Salon hoppers: Words of Wisdom

Recently, I ran into a hairstylist originally from Tennessee. She said that she likes living in the metro Charlotte, NC area, but as far as hair was concerned -- there are a lot of "salon hoppers." I had to laugh because she is right. People just hop, hop, hop from one chair to the next. It is frustrating to many hairstylists. Many single, professional hairstylists who want to enjoy some of the finer things in life have moved on to larger cities where there is more of a "social butterfly" demand plus more disposable income.

The seasoned salon owners know that our beauty industry has been in a decline for a solid five years or more. Smart salon owners with a large overhead sold their salons about three to five years ago nationwide.

Hair is a practice just like a doctor, attorney, and dentist. A client can go to a celebrity hairstylist and pay $500 for a relaxer service, but if the stylist does not perform relaxer services on a regular basis then the client may find that she could have gone to the "hood" and got the same look for $50.

This does not mean that the celebrity stylist is not good. It just means that stylist and the client were not a good match. Just like all doctors are not a good match. Lawyers are not all a good match. You get the picture.

Also, on a separate note, loyalty is important. Oprah has stuck with the same hairstylist through thick and thin. We all have seen Oprah's hair go through some highs and lows. Michelle Obama is sticking with her hairstylist as well and you know even she has had some high and lows as far as hair.

Clients looking solely for great "style"-they need to find someone who has the same style that they are looking for and the same hair texture and go to that hairstylist for that particular style.

Otherwise, if a client is looking for a hairstylist that cares about her individual hair texture, and the stylist goes to continuing education classes voluntarily to constantly improve their practice, then that is when you find a hair stylist that is a partner.

I have never met a perfect hairstylist. Those who are too closed minded to learn from others are the scariest hairstylists to me.

Also, as a seasoned stylist, I have learned if you talk negative about another hairstylist then you cast doubt on the whole hair profession. We all have the same state issued hair license. When I hear bad things about a hair stylist, I can usually figure out what happened without talking to the stylist. If the stylist is overworked or hungry, then they/we may make a mistake. They/we are human.

If you do not want a sleepy doctor performing surgery on you, then you do not want to be the last person of a 15 hour work day if you need a hair chemical. Mistakes will happen. Stylists must learn to schedule breaks even if it means charging more and booking less clients. I could go on and on about the hair industry, but the real salon scoop is to get to know the hairstylist beliefs, respect her pricing, understand loyalty, and give feedback. See if you can work with the stylist. Most of my clients have their own practice or business - they know that I work to find solutions and all I Do is hair and write about hair.

Finding the right hairstylist can be as simple as going to a "safe" "hole in the wall" establishment.

I have included a quick chart comparing hairdressers to doctors and attorneys. We all are regulated by a state Board. We all are in a practice where practice make perfect. We all can concentrate on a specialty such as colorist and haircuts.

Where hairdressers differ from doctors is that we typically do not accept insurance and there is no co-pay. It is totally out of pocket. Also, many clients expect hairdressers to "nail" it on the first visit; where doctors just keep you coming back for a new prescriptions until they find something that works.

Where hairdressers differ from attorneys/lawyers is that we typically do not clear a six figure salary. We can not raise pricing without losing some clientele.

Most medical and dental procedures have had multiple price increases. Hair service pricing in general have stayed the same for the last 20 years. Yet, beauty supplies have gone up. Gasoline has gone up. Housing and transportation has gone up.

For hairstylists, the passion keeps them in business. I just noticed another local salon/spa was running a flier promoting everything from "weight loss" plans to facials to "waxing" to "botox" to "massage" to "laser hair removal." "Haircuts" were the least mentioned service. No color service nor nail services were mentioned at all. I was totally blown away. This particular salon was known as a full service salon/spa/boutique. It now seems to be steering toward more "beauty and wellness." Probably a good idea. "Styling" can be so visually "subjective." Facials and massages are a "feel good" or not opinion.

Also, on a separate note, a few years ago, the Ratner company sold all of the hair salons in SC and NC to the Regis Corporation. Remember the "Hair Cuttery" turned into "Famous Hair?" Also, Salon Cielo also sold their NC and SC hair salons to Regis Corporation.

Between salon hoppers and the "family focused" lifestyle of the South, the hair industry in the South will continue to be lower paying than the more metropolitan areas of the United States of America.

Hair Stylist Highlight: Stacey Smith

Publication: Working Mother magazine dated February|March 2009. Cover Story: Anucha Browne Sanders and hair stylist credits go to Stacey Smith.

When I googled "Stacey Smith" and "hair" - I could not narrow down a name match. So will the real Stacey Smith come forward? Smile. I loved your work in the cover photo of this publication. It is going into 2012, and I still have this publication.

I have to admit: The publication was sitting in the sun on a magazine rack in my salon. So the picture is faded, but the hair is not! That is just how exceptional this hair really is! I can tell just from the picture!

I am showcasing both the glam and the business look that was featured in this publication. I remember calling the publication a few years ago asking for your contact information, but they did not have it.

Hopefully, I will hear from you! Great work!

Nappy Love Seems to be Conditional

"You is kind. You is beautiful. You is important." This phrase was repeated over and over in the movie "The Help." No matter what your race; No matter what your hair type is; No matter how much you weigh. "You are kind. You are beautiful. You are important!"

When schools were integrated, some Whites began teaching "self-hatred" versus "Black Pride." Blacks are still hating on each other. I witnessed a "sistah" describing another "sistah" as looking like a "wooly mammoth." This comment although it was not directed at me, it ripped me to the core. Where is our Black pride? Why do little black girls think a blonde wig is "good hair?" God created all hair types, and God made no mistakes.

As an intelligent, college educated, self-employed Black woman whose hair in its natural state is probably a "wooly mammoth" would never want to trade places with anyone else. My IQ and beauty has never been defined by what is "socially acceptable." If I need to change my image to fit into society, then that is a choice that I make to play the game of politics. Young ladies must find their inner beauty before they can change their outer beauty. Outer beauty will get you in the corporate door. Your intellect will always keep you above your counterparts. Earn your college education from colleges that are held as prestigious; you will need paperwork to back your intellect. Always dream of your destination, and then plan to get there. Sometimes there is no room to bring "all your friends" along . . . just get there, then you can send for them later. My message is about self-esteem. It must be maintained at all times. As far as finding a hairstylist for those special days, look for a hairstylist that has hair texture that is at least as tight as yours. You will not be able to tell by looking at their hair. You have to ask questions about their relaxer frequency and natural curl pattern. I have to laugh at this point because men rule the beauty industry, and they do not have to grow their own hair. I personally no longer allow any stylist to touch my hair that does not have hair like mine. I have been the most pleased with my hair since I stopped allowing other stylists to do it. I still have not met another stylist in this business who has hair like mine and who has a kind heart. I attended the Bronner Brothers hair show this past weekend, and I did not see a single stylist from my area. This was sad. I have always tried to remain leading edge within reason. I wish there were more stylists that felt the same way in my area.

On a separate note, pictured is two different mannequins. One mannequin has silkier hair than the other. I recently bought the more textured hair mannequin because it was on my wish list. The salesperson said that I can relax it, but I have no intentions of doing so.

In addition, while I was at the hair show, I noticed many stylists. Some had photo shoot ready hair. Others, simply had an afro or colored locs. If I dive deeper into my observation, I will say that hairstylists fall into only two categories: 1)Low maintenance hair (i.e. men and women that don't have a sensitive scalp) or 2) High Maintenance hair (i.e. women with a sensitive scalp.)

I have grown out many women's hair to "bra strap length" (BSL) with Type 4 curl patterns, but they were not sensitive scalp as far as relaxers. There is still a gap in the industry. I asked Johnny Wright about Soft Sheen Carson's new relaxer and scalp sensitivity. I felt that he gave me a generic answer of "Yes, it has been tested on sensitive scalp, and there is less discomfort." Of course, he seemed to be on the defense. I really felt that he gave me a "blow-off" answer. The company gave us a sample pack of the relaxer system. I will try it out eventually and form my own opinion.

I am really about advancing the beauty of women regardless of race. I am also about increasing self-esteem. I covered a lot in this article. Hopefully, some of it is food for thought! Make today productive!

Tracking: Keeping Hair Styling Records

First of all, these are my real fingernails! The Viviscal pills have multiple benefits! LOL! Please see my separate article on Viviscal.

Pictured is the start of my hair log from October 19, 1998 to present day. I literally know about 13 years of history on my hair. I started tracking in October 1998 after having so many horrible hair salon experiences. I have been to Manhattan New York to Brooklyn, NY to White Plains, NY to North Carolina to South Carolina and still could not find a good fit for a hairdresser. Does this story sound familiar?

So keep track of stylist name, date of service, actual services provided, and any chemicals used. The only purpose it will serve is a sanity check and some tracking of changes you find.

Please understand that I do not recommend salon hopping. You lose liability of who did what. All hairstylists have the same licensing respective to the state that the license was issued. Hairstylists are like doctors. Their practice is their practice. Doctors sometimes have different approaches to helping to heal. Within three months or about six visits, your hair should be more solid even if you are trimming bad ends off regularly.

Professional hairstylists learn to respect another hairstylist's practice because the variables surrounding a hair service are only witnessed during the time of service. Over the years, I have learned to turn down clients and send them back to their stylist because expecting perfection in one visit sometimes is a tall order especially when it comes to chemicals.

If a hairstylist is more concerned with the health of the hair, they may require a treatment service before performing a multi-dimensional color service. Yes, it will cost you two visits to get the color service and then you still may need a third service to lift your haircolor to an additional dimension. So if you have dark hair and want to go blonde, one visit usually is not the healthiest way of doing it.

When it comes to relaxers, it may take a few tries to find a good fit unless you are relocating from another city and want to continue with your same regimen and same product brands that were working for you from whence you came.

Also, I have found that over the last few years, I look for hairstylists with my same hair type (Type 4). To my surprise, I have found that most hairdressers have type 3 hair so their hair is lower maintenance than mine. I usually rule out male hairdressers because they usually keep a low maintenance haircut.

These are my preferences based on my experiences. Many have given up on hairdressers . . . I am a hairstylist, and I have sometimes felt the same sentiment. However, I am determined to educate myself and share my findings so that others do not have to repeat the same mistakes. I am committed to the advancement of the hair industry globally.

I have to remind myself regularly that "the only thing constant" is change. Stay flexible but grounded . . .

Define Good Hair?

First of all, there is no such thing as "bad hair." Our Creator knew what He was doing when He created us.

Now, for people born with "low maintenance hair." You are blessed.

Low maintenance hair is hair that can be washed and air-dried or diffused. No wrapping at night. No rolling at night. No flat ironing. Just finger and go.

Low maintenance hair can have the flexibility of being worn straight which makes it high maintenance for that time period.

Now, for those who do not prefer to wear their curl pattern or if you don't have a curl pattern at all, our hair (me included) is high maintenance all the time.

High maintenance hair is sensitive to chemicals, heat, weather and stress. Finding a hairstylist is extremely hard. Most of the hairstylists with absolutely gorgeous hair are born with "low maintenance" hair.

Just because their hair looks gorgeous does not mean that they know how to maintain your higher maintenance hair.

If you are interviewing a hairstylist, ask about their maintenance for their hair. How often do they need a chemical touch-up? is a great question. If they are at 8 to 10 weeks, and you know you have an afro pushing 5 weeks, then you also know that your hair is not in the ballpark with their hair. I would keep looking for the next hairstylist in that case.

Now, suppose the hairstylist's hair looks a "hot mess?" Interview them anyway. Why? I always find it hard to work long hours and maintain a cute style with high maintenance hair. You either are going to pay "top dollar" to offset the fact that the stylist needs to keep her hair done . . . or you are going to let her work speak for itself.

As far as male hairstylists go, I do not understand how men keep their hair barbered short and female clients are drawn to them for service. Female hairstylists can not even get a break. Their hair has to look flawless all the time.

Good hair means low maintenance hair. Bad hair is good hair. It takes more time, but when you find the right stylist -- life is good! Keep interviewing until you find her!