Protein shampoos: Reconstructive Overkill?

Believe it or not, some shampoos can serve as protein reconstructors in place of conditioning treatments.  This AG shampoo has a pH  of 4.5 to 5.5 which is a normal pH for hair and skin.  The hair seems to be able to absorb protein no matter if it is supplied through the shampoo or the conditioner.  It seems odd but even after rinsing shampoo or conditioner out of the hair; the hair absorbs what it is craving.

Careful, if your hair is compromised due to heat damage or mechanical damage it may absorb too much protein too quickly and you may need to soften it with a conditioner that has no protein.  Some moisturizing conditioners still have low levels of protein.  Bee Mine Products has a conditioner specifically designed without protein.

As far as other protein enriched shampoos, be careful of  "Cleansing Creams" for curly, natural hair.  KeraCare Cleansing Cream can be protein overkill for relaxed hair.  Although, it is a sulfate-free product, it still is better for chemical free hair.  Even KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo - Classic has some protein in it but less than the Cleansing Cream.  Relaxed hair seems to remain strong and detangled with the use of the KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo.  Typically, clients who keep their hair 70% to 85% relaxed will find that the KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo is sufficient for their overall hair needs.

So if you are short on time but need a reconstructor, consider adding a protein enriched shampoo to your shampooing step followed by a pure moisture conditioner.  Please see the article on the Ultra Sheen Protein shampoo that was advertised in the 1970's on this blog as well.

Can you overcondition hair?

Yes, you can. If your hair is too soft, then it will not hold a curl. So finer hair may need a conditioning shampoo and then skip the conditioning step all together. The shampoo should leave it detangled enough.

Also, we all know that too much protein will dry out the hair and make it prone to break.

Pictured is NuExpressions Humective moisturizing conditioner. It does a great job with coating the hair for thermal styling, but it seems to have a drying effect if left on for too long. After 20 minutes, it really needs to be rinsed out. Many conditioners that have protein boosts in them really do need less dryer time. It is best to follow the manufacturer's instructions on the jar.