Sebastian Cellophanes Color Reformulation

Yes, Sebastian changed their Cellophones color names as well as their ingredients, and guess what?  The new stuff NO longer performs on resistant gray hair.  My only guess is because they removed the wheat protein from the ingredients list.

The Expresso Brown version of the Sebastian Cellophanes seems to be the same color as the Deep Brunette, and the consistency of the product seemed about the same.  The actual deposit of color on gray hair on the same day as relaxer services is a HUGE difference.

I am really looking for another brand of same day  as relaxers semi-permanent color because literally, I had one of my clients ask me did I switch color lines.  Sadly and honestly, I revealed to her that Sebastian had reformulated their color line and apparently it does not deliver the same gray coverage that the old formula  (Deep Brunette) did.

What a dissappointment!  25 minutes processing and no adequate coverage.  Situations like this complicates my business.  Sebastian has officially lost a customer (me).

Best Detangling Shampoo for Overprocessed Hair

Every so often I get a client to come in where my high-end Pureology shampoos just does nothing for the hair. This is when I pull the Keracare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo - Classic out. It is my last resort, and it always saves the day!

Most of the time, the client would have tried everything at home to get the hair under control, but it just becomes a tangled mess when wet. So they then make a call to a professional.

The typical history of the hair that falls into this category is hair that has been colored or highlighted one too many times or bi-racial hair that is too fine to be relaxed, yet, it has a natural frizziness to it.

The KeraCare Hydrating Detangling shampoo - Classic does contain sulfates, but it has been the "go to" shampoo for probably a decade when all else fails. I started studying the ingredients because I was amazed that this shampoo could deliver the control over the hair that seems to be unmatched. I discovered that this shampoo has a hydrolzed wheat protein. I had an "aw haw" moment. This shampoo is a protein based shampoo. It coats and fills the desensitized hair shaft causing it to detangle. Amazing.

I have another protein based shampoo by AG that I may use on the next customer that comes in with past due, challenged hair to see if it is the protein that indeed makes a difference, but I am going to keep my KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo - classic available in case all else fails!

NOTE: The KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo does come in a sulfate-free formula in which Avlon discontinued their original formula. However, many professionals enjoyed the results of the original formula so Avlon brought the original formula back as the "classic" line.

Proteins and Protein Treatments

I was selected as an Educator for the 2010 Mid-Winter Bronner Bros Hair Show. One of the questions that came up was about proteins.

There are vegetable protein, animal protein, hair/keratin protein, and wheat protein.

The animal protein treatments usually have an odor, but they typically work on ethnic hair quite well. Dudley's DRC-28 was classic for revitalizing hair; however, something changed with their product in 2009, and it stopped working for me. Their customer service was on the defense and would not listen. Another stylist in the Atlanta class witnessed the same thing-- poor customer service. But back to the topic at hand, animal protein treatment usually requires heat. Some are messy which means it is more time consuming.

Vegetable protein does not seem to absorb in to ethnic hair very well.

Keratin protein such as the JOICO K-Pak does not absorb into the ethnic hair as well either.

Now, the wheat protein is awesome for ALL HAIR TYPES! The Redken Extreme CAT Treatment works wonders immediately, and it does NOT smell. It works quickly without any heat. It still should be followed with a moisturizing conditioner.

In fact, all "pure protein" treatments should be followed by a moisturizing conditioner to soften the "strengh" that you add to the hair shaft. Good moisturizing conditioners include Mizani Moistufuse conditioner or Graham Webb's Back to Basics Coconut Mango.

Protein treatments should be received a week or two prior to the relaxer touch-up service to ensure the integrity of the hair. Pure protein treatments should not be used on the day of the relaxer because the cuticle is too vulnerable to open wide from the elevated pH state. Pure protein in that instable state will overpower the hair shaft and may cause more problems in weeks to come.

Protein treatment services every other month will ensure phenomenal long hair by repairing and polishing cuticle damage.

I also have discussion topics on Facebook. Search on Applebaum Hair and become a fan!