Achieving Gray coverage on Resistant White Hair

I learned a new way of getting excellent gray coverage in less time during my last Chi Hair color class for curl patterns Type 1 to Type 3. (Not for relaxed, Type 4 curl patterns.)

Most colorists already know that a "N" on the color tube stands for "neutral," and that it is necessary for gray coverage. So this information is not new. Thinking about how the neutral series relates to color theory may or may not be new, but let's review anyway!

So the "neutrals" contain all three primary colors: red, yellow, and blue. White hair is missing all of these colors and therefore, the white hair must be filled. In addition, all three primary colors cancel out each other netting a darker color.

On resistant white hair, even after using the "neutral" color, I found that I was not getting great coverage. It seemed to fill the white strands but not cover it so I would have to finish the color service with a low-level demi-permanent color. So it was a two step process for resistant gray hair.

Then in the Chi Color class, the instructor mentioned adding an additional "warm" color to balance out the "coolness" of the White or Gray hair. So if you combine the level N plus a level "G" for gold, then "Voila" great coverage of resistant hair in ONE step! (i.e. less time!)

Reds or golds should both work depending on if your client is going for blonde or redhead. "Black hair color" typically would not need any secondary help for gray coverage.

Even my non-resistant gray clients can tell when I add an extra "gold" to the color formula. It gives a little lighter results, but great gray coverage. Many clients like lighter haircolor to soften the gray as the new growth starts to come in.

On a separate note, I have found that the "rinse water" from a color service seems to cause damage to hair extensions. The protective coating on the hair extensions can be broken down by products with alcohol as well as water with chemical residue in it. When I speak of "damage" to the hair extensions, it means causing it to tangle especially if longer lengths are being worn.

In addition, clients with relaxed, type 4c curl patterns should not use permanent color nor demi-permanent color. Use "No mix" colors only. I recently pre-mixed three semi-permanent color together and acheived a nice brown color that seems to absorb into the gray hair without any peroxide worries. Please stay tuned for another article for gray coverage on relaxed, type 4 hair. If you are a type 4 curl pattern without a relaxer, then permanent color and demi-permanent color is safe to use.

A Closer Look at Texturized, Gray Type 4c hair

Gray hair is hair that grows in without natural pigment or melanin in it. Because it is missing pigment, the gray hair is lighter in weight and less manageable. It can be permed (curly permed/soft curled) or relaxed, texlaxed/texturized. Pictured is coarse, gray hair that started off as natural Type 4c hair from a woman with black hair and some gray hair. (Less than 25% gray) It is now texturized or texlaxed. So it went from extremely tightly coiled "z" curls to a "z" ripple!
Type 4c curl patterns do not have to be coarse. Type 4c curl patterns can be fine or medium in texture/strand diameter.
Gray hair does not have to be coarse to still be difficult to manage and hard to color. In order to keep gray hair shiny and "non-yellow," voilet base shampoos or conditioners have to be used as needed. Typically, chemicals and heat can cause gray/white hair to yellow. According to the color wheel, if you add some blue and red (i.e. violet), then it neutralizes the yellow color.

Demi-permanent haircolor and Relaxers Revisited

First of all, let's revisit formal haircolor terminology. A rinse is usually a leave-in lotion or foam designed to last one shampoo. Please see my article on Fanci-full brand for more information on rinses.

A true Semi-permanent haircolor is a no mix, direct dye usually applied from a squeeze bottle. Semi-permanents are great for fashion colors but usually do not cover resistant gray/white hair.

Demi-permanent haircolor is a haircolor that comes in two parts that you have to mix. The activating lotion usually contains some peroxide which is similar to permanent color. Usually, the peroxide level is too low to be considered permanent color; however, the haircolor usually holds like permanent color. Demi- permanent color such as Goldwell Colorance line has two activating lotion strengths. One is Intensive and should be treated like permanent color. The other is mild and can be used on the same day as a relaxers under CERTAIN conditions. Only clients fighting resistant gray will be your ideal customer for this on the same day as a relaxer. All others - I suggest only true semi-permanent one step haircolor if they just received a relaxer.

The picture above is from the box of an Organic Root Stimulant relaxer discussing the "do's and don'ts of hair relaxing." They do not recommend the demi-permanent haircolor be performed on the same day as a normal strength relaxer. I have written a separate article about haircolor and relaxing on the same day. I do not recommend anyone who has Type 4 curl pattern to use demi-permanent color and relaxer on the same day. The Fiberguard Affirm relaxer is probably the only exception. The Fiberguard brand has an extra strengthening complex in it. I have written a separate article on Fiberguard relaxers for color- treated hair.

If you have resistant gray and a tight curl pattern - plan for haircolor on a separate day from the relaxer and two weeks a part. It will cost you more financially, but it is better not to gamble with hair loss!