Hot tools: Switching Technologies and the Danger

Of course, a roller set service is the best option for curl and body in the hair. However, if you have to use heat at home, then the older model hot tools with ceramic plates and adjustable temperature dial are the best choice! I have been really leading the push toward discontinuing the use of "ionic" (infrared heated) tools. Repeatedly, the ionic tools such as the FHI Heat Runway iron deliver great shine and long lasting curls with the flip of your wrist, but after two or three usages, the hair seems to become more resistant to holding curls no matter what your hair texture. By the second day, the hair is flat and limp. I believe that the infrared heat which heats from the inside out actually is permanently "cooking" the internal structure of the hair. The damage can not be seen immediately, but with continued use, within a year to three years depending on your hair texture, it may break all of a sudden. Also, without extra protein support, hair will break sooner than later. However, the extra protein support plus dry, hot weather can cause breakage without the use of a hot tool. Using the ionic flat irons leads toward a "no-win" situation. So you have bought the most expensive ionic flat irons plus your flat iron serums, and you have been flat-ironing for months because the flat iron manufacturers told us that the "ionic flat irons smooth the hair better and help retain moisture." So have you seen all the frizz and flyways that people are experiencing? Then they are sold on the $250 "Keratin Treatments" to calm down the frizz? However, a 450 degree ionic flat iron is used to infuse or "cook" the solution on to the hair. Then hair breakage caused by "whatever causes" forces all races to look at hair extensions as a way to look glamourous. Then removal of the hair extensions could potentially cause even more damage. Okay. It is time to stop the madness. The tools that have been around for generations before all of the "new technology" did not cause so much damage. Did it? It is time to go back to what was working. Historically, we all have to cycle back when it comes to trends, shoes, clothes, style, and now hair.
Okay. Now that I may have your attention, I have to also warn you. The old school tools heat the hair from the outside in. This is called direct heat. The ionic tools heat from the inside out. This is called infrared heat. So their technologies are completely opposite. You probably are thinking exactly where I am going with this statement. Switching the technology may cause the hair to become more vulnerable to breakage because the hair strands would have experienced heat application from both directions. So if you can avoid heat for about six months to a year by just roller setting or just trying more textured looks without the heat until the hair that has been possibly damaged by the infrared heat is trimmed off. Pictured are some more old school hot tools with adjustable temperatures. These are more home friendly than a "stove and marcel iron." Almost forgot what these tools looked like? Applying heat on soiled hair is never a good thing. Limiting hot tool usage is a must toward maintaining length. This article is "food for thought." I have seen enough consistent results in all hair types and in all age ranges to without a doubt say that I personally refuse to use another "ionic" flat iron on my own hair, and I was a "flat iron queen." I had all sizes, varieties, and brands from Paul Mitchell to Chi to FHI Heat to Croc. Over$1500 in tools only to go in storage . . . better late than never. Please encourage your hair stylist to read this article; clients do not need to be salon hopping between hair stylists using the ionic flat irons and the stove/marcel irons without understanding the potential challenges associated with the switching. If the hair is destined to break from the prolonged ionic flat iron usage; then that destiny may not be avoided even with switching back to the old technology. You may go backwards before you go forward. Prepare for long-term results and some short-term challenges. Hair grows a half inch a month on average. A biotin supplement can give hair growth an added boost. Please see separate article on biotin. Hopefully, the beauty industry as a whole can get back on track with long-term healthy hair versus short-term style.

Hair tools: Direct heat versus Infrared Heat

Hot hair tools have been around for over a hundred years! Direct heat is the oldest technology. If you have to wait for a good 10 minutes for the tool or appliance to heat up, then it is direct heat. If the tool heats up in 15 seconds or less, then it typically using infrared heat. So your old curling irons, old flat irons, and hot rollers that you had to turn on early to get them hot enough to use are also direct heat. Pictured are two 2 inch irons. One cost $40 retail and the other costs $200 retail. The $40 marcel flat iron must be heated up in or on a heat source. The use of it becomes direct heat. The $200 Chi Turbo flat iron pictured heats up within 15 seconds of plugging up and turning it on.

When to use the infrared heat versus the direct heat? If you are going for bone straight hair without any bend nor curls, then infrared heat from the flat iron works great for styling purposes. Thermal protectant is vital to maintain the health of the hair. However, if you want any type of body or curl without having to use heat everyday to touch it up, then direct heat from even the traditional curling iron seems to hold for days without reapplying heat. The direct heat seems to give more body. Re-emphasizing that direct heat method has been effective for styling and allowing the hair to grow for over a hundred years WITHOUT "thermal protectants." The only things needed for decades were 1) styling spray for maximum hold and 2)shine spray. And yes, pressing oils were needed for pressing comb applications. No rocket science here . . . and we had plenty of "growing hair!" Madame C.J. Walker was living proof that we did not have to have infrared heat to have long hair. We just need "higher end" hair care products and conservative application of heat for styling.

Please remember that hair should be as clean as possible when using any type of hot tool. Also, hair growth is normally a half inch a month, but we have to prevent the strands from breaking in order to see that the hair gets maximum length.

On a side note, Black salons are losing the black haircare business . . . I do not think that it is coincidence that switching from the traditional stove and marcel styling into exclusive flat iron usage just happened around the same time. The traditional methods of marcel irons and pressing combs defined "Black hair."