Foil Placement: Quality versus Quantity

Hair by Benita Blocker. 2013. 

 Hair by Benita Blocker. 2013

Hair by Benita Blocker. 2013.

This client was ready for highlights. Can you guess how many foiled pieces that I picked up to achieve this highlighted look?

I used the term "foiled pieces" because a few slices were foiled using the sandwich method which is when two foils are used on one slice of hair.  The term "slices" is a parting term for hair by the way.

Okay, time's up!  How many "slices" or "pieces" did I foil up for this look?  Eleven (11)!  Can you believe it?

Foils that are sliced and strategically placed can give the illusion of many highlights.

I only foiled within the top large "horseshoe" area. I used the Wella Blondor Lightener and cellophane foils.

Some people are afraid of bleach, but it's the safest way of lifting "black colored" hair.  The client may be naturally black or artificially black.  Permanent haircolor does not lift permanent haircolor so if you need a significant color "lift, " lightener or color remover usually has to be used first.

I blow dried and styled the client's hair with the traditional stove and marcel iron. I also kept the highlights an inch away from the scalp area because she is a client who gets relaxers about every 8 weeks.

Fiberguard Affirm is the only relaxer system that I trust for double processed hair.  Those with a sensitive scalp may be sensitive to the Fiberguard relaxer system; therefore, I do not recommend double processing anyone with a sensitive scalp or extremely resistant hair.

Three colors safe to use on relaxer day

Resistant Gray or White hair? No problem.  These Sebastian Cellophanes semi-permanent colors (Deep Brunette, Shine Clear, and Golden Brunette) require no mixing.  The "Deep Brunette" delivers "black, darkest brown."  The "Golden Brunette" delivers "caramel."  The "Shine Clear" can be used alone to seal the hair after conditioning or it can be used to dilute the other two colors.

The best deal about the "Deep Brunette" is that all three primary colors are already blended into this color so it makes resistant gray no problem with coverage.  Resistant gray hair should process at least 25 minutes to 30 minutes with a cool down in order to ensure coverage.  This color does has to be shampooed to remove excess from off the scalp followed by another instant conditioner if hair feels like it needs it.

Pictured is the newest Sebastian Cellophanes packaging.

Relaxer Strand Test or Hair color Strand Test

In a separate article, I mentioned how to save hair from major haircuts or possible detangling sessions. I pulled some of the longest strands from my "sandwich bag" of hair. I then taped them down securely to a piece of cellophane. I use pre-cut cellophane "foil" for some of my haircoloring such as lighteners. You can use regular cellophane and this method for haircolor or relaxing or any other testing you want to do on your own hair without it being attached to your head at the time. Smile.

When relaxing, I lightly brushed the strands of hair. Honestly, it is hard to tell if you have the strands right side up or upside down. Upside down means the cuticles are going the outside direction. Actually, as you stretch out the longer pieces of hair to test, some strands can go either way as you tape them down. Hair color will be the best way to test using this "sampling" method. The direction of the cuticle would not matter. Also, smoothing will not be as important either.