be worn curly or straight.
This style was achieved after the Paul Mitchell Super Strength relaxer, blow dry and stove/marcel heat styling. It was too wavy to roller set. Those with Type 4c, coarse hair who desire straighter hair should look at a different brand of relaxer. This relaxer may not hold for you. Those with type 4c curl pattern, but fine hair - Paul Mitchell regular should be a good selection to start off with because of the "fineness" factor.

Many people are afraid of super strength relaxers. Rightfully so. Paul Mitchell can be your exception. Also, note: Color-treated hair is a different topic. Model pictured does NOT have haircolor nor highlighting in the hair.

Relaxer steps: Conditioner or Shampoo first?

Avlon products started the concept of conditioning the hair right after the relaxer is rinsed out. Avlon is the makers of Affirm and Fiberguard Affirm relaxer systems. Mizani followed in Avlon's success with their Mizani Butter Blend Relaxer System. The concept of conditioning the hair while the hair cuticle is still open sounds good in theory, but notice the pH of the Sustenance Fortifying Treatment pictured here . . . it is at 4.5. It is hard for the hair that is still at an elevated pH level to accept the lower pH "conditioner." So many hairstylist sit clients under the dryer trying to get the conditioner to absorb better. On a different note, what if the relaxer residue would not rinse completely clean from the hair? Water and oil do not mix. Sometimes the relaxer client has an oily scalp, and there may be too much base in the hair. Conditioning the hair with relaxer residue still in the hair is not good especially when you know that a pH of 4.5 is designed to start shutting the hair cuticle. Hairdressers are human. If your stylists is double and triple booked, she is moving quickly from one head to another. Let's not forget that hairstylists get tired and sometimes hungry. Hairstylists are not machines so there are so many variables that could result in different results with each visit. Sometimes the clients' regimen at home could change as well. Weather changes can mean hair changes. My point is that there is nothing exact about a salon visit. I recommend shampooing after rinsing the relaxer out. Okay. There is an exception to every rule . . . Paul Mitchell is that exception.
Pictured is Paul Mitchell's Super Strengthener In process treatment. According to Paul Mitchell's customer service, the pH is from a 9 to 10. It absorbs instanteously without heat and at such an elevated pH, it is NOT trying to shut the hair cuticle down. It is the only conditioning treatment that I trust to use after rinsing a relaxer out and before a shampoo. Even if there is relaxer residue left in the hair (hoping not), but if so, the pH of the hair remains elevated until shampooing. There is still another conditioning process after the shampooing as well. Two conditioning steps instead of one. Please see my separate articles on Paul Mitchell Relaxer System.

Paul Mitchell Relaxer Testimony

This is the newest re-packaging of the Paul Mitchell relaxer/retexturizing system. I never tried his relaxers in the old packaging. However, I wanted to share some of the clients' feedback on this relaxer system. 1)Client "A" shared with me that she had a history of flaking, abnormally itchy scalp, and psoriasis flare ups with receiving relaxers in the past. She was willing to try the Paul Mitchell relaxer with my expertise in application. Last report: Three weeks after receiving the Paul Mitchell relaxer Super strength, she still had NO scalp disorders and NO scalp irritations. So we agreed that we were headed in the right direction. The styling is still a little harder because some hair was underprocessed due to the fact that she had a full head of "virgin" overcurly hair. The term "underprocessed" means that hair is more texturized than it is relaxed. (i.e. 50% curl reduction versus 85% curl reduction) Any underprocessed hair can overlapped in the next visit with a touch-up service if desired.

2) Client "B" was easy to burn within a few minutes with the application of most ethnic lye relaxer applications. She was also experiencing some hair density changes with the "sensitive scalp" relaxer applications. (i.e. thinning) So she trusted me to start with the Paul Mitchel "lye" relaxers and it worked! Over the last six months, she now has a healthier scalp, increase in hair density, and "NO BURNING" even with the Paul Mitchell "Super" strength application.

Most people are scared of the Super strength relaxer and rightfully so. I have found that the regular strength Design Essential relaxer is STRONGER than the super strength Paul Mitchell relaxer. Example: "Client C" usually received regular strength Design Essentials relaxer that she received every 3 months. However, the Paul Mitchell super strength relaxer that she received only held her for two months. She decided to return to the Design Essentials relaxer for her next touch-up service. She wanted "more bang for the buck."

It is safe to start out with Mild or Regular Strength Paul Mitchell relaxer system if you are not kinky-curly in curl pattern and you are not concerned with straightness. Typically, I start everyone out with regular strength Paul Mitchell relaxers and move up to super strength on future visits if hair appears underprocessed with the regular strength.

Hair that is underprocessed can cause styling challenges and "popping" from the tangles. So finding the right strength is important. I do not offer "Super" in any of the ethnic relaxer lines. This should give you a good perspective of my thoughts on relaxer comparisons as far as strength is concerned. I actually feel that Paul Mitchell has more conditioners built into his Super strength relaxer than the regular strength. I feel that sensitive scalp clients may experience more sensation with the regular strength Paul Mitchell relaxer than they do with the super strength. It sounds weird, but my experiences are leading me to that conclusion.


Fine, overcurly hair should stick with Regular strength Paul Mitchell relaxer. I also suggest adding the Mizani Butter Blend Microfusion Penetrating Treatment spray to use after the neutralizing shampooing phase in order to infuse the oils back into ethnic hair.

The neutralizing shampoos used with the Paul Mitchell relaxer system can be "over clarifying" for some ethnic hair in my opinion. I get the best results by adding extra conditioners (such as Mizani Butter Blend Microfusion) in addition to the Paul Mitchell recommended "Lavendar Mint" conditioner.


Now, as for me, It took me about 14 months to recover from the "Bodipher" experience on my own hair, but I could not have done it without the Paul Mitchell relaxer system! I have found the super strength gives me about 75% straightness. That is straight enough to keep it humidity resistant.

Who should consider Paul Mitchell relaxers as an option? Anyone with a sensitive scalp and is receiving sensitive scalp relaxers in the salon. Here is a link supporting the dangers of sensitive scalp relaxers: http://www.dralisyed.com/2009/10/new-information-regarding-sens.html#more