Relaxers: Curl Elongation Percentages

I received this chart from one of my continuing education classes. It shows curl reduction or curl elongation from 0% to 100%. Typically, if a client is receiving a relaxer service, then I shoot for 75 to 85% curl reduction. Some hairstylists shoot for 95 to 100%. If a client asks me for a texturizer, then I shoot for 50% curl reduction. Where I run into a challenge is when a client tells me to texturize, but in reality, she really wants to achieve 75 to 85% in curl reduction. Obviously, as an end result we are not on the same page if she is used to hairstylists giving her 100% bone straight hair, and I am delivering 50% texturized hair which was what she had asked for by my own definition. So now, I prefer to ask clients in curl reduction percentages "What are they trying to achieve? 50% or 85% or 100% curl reduction?" That way, we are both on the same page. Of course, 100% curl reduction can be problematic for the hair long term, but that is a whole other story.

Just for Me Texture Softener packaging change?

If you see this old packaging of Soft and Beautiful Just for Me Texture Softener, please check to make sure the product is not expired before using it. I had a new client to call. She explained that she usually buys this "texture softener" every three to four months from Walmart for her daughter's hair, and everything always went well. However, the last time, she decided to run out to a local "national" drugstore chain to purchase her box of "Texture Softener." She started using it and noticed something was going wrong. She rinsed and shampooed multiple times, but it took about two weeks to get the granules out of her daughter's hair. In addition, there was a lot of hair in the bowl, and her daughter's hair has been breaking ever since. She said she called the company and based on the product code, the "texture softener" was expired by a year or more. This means that the product was probably manufactured about five years ago. The company blamed the drugstore for still having it on the shelf.

In the meantime, it has been an emotional toil dealing with the damage from using the expired product. I asked the mom about smell. She said that the product did not have a bad smell. I asked her if it even straightened or texturized her daughter's hair because usually old relaxers do NOT relax very well. She said that I was correct in that the product did not texturize nor straighten; it just caused damage.

So my theory is that the "conditioners" that buffer the "hydroxide" must have broken down and were not able to protect the hair. Relaxer have a high pH (alkaline pH). The conditioners that help prevent the relaxer from being corrosive probably were ineffective and could not balance the alkaline pH of the hydroxide.

I explained to her that just like a vegetable, if the hair is "overcooked" then you have to start over or gradually, trim it away over time.

Pictured is the newest packaging of the Just for Me Children's relaxer. The words "Texture Softener" is no longer on the packaging. I went to two grocery stores and one national chain drugstore (different from the one that the client went to) on yesterday and all of them had the new packaging of the Just for Me Children's relaxer on the shelf.

If you look at the top of the box, you see a product code that starts with "12." I believe that this box was manufactured in 2012. This box was from the drugstore. The two grocery stores had boxes that started with "11." So I believe their relaxers were probably manufactured in 2011.

I have written blog articles before about buying discounted hair products and calling the companies to make sure the product is not expired before using "clearance" products. Most clearance products are about to expire unless the company is discontinuing the line or is changing the packaging.

Let me clarify that the client paid full price for the expired product. It was not a clearance item. She just bought the "texture softener" from the drugstore for convenience. Buying old product can happen anywhere. If a store is in a neighborhood that does not cater to a "relaxer buying" population, it is probably going to have slower product turnover. This could lead to expired product on the shelf.

Just be careful with chemicals and all hair products. A shampoo that goes bad can cause the hair to tangle. The same thing for a conditioner that goes bad. Expired product may cause more hair challenges.

If more people start calling the companies to make sure their product is not expired, then this may make companies put expiration dates on the product packaging. Some lines do have expiration dates. Some stores hate expiration dates on products because they can not sell the product past the date on it. When the expiration date is not on the product, it makes them feel less liable.

Even as a hairstylist, I have to protect my clients. I have to make sure that my products are fresh. I have to pay attention to old and new packaging. I have to call the manufacturer sometimes to learn how to read the product code to make sure that I always purchase fresh product.

Hair grows a half inch of month. If you are used to long hair, then that can be a long two years if you have to start over.

Hair Battle Wounds: Confessions of a Hairstylist

Pictured is a "relaxer burn" down my neck from two days ago! Do you see the scab? It has been a battle. A real "OMG" /give me strength, wisdom, and patience was in order! So let me catch everyone up . . . I have coarse, resistant, type 4c hair and a sensitive scalp. My new growth had gotten to the point where I could not work with it in its natural state. I have some business meetings coming up and needed to Europeanize my look so I decided that it was time to relax my hair. I completed a strand test on some of hair that I had collected. The Chi Super Relaxer seemed to have left the test strands strong but a little dry. Please see separate articles for strand test, etc. I then completed the "first" relaxer service the following day after my strand test. The hair in the back of my head just did not process long enough because I started burning. Again, I have the battle wound pictured to show you that I was really needing to rinse the relaxer out. Luckily, my scalp did not suffer the same wound as my neck. I just do not think that my neck got the full rinse and neutralize. Accidental residue. But back to the story. My blowdry resulted in a slight afro in the back of my head. I straightened it, but it reverted by the next morning. Also, I should have trusted my strand test. My hair was too dry the next morning. I had some ends that were breaking. So the battle commenced again. I had a choice to put everything from organic coconut oil to Nexxus Humectress to Ultra Sheen on it. Smile. I put all three on it. I then tried to use the curling iron to re-straighten the back. I felt that I was burning my hair. So I was faced with the decision to either relax the back of my head again. Yes, one day later. Or keep burning it with the curling iron trying to keep it straight. No brainer for me . . . I went into the salon and used Onesta hydrating shampoo followed by Mizani Moistufuse conditioner. My hair felt 100% better. I rinsed out the conditioner and reviewed my curl pattern all over. The back of my head was just too underprocessed so I sat under the platform dryer to dry my hair without too much manuipulation. I based my scalp in the back of my head. I relaxed it again with Super Strength until I felt a burn. (I was determined to see what the Chi Super was capable of.) Luckily, the hair had become softer and more manageable. I still had some curl to it. I used the Mizani Moistufuse as the conditioner. I did the blowdry and marcels to straighten and curl. However, I was still looking like one of those women with relaxed hair that was past due for a touch-up.

I was ready to scream at this point. Two relaxer services in two days, and I am still not straight. I ran some errands with a ponytail style and a bang. You can not beat a ponytail! The next morning, the breakage on my pillow was significantly less. So the moisture level in the hair was much better, but I was still frizzy. So I told myself that God must not want me to have straight hair right now. So I wet it down again and put the KeraCare Defining Custard through it. I looked great. I went to run errands while my hair was still pretty damp. By the end of the day, I realized that my regular regimen of KeraCare Defining Custard had become very firm. (i.e. hard and stiff) In a word, my hair had done it to me again. I was a "hot mess!" Okay, I washed it again with the KeraCare Cleansing Cream followed by Mixed Chicks Leave-in conditioner. The frizzy afro was back within a couple of hours. Then I washed it again with the KeraCare Cleansing cream followed by the Sedal conditioner with Ouidad in it. I then sprayed the Ouidad Botanical Boost to prevent the KeraCare Defining Custard from setting too firm again. The results are the pictures above. I was finally happy. I am blessed that my hair withstood all of that within a 48 hour time period. I do not know if the Viviscal tablets that I take one a day made a difference, but it did not hurt.

God really works in mysterious ways. I was trying to get straight, relaxed hair, but that was not God's plan. We have to work within God's plan. The last few days have been a battle, but I think that God knew what He was doing! I had to adjust my wash n'go regimen a little, but I think that I have a style that I can deal with.

I must say that straightening the hair was not in vain. I performed two haircuts within two days. Once - right after each relaxer. It is all good. The last haircut was about five months ago.

Well, I am done with relaxing for about 8 weeks. By then, I should have a new relaxer system that I want to try. I have not given up on relaxers, but I have almost given up on ever being able to relax completely straight without burning. The saga will begin again in another 8 weeks when my one inch afro starts giving me styling challenges. Until then, I will let it grow, grow, grow while sporting my more texturized wash n' go look.

This hair battle has been fought with scars and all . . . however, I have lived to fight another day. Stay tuned for the next hair battle in a couple months. Smile. This sister has earned her medal of honor. My head is held proud. I could have "wigged it out" when it got tough, but I had promised myself . . . there is no turning back . . . you will tackle this type 4c hair with a sensitive scalp. There is too many sistahs out there depending on you!

I am charting waters that are not often sailed.

Most popular hairstylists seem to be either men with short hair or women that do not have Type 4 hair nor do they have a sensitive scalp.

My goal is long, healthy, semi-relaxed to relaxed "European-accepted" hair. I really feel that I am making headway. I just do not think that I have found the right relaxer yet. We will see within another few months. The saga will continue!

Relaxer Service: From Texturized to More Texturized

Yes! I caved in. It was time to relax my hair. I was a little sad, but I have a hair show coming up as well as some other business meetings. Although, nappy hair has nothing to do with my IQ, it has a lot to do with sales and decision making. In addition, I got so tired of people going into culture shock over my type 4c hair. Black people are not used to seeing their own African ultra curly texture. My hair kept shrinking on me. Even texturized some, it was a "bear" to control. Every time it shriveled up, everyone kept thinking that I cut my hair. When outside of the flat iron damaged pieces that break off, all the rest of hair was still there - just tightly coiled. So I could not take the stares that I had been receiving- plus my virgin new growth was a full inch in some places so I had an afro underneath of my texturized hair.
I used the Chi Deep Brilliance SUPER strength. My hair is resistant as you can see. I am still not bone straight, but most Type 3 clients never get bone straight when relaxed. I think that we have been brainwashed to think that our hair needs to be relaxed bone straight.
I still have a sensitive scalp. I based my scalp really well and let it distribute onto my scalp. I put protective solution on my ends. I self-relaxed trying to avoid touching the scalp until the last possible pass through.
About 20 minutess later, I started to feel the burn. Thank God that the Chi Deep Brilliance relaxer is a conditioning relaxer. It seems to have a delay before potential scalp irritation starts. I had completed a relaxer strand test a few days prior to self-relaxing to see how Super strength would do to my hair. Please see my separate article on "saving shedded hair for testing" as well as an upcoming article on showing the results of the relaxer strand test.

The "BEFORE" pictures show how unruly my hair had become. People are not used to seeing this hair. The "AFTER" picture is above and is more socially accepted. Hey! I still have some waves when it is wet. So I may work the "wash n' go" regimen when I can. However, I did trim/cut to get all the rigid ends off. I was trying to keep the ends from catching on itself. I still may get a little more cut off. We will see.

Day 5: Wash n' Go maintenance on Type 4c hair

My last relaxer throughout my hair was May 22, 2011. It was a Super Paul Mitchell relaxer. The end result was texlaxed versus relaxed. So I have been experimenting with my texturized, natural look. I had been fighting with product film with some combinations and too much shrinkage with other product combinations. I was also trying to avoid a sticky touch to the hair. I had found that water based sprays broke the seal of some of the products that controlled shrinkage. Now, I think that I have found the best combination for my texturized type 4c hair.

Pictured is Day five hair! I love it! My new regimen is to refresh with Ouidad Botanical boost spray. Then run KeraCare Defining Custard through it to prevent shrinkage; then add Jane Carter Solutions Natural hold locking spray! The results are shiny, fresh hair without buildup nor crystallization. Also, no starting over!

As my hair gets longer, shrinkage is okay in some areas for styling purposes. Also, I am still taking one Viviscal tablet a day.

Another Wash n Go Regimen for Texturized Type 4 hair

I really have been fighting with crystallization on my hair lately when I used the Kinky-Curly Knot Today leave-in plus the KeraCare Defining Custard. So I decided to add in the Sedal Co-creation Curly Conditioner that has to be rinsed out. I skipped the leave-in conditioner and went directly with the KeraCare Defining Custard. Pictured are the results of Day one hair. So far, I had less "film" on my hair, and it has control and definition. Reminder: My type 4c hair is texturized. Also, notice that the Sedal Co-creation treatment is enhanced with the Ouidad curl line technology. Please see separate article on Ouidad line for curly hair. Also, I am suppose to get the Kinky-Curly shampoo to try so that I can use the whole Kinky-Curly line at least once without crossing product lines.

Product Line Review: Ouidad

The Ouidad product line is for curly hair. I bought this bottle of Botanical Boost spray from Sephora. My Mary Kay representative gave me samples of Clear and Gentle Essential Daily Shampoo, Curl Quencher conditioner, Moisture Lock, Volumizing Foam, and Climate Control Gel. All were from the Ouidad line. Her stylist texturizes her curls as well, and she uses this regimen.
Day one hair - I achieved great volume on the first day because I am used to having flat hair after a fresh start. Also, I like that I did not get any crystallization. My other curly gels usually leave a little film to my hair, but nothing that I can not deal with. I do have to admit that my hair was a little flat, but I decided to make it stand up. It was easier to make it stand up without the crystallization effect that I sometimes work around when using my other regimen. Sometimes the "crystallization-prone" gels have a little "stickiness" to them which prevent Day one volume. Please ignore my huge forehead. I will be playing with styling more on Day 2.


Based on the back of my head, my curl definition is about the same as the other products. It is not too heavy nor too oily. I will have to see how day 2 through day 5 goes. I am happy that I got to try it without buying the whole line. It is another expensive curl line, but the six piece combination that I used, I really liked. Reminder: My type 4c hair is texturized/texlaxed.

UPDATE: By the end of Day one my "Ouidad" hair had started to shrink too tightly. I also felt that it was a little dry to the touch. My usual maintenance of Mixed Chicks Leave-in did not want to co-exist as an attempt to moisturize. It just got real sticky on my hair. Needless to say, Day 2 was a fresh wash with my KeraCare Cleansing Cream, Kinky-Curly Knot Today leave-in, and KeraCare Defining Custard.

Product Review: Chi Deep Brilliance Relaxer

The Chi Relaxer definitely maintains the integrity of the hair. Those that are sensitive scalp must base really well, but it is tolerable. There are expiration dates on the container which is a plus. The product consistency is a little more "lotion like" versus cream so careful with application. Overall, I like the relaxer system based on the first try.







Pictured is the "before" picture of client who was eight weeks from last texturizing touch-up.












Pictured is the "after" picture of Chi relaxer touchup. Client has Type 4c hair and the Normal strength Chi relaxer was used to texturize or texlax hair. Finishing products included Kinky-Curly Knot Today Leave-in followed by KeraCare Defining Custard. Hair by Benita Blocker.

August 16,2011 Update: I have used the Chi Deep Brilliance Relaxer about four times now. The hair integrity is good even with the Super strength. However, the Super Strength Chi Deep Brilliance relaxer can be very drying to the hair. I found that the Chi Reconstruct conditioner that is recommended with the relaxer service does not provide enough moisture to the hair. I found the Mizani Moistufuse conditioner which is recommended for the Mizani traditional relaxer system works significantly better. Under normal conditions and normal strength relaxation, the Chi Reconstruct was sufficient. However, I still recommend layering the Mizani Moistufuse in with the Chi Reconstruct under normal relaxation. I also recommend substituting the Mizani Moistufuse in lieu of the Chi Reconstruct. The hair seems to drink the Moistufuse immediately after Super relaxation and shampooing. Please note: Mizani has a "Butter Blend line" and a "Moisturfusion" line. I am NOT referring to these Mizani categories at this time.

A note to the sensitive scalp consumers: The Chi Deep Brilliance relaxer is tolerable with a well-based scalp. "Well-based" scalp means that base is applied with thin partings but keep the base on the scalp not the hair. Cross section your base if you have to but do NOT squeeze too much out at a time. The "bad news" is that the combination of resistant hair and a sensitive scalp may not process long enough to get straight before burning. This relaxer will burn. You feel the burns more from the water hitting the scalp during the rinse than the dry application. So if the client feels burning, but they say it is tolerable, then I recommend taking them to the shampoo bowl and start rinsing anyway.

For some reason the burning does seem tolerable during relaxer application, but the water rinse will tell the real story as to how badly the burn is. The Paul Mitchell relaxer system causes more "false" sensations during the relaxer application, but not too much burning at the bowl. However, my Chi relaxer experience was the completely opposite. I felt less pain at relaxer application; more "pain" at the bowl. Overall, I recommend caution with the Super Strength Chi Relaxer. The tensile strength is fine, but watch for dryness. Prepare to add a lot of "moisture" during the conditioning phase.

A Closer Look at Texturized, Gray Type 4c hair

Gray hair is hair that grows in without natural pigment or melanin in it. Because it is missing pigment, the gray hair is lighter in weight and less manageable. It can be permed (curly permed/soft curled) or relaxed, texlaxed/texturized. Pictured is coarse, gray hair that started off as natural Type 4c hair from a woman with black hair and some gray hair. (Less than 25% gray) It is now texturized or texlaxed. So it went from extremely tightly coiled "z" curls to a "z" ripple!
Type 4c curl patterns do not have to be coarse. Type 4c curl patterns can be fine or medium in texture/strand diameter.
Gray hair does not have to be coarse to still be difficult to manage and hard to color. In order to keep gray hair shiny and "non-yellow," voilet base shampoos or conditioners have to be used as needed. Typically, chemicals and heat can cause gray/white hair to yellow. According to the color wheel, if you add some blue and red (i.e. violet), then it neutralizes the yellow color.

Making Texturized Type 4c hair Wash n' Go!

Hair by Benita Blocker. This is a picture of Type 4c curl pattern that is "texlaxed" or texturized. The "Wash n Go" terminology is typical for Type 3 hair, but it usually means an "afro" for Type 4 hair. On the other hand, texturizing type 4 hair using a mild relaxer or a permanent haircolor reduces the curl pattern and softens the hair. This softening can cause the hair strands to go limp if the curl product is too oily or too heavy. So after a little trial and error, I discovered a "wash n go" regimen that seems to be light, curl defining, and prevents shrinkage (i.e. holds the style). Also, it is simple enough to repeat every morning! Yay!!!!
The regimen: 1) Start off with KeraCare Cleansing Cream. Shampoo with this between 1 and 3 times depending on how "soiled" your hair is. 2) Towel blot; skip deep conditioning because it will make the hair strands too soft. 3)Add Mixed Chicks Leave-in Conditioner. Use moderately. Too much may cause crystallization with the next product. However, you need this leave-in conditioner for volume purposes. 4) Work the KeraCare Defining Custard through the hair. This product consistency is like "egg whites" but not sticky. 5) Style and diffuse or style and air dry.

Voila! Three products and about 15 minutes max!

NOTE: The hair should be cut or shaped to support a wash n go style. Also, texturize the new growth as needed. If you are wetting the hair everyday, you will not need to texturize as often. Also, I tried the KeraCare Natural Textures Leave-in Conditioner. It worked fine, but it has propylene glycol in it. The Mixed Chicks Leave-in conditioner is healthier for the hair because of the glycerin in it. Please see my other articles on propylene glycol and other potential cancer causing ingredients.

Going natural is a great summer experiment!!!! Enjoy!

The Truth about Texturizing: Curl Reduction

Yes! This is a "Slinky" toy. It will represent a Type 3 curl pattern.
Yes! This is an ink pen. Focus on the Spring . . . it represents a Type 4 curl pattern.
Okay. Let's take a closer look at the small spring. Does it look familiar? This is just like Type 4 kinky/curly hair.
I pulled the "Slinky" out to give a realistic look at how big the diameter of a curl can be.
I am elongating/pulling the smaller curl pattern here. This elongation represents "texturizing and reducing the tightness of the curl pattern. As I pull, I am elongating the hair strand, and the hair pattern is going to either become a "ripple" or just straighten out. Please note that this little metal spring had a little resistance to pulling on it and I needed to put my inkpen back together to write with. Despite this technical difficulty, can you see that the smaller the diameter of the curl pattern, then the less beneficial texturizing becomes? If God did not give you a "Spanish wave" then you may have to braid/plait your relaxed hair while wet and let it dry to get a deep wave look!
Now, check out me pulling out the "Slinky." The bigger the diameter of the curl, then texturizing will successfully deliver more defined waves like a "Spanish wave." Can see the difference between the two "curl patterns?" Texturizing makes more sense for people with Type 3 curl patterns that want to tame frizziness and sport more waves than curls.

Bodiphier Relaxer Works!

Trial two: I tried the Bodiphier Relaxer by Fresh Look Products on yesterday.
Absolutely loved it!!!! It softened my curl pattern, but my texture is still in my hair. High humidity still caused some frizzing, but it blow-dried much straighter than I have ever achieved since going natural.

I did not burn. I worked the product for about 30 minutes. I still had waves. It works for those who just want an easier blow-dry for extremely curly hair. The conditioner that was included in the Bodiphier kit was excellent as well. I did not need to cocktail any other conditioners with it.

My hair blow-dried to a healthy shine. My hair felt 10 times better at the end of the Bodiphier process than with the Soft and Beautiful Botanicals Regular Texturizer that I tried about three weeks prior. (The Soft and Beautiful Texturizer was Trial one -- see other blog entry.)

If people want straight hair without reversion, then the Bodiphier is probably NOT the answer, because the Bodiphier is more of a slow acting texturizer with a low pH that is practically impossible to overstraighten. It gives you as much time as you need to massage and manipulate new growth without worrying about existing relaxed hair getting overprocessed.

I plan to add this product as one of my salon services. The Bodiphier kit is about four to eight times expensive than a box relaxer, but the results are like nothing else on the market that I can find so far. No wonder they have been in business for awhile.