The Godefroy brand pictured says it lasts six weeks. The color options are jet black, light brown, medium brown, and dark brown. This eyebrow color should NOT be used for your eyelashes. I assume it can cause blindness especially since the word "permanent" is listed on the box.
Maintaining phenomenal hair through education on techniques, tools, and products!
Phenomenal . . .
![Phenomenal . . .](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFiC9z_28AdXvI6HV7QMu8jvuuIul_yVGVbzUvaBSRFRqJvD9mOEwIa0QpSEnNyMw2YKGkkowjp7p5OMQhyfFwe432FGAYcssgvEfWfWG6U4Xm6nEVONaP6NWBfqPCwU74lyGgGwkcDTAj/s742/IMG00452-20100717-1551.jpg)
Life, Growth, and Connection (This sunflower was nourished by my hands.) 2010; Photography by Benita Blocker. Please become a follower of this blog.
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Sunday, July 31, 2011
Coloring Eyebrows
The Godefroy brand pictured says it lasts six weeks. The color options are jet black, light brown, medium brown, and dark brown. This eyebrow color should NOT be used for your eyelashes. I assume it can cause blindness especially since the word "permanent" is listed on the box.
Product Line Review: Ouidad
Based on the back of my head, my curl definition is about the same as the other products. It is not too heavy nor too oily. I will have to see how day 2 through day 5 goes. I am happy that I got to try it without buying the whole line. It is another expensive curl line, but the six piece combination that I used, I really liked. Reminder: My type 4c hair is texturized/texlaxed.
UPDATE: By the end of Day one my "Ouidad" hair had started to shrink too tightly. I also felt that it was a little dry to the touch. My usual maintenance of Mixed Chicks Leave-in did not want to co-exist as an attempt to moisturize. It just got real sticky on my hair. Needless to say, Day 2 was a fresh wash with my KeraCare Cleansing Cream, Kinky-Curly Knot Today leave-in, and KeraCare Defining Custard.
Thursday, July 28, 2011
Review: Electric Curling Iron Barrels
Pictured is a Wigo "marcel closure" curling iron. It also has adjustable temperature settings. The marcel handling/turning takes a little practice but once you have it, then curling is quick and easy!
Product Review: Chi Deep Brilliance Relaxer
Pictured is the "after" picture of Chi relaxer touchup. Client has Type 4c hair and the Normal strength Chi relaxer was used to texturize or texlax hair. Finishing products included Kinky-Curly Knot Today Leave-in followed by KeraCare Defining Custard. Hair by Benita Blocker.
August 16,2011 Update: I have used the Chi Deep Brilliance Relaxer about four times now. The hair integrity is good even with the Super strength. However, the Super Strength Chi Deep Brilliance relaxer can be very drying to the hair. I found that the Chi Reconstruct conditioner that is recommended with the relaxer service does not provide enough moisture to the hair. I found the Mizani Moistufuse conditioner which is recommended for the Mizani traditional relaxer system works significantly better. Under normal conditions and normal strength relaxation, the Chi Reconstruct was sufficient. However, I still recommend layering the Mizani Moistufuse in with the Chi Reconstruct under normal relaxation. I also recommend substituting the Mizani Moistufuse in lieu of the Chi Reconstruct. The hair seems to drink the Moistufuse immediately after Super relaxation and shampooing. Please note: Mizani has a "Butter Blend line" and a "Moisturfusion" line. I am NOT referring to these Mizani categories at this time.
A note to the sensitive scalp consumers: The Chi Deep Brilliance relaxer is tolerable with a well-based scalp. "Well-based" scalp means that base is applied with thin partings but keep the base on the scalp not the hair. Cross section your base if you have to but do NOT squeeze too much out at a time. The "bad news" is that the combination of resistant hair and a sensitive scalp may not process long enough to get straight before burning. This relaxer will burn. You feel the burns more from the water hitting the scalp during the rinse than the dry application. So if the client feels burning, but they say it is tolerable, then I recommend taking them to the shampoo bowl and start rinsing anyway.
For some reason the burning does seem tolerable during relaxer application, but the water rinse will tell the real story as to how badly the burn is. The Paul Mitchell relaxer system causes more "false" sensations during the relaxer application, but not too much burning at the bowl. However, my Chi relaxer experience was the completely opposite. I felt less pain at relaxer application; more "pain" at the bowl. Overall, I recommend caution with the Super Strength Chi Relaxer. The tensile strength is fine, but watch for dryness. Prepare to add a lot of "moisture" during the conditioning phase.
Sunday, July 24, 2011
Technique Review: How to Wet Wrap
Do anchor and curve the center of the head as you comb around. You want to keep the center flat. You may want to comb all hair down into a mushroom first, then begin to comb/wrap around leaving the top of your mushroom flat.
Side view of wet wrap.
Side view of wet wrap.
Front view of wet wrap.
These paper "megastrips" can be purchased from Sally's Beauty Supply.
Wet wrap is now completely dry. The paper wrap strips can be removed after the first 30 to 40 minutes. Usually, they will loosen on their own and fall away if you forget about them.
Breaking the mold to make sure it dries completely. You can use a wax, pomade, or a silicone serum to soften and loosen up the hair depending on if you used the styling gel or not.
Back view curled. I used Design Essentials Styling spray to curl with. I was going for a pretty firm hold without being hard.
Side view curled. Hair by Benita Blocker
Product Review: Kinky-Curly Knot Today and more
A Closer Look at Texturized, Gray Type 4c hair
Friday, July 22, 2011
Diffusers: Set your Style!
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
Choosing Healthy Hair over European Style
So of course, I have been struggling with conforming with what is more easily acceptable or choosing a low maintenance look that yells "culture."
By wearing my hair in a more natural looking state, I don't have any extra weight from hair extensions stressing out my scalp. I don't have to worry about it frizzing from humidity. I don't have to worry about sweating out my curls. I don't have to worry about a rainy day. I don't have to worry about the wind blowing it out of place. It can just grow, grow, grow.
Or I can choose to style it in the more socially acceptable way . . .
If I had a million dollar photo shoot, then I do prefer the European look. If had a million dollar presentation to give, then I do prefer the European look.
However, for day to day operations, I am going with a healthy low key routine until I grow it long again. I will continue to texturize as needed and then eventually fully relax it.
So I am choosing health over style for now. In the long run, healthy hair always has style. Patience is a virtue. Within another year, I will have an extra six inches to play with. I am looking forward to the future!
The Natural Look: Day 2 is a Charm
It's humorous because those with oily scalps love first day hair but by Day 2 the hair starts going flat from the natural oils from the scalp. Luckily, product lines such as Rene Furterer have dry shampoos that do wonders for creating volume in Day 2 old hair with oily scalps.
Monday, July 18, 2011
Product Review: Design Essentials Curl Cleanser and more
As for the curl stretching cream, it is a little heavy. Extremely porous hair is going to soak it up like a sponge. I discovered this with a client who had permanently colored her Type 4b/c hair. We blowdried the hair according to the Design Essentials natural styling guide, then we used the Design Essentials Curl Stretching Cream to make individual twists. Her hair absorbed soooo much product that it was very hard to get it dry. Two hours under the dryer would probably be generous. The oil that her hair soaked up was enough for a solid week without worrying about drying out.
I have noticed quite a few products seem to soak into Type 4 hair and create a wet sponge effect if the Type 4 hair is damaged or extremely porous.
Honestly, when Type 4 hair becomes that damaged, plan to gradually cut it off. I will be very difficult to manage and easy to frizz. Repeated excessive thermal/heat can cause damage, and sometimes permanent color can cause this damage as well.
So be careful . . . when hair is "overcooked" - you eventually have to start over.
Sunday, July 17, 2011
Product Review: Salon Exclusive relaxer brand
I mentioned my concerns to the distributor whom I was buying the product from and his response was "if you like it, then buy it; if you do not like it, then don't buy it." It was at that point that I discontinued use. I finally realized that manufacturers and distributors are there to meet sales quota. Until their sales drop, some have no intention of improving the product.
This company is very aggressive in adding new products to their line to profit from the latest trends such as the Argan oil demand. I believe this brand is also sold as the "Action South" relaxer line in other parts of the region.
The brand name "Salon Exclusive" is hard to research because many different relaxer lines consider themselves "salon exclusive" meaning salon professional use only. So to have a brand name of "Salon Exclusive" can be a little confusing even if making a phone inquiry to someone who is not aware of the actual brand existence.
I only recommend this relaxer system for those who want to maintain a short haircut or who promises to only roller set their hair. Blow-dry styling may be too much stress on really straight hair. It may be safer to use mild strength in this relaxer line and let it sit for a few extra minutes.
Those with sensitive scalps will be sensitive to the regular strength lye version. However, their no-lye version is very tolerable. As with all chemicals, choose with caution.
Saturday, July 16, 2011
Tracking: Keeping Hair Styling Records
Pictured is the start of my hair log from October 19, 1998 to present day. I literally know about 13 years of history on my hair. I started tracking in October 1998 after having so many horrible hair salon experiences. I have been to Manhattan New York to Brooklyn, NY to White Plains, NY to North Carolina to South Carolina and still could not find a good fit for a hairdresser. Does this story sound familiar?
So keep track of stylist name, date of service, actual services provided, and any chemicals used. The only purpose it will serve is a sanity check and some tracking of changes you find.
Please understand that I do not recommend salon hopping. You lose liability of who did what. All hairstylists have the same licensing respective to the state that the license was issued. Hairstylists are like doctors. Their practice is their practice. Doctors sometimes have different approaches to helping to heal. Within three months or about six visits, your hair should be more solid even if you are trimming bad ends off regularly.
Professional hairstylists learn to respect another hairstylist's practice because the variables surrounding a hair service are only witnessed during the time of service. Over the years, I have learned to turn down clients and send them back to their stylist because expecting perfection in one visit sometimes is a tall order especially when it comes to chemicals.
If a hairstylist is more concerned with the health of the hair, they may require a treatment service before performing a multi-dimensional color service. Yes, it will cost you two visits to get the color service and then you still may need a third service to lift your haircolor to an additional dimension. So if you have dark hair and want to go blonde, one visit usually is not the healthiest way of doing it.
When it comes to relaxers, it may take a few tries to find a good fit unless you are relocating from another city and want to continue with your same regimen and same product brands that were working for you from whence you came.
Also, I have found that over the last few years, I look for hairstylists with my same hair type (Type 4). To my surprise, I have found that most hairdressers have type 3 hair so their hair is lower maintenance than mine. I usually rule out male hairdressers because they usually keep a low maintenance haircut.
These are my preferences based on my experiences. Many have given up on hairdressers . . . I am a hairstylist, and I have sometimes felt the same sentiment. However, I am determined to educate myself and share my findings so that others do not have to repeat the same mistakes. I am committed to the advancement of the hair industry globally.
I have to remind myself regularly that "the only thing constant" is change. Stay flexible but grounded . . .
Friday, July 15, 2011
Cutting out the Middle Man: The Hairstylist!
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This picture is from www.longerstrongerhair.blogspot.com. Being a hairstylist and also, being a woman with hair that has to be styled . . . I see both sides of the story. The economy, gasoline prices, housing losses, retirement losses and so on forces creative thinking in order to cut expenses.
When it comes to hair, you have products to buy and a hairstylist to maintain. You already figured out that you can not eliminate the products. If you have gray hair, then you may find haircolor necessary. Shampoo and Conditioner are also necessities. Styling aids are helpful to maintain a corporate professional look.
So the product manufacturers will not lose too much money. The beauty supply stores should be prospering.
Now, let's visit the concept of natural hair . . . the products to maintain the hair cost more than the regular shampoo and conditioner for relaxed hair. For example: You may spend about $50 per month buying quality natural haircare products and maintaining your natural tresses at home.
On the other hand, you were paying at least $100 per month to go to the salon to have your relaxed hair set/serviced.
If you figure out a low maintenance regimen at home then it will beat the time spent in the salon. Also, with the cost of living being so high - most professional stylists who are on track to retire in the profession are going to expect to make at least $40 per maintenance service.
So in a nutshell, people are looking for ways to cut down on costs. If you are an exceptional haircare professional, then you are a "cutback." Your regular clients will come see you when they need you. If you are just an average hairdresser . . . you may find yourself "cut out" unless you keep your prices really low. "The dollar menu" will always draw customers.
What inspired me to write this article was the upfront cost of the natural haircare lines. Expect to spend $60 to $80 to get started in maintaining your natural hair and you have to use the products almost daily. Whereas with relaxed hair, most people did not like paying more than $8 to $10 for any product. I suppose the expense of the salon service was a factor in overall cost.
Good luck in finding your balance. With kinky hair being worn all over the world right now, it is the best time to try to get away from the European standard straight hair. Please also remember that certain corporate professional environments still prefer the European straight look. Be your own judge.
Thursday, July 14, 2011
July 2011 Hair Trend Update
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1) Hairdrenalin Potion - it has become an international trend! This potion is supposed to grow your hair at a rate of one inch per month. That is double the normal growth rate. People can order the potion or make it themselves based on the online recipe. Some people are adding extra essential oils to mask the "original" smell of the potion. I am wary of anything that accelerate growth like that. There are youtube videos showing people achieving longer lengths at exceptional growth rates. You are welcome to research more about it, but I am going to wait another year to re-visit this potion. There has to be a side affect.
2)Genie Locs are yarn braids. The recommended brand of yarn is Redheart acrylic yarn. The yarn looks like ethnic hair. It gives you an overall "lock" look. The yarn runs about $5, and an online tutorial explains how to perform the "yarn twists" services at home. Enjoy researching!
3)Feather extensions - I have been getting one phone call a week at my salon from teenagers calling to see if we offer the Feather hair extensions. It seems to be a youthful trend. They are extensions that are pre-tipped for infusion and contain a feather. Maximum amount of feather extensions to sport seem to be about five at a time.
Well, that's all for now! Again, Enjoy!!!
Wash n' go Regimen for Type 3 curl pattern!
In detail, the regimen goes like this: 1) KeraCare Cleansing Cream: shampoo between 1 and 3 times as needed. 2) Towel blot. Skip the deep conditioning step if your hair is healthy and not too porous. Deep conditioning sometimes makes the hair strands too soft. 3) Use the Mixed Chicks Leave-in Conditioner to give you volume and shape. 4) Miss Jessie's Quick Curls helps give added control. The "Quick Curls" do not seem to hold Type 4 hair, but does great on Type 3!
Some folks may find the KeraCare cleansing cream and the Mixed Chicks Leave-in Conditioner to be sufficient as well. Two products instead of three . . .
These articles are designed to help you eliminate some trial and error! Have fun being natural!
Making Texturized Type 4c hair Wash n' Go!
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Hair by Benita Blocker. This is a picture of Type 4c curl pattern that is "texlaxed" or texturized. The "Wash n Go" terminology is typical for Type 3 hair, but it usually means an "afro" for Type 4 hair. On the other hand, texturizing type 4 hair using a mild relaxer or a permanent haircolor reduces the curl pattern and softens the hair. This softening can cause the hair strands to go limp if the curl product is too oily or too heavy. So after a little trial and error, I discovered a "wash n go" regimen that seems to be light, curl defining, and prevents shrinkage (i.e. holds the style). Also, it is simple enough to repeat every morning! Yay!!!!
Voila! Three products and about 15 minutes max!
NOTE: The hair should be cut or shaped to support a wash n go style. Also, texturize the new growth as needed. If you are wetting the hair everyday, you will not need to texturize as often. Also, I tried the KeraCare Natural Textures Leave-in Conditioner. It worked fine, but it has propylene glycol in it. The Mixed Chicks Leave-in conditioner is healthier for the hair because of the glycerin in it. Please see my other articles on propylene glycol and other potential cancer causing ingredients.
Going natural is a great summer experiment!!!! Enjoy!
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Tired of Starting over! Six Months Flat Iron Free!
The problem with starting over is no one ever tells you why after all of the products and due diligence that you do to take care of your hair . . . your "nappy hair" just keeps getting damaged. Enough is enough!
Guess what? Sensitive scalp relaxers (yeah the ones that you have to mix; they come in two parts) are more damaging than regular lye relaxers. Do your research! Research DEEP! It is true! Unfortunately, those with sensitive scalps can not bare lye relaxers without burning too soon. So the number of "non-burning" lye relaxers (conditioning lye relaxers) are few and far between. So far - I have only found Paul Mitchell, Design Essentials' Time Release Regular and possibly NuExpressions Gold VS. (I am still researching the NuExpressions relaxer).
So I eliminated sensitive scalp (i.e. no lye) relaxers about two years ago . . . so scalp improvement and thinning were eliminated. Manufacturers will still try to sell those box relaxers to you. Just like cigarettes and alcohol . . . use at your own risk! They need to make their money!
However, after elininating the scalp issues; I still found my hair strands to be so tempermental. So something else had to be causing me problems. So after eliminating every other possibility; I discovered that the culprit was none other than the flat iron . . . Whether you spend $350 or $100 on a brand name flat iron . . . they are absolutely damaging long-term. So now, I am flat iron free six months. I texturize/texlax about every six weeks. I am the happiest I have been ever! See my picture! Yay!!!! It may not mean a lot to those born with carefree hair . . . but for those sistahs whose natural texture is far from being European, six months past starting over again, this is a great picture of a bright future!
Full steam ahead!!!!
Demi-permanent haircolor and Relaxers Revisited
A true Semi-permanent haircolor is a no mix, direct dye usually applied from a squeeze bottle. Semi-permanents are great for fashion colors but usually do not cover resistant gray/white hair.
Demi-permanent haircolor is a haircolor that comes in two parts that you have to mix. The activating lotion usually contains some peroxide which is similar to permanent color. Usually, the peroxide level is too low to be considered permanent color; however, the haircolor usually holds like permanent color. Demi- permanent color such as Goldwell Colorance line has two activating lotion strengths. One is Intensive and should be treated like permanent color. The other is mild and can be used on the same day as a relaxers under CERTAIN conditions. Only clients fighting resistant gray will be your ideal customer for this on the same day as a relaxer. All others - I suggest only true semi-permanent one step haircolor if they just received a relaxer.
The picture above is from the box of an Organic Root Stimulant relaxer discussing the "do's and don'ts of hair relaxing." They do not recommend the demi-permanent haircolor be performed on the same day as a normal strength relaxer. I have written a separate article about haircolor and relaxing on the same day. I do not recommend anyone who has Type 4 curl pattern to use demi-permanent color and relaxer on the same day. The Fiberguard Affirm relaxer is probably the only exception. The Fiberguard brand has an extra strengthening complex in it. I have written a separate article on Fiberguard relaxers for color- treated hair.
If you have resistant gray and a tight curl pattern - plan for haircolor on a separate day from the relaxer and two weeks a part. It will cost you more financially, but it is better not to gamble with hair loss!
Monday, July 4, 2011
Curl Pattern Review: Which curl pattern are you?
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Spring Roll/Curly? Many people with this wave pattern have Spanish/South American heritage. Type 2 curl pattern. It is more wavy than curly. Picture is from my.opera.com
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Finger size/Curly? Many people with this curl pattern are Cuban, Dominican, and other cultures where hair is occasionally relaxed for control. Type 3c hair. The model attached looks to have two textures. Finger size curls in the front and pencil size curls in the back/nape area. Picture is from www.ebenenaturals.com
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Type 4b hair; stay tuned for even more tightly coiled tresses!
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Wavy Hair Review: Body wave/S-shaped? Many people with this wave pattern come from India. Picture is from www.acannthus.blogspot.com
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Deep wave/Rippled? Many people with this wave pattern have Native American Indian backgrounds.
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