Virgin Relaxer Service on HighLift Hair

Hair by Benita Blocker

After three years of maintaining natural hair, this client decided to return to the "relaxed hair world."  I used a virgin application process and the Paul Mitchell relaxer.  I used the Paul Mitchell super strengthener in process treatment during the neutralizing phase for her highlift ends.  I used the Beth Minardi liquid demi-permanent color to tone her color and blend in any gray hair. The Naked Max Foam was used for flat wrap molding. I also used the electric curling irons to curl her hair.

Hair by Benita Blocker

Relaxed hair can be healthy hair.

Relaxer and Roller Set Success in November 2015

Hair by Benita Blocker

(Relaxer and roller set, NO Extensions)

Hair by Benita Blocker

(Relaxer and Roller Set, NO Extensions!)

Both of these clients are on the Paul Mitchell relaxer system.  I now use color alert neutralizing shampoos as a part of the neutralizing process.  As I mentioned in a previous article on this blog, my salon water tested to be more alkaline in pH so I am now allowing the final neutralizing shampoo lather to sit undisturbed for five minutes to make sure the pH of the hair normalizes back closer to its acidic level.

Styling aid for coarser hair:  Nairobi setting lotion with Tropical Roots Jamaican Black Castor Oil spray.
Styling aid for fine hair: Jane Carter Solutions Wrap and Roll foam

Hair by Benita Blocker

(Two weeks post relaxer)

This client in the pink top is relaxed with the VitalePro High Comfort Regular Relaxer.  Her hair is naturally gray. Nairobi Setting Lotion (from concentrate) was used to roller set this client.

Reality Checklist about Hair

Conditioners

Client complaint:  The conditioner dried my hair out. We do not need to use that conditioner again.

My response:  (after checking the client's profile) We have used that conditioner before, and you did not have any complaints.  In addition, it only sat on your hair for 5 to 7 minutes without any heat.  It may have been overhydrating resulting in the curls not holding, but I do not understand how a client can be so concerned about a conditioner's performance but the same client wants to maintain her chemical relaxer touch-up without any hesitation.????

Lesson:  No one should be more scared of a conditioner than a permanent chemical relaxer.

Hair Edges

(New) Client complaint:  I need my edges to stay straight for at least two weeks at a time- so if we need to relax them, then we can.  Then we can use a cosmetic cover-up wand to make the edges look fuller.

My response:  If you feel your edges are thin, then to continue to relax them every three or four weeks is going to continue to make them thinner.

Lesson: Sometimes you have to decide between textured edges or "no edges."  Face the reality of one's hair texture especially if you are over age 40.  Nothing recovers as quickly as we age including your scalp.  If one can afford to make peace with hair extensions and/or hair replacement for a few more decades, then it is all good.

Professional Color Alert Neutralizing Shampoos

Avlon Fiberguard Affirm and Avlon Affirm normalizing shampoos both work well to identify relaxer residue.  VitalePro's Neutralizing Shampoo had a faint pink alert, but no where near the intensity that Avlon's shampoos delivered.

These are the consumer and professional grade neutralizing shampoos that I trust with the Paul Mitchell relaxer service and any other relaxer system that does not have a "color alert" built into their relaxer system.  I have been surprised that despite rinsing along with one Paul Mitchell Shampoo two lather, I still get pink residue upon using a color alert neutralizing shampoo during my Paul Mitchell relaxer services.  The oily base used prior to relaxer application may cause the relaxer to not thoroughly rinse out. This is my theory since oil and water do not mix so a "color alert" shampoo is necessary to erase all doubt.

March 2015 Relaxer Update

As you may remember that Paul Mitchell stopped manufacturing Mild and Super strengths of their relaxer system.  I did not have anyone on the super strength, but I definitely had one client on the mild strength.  The regular strength was just too much for her hair.

Since discontinuing the mild Paul Mitchell especially when most of the Mild strengths that were on the store shelves were expired, I had to try smoothing treatments as well as permanent color to texturize my client's hair for more control.  These alternatives helped, but they had not proven to be a long-term fix so to the "kiddie relaxer" system we went.

I decided on ORS (formerly Organic Root Stimulator brand) Girls version.  It was one strength, and you leave it on as long as you need it to stay on to reach desired straightness. I only needed 10 minutes before rinsing the product out, but it did not cause any damage to the hair despite the permanent color and smoothing treatments already exposed to the hair on previous visits at least two weeks apart.

For ultra coily hair types, the relaxer seems to deliver the most polished look, but not all coily hair is resistant.  Some coily hair is very pliable, and it will chemically straighten very quickly.  Others with the same curl pattern can have resistant curl behavior and a "super" may be an option.

On a separate note, when neutralizing the Paul Mitchell relaxer system, depending on the porosity of the hair and the hair type, I've found that shampooing a couple of times with the Shampoo Two before going to the Lavender Mint Shampoo will strip that extra grease from the base out.  Sometimes I may even finish the shampoo process with a Shampoo one if the hair feels too dry.  I think that each hairstylist will have to adjust the neutralizing shampoo and conditioning steps to custom fit the needs of the client.  I have even on occasions grabbed a neutralizing shampoo from a different brand as a final shampoo. The Nu Expressions 10 in 1 color indicator conditioner helps to let me know if relaxer residue is clinging to the hair as well.

I hope these relaxer tips come in handy. As always, sticking to the manufacturer's instructions is always recommended.  Also, the ORS Girls relaxer has its own neutralizing products included with the kit.  I used the kit as recommended.

Relaxer Residue Lingering Around

Look closer at this picture. Do you see the white relaxer residue on the shampoo nozzle? Be careful when rinsing out your relaxer bowl as well as while rinsing out a relaxer service. Relaxer residue can get caught on the shampoo nozzle. I found that if you try to push the residue off the nozzle with your fingers, that it just slides around in a circle. I literally had to take a paper towel to remove the residue.

Many of the relaxers have been adding more and more oils and butters to their formulas to make it more tolerable to the "sensitive" scalp clientele, but I do not think that the relaxer rinses off in water as well. Remember water and oil don't mix.

Just be more aware and check that your shampoo nozzle stays clear of relaxer residue. If this residue seeps into your client's rinse water; it may cause "creeping oxidation." This is where the relaxer residue may get trapped in the hair past the neutralizing phase. It can cause the hair not to neutralize properly because there is a "foreign object" present.

If you feel any chalkiness or any slickness at any time after rinsing or neutralizing the hair, then check your shampoo nozzle and go for another neutralizing shampoo lather making sure that the lather is White. Although such as small amount of relaxer may not be enough to turn the lather pink enough to see.