Tips for Healthy, Shiny, Stylish (Dread) Locks

From the Desk of Loctician/Cosmetologist Benita Blocker:

1) If you want maximum styling options, then the locks need to be retightened at a 90 degree angle from the scalp.  This can be done by completing a half or full interlocking rotation at the end of  any non-interlocking technique.  Otherwise, the lock should be held straight out from the scalp when tightening the new growth. 

2) All twisting should be completed in a clockwise pattern.  Keep your clockwise rotation consistent.  This will help with lock uniformity.

3) Determine your natural curl behavior.  If you pull your natural hair out, does it spring back like a "slinky" toy? or does it stay extended and gradually shrinks back up?  Does your hair ever coil back onto itself or does it just wave out?

If you have "slinky" behavior, the comb twist with a fine tooth barbering comb is my best recommendation to grab and keep all of your coily hair pulled into the lock.  This should prevent the locks from thinning out as well as keeping them uniform.

If you have less coily hair that grows away from the scalp, then palm rolling or some form of interlocking would be better.  The comb twisting may make your hair harder to lock so I do not recommend  comb twists for retightening.  

4) All hairtypes can start locks with comb twisting to get scalp partings as desired.  Interlocking may need to be combined with the comb twisting to get "hard to lock" hair to hold.

Questions about interlocking and interlocking tools?  Some hints and suggestions are included in articles within my blog, but you can also research other sites as well for making your own tools or purchasing speciality tools.

5)  99% pure aloe vera gel can be found at Trader Joes.  It has healing and moisturizing properties.  It will probably save you money from the stockpiling of all the natural hair gels on the market now.  Make sure that you are not allergic to aloe vera.  The Jamaican Mango and Lime Locking Gel also has been highly recommended.

6) If a lock breaks off, then save it to be mended.  If the broken piece is a small tip, then trash it.

7) If your locks look dry, then your scalp may not naturally produce enough oil to keep the locks moist.  Everyone's oil production is different.  If your locks need help with moisture, joboba oil or Jamaican Mango and Lime Island oil have received great recommendations.

8) Everyone's hair texture is unique to them, you have to find what works best for you.  If your locks are not forming the way you want, then consider switching locticians.  You will need to allow at least 4 months to see if a new locking routine is working.  You will judge by the new growth area up to start of the existing lock after the locking change.

9) Remind the loctician that you do not want locks doubled up in order to maintain your original grid.  If the loctician encounters a lot of locks that need doubling, then either the locks are not staying hydrated enough or the locking method is not working for your hair type.  Partner with the loctician to figure out what can be done.  If the loctician does not have any suggestions and does not offer to research into some suggestions for you, then you need to move on to another loctician.

10) Lock grooming and lock tightening are two separate services.  Some minor lock grooming can be done at lock tightening time, but if you let your locks get seriously past due, then a lock grooming session may need to be scheduled separately from your tightening service.  Lock correction is a separate specialty service as well.  A long term plan needs to be set in place and the loctician needs to be on the same page with you.

I hope this information has been helpful!

Almost 10 months: Sisterlocks and Wig Refresh!

 Since I have not resolved my complaint with my original Sisterlocks consultant, I refuse to have anyone to work on my hair unless they are listed as active with Sisterlocks headquarters.  So since I am a registered Sisterlocks trainee and my "super sized" Sisterlocks in the back of my head are big enough to start finger twisting, that is what I did.  As stated in one of my recent articles, I used the 99% pure aloe vera gel for twisting, moisturizing, and healing.  I also distributed jojoba oil through out.  I am going to continue to let my Sisterlocks in the front free form.  The more texture that I have in the front, the better my stocking cap wig stays on.

Speaking of my custom made unit, I washed it and repaired it again.  The quality of hair that I used is holding up.  I am sooooooo pleased.  This unit helps me with my corporate image until my locks get longer.

Hair by Benita Blocker, May 2013 Fresh wash and curl!

I have been really studying my curl behavior.  It spring rolls like a "slinky" toy.  Have you ever tried to undo a "slinky?"  It is hard to re-train a slinky to do anything but what it does.  So I really do not think a "crochet hook-like" tool is going to be able to pull my "slinky curls" into my locks properly for retightening.  I firmly believe that the fine tooth barbering combs are the best tool for my hair type.

My hair type will benefit from comb twisting to grab all of my hair and get it secured.  Those who have less springy hair that grows away from the scalp will do fine with interlocking methods such as Sisterlocks or even palm rolling.  I do not feel that my hair would benefit from palm rolling because palm rolling does not grab my "spring rolled and parked" curls that are hovering at my scalp.

I have identified a loctician who may be able to comb twist my locks in the future.  I have no idea what to do about the front locks yet.  I can massage and finger twist the back locks myself because they are larger, at least, until I resolve my Sisterlocks complaint. I hope to have the issue resolved within the next 45 days.

I want to keep as small of locks as possible using the comb twist method. I may still interlock my hair in combination with the comb twist if I find that I need a little extra hold.

Resistant hair: No Match for Relaxers plus Length

 So everyone is familiar with the different hair types being Type 1 through Type 4 with subcategories of a, b, and c.  Now, let's take the discussion one step farther . . .  Resistant versus Non-resistant.  Someone with a Type 4c curl pattern may have a finer and less resistant behavior than another individual with a Type 4c curl pattern who has a coarser, more resistant behavior.  So both people can have similar curl patterns, but the texture of the strands may dictate its resistance behavior and shrinkage behavior.

 This miniature "slinky" represents a "resistant" hair type.  When elongated, it naturally wants to spring back into its original condensed form.  This "resistant" hair behavior is excellent for locking because it likes to coil around everything in its path.  Extensions, braids, etc.   However, to straighten or relax this type of resistant hair, the relaxer has to work very hard to soften the bonds to rearrange them not to behave in its natural behavior.  Sometimes a mild strength relaxer is not strong enough to straighten a resistant hair type, but the toxic dangers to the scalp remain the same.  Alopecia and thickening of the scalp can results from prolonged relaxer exposure in an attempt to straighten resistant hair.

To test your resistance of your natural hair, just pull a strand of elongated hair from your head or comb and  drop it in a clear cup of water.  If there is no product or oils on it, then you should be able to see the hair strand do one of two things.   1) Either it will very slowly start to coil and shrink within a few minutes or 2) it will quickly coil and shrink at the "speed of light" like in two seconds.

If it is "speedy" then the hair is resistant.  If it is "slow" to coil, then it is non-resistant.  Non-resistant hair can grow long with the use of mild relaxers, but it may be harder to lock because of potential unravelling.

Now, resistant, coarse hair, is very difficult to grow long using relaxers.  Locks will grow it long, but relaxer and other straightening services will become a battle between style and health.  If a person with resistant hair can manage to style their hair for 8 to 10 weeks at a time in between relaxer touch-ups, then long length is possible.  However, most women with resistant, coarse hair can not get past their hairline becoming kinky within the five weeks period.

Decisions, Decisions.  Food for thought for those sitting on the fence about what to do next with your hair.

The Truth about Texturizing: Curl Reduction

Yes! This is a "Slinky" toy. It will represent a Type 3 curl pattern.
Yes! This is an ink pen. Focus on the Spring . . . it represents a Type 4 curl pattern.
Okay. Let's take a closer look at the small spring. Does it look familiar? This is just like Type 4 kinky/curly hair.
I pulled the "Slinky" out to give a realistic look at how big the diameter of a curl can be.
I am elongating/pulling the smaller curl pattern here. This elongation represents "texturizing and reducing the tightness of the curl pattern. As I pull, I am elongating the hair strand, and the hair pattern is going to either become a "ripple" or just straighten out. Please note that this little metal spring had a little resistance to pulling on it and I needed to put my inkpen back together to write with. Despite this technical difficulty, can you see that the smaller the diameter of the curl pattern, then the less beneficial texturizing becomes? If God did not give you a "Spanish wave" then you may have to braid/plait your relaxed hair while wet and let it dry to get a deep wave look!
Now, check out me pulling out the "Slinky." The bigger the diameter of the curl, then texturizing will successfully deliver more defined waves like a "Spanish wave." Can see the difference between the two "curl patterns?" Texturizing makes more sense for people with Type 3 curl patterns that want to tame frizziness and sport more waves than curls.