Response to Fitness Magazine's March 2014 Hot Hair article

 First of all this article was one of the best hair articles that I have ever read in a non-fashion magazine.  It is actually page 35 in the magazine with title "The Seven-Minute Blow-out."  The content comes from Blow dry bar hairstylist Christopher Marrero.  Article written by Molly Ritterbeck.

Step one is Choose the right tool . . . Turbo Power Twin Turbo 2600 Professional hair dryer . . . to rough dry the hair without the concentrator nozzle in order to get the hair 80 percent dry.  Why? Because he says that "one of the biggest mistakes that women make is to use a round brush on sopping wet hair.  It's a time suck because your hair won't hold a shape when saturated with water."

So hold on- I know you "naturally overcurly" ladies already know - if you do not get control over resistant hair while it is sopping wet, then it is all over. However, hair is hair.  It makes you wonder are we ultimately damaging our ultra curly hair by using the aggressive heat straightening procedure?  Is there even a healthy blow-dry procedure for hair that is not naturally straight or naturally wavy?

Because there are probably over 40 different hair types in this world, there is no one procedure that is going to work for all hair types.  I describe the 40 different hair types in a separate article on this blog.

I only use hair dryers with twin turbo engines in my salon because Christopher is right about choosing the right blow-dry tool.  If you want a "Dominican" straight blow-out, then only a hair dryer with a twin turbo motor can produce enough heat to straighten out the kinks. There is a difference, but with that much blow drying heat and power comes greater responsiblity in how you angle the tool to avoid burning the client's scalp.

Overall, I love this article.  For the right hair types, wavy to straight, it is a perfect article.  However, just like my blog, some articles cater more toward one specific hair type versus all hair types.

We write about what we encounter in our practices.  Readers have to absorb what is right for them and let the rest pass on.

This article is just food for thought.  For some resistant, ultra-curly hair, this article may convince some people to re-consider locs for styling control instead of risking the damage of a bad blow-dry process.

Five Discussion Points for your First Salon Visit

(Topic discussed: Relaxer practices and styling warnings) So you narrowed down a new salon to go to? It could have been based on a print ad . . . or just a referral . . .
Here are 5 things to discuss on your first salon visit with a new hairstylist:
1) Request that no new products will be tested on you. You only want products that are in his/her regular rotation. Strange request right? As a new customer, you really do not know what is normal or not.
Example: I went to a hairstylist that put a half of bottle of hair spritz in my hair at the finish of the style. I called her a few days later because I was curious why she uses so much "wet Spritz" in her styling, and she told me that honestly that she barely used any spritz with her clients. So I was curious why I got almost the whole bottle sprayed on my head?????? She claimed since I was shampooing every week that it did not matter, and that maybe she as a hairstylist was not a good fit for me. Great! I felt that she did not even care to keep my hair healthy.
2)Request synergy in the relaxer service components. You do not want brand name relaxer applied and "off brand" neutralizing shampoo used.
Example: I received an Affirm relaxer, but the stylist used a Fiberguard Affirm conditioner. Both the Affirm and Fiberguard Affirm classes teach not to interchange the two lines. Use all Affirm components for Affirm relaxer; Use all Fiberguard Affirm components for the Fiberguard Affirm relaxer. In addition, if you see an "off brand" generic neutralizing shampoo to be used for every relaxer to save the stylist money - RUN!!!!
3)Request no mixing for relaxers and request no mixing for haircolor at relaxer time.
Relaxers that require mixing are typically "no lye" or sensitive scalp relaxers, and they are not healthy for the scalp for long term use. In addition, any haircolor that requires an activating lotion is considered a demi-permanent color. Some looser hair types can withstand the demi-permanent color on the same day as relaxer, but it is best not to risk it!
4) Request the stylist's proficiency level in the styling procedures that you want completed.
Example: If they are round brush styling once every few months then they are not going to be as efficient as someone who is always round brushing on a daily/weekly basis. Same thing with "press and curls" and barbering. If the stylist does not straighten nor cut kinky hair on a regular basis, then the final results may not meet client expectations.

5) Request the disposal procedures for leftover relaxer. Do they dump it back into the main relaxer bucket (contaminating it) or do they trash it? God forbid they apply relaxer straight from the main relaxer bucket. Double dipping over and over again. This unsanitary practice can spread disease.

If you are paying cheap prices for relaxer services, then you may assume that the stylist may be conservative with the amount of relaxer used or that the stylist is re-depositing the leftover relaxer back in the larger tub.


There are plenty of other questions that you may typically ask such as What is the salon grade? Do they have an active License versus a "permit?" How about specific certifications? Are they good with long hair or short hair? Please feel free to keep the questions coming!

French Hair Brush: Paraliss Tempo

Over the years, everything that has to do with hair has always fascinated me. I purchased this Paraliss Tempo by Paramount brush attachment several years ago.

It attaches to the nozzle of the handheld blowdryer.

The directions are in French I believe, but the picture is worth a thousand words.

I used this tool on my textured hair mannequin. I tried using it with a paddle brush, but it was clashing with the attachment. Only round brushes seem to fit in between the bristles and dryer nozzle area like a puzzle piece.

I really believe that there are newer tools that can achieve a similar result. But in all fairness, this tool seems like it would work best on straight or wavy hair versus curly/kinky hair.

This brush is a newer tool on the market. I believe it gives similar results as the french brush attachment. I had to use high wind/high heat to use this particular brush to straighten my textured hair mannequin. It is a slower process on kinky hair to use this brush tool. I will need to experiment more with wavy hair.

Would you use this brush on Kinky hair?

At first glance, you probably are thinking this brush is not for kinky curly hair. It looks like a porcupine. Right? Well, I have started using more boar bristle and mixed bristle flat and round brushes on kinky hair to smooth and straighten it during my blowdrying. Guess what? It works better than the Denman brush! The vinyl bristle hold more heat and the boar bristles help with giving more tension as you gently work the curly hair straight. The boar bristles help distribute the hair's oil, moisture, and shine serums. With this particular brush, I can crush it with my hands without any pain or sticking.

CAUTION: 1) Test the brush with your hands first to determine the roughness or Softness of the brush. If the brush feels like you are going take the skin off your hand, then no -- do not use on kinky curly hair.

2)If the brush is soft enough to use as the one pictured below, then blow dry slowly with an ionic blowdryer. Careful not to use too much tension too quickly. You really need to be able to see what you are doing. Keep straight partings as you go slowly and gently through each section of damp hair.

3) For relaxed hair, get about 50% to 70% of the water out of the hair either by towel blotting and sitting under the platform dryer for about five minutes or rough dry it with the handheld blow dryer and no attachments.

4) Soaking wet relaxed hair, a brush, and a blow dryer is a recipe for disaster. Please detangle and rough dry the hair first from the roots to the ends.

The Color Bath: Benita Blocker's version

Hair by Benita Blocker. As promised, pictured is my previously highlighted client with my version of the "new" color bath. I used Nairobi semi-permanent cocktail of Sierra Brown and Mahogany layered on top of my favorite moisturizing conditioner at this time. Heat processing was about 30 minutes.


The color rinsed out very easily and seemed to close the hair cuticle in order to give it a smoother finish. I used an all boar bristle round brush to distribute the hair's natural shine after rough drying it 70% dry.

The client had a lot of volume and movement in the hair. It was "blow in the wind" movement without being "blowing away in the wind." It was a healthy, weightless finish in which my client was very pleased with.

I also performed my version of the "natural black" color bath on a second client on the same work day. The final finish was phenomenal.

The clients are loving the new 2012 options, and I am too!

NOTE: I will try to add more pictures to this article as I can. All clients are receiving the traditional stove and marcel services. No flat irons.



February 4, 2012: Hair by Benita Blocker. I completed another color bath using the Nairobi Marigold semi-permanent color and the traditional stove and marcel. Marigold is "yellow-gold."

Also, the color baths should not be used to make damaged hair look healthier. The color baths are designed to enhance already healthy hair. So doing a color bath on dry, brittle hair can lock out moisture. The hair needs to be moisturized and healthy before sealing it with the direct dye from the color bath.

February 22, 2012:
Nairobi "pure black" semi-permanent color was used on my client with the black hair. It is a nice, natural, shiny black. Not jet black. Client had a wine colored permanent haircolor applied at home prior to getting the pure black color bath. I still do not recommend relaxer and permanent color with coarse, overcurly hair.

We will continue with moisturizing conditioners in order to keep the hair soft. My main goal is to showcase the true color of the "pure black" color.

DVD Review: Paul Mitchell Texture

I have so much to say that I do not know where to begin. Okay. First of all, the Black female demonstration model has closer to Type 3 curl pattern by my visual definition. Now remember all the articles that I have written in the past couple of months? Type 3 curl pattern can withstand more abuse than Type 4 curl pattern. So with that said, let me tell you, this Black model received the Paul Mitchell Regular relaxer along with the PM Shines demi-permanent color service followed by a round-brush blow-dry service followed by a Paul Mitchell flat iron service all in one salon visit. Hello! Relaxer plus "color with peroxide" plus aggressive blowdry plus flat iron . . . . now, you know . . . the model's hair looks great on this advertisement, but the styling team was going for style more than healthy hair.

If this model had type 4 curl pattern, her hair would not have had that much body. Also, the hair would be shedding and breaking from intensity of the chemicals and heat. Please see my other article on demi-permanent color rules for type 4 curl patterns.

Other DVD details include: PM Shines is a demi-permanent color that has to be mixed. Also, the round brush that was used was aluminum one similar to the one pictured in this article. They used Paul Mitchell Extra Strong leave-in treatment and "Super Sculpt" styling lotion aid in the round brush blow-dry. The handheld dryer and flat iron were both Paul Mitchell ProTools.

I have watched this DVD many times over the years, and it is only recently with my new vision that I really see how Black hairstylists are being mislead.

Paul Mitchell is a well respected name for professional haircare. It is scary to realize that the steps to create beautiful Black hair for one Black woman may be detrimental to the next Black woman. Good Hairstylists just want to do well. How do you filter through the good and the bad? Smile. Follow my blog. Smile.

My opinion of this DVD on Paul Mitchell Texture: Get this DVD just to check it out for yourself - I do not agree with everything in this DVD - but there is always some good information along with the bad in the "bigger picture." Happy New Year!

Boar Round Brushes: Marilyn versus Monroe

The Marilyn brand of boar round brushes boasts of being the first on the market with the hourglass design. The Monroe brand probably came second. It is hard for me to tell the difference between the two. I have not really used either brand excessively. Right now, my larger boar bristle brushes are Monroe brand. My smaller boar bristle brushes are Marilyn.

The hourglass design is supposed to give you a good hold on the 70% dry hair without having to wind the brush. Supposedly, it cuts down on carpel tunnel and/or repetitive motion.

I will have to keep you posted if I figure out a difference between the two brands besides their names.

Tool Review: Wire Mesh Rollers

These wire mesh rollers are truly ventilated for quick drying time, but they are not "magnetic." So hair does not stick to these rollers as well as they would magnetic rollers. End paper and a stiff roller pick/pik are needed to succesfully use these rollers. The hair length needs to achieve a few revolutions around them to hold in place. I have found that these rollers do not allow curls to actually set. So if you are going for the bone straight look with a round brush finish, these rollers would be a good start!



May 1, 2013 update:  Vented Roller clamps can also be used with these wire mesh rollers to hold rollers in place.  These roller clamps are plastic and can be used with hot rollers or cold rollers.

The plastic from the roller clamp will assist with firmer sets.  Also, because the clamp is vented, it helps promote faster drying time.

Technique Review: Round Brush Blow-Out

Hair by Benita Blocker. To achieve this sleek look, I blow dried the hair with a round brush. NO FLAT IRON. NO CURLING IRON. Round Brush only. Then sprayed some Aquage's Beyond Shine spray on it to tame some minor flyaways.

It is important to know that you need a hair dryer/ blow dryer with some serious wind velocity as well as some heat. The FHI Heat Nano Salon Pro 2000 was used to complete this job. This particular hair dryer features Low EMF. Please see my separate article on the topic of EMF.

I have featured other blow dryers on this blog. (Turbo Power, SuperSolano,and more) Please check out other blow dryer tool reviews on this blog. $150 for a good blow dryer is reasonable. You should get years of usage from it. However, if you spend only $40 on a hair dryer, you may get a year of usage out of it. If you spend at least $80 or more on a blowdryer, then more than likely it may have enough power to complete a round brush styling and get you past a year.

Your round brush styling does require skill in picking out the correct round brush for the job. Pictured is a Marilyn round brush with nylon bristles mixed with boar bristles. The nylon bristles hold heat and are designed for coarser; yet non-porous hair. I picked this round brush to complete this styling because the mannequin has coarse hair with tightly closed cuticles. For finer hair or porous hair, you may use an all boar bristle brush or a paddle brush.

Remember to rough dry each section to get excess water out of the hair before you start applying a lot of tension. Also, to determine if it is the right brush to use, please see how smoothly the brush slides through the hair without a blow dryer first. If it is snagging the hair, then it is the wrong brush. Also, the shorter the bristles are on a brush, then the less likely to get the brush tangled in the hair.

Mannequin Mania

Hair by Benita Blocker.
Haircut, Round brush styling, and a flat iron finish. Hair by Benita Blocker
Hair cut by Benita Blocker
Hair color by Benita Blocker (done in phases . . .)

Using the Round Brush for Hair styling

Round Brushes usually fall in the categories of "boar bristle," metal, or a "Cricket." When using any type of brush, you need to make sure the hair can pass through it without tangling before using a blow-dryer. This overview is just an introduction to round brushes. Choosing the right brush for you will require a consultation. Oily scalp versus dry scalp; thin hair versus thick hair; curly hair versus straighter hair are all factors to consider. If you have straight roots when the hair is wet, then a rough dry with your hands to get 80% of the water out and to add volume at the roots may be necessary before any round brushing begins. Curly roots need to be less dry to avoid setting the curls. Paddle brushes or Denman brushes may be needed for curlier hair versus the round brush. I will discuss other brushes in a future article. Stay tuned.
The metal round brush acts like a "curling iron." The metal heats up from the blow dryer heat. The metal brushes deliver the sleekest looks. Look for metal round brushes with short bristles versus long. I was taught longer bristle brushes can get caught in the hair.
Boar bristle brushes are known for both "cleansing the hair" and "distributing the natural oils from the scalp." Boar bristle brushes do not have to be round, but always look for "first cut" boar bristle brushes. The "Marilyn" and the "Monroe" brands of round brushes are the leading brands for boar bristle brushes. The "first cut" boar bristles should have a rounder tip (taken from the bulb) and should feel softer.
The "Cricket" brush is considered static-free and great for areas that you want to hold taut (tight) while blowdrying straight such as your hairline. These brushes have rounded tips and lengthy bristles so carefully not to get the brush caught in the hair.

Again, this is an overview on round brushes. I will be discussing blow dryers, leave-in conditioners, etc in a separate upcoming article. There is enough information in this article to get you started on the right track with your own research for your own hair type.