Hair Extensions: Creating Texture in Straight Strands

These strand extensions were behaving very stringy looking.

I decided to curly perm these.  Pictured is the stiff behavior of the hair extensions before the perm solution.  The extension hair did not want to stay curled on the rod.

I used the Quantum Acid Extra Body perm solution to force the texture in the strands.

This Zotos Quantum perm was about 3 years old, and it left the strands hydrated.  The odor of the chemical lingered in the salon a lot longer than I was hoping for, but overall, I would trust this brand to use it again.

The mauve rod delivered a looser wave than the white rods.

My client preferred more texture so we decided to go with the curl delivered from the white perm rods.

I had five more strand bundles to complete.  I slide this one right off the rod without fingering through it.

The white perm rods deliver the perfect texture in that straight hair, and it does not tangle.

The strands dry with a lot of texture in them.

I used the Opti curl acid wave extra body perm on the remainder of the hair extensions.

The Opti-curl does not have a lingering odor, but the hair extensions definitely seemed drier.  I would not recommend this perm on real hair, but it worked fine for the extension hair.

For the strand hair extensions that were placed in my clients' relaxed hair, I had to use a Sunglitz plastic highlighting cap to form a barrier to pull the hair extensions through while protecting the already relaxed hair  from the incompatible curly perm.  I did tease/backcomb her hair out of the strands before pulling the extensions through.

I used color applicator bottles filled with water to dip the spiral placed rods to begin diluting the perm solution after the processing time expired.  A Neutralizing bib was necessary as well. 

The service was very successful.  We had to add more textured strands, and we wet set the newly textured extensions that were already attached.  Overall, the texture was still slightly silky, but the curl behavior was much more friendly to staying curled and blended.

I will take a picture on her next wet set visit.  I had to hot curl the new strands added, but the existing strands were roller set.  Overall, we really were both happy with the improved blending.

8 Weeks Later . . .  A Roller set using the Lottabody Wrap Me Foaming Mousse.

The Soft Curl Look: Wave by Design

Another "very, Very, very" happy customer who had been accustomed to the Wave Nouveau system, but she was willing to try the Wave by Design System with me.  She loved it!  I did a few things different from my "body wave" client that I highlighted on my blog from a few months back.

1) I used the Design Essentials Restore to pre-protect her hair prior to performing the re-arranger step.
2) I used the "gray" perm rods.
3) I used a neutralizing bib in addition to cotton around the hairline to apply the neutralizing solution while she sat upright the entire time.
4) I re-used the neutralizing run-off from the neutralizing bib to reapply to the hair after removing the rods.  Then rinsing again.
5) I used a semi-permanent black haircolor for about 15 to 20 minutes at room temperature at the very end of the service.

I only trimmed about a good half inch off in order to keep her in a short style.

I have noticed that some people are inquiring if "phase 2" be skipped during the soft curl process assuming that they want the "straight hair" look versus "curly hair."  So my suggestion for those people who want the straight look, do NOT skip phase 2 of the wave nouveau or wave by design systems, but instead, use super size perm rods in lieu of the smaller perm rods.  Please see my separate blog article on "super size" perm rods.  The jumbo perm rods will give you a brazilian wave which is going to enhance the body in the hair, but still leave you with an overall "straight" look.  Skipping the phase 2 step entirely will probably leave your hair looking "stick straight." I highly doubt if anyone will be excited about that.

Surprisingly, with this client, I do not think that I would do anything different in the future except purchase an end paper dispenser tool to speed up the rodding time.

Her final maintenance was heavy moisturizing with the "Mist and Shine" spray, then Lotion sections at a time as I scrunch the hair with my hands.  Styling was simple!