Achieve Wash and Go Hair by Relaxing

Final Results Picture

Hair by Benita Blocker

The Before Picture

Before the Fiberguard Affirm Mild relaxer, 22 minute process, the client had more resistant hair in the crown area.  She needed more control. I determined that a relaxer application was going to give her the long term control that she desired.  I was right!!!! She was very happy to achive "Wash and Go" hair by getting a virgin relaxer.

She can repeat this relaxer every 3 to 12 months.  Relaxers can be pefect for a natural look without a lot of effort.

Avlon's Texture Release Update

July 2015 Class - This type 3c Hair Model's Quadrants have been misted with the Texture Release Spray in picture above.  Type 1 or Type 2 curl patterns are not recommended as a good match for this procedure.

July 2015 class - all quadrants have been combed through and the model is ready for "deep conditioning" time.

If clients do not alternate between wash n' go and straight, then no, blow-drying nor ironing is needed for wash n' go hair.  That was the be biggest change in directions compared to the July 2014 class.  The class material still showed a lotion versus a spray for product application.  So no updated literature was available at this class.  The instructor did confirm that too much product/lotion was used on the model in the July 2014 class.  I wished they would have notified the students from the July 2014 class of the errors and  changes.  Without attending this class update a year later, I still would not have known that the platform artist was in error.  

But, on a separate note, I did not stay over for the finished look for this model only because the model's hair was NOT a resistant hair type.  I was really hoping for a model with type 4 - kinky curly hair, but I am willing to try the spray out again.

Wash Day Status: No Locs Lost

Believe it or not, my hair is dry in this picture.  I was trying to showcase my length without it being fully saturated in water.  There is no water in this straight loc look, but there is still some shrinkage. Oh well, it will have to do for now.

On a separate note, I have three locs in my problem area that I mentioned in a previous blog article that had thinned because the locs were too large to support the curl behavior and curl diameter of that area.  This is one of the first times that I realized how beneficial the small Sisterlocks that I had asked for originally would have been if my Sisterlocks were done in accordance with the Sisterlocks grid.

Before the wash - my loc styling still looked good right?  The Tropical Roots foam really holds my wet sets.  I love it!

 After my wash, I used the Mizani Supreme Oil Conditioner as a leave-in conditioner.  It is usually a rinse-out conditioner, but one of my natural clients started using it as a leave-in so I figured that I would try it too!  I had to work it into my locs, but it dried without a film.  I know that some people worry about "build-up" but I am ready to start treating my locs like natural loose hair.  This wash and go look is going to be my new "straight look" option.  I am also thinking about cornrowing my locs and getting crochet braids to give a new "non-dreadlock" look.  I am ready to have some more unrestricted fun!

Oh yeah, the one loc that I used the liquid beeswax on has been wonderful and well behaved.  I mentioned this in a previous article on this blog, but I will take an updated picture of that loc in another article coming soon.

And yes, all of my Sisterlocks are still holding on.  I believe that because the three thinner locs that I was worried about are surrounded by other locs that support them, they are going to be fine.  I am going to go into a hydration centered maintenance mode for about a month or so because I want to focus on health versus styling of my locs.

I plan to use my Bath and Body Works hair mist to keep this Mizani Conditioner activated in my locs.  I haven't lost any locs, and I hope that I do not, but I am keeping a close eye on the three locs in the back.  I also want to start about three more baby locs in that same area with the hair that pulled away.  By keeping that area hydrated, it will not fight me as I work to manipulate it into a new coils of hair.  Any new locs that I do get going will be two years and seven months behind the rest of my locs.  I will have to remember they were slow starts versus breakage.  I may or may not update on the progress of my problem area for months from now, but I will do my usual monthly check-in's for my hair as a whole.

Design Essentials Almond and Avocado Detangling Leave-In Conditioner

The Design Essentials Almond and Avocado Detangling Leave-In Conditioner smells good, and it is easy to apply to all hair types for wash and go hairstyling.

For a quick wash and go styling procedure, as soon as you finish your final water rinse, allow the client to remain reclined at the shampoo bowl and just generously apply this Detangling Leave-in Conditioner while the hair is soaking wet.  Massage it in and then let the client sit up. You will find that most of your work is all done.  Just check throughout the hair to see if there are any small areas that need more product applied.  Then you are free to allow the hair to air-dry.

This leave-in Conditioner is a lightweight lotion that delivers shine and movement for those with some length.  This product slows shrinkage, but it does not prevent resistant hair from curling up on the ends.

The Design Essentials Almond and Avocado Detangling Leave-in Conditioner is a favorite for children as well as the adults!

Unleashing Avlon's Texture Release!

 If you are ready to come out of the relaxer or the thio based body wave (Wave Nouveau, etc), then Avlon's Texture Release system may be perfect for you!

In my opinion, it is a "cousin" to the "Diva Smooth" process (separate blog article) and healthier than those keratin smoothing treatments.

It is a temporary curl elongation.  It is a hair filler that is heat activated and offers you wash n`go styling or just frizz-free straightness for up to about 10 weeks depending on the hair type.  My salon (Applebaum Salon) now offers this service.  The pictures in this article are from my training class.

 Avlon's Texture Release system is a Nano Technology. There is NO formaldehyde NOR any type of aldehyde deriative.  There are no fumes as you flat iron.  It has NOT been tested on children.  So this system like any other hair chemical is for those past puberty.

The two models have been shampooed and dried.  Their hair texture is VERY SOFT.  Their curl pattern is a Type 4, but they do NOT have resistant hair.

 Color correction or any color services should be done a week after this Texture Release service to avoid fading your color or removing the color.  The lotion should not be applied to the scalp but if the scalp comes in contact with the product then it is not life threatening.

 The blow dry service is what starts the activation of this system.  The client has to be blown dry first then they can be re-wet for a wash and go styling or "hot ironed" for straighter results.

 When re-wetting the blown dry hair, allow the curl memory to come back.  It may take a little longer to curl up, but it will start to wave in about five or 10 minutes.

There is a Curl, Shape and Shine Cream for "wash and go" styling which was used section by section to crunch this model for final styling.

The other longer haired model at the beginning of this article was flat ironed at 400 degrees with 2 to 3 passes of the flat iron.

I am really excited about this product. It is double the price of the relaxer service, but it qualifies as a healthier version of the smoothing treatments on the market.

I will try to post more feedback from my own clients as I get more people on the system.

2014 Hair Options for Working Out in the Gym

 Master Personal Trainer Nicole Chaplin mentioned two options for hair in her New Growth Hair magazine interview.  (May 2014 issue)  Those two options are 1) "Wash and go" styling or 2) (hair) extensions.

For those who do not have "wash and go" type of hair nor the budget for hair extensions, then I wanted to piggyback on Nicole Chaplin's suggestions.  A third option from my client feedback is the flat twists option.

I took these pictures from the Design Essential Natural Textures Styling Brochure.

Essentially, before any "intense workout," flat twist your relaxed hair. Two strand or Three strand twists both work fine.  As your hair gets wet from the workout, it wet sets the whole head.  Let it dry and then undo the twist set to achieve wavy hair.

My clients that participate in Bikram yoga, hot yoga, and other intense workouts have found the flat twists the best long-term styling option for active workouts.  The final wavy look can be twisted into an updo or a ponytail with a textured look.

In regards to Nicole Chaplin's extensions suggestion as a workout hair option, please remember that according to Chris Rock's Good Hair movie, some guys view hair extensions as high maintenance and limiting as far as riding in a convertible as well as participating in outdoor activities.  Therefore the flat twists may look a little masculine for workout purposes, but they deliver a very feminine finish.

A CurveBall: The Secret Was Not in the Juice!

photo credit from www.wn.com

Many people feel that the Jheri Curl "juice" was the secret to longer, fuller hair.  They felt that the moisture was the key.  Now, let's throw a curveball into that thought process:

Access to Air

1) As mentioned in my previous blog article, "access to air" promotes hair growth.  The "jheri curl" allowed plenty of access to air because the haircut was the style.  Ponytails were not necessary.  The "jheri curl" was "wash and go" styling.  Of course, curl activator and other leave-in moisturizers were necessary, but there were never any bad hair days.  Some may argue that the whole "Jheri curl" movement was a "bad era." Regardless, outside of the fact that some people started sleeping in plastic caps which denied air to the scalp, the "Jheri curl" was  hair freedom.

Less Tension/ Less Manipulation

2) Again, most "jheri curl" wearers did not put a lot of tension on the hair.  It had a wet finish.  So the shine and the style was built in without ponytail holders.

More Hydration

3) The daily moisturizing of the "Jheri curl" helped to prevent breakage from the double processing that the chemical service entails.  Remember the natural curl of the hair had to be "thio-relaxed" first then a looser curl had to be formed and neutralized into place.  The curl activators and moisturizers kept the damaged hair conditioned and masked.

Less Heat

4) No hot tools were necessary with the "Jheri curl."  Damaged or porous hair dries faster than healthier hair.  So the curl activators sealed the hydration in the hair.

As I searched on the Internet for extra long "Jheri curl" hair, I found mostly wigs, weaves, etc.  I also found a good amount of men with length on their "Jheri curl."  However, I could not find that many women who had exceptionally long, beautiful, and real "Jheri curls."  

Was it just our imagination that the soft curls and "Jheri curls" were helping our hair gain length?

I missed the "Jheri Curl" trend.  My mom did not like the "loc" styling nor the "Jheri curl" styling.  Oh well, I am grateful that my mom was consistent in her styling restrictions.

I only know of one person who got a beautiful s-wave pattern from the Wave Nouveau process.  Her hair grew extremely long and beautiful with the  Wave Nouveau.  She wears her natural hair now, and it is gorgeous without any chemicals.

So the secret was not in the "Jheri Juice" - it was probably in the "lower maintenance" care of the hair as well as the airflow to the scalp.

Review: Mill Creek 99% Aloe Vera Gel

 So just when I determined that the Trader Joe's brand of 99% pure aloe vera gel was the best.  I find out that Trader Joe's only carries their aloe vera gel seasonally.  So doing the winter months, you are out of luck.

So I made it to The Vitamin Shoppe store to find a 99% Aloe Vera Gel by Mill Creek Botanicals as pictured above.  I love this one just as well as the Trader Joe's version.

It is Fragrance Free, Paraben Free, Glycol Free, and pH Balanced.  In addition, the expiration dates are clearly marked on the packaging. The Vitamin Shoppe says that it carries this gel all year long.  Yes!

This aloe vera gel is great for "wash and go" hair styling regardless of race.

Achieving the Brazilian Wave Look

 Hair by Benita Blocker.  This client started with me in March 2012.  She has Type 3 hair.  She does "wash and go" styling at home with Mixed Chicks Leave-in products and some of Miss Jessie's Baby Buttercreme. When she came to me, she was using the "Knockoff" products from Sally's Beauty Supply.  I explained to her about the inferior ingredients in the "knockoffs" so she started investing in the real product brands.  She and I can definitely see a difference in her hair.  She comes in periodically for straightening (Her 7th visit with me). I straighten her hair with the marcel flat iron and stove, then I curl her hair with the  #60 marcel iron which delivers this Brazilian Wave Look.

 She does not have any hair extensions.  This is all of her natural hair.  No relaxers.  She had color treated hair when she came to me in March 2012.  The growing out of the color gives her an ombre effect to her hair.

The #60 marcel iron delivers the curls of the lavender magnetic roller set which gives the S-curl, natural wave look.

Wash n' go Regimen for Type 3 curl pattern!

This combination seems to work great for Type 3 curl pattern, but not enough hold for a Type 4 curl pattern. I tried this combination twice, and twice I shrink into an "afro" within a few hours. Reminder: I have type 4 curl pattern. Actually, the difference between the regimens for Type 3 and Type 4 curl patterns is the last product used.

In detail, the regimen goes like this: 1) KeraCare Cleansing Cream: shampoo between 1 and 3 times as needed. 2) Towel blot. Skip the deep conditioning step if your hair is healthy and not too porous. Deep conditioning sometimes makes the hair strands too soft. 3) Use the Mixed Chicks Leave-in Conditioner to give you volume and shape. 4) Miss Jessie's Quick Curls helps give added control. The "Quick Curls" do not seem to hold Type 4 hair, but does great on Type 3!

Some folks may find the KeraCare cleansing cream and the Mixed Chicks Leave-in Conditioner to be sufficient as well. Two products instead of three . . .

These articles are designed to help you eliminate some trial and error! Have fun being natural!

Making Texturized Type 4c hair Wash n' Go!

Hair by Benita Blocker. This is a picture of Type 4c curl pattern that is "texlaxed" or texturized. The "Wash n Go" terminology is typical for Type 3 hair, but it usually means an "afro" for Type 4 hair. On the other hand, texturizing type 4 hair using a mild relaxer or a permanent haircolor reduces the curl pattern and softens the hair. This softening can cause the hair strands to go limp if the curl product is too oily or too heavy. So after a little trial and error, I discovered a "wash n go" regimen that seems to be light, curl defining, and prevents shrinkage (i.e. holds the style). Also, it is simple enough to repeat every morning! Yay!!!!
The regimen: 1) Start off with KeraCare Cleansing Cream. Shampoo with this between 1 and 3 times depending on how "soiled" your hair is. 2) Towel blot; skip deep conditioning because it will make the hair strands too soft. 3)Add Mixed Chicks Leave-in Conditioner. Use moderately. Too much may cause crystallization with the next product. However, you need this leave-in conditioner for volume purposes. 4) Work the KeraCare Defining Custard through the hair. This product consistency is like "egg whites" but not sticky. 5) Style and diffuse or style and air dry.

Voila! Three products and about 15 minutes max!

NOTE: The hair should be cut or shaped to support a wash n go style. Also, texturize the new growth as needed. If you are wetting the hair everyday, you will not need to texturize as often. Also, I tried the KeraCare Natural Textures Leave-in Conditioner. It worked fine, but it has propylene glycol in it. The Mixed Chicks Leave-in conditioner is healthier for the hair because of the glycerin in it. Please see my other articles on propylene glycol and other potential cancer causing ingredients.

Going natural is a great summer experiment!!!! Enjoy!