Affirm Fiberguard Normalizing Shampoo Changed

 The container is the same, but when I began using a new bottle of Affirm Fiberguard Normalizing Shampoo, I noticed a 2013 ingredient label covering the old ingredient list which was established since 2005.  This "adding on an updated sticker" practice has been seen before with Design Essentials products.  This "label cover-up" practice saves the company money by not trashing the old containers just because of labelling, and it gives those progressive hairstylists such as myself a "flag" to check out what's new with the product.

Well, I compared the two ingredient lists and found that Sodium Laureth Sulfate is now the second ingredient in the list.  The previous version had Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate as the second ingredient.  Also, Hydrolyzed Keratin seems to have replaced Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein.

It's interesting that the ingredients changed so much, but the pH still remained a 5.5.  So they must have balanced the ingredients to ensure proper relaxer neutralization.

Overall, I think that this new formula works great.  So change is good sometimes.  I will keep you posted if my opinion changes.

Design Essentials Buzz - The Good, The Bad, and the Ugly!

The Good news: McBride Research, owners of Design Essentials brand is trying to stay competitive with the market. They now have a Professional Smoothing Treatment without the formaldehyde worries. They also announced an additional foam and setting lotion designed for the naturally kinky hairstyling trend.

The Bad news: The latest reformulation of their regular strength relaxer with Shea Butter is causing some shedding issues. (Please see separate articles on Design Essentials shea butter relaxer review) I personally had to switch all of my clients that were on this new relaxer into the new Affirm mild strength relaxer. Everyone is doing much better with the new Affirm relaxer. I even had another client to come to me who had been receiving the new Design Essential shea Butter relaxer service by another hairstylist. She felt her hair was losing thickness. I told her that the problem was probably with the relaxer not the hairstylist. Again, I used the Affirm Mild relaxer, and the results were healthy and shiny.

Now, for the Ugly: Pictured is the old formula of the Design Essentials Styling Spritz. It is darker in color than the newer hypoallergenic fragrance version.

According to the feedback on the grapevine, the new version of the Design Essentials Formations styling spritz is not working the same way. Yet, the company is saying it is the same "stuff" despite the fact that the ingredients list is not the same. Pictured is the old ingredient list from the old formula/bottle. (On a side note, I have some of this old formula to sell brand new if anyone wants to get their hands on it!)

Again, another example where the manufacturer is switching up formulas on us and "messing up" our money. We as hairstylists are on the front line dealing with our clientele. These company failures are at our expense initially, and we as hairstylists have no control. Product prices are going up and the economy is steadily challenging our ability to raise service prices. In the end, we all lose sometimes before we gain . . .

Design Essentials fail to properly label their relaxer tubs

Back in October 2011 timeframe, I introduced the new and improved Design Essentials regular relaxer with shea butter and olive oil. Take a good look at the old packaging on the left and the new packaging on the right.

Recently, I purchased another full container of Design Essentials regular relaxer. I was floored. "No they didn't" just sell me a tub with old labeling and put a sticker with "New and Improved" on it? So let us check the ingredients.

As you can see, there is no Olive or Shea butter listed in the ingredients list. So Design Essentials used old packaging to put their new relaxer formula, but they did not bother to update the ingredients' portion.

Pictured is what the ingredients' label should be. This picture was taken of the tub with the new labeling. The ingredients may look a little blurry, but you can see "Olive Fruit" oil and Shea Butter listed. Design Essentials is a ethnic line sold nationally across the United States and probably abroad. Failure to update the ingredients label with an updated sticker to match the "new and improved" sticker is just outright unprofessional in my opinion. In addition, this relaxer has caused some shedding issues with a few Type 4 curl pattern clients. Type 3 curl patterns grow out and away from the scalp and seem to do well with this relaxer. So I am debating on discontinuing all Design Essentials relaxers for Type 4 curl patterns. I have been using the Design Essentials Stimulations conditioner to correct any shedding issues about a week or two after the relaxer touch-ups for the type 4 curl patterns. This issue has me concerned because the relaxer is quite tolerable (i.e. no burning.) However, no one wants any scalp damage. Type 4 new growth is very much concentrated and coiled at the scalp. With Design Essentials trying to "save money" on packaging, it makes you wonder how are the relaxer sales going with such a push for African American women to wear their natural hair?

KeraCare products keep changing ingredients!

KeraCare product line changed the formula of some of its shampoos a few years ago to make them sulfate-free. Many of the hairstylists began complaining about the new formula, so KeraCare re-entered the old formula back onto the market as the "classic" formula. Now, I realized that the original "sulfate-free" 1st Lather shampoo has changed ingredients since it was first introduced into the market. The pH is also different. Some bottles of the sulfate-free First Lather shampoos have a "6.5" pH and some bottles have a "4.5" pH.

I wonder what are the rules of changing the ingredients of products, but they still market the products as the same product?

For instance, I did an article on how Nexxus Humectress changed their ingredients over the years. Recently, I also noticed that Paul Mitchell Sculpting Foam eliminated an ingredient Lawsonia Inermis(Henna) Extract as well as changed their dispenser top for this foam.

I suppose the manufacturers do not want to pay extra money to re-package or to bring alert to minor ingredient changes, but major ingredient changes should be marked on the packaging as a courtesy to the hairstylists in case the ingredient change affect the results in their client's hair. At least, they will not have to be surprised.

Physicians don't expect their prescription drugs to change in midstream. Why should cosmetologists have the "switch-a-roo" done to them?